coloradosubarules

It's a FL car....always has been. My 90 is a snow car and gave me no problem. I tried hamering the CV axle out of the hub but still nothing! That sucker is in there!!! (turned wheel full lock)

I am doing an axle swap on a 96 legacy wagon and It is fighting me every step of the way. I got the pin out and the axle nut off easily but the tie rod fought me, and the ball joint is still fighting me. I took the bolt out that holds the ball joint to the spindle and jacked up the rotor and tried like hell to pry the control arm off it but it only budged about 1/4 inch. Anyone have any ideas? I replaced the 2 axles in my 90 in less time than it took me less time than it is taking me to get this one out. What gives?? Tips and tricks are greatly appreciated.

Theres more crack(s) on my windshield than in Kirstie Alley's pants. My car is also 15 years onld it spent most it's time in CO.

As most of you know I hosted the meet and greet on the 15th of January. The attendance was poor due to the weather and poor circumstances with some of the USMB member. I would like to thank Erik and Mike for coming out and bringing their Roos. I would like to try and do this again but this time get a larger crowd. We would meet at the Twistee Treat ice cream stand on Goldenrod Rd in Winter park, FL (Orlando) I was thinking the 19th (saturday) or the 20th (sunday) bit I would like to know from the people who would like to attend, which day would be better for you. I am open to suggestions so feel free to hit the "reply" button.

You might want to just let the car warm-up for a little bit so that the fluid can warm up. After it has reached a good temp you might want to shut the car off for a minute and then restart and try shifting. Perhaps it doesn't like the cold. Maybe a block heater might be in your best interest.

If you find some please send me a set for my 90 legacy. I think our exhaust manifolds are pretty much headers....I believe.

I used that stuff at 232K and it was gone in no time. I never saw oil leave my engine so quick. I stick with the non-synth stuff now. This goes for you too...PHAEDRAS!!! Watch your level brother!

I hate to sound like a broken record but did you BURP the system?????

I would go with 6.5 coaxials in the back and some components in the front. That is 6.4 in the door with crossover and tweeter mounted either on the pilar or (my personal trick) behind the rearview mirror. It bounces off the glass and isn't so "directional" if you know what I mean. I have done this trick for many high dolar installs and haven't had one complaint. Hell...I even did it on Cecil Fielder's sons car. Someone needs to teach that boy to drive. His dad bought him 19 inch Racing Hart rims and he cracked one in less than a week. Spoiled brat.

Where might I find this hose? What does it look like? General area of hose? THanks guys.

It seems like everytime I let my car sit for a few hours it has a hard time starting. It used to fire on the first crank but now it takes about 3 or more trys to get it to go. When the car is finally running it idles fine and seems to run ok. What gives? For a while when I would start the car the idle would drop down to the point where I thought it would stall but it would come back up and idle fine. Josh said I should spray brake cleaner into some hose but I never got the chance. Any suggestions would be great. It scares me to think that the Roo might leave me stranded somewhere.

Try the fuse untill you can get your fluid replaced. This way you don't damage your tranny anymore.

I've had my 90 legacy wagon on some pretty steep, rocky hills out in Colorado and just watched as my cousins 99 4X4 Durrango just spun it's tires. He made me sware to never tell a sould but I just couldn't do....Sorry Mike.

I would replace my loil pump when I have oil pressure issues. So far, so good.

It kinda does sound like the cat. Perhaps when it gets hot it swells therefore not letting axhaust flow properly. If this happens at night get out and look at the ground under the car. It should look like your car has neon tubs under it because your car it glowing red because it is soooo hot. J/k If and when this happens you might want to pop into an exhaust shop and have them do a thermo test. They use the laser thermometer to take the cats temp. If it is out of range for your vehicle then they know what the problem is. I had that test done on my RV and turns out that the cat was the problem. It's a good place to start. I knew mine was clogged because my car was running like crap and my wife's feet were getting very, very hot.

I have a 90 legacy 90-94 are mostly alike. EJ22 2.2 4cyl engines. I know of only one cam sensor and it is mounted on the drivers side timing cover. It is on the rear of the timing belt cover. If you were to pull the timing cover off you would see it attached to the other hal of the timning cover. It looks like a watch battery from the front. Shouldn't be too hard to replace. Do a search on the board for "legacy trouble codes." Also look up legacy777 (josh) and see his website (link at bottom of one of his posts) there you will find the codes as well. ( I think)

Owning a 90 legacy wagon I have asked the same question. The answer has always been..."you are better off buying an older roo that can be lifted for a muuuuuuuch lower price." I know there are some companies over seas that make them but figure the price and then shipping all that metal overseas....$$$$$$$$$$ Like you wanted to hear this.

Might be time for a new CD player. Sometimes electronics are sensitve to the elements. Maybe you should consider a marine car stero. J/k. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

There you go. Get you a red light and slap it to the bumper of your car. Maybe you could put a few super bright LED's behind the 3rd brake light lens and wire it to a switch on your dash. Thats what I would do. This way you do not have any hidious lights attached to your vehicle. Choice is yours.

I could have sworn I saw a post where someone asked the same question and a few people answered that it could not be done. Can it be done on all suabrus?????

Get the front end up in the air a tad. Remove the rad cap and bleed screw on the passengers side of the radiator (on top). Start the car, fill the radiator and let it run. The t-stat will open therefore allowing the coolant level to drop. Add more coolant untill fluid is coming out of the bleeder hole. install rad cap and bleed screw. Drive on. Your cooling system is bleed.

Pull the entire drivetrain from the WRX STi and drop it in your car. I'm sure there are cheaper ways....

I am pretty sure that you can not turn a FWD into an AWD. You might want to give legacy777 a holler. He would be the one to know. Maybe when you are done with your swap, you could lend me a hand shoehorning the WRX STi drivetrain and exhaust into my 90 legacy wagon.

I believe it is in front of the battery. I could be wrong though.

We should have the next meeting on the top level of the parking garage at the fashion suare mall on 50 in Orlando. That should yield some nic pics.