zzzasy

Thanks for the replies. I believe I have to remove the assembly as Shawn said. There is no access through the access panel. I did notice the screws that you mentioned. I feel confident that its no problem now. thanks, zzzasy 2007 Outback, retired my 1996.

How do you access the brake light bulbs in the rear of a 2007 Outback? thanks, zzzasy

hi all, I'm thinking of replacing my '98 outback with a 07 or 08 model. Is there anything I should be looking out for; like the head gasket issue with the '98 I was not aware of. Thanks, zzzasy

Having problems with my 98 OBW with a '97 engine. I have codes P0302, P0301, and P0400. While researching this, I noticed a procedure that said check the EGR valve by pushing the button. Mine is frozen; so I'm going to buy a new valve. My question is should I buy just the EGR valve or should I buy the solenoid also and maybe the BPT?

Will do! I will start checking the connectors, volts and resistance later this week. thanks, zzzasy

Hi all, I have a P0183 code which is a Fuel Temp Sensor failure. I talked to subaru parts and they said that you cannot buy the sensor; you have to replace the entire fuel pump assembly. Has anyone dealt with this problem? I found a denso assembly for $195 compared to the OE assembly which would cost me around $300. Would you do the Denso or spend the extra bucks for the OE? Also, do anyone know whether the 2.2L assemblies are the same as the 2.5L? thanks in advance zzzasy '98 Legacy Outback limited

Thank you, hopefully, I'll get a chance to do the thermo trick this weekend. If that works, does that mean that the thermo was bad? zzzasy '98 OBW

The water pump is 2 years old at the most and for about 5 months of those years the car sat without being driven or moved because of burnt cats. I believe I only paid like $30+ dollars for the pump so changing it again is not a costly venture; its just I have to do it outside in front of the house and the weather is getting to the point where that's not looking good. Since I am throwing money at the problem, which way would you throw it (BG Rad Flush or new water pump). I have been talking to a guy about the BG Rad Flush thinking the problem is clogged passages and that the pressure flush may do some good. zzzasy '98 OBW

I replaced my sensor. I believe I paid like $24 for it. The installation is very simple. It sits right up front on the drivers side near the end of the timing belt cover. Remove the two bolts, pull it out, drop the new one and replace the two bolts. That much money is a real rip off. I replaced my sensor, but that wasn't the real problem. The real problem was my belt had jump off of the proper timing. Reset my cam markings and everything was good to go. zzzasy '98 OBW

I thought if the water pump went, you would see water running from the weep hole. According to your post, the pump can be bad without any sign of running water. I will do the thermo trick at my first opportunity to see what happens. thanks, zzzasy '98 OBW

Yes, I turned the heater on and added coolant, then burped thru the upper hose. The coolant doesn't appear to be flowing throughout the engine. After driving for awhile, all the coolant ends up in the overflow reservoir. I can feel the top hose and it will be hot; while the lower hose would be cold. I have started adding antifreeze everytime I get in the car to try to keep it from overheating and causing a major problem. I had a compression test done, in which I was told everything was within specs, so he doesn't believe its a headgasket. I hate to keep throwing money at this engine if in the end I'm going to need a new engine anyway. Also, if I did purchase the recommended reman from Colorado, could I expect to get at least 3 years out of the engine without these kinds of problems? I have had the car three years and every year its the same old sh--. I like the car and would be willing to invest the $3500 to have a new engine installed, if I knew it would be good for at least three years. But, with my experience with this car, I don't know if I can expect that. Especially, when the newer cars are failing at around 60,000 miles. The engine in the car now is a used engine I had to buy on the highway because I cracked a block on the other during my X-mas vacation. The engine has been in the car almost a year. zzzasy '98 OBW zzzasy '98 OBW

Replaced the radiator. Still have the same problem. As a matter of fact, its getting worse. So, I have changed the radiator and thermo. I added a lot of stop leak to system in the past (now I have been educated on Stop Leak, but I believe its a little too late), so I'm beginning to believe that I have clogged some passages in the engine. If this is the case, does that mean the engine is hosed? I'm going to go for a BG flush and hope it breaks down the gunk, if that's what it is. Any suggestions are appreciated. At the rate its running hot now, if I don't find a fix soon, I will end up blowing/cracking this engine also. zzzasy '98 OBW

So, what do you think I should do? Buy a new rad or pay for a power flush? I believe I can get a new rad for around the same price of a power flush, but if the water jackets are clogged inside the inside the engine; wouldn't a power flush push it out. zzzasy

Thanks, I will double check the fans, but when I flushed the coolant, I let it run to operating temp and the fans came on. The fans kick on immediately when the air conditioning turned on. I put a lot of stop leak in the rad in the past thinking I had a HG problem, but I didn't. Could the amount of stop leak I used clogged the rad. When I flushed the rad, the water ran thru fine. zzzasy '98 outback limited

Fans are working fine. I removed the rad top and left it off for about 30 minutes hoping it would burp the air. What is the best way to burp the air? Also, when I'm running the air conditioner, I can tell when the temp gauge has gone up, because the cool air from the air conditioning turns warm. When I move again, the air turns cool immediately. zzzasy '98 outback limited