Jasper

Makes sense. The engine light was on before it died but I was afraid the code diagnostic reset and wouldn't reanalyze unless the car ran. Thanks.

It's still there but I would not have thought of that. Thanks

I'm determined to get my 88 dl 4wd running again. I was driving 3 years ago when the check engine light came on, 4 days later it just died while driving. I think the green connectors were plugged in the entire 4 days by accident. This all happened a couple of weeks after I purchased my new truck so the Subaru just went under the carport. This week I started crawling around inside it again. It won't start just like 3 years ago so pulled a fuel line and the pump works. Pulled a spark plug and no spark. My multi meter isn't the best but the plug seems ok, the wires are good, and the coil is new. Then I remembered the check engine self-diagnostic. However, no matter what mode, nothing connected, just green connected, or just white connected all I get are 5 fast flashes a 3 sec pause then another 5 fast flashes. This does not seem right as there is no "05" code. I was wondering if anyone knew why this is happening? Also, have I created a new issue driving around with the green connectors connected? Thanks

Thanks for the reply. I switched the ignition coil this morning and that did not help. I'll hunt down a meter today to test the old one, it was easier just to get a new coil and try to start her. Could leaving that connector plugged in for a week have fried something?

My 88 dl shut down and I think it is the ignition coil but........ After replacing my clutch a few months ago I could not get my 4wd to engage or the blower to rotate, always comes out vent never defrost or heater. I looked under the hood and found two green "T" shaped male and female electrical plugs disconnected next to the fuel filter, so I connected them. This did not fix the 4wd or blower but I left them connected anyway. A day or so later my "check engine" light came on, started blinking a few days after that, then the car shut down. Because the engine was shut down but all the electric was still on I could hear the fuel pump actuating every 3 seconds (I don't actually know what it is doing) which stops when I disconnect the green connecter. I do not have electrical section 6 Fuji Service Manual so I'm wondering what this connection does and if keeping connected shut the car down. It was running rough and I am not getting any spark so I'm thinking an unrelated coil. Also any thoughts on the 4wd and blower problem?

Can't do a "flat tow" because I need an alignment and the 2 front tires lost most of their tread driving her out here. Still have 2 good ones on the back. I also need to be on the road tomorrow so no time to fix now. I got a new truck and refuse to trade in the Subaru, we're in love. She got 26mpg on the way out here and only has 106,000 original miles.

Copy that mdjdc. I don't know why I said "cross brace", I just had all that off 3 weeks ago when I replaced the clutch (thanks for the advice on that one man on the moon). Never undid the 4 bolts at the carriet bearing but I see them now. I just took the carriet bearing off and slid the whole thing out of the tranny. So 8 bolts leave the carriet bearing and I'm good to go. This is a 1000 mile tow so the less stuff moving the less chance of something messing up. thanks again

Good to know sir, thank you. Save $200 by disconnecting 4 bolts (maybe 6 if it won't slide out of the cross brace) sounds like the option I'll go with.

Hey guys, I need to tow my 88 dl 4wd 1000 miles and I'm wondering what kind of trailer to rent from U-Haul. She is a 4wd but when not engaged isn't she front wheel drive? They have a low cost "Tow Dolly" option for front wheel drive vehicles in which the front wheels are up on the dolly and the back wheels spin free on the road. They also have a "Auto Transport" on which all four wheels are on the trailer. Can I use the "Tow Dolly" or should I use the "Auto Transport" because it is 4wd (and maybe rear wheel when not engaged). Thanks

I've had problems with my front left axle for years. I would replace it and it would immediately start clicking again. It never broke and after about 6 months i would get tired of the clicking, replace it and it would start clicking. So I recently replaced the wheel bearings, strut and strut cap thinking the clicking may be there but alas it was still clicking. So I ordered a new one and it is not the same size as the old one. I'm wondering which one is the correct size? Maybe the wrong size was the problem the whole time. The old clicking one is roughly 30in (76.2cm) and has a part# ncv66011 (I think). The new one is around 28in (71.1cm). It came from Auto Zone Part# 607009 with the description "cvj 025978 dura*" Seems like I accidentally put a short one in her years back and it pulled apart after I drove about a foot. Does anyone know which axle goes in my car? I hate clicking! *** Those ba%^#@^s sold me a 25 spline axle and mine is 23!!!! I also think the AZ part# is a warehouse #. I would still like to know axle size or part# for my car if anyone knows **** The parts guy is saying I have an XT DL. I don't see "xt" anywhere on the car. Is there such a thing as an XT DL wagon?

SOLVED: Yep, that's it. Awesome thanks!

The more I try to figure out where this spring goes the more I'm wondering if it is a clutch lever return spring. I'm gonna put the drive shaft and exhaust back on, fire her up and see what happens. I have service manuals and can't find this spring in them anywhere. I would post a pic of the spring but I can't figure out how to post pics. The "insert image" icon wants a URL. EDIT: figured out the pic thing with the help of imjur.

I just replaced my clutch in my 88 4wd dl. I have everything back together except I cannot figure out what the clutch lever return spring connects to besides the clutch lever. I'm thinking I'm missing/lost some part that goes on the cable bracket in front of the clutch lever that is mounted to the bolt top center of the tranny. If someone could take a pic of their clutch lever return spring connections (like I should have done) that would be awesome.

I've got it almost all back together, I also replaced my right strut, strut cap, hub barrings, and both side brakes. However, I cannot figure out what the clutch lever return spring connects to besides the clutch lever. I do have a wire holder bracket (I don't know what it is called) left over. I'm thinking this goes on the bolt top center of the tranny case and the spring goes on it but there is no hole in it, except a bolt hole, like the clutch lever or I'm missing a part. Thoughts.

OH MY GOD, what a knuckle busting pain in %$#!*. So I went from underneath and to be fair the hardest part is that I have never done this before. I had the help of a buddy which made a big difference. I probably disconnected more off the top than I needed to. I envisioned actually taking the tranny out but once I got it back about 6 inches I was able to get to the flywheel. I'm gonna take it to town tomorrow and have it surfaced then comes putting it back together. Thanks for the replies and I will post how the reattachment goes.

Thank you for the replies. As I said in the original post, I have never done a job like this. Moving the motor may not be the easiest for me so sliding the trans out the bottom it is. I was not aware I could/can just drop it down, and roll it back. I only have two stands so I think I'll pick up a couple more later today when I go get the clutch kit. Perhaps jacking the car up on four points will give me a little more room. I only weigh 165 lbs so I have no problem working underneath her.

man on the moon, when you say "pulled" you mean the "slide it forward" method don't you? I think I'm going to go with this approach and if I can't get to the clutch or I have a problem I can always "lift" the motor out at that point. What did you have to disconnect in order to slide it besides the transmission case from the engine, the fans and pulleys/accessories/belts and the mounts. Do you still have to disconnect fuel, power steering, etc? Thanks

Thanks for the replies. The clutch kit will be in on Tuesday and I'm trying to hunt an engine lift down although I'm still wondering if sliding the engine forward is a sound approach.

Oops, I meant "questions". Hello everyone. I need to change the clutch on my 88 dl 4wd. I've never done a job like this before but I have changed the cv axles and other minor repair work so I believe I have all the necessary tools except for a torque wrench. I live in the mountains and this is my only car so I need to make sure I have everything I need before I get started, no running down the street to the parts store around here. I do have a few starting questions,with more to follow I'm sure. a) Is everything I need contained in a “clutch kit” and who makes a good economical clutch kit. Do I need a torque wrench? c) Approach : From what I've read there are 3 ways to get to the clutch a) pull the engine. remove the radiator and slide the engine forward and c) jack up the car and remove the transmission from underneath. Which way should I attack? I'm leaning toward taking approach C even though it appears to be the most frustrating way to do the job. I do not have an engine lift and pulling the engine seems a little overwhelming to me. Sliding the engine forward seems doable but does it really make it easier? Thoughts please. I'll post updates and I'm sure I will have more questions as I dive in. Thanks.