stewartkb

Thanks for the reply. I only removed the one bolt to clean it. I am willing to check the intake manifold gasket, I just have to find the procedure so I know what I am doing. Would this also explain the loss of power? That would be great if so.

While driving (typically low speeds and high speeds) it will lose power, pushing on the pedal doesn't do anything. At times it will stutter and regain power...Otherwise I have to pull it to the side of the road where it goes low idle and dies. Restart car and it goes again, sometimes with continued issues, sometimes none. Don't have time to delve into it. Although the XT is driveable still, I don't want to push it.

What is the link to them? Dimensions / color(s)? I operate an online decal shop and have been working on some designs for my XT, but would be willing to work on other designs (right now I only cut single color vinyl).

New alternator in, it is at a nice constant 14.5 while running - Also the drain is almost nonexistent. Seemed to actually clear up the jumpy RPMs, still plagued with the high idle. Going to try and adjust the idle tomorrow and see what happens; along with some new plugs/wires, dist cap & rotor. Probably check the timing too.

Well, I had to put a new battery in it - Other battery was toast when I went outside a few days ago and was unable to bring it up with the battery charger overnight. Go outside this morning to head into town and the new battery is drained. I have the charger on it right now. Interestingly enough, I left the key in the on position and hooked up the battery charger - the passenger side fan kicked on; so I am guessing this indicates some type of parasitic drain/short somewhere in the system? Edit: There appears to be a -2.35 drain somewhere in the system (figured there would be more to drain a battery overnight). I pulled all the fuses in the cab and it did nothing. I then pulled the 125 black fusible link and the drain went down to -0.02. Any thoughts or does anyone have a diagram to see what it controls? Second Edit: I may be answering my own questions here. The black fusible link goes to the white wire which goes to the alternator. What I thought was belt squeal may be alternator squeal. The battery checked in at about 12.10 (I jumped started it), upon starting the obnoxious squeal began and the meter was only reading 12.56ish. Once the squeal stopped it jumped to about 13.51 and got to a max of 13.56. From what I know off hand it should be between 14.2 to 14.7 to be considered "good working condition." After turning the car off the battery steadily tricked down and hovered around 12.47. So I know the alternator is charging, but definitely has issues. If anyone has any recommendations or comments to add before I drop $120 bucks on an alternator, it would be appreciated -- thanks in advance! This also doesn't explain the phantom fan, but piece at a time I guess.

Both boots seem to be clean, no tears. I do have a multimeter, I will have to break it out! I appreciate the info!

So here are some videos of the developing issues; first video shows the RPM spikes when I activate and deactivate the heater - Second video shows the spikes while driving; also when coming to a stop, the idle will bounce around and it will sometimes die on me (at certain times though it seems like the numbers just bounce, but the actual idle doesn't). It has progressively gotten worse in symptoms over the last month. First: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Q14wJB4zc1UU9mX2kzVkZmdmM/view?usp=sharing Second: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Q14wJB4zc1X25UcTF5RGtGYUU/view?usp=sharing On the brighter side here is some eye candy:

Sorry for the late replies! It has been busy around here, especially with the weather. I was concerned yesterday with how wet my engine bay got from the trek to town and back; practically plowing snow, but the spaceship does amazing for FWD. She is also starting to idle higher and higher in the morning (upwards of 1500-2K RPM). That being said, often times after an hour or two of warming up and running around the idle will sit steady between 550-750. Guess it's time to figure that one out.. It appears to be consistent with speed. The faster I go the more it clicks, and eventually at low speeds it's not audible. I will try to get some audio clips. Green connectors in the trunk are disconnected and white ones as well under the hood.

New knock sensor in. Discovered I popped a hose off when I replaced the air filter, which may have contributed to the issue. She's up and running. Noticed some random spikes of high idling, but not too concerned at this point. Also noticed a clicking sound coming from the driver side dash while driving, but can't seem to locate the source. Got some snow tires put on just in time, it's starting to come down pretty hard tonight.

Awesome thank you for clarifying, I did not realize it was a dealer only part.

Looking all over and I cannot find it! Is there a specific company or maybe a link? Thanks so much! Ahhh that explains it. Thank you for clarifying.

Yeah of course - These are on Rock Auto (cheaper than anywhere else I could find). It appears so, unless my car was repaired at some point in time and they used an 86' a donor? OR it was just an early 87 perhaps? I will have to go through the stack of maintenance records and check it. I appreciate it, I have the new one on the way already, BUT I do need a new socket for it to splice into the wiring harness as mine is trashed. It broke off while moving it out of the way to get to the sensor. I checked around online and locally for one that might match, but no luck. Also, any idea of a part number/replacement for this broken hose? Thanks

Actually just discovered the knock sensor on my 87' is listed under the 86' model, go figure. So I will be returning and ordering the right one.

Because I am not familiar with the resistor procedure I went ahead and ordered a new sensor... Only it has one post instead of two. It is identical to the old one besides that - Meaning I would need a new plug as well to fit it. Any thoughts on this if I tried it? From what I've read, one wire is a ground, whereas the single pin grounds via the body?

Thanks for the help. Ouch yeah, $75.00 for the cheap one on Rock Auto. No one locally even has them in their system.