stewartkb

Thanks for the reply. I only removed the one bolt to clean it. I am willing to check the intake manifold gasket, I just have to find the procedure so I know what I am doing. Would this also explain the loss of power? That would be great if so.

While driving (typically low speeds and high speeds) it will lose power, pushing on the pedal doesn't do anything. At times it will stutter and regain power...Otherwise I have to pull it to the side of the road where it goes low idle and dies. Restart car and it goes again, sometimes with continued issues, sometimes none. Don't have time to delve into it. Although the XT is driveable still, I don't want to push it.

What is the link to them? Dimensions / color(s)? I operate an online decal shop and have been working on some designs for my XT, but would be willing to work on other designs (right now I only cut single color vinyl).

New alternator in, it is at a nice constant 14.5 while running - Also the drain is almost nonexistent. Seemed to actually clear up the jumpy RPMs, still plagued with the high idle. Going to try and adjust the idle tomorrow and see what happens; along with some new plugs/wires, dist cap & rotor. Probably check the timing too.

Well, I had to put a new battery in it - Other battery was toast when I went outside a few days ago and was unable to bring it up with the battery charger overnight. Go outside this morning to head into town and the new battery is drained. I have the charger on it right now. Interestingly enough, I left the key in the on position and hooked up the battery charger - the passenger side fan kicked on; so I am guessing this indicates some type of parasitic drain/short somewhere in the system? Edit: There appears to be a -2.35 drain somewhere in the system (figured there would be more to drain a battery overnight). I pulled all the fuses in the cab and it did nothing. I then pulled the 125 black fusible link and the drain went down to -0.02. Any thoughts or does anyone have a diagram to see what it controls? Second Edit: I may be answering my own questions here. The black fusible link goes to the white wire which goes to the alternator. What I thought was belt squeal may be alternator squeal. The battery checked in at about 12.10 (I jumped started it), upon starting the obnoxious squeal began and the meter was only reading 12.56ish. Once the squeal stopped it jumped to about 13.51 and got to a max of 13.56. From what I know off hand it should be between 14.2 to 14.7 to be considered "good working condition." After turning the car off the battery steadily tricked down and hovered around 12.47. So I know the alternator is charging, but definitely has issues. If anyone has any recommendations or comments to add before I drop $120 bucks on an alternator, it would be appreciated -- thanks in advance! This also doesn't explain the phantom fan, but piece at a time I guess.

Both boots seem to be clean, no tears. I do have a multimeter, I will have to break it out! I appreciate the info!

So here are some videos of the developing issues; first video shows the RPM spikes when I activate and deactivate the heater - Second video shows the spikes while driving; also when coming to a stop, the idle will bounce around and it will sometimes die on me (at certain times though it seems like the numbers just bounce, but the actual idle doesn't). It has progressively gotten worse in symptoms over the last month. First: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Q14wJB4zc1UU9mX2kzVkZmdmM/view?usp=sharing Second: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Q14wJB4zc1X25UcTF5RGtGYUU/view?usp=sharing On the brighter side here is some eye candy:

Sorry for the late replies! It has been busy around here, especially with the weather. I was concerned yesterday with how wet my engine bay got from the trek to town and back; practically plowing snow, but the spaceship does amazing for FWD. She is also starting to idle higher and higher in the morning (upwards of 1500-2K RPM). That being said, often times after an hour or two of warming up and running around the idle will sit steady between 550-750. Guess it's time to figure that one out.. It appears to be consistent with speed. The faster I go the more it clicks, and eventually at low speeds it's not audible. I will try to get some audio clips. Green connectors in the trunk are disconnected and white ones as well under the hood.

New knock sensor in. Discovered I popped a hose off when I replaced the air filter, which may have contributed to the issue. She's up and running. Noticed some random spikes of high idling, but not too concerned at this point. Also noticed a clicking sound coming from the driver side dash while driving, but can't seem to locate the source. Got some snow tires put on just in time, it's starting to come down pretty hard tonight.

Awesome thank you for clarifying, I did not realize it was a dealer only part.

Looking all over and I cannot find it! Is there a specific company or maybe a link? Thanks so much! Ahhh that explains it. Thank you for clarifying.

Yeah of course - These are on Rock Auto (cheaper than anywhere else I could find). It appears so, unless my car was repaired at some point in time and they used an 86' a donor? OR it was just an early 87 perhaps? I will have to go through the stack of maintenance records and check it. I appreciate it, I have the new one on the way already, BUT I do need a new socket for it to splice into the wiring harness as mine is trashed. It broke off while moving it out of the way to get to the sensor. I checked around online and locally for one that might match, but no luck. Also, any idea of a part number/replacement for this broken hose? Thanks

Actually just discovered the knock sensor on my 87' is listed under the 86' model, go figure. So I will be returning and ordering the right one.

Because I am not familiar with the resistor procedure I went ahead and ordered a new sensor... Only it has one post instead of two. It is identical to the old one besides that - Meaning I would need a new plug as well to fit it. Any thoughts on this if I tried it? From what I've read, one wire is a ground, whereas the single pin grounds via the body?

Thanks for the help. Ouch yeah, $75.00 for the cheap one on Rock Auto. No one locally even has them in their system.

Sounds like an awesome deal! Most paint suppliers have books upon books of colors you can go through, as well as extensive online databases. If you have an example of what you want, they can match it pretty close if you take it to them. As far as base/clear it's easier to fix mistakes than a single stage. Also in my opinion, more durable. How extensive of a job are they doing? It should look great if the time is put into it (primer, blocking and sanding in multiple stages before paint - prep is everything!). Would love to see it!

Got a bit more done today - changed the oil, new air filter and windshield wiper (so cool I only have to buy one) - While pulling the air box off I discovered I separated a sensor that must have already been damaged and the car will not idle now. Any ideas on the exact name of this sensor? My best guess is it's the Air Intake / Charge Temperature Sensor? Thanks!

Thank you for the replies. I put the battery on the charger, it was practically discharged. I pulled and cleaned all of the grounds under the hood that I could find. Checked all electrical connections (some are very thick with grease). Replaced the fuel filter - while unplugging the fuel pump to relieve pressure I noticed it had a gooey gas smelling substance underneath it on the mounting plate - so I pulled the pump to inspect it further assuming it was leaking. It looked fine, just dirty, but the end connecting the larger fuel tank hose was pretty gunked up. Scraped away the build up and reconnected everything, unfortunately I need to get a new hose tomorrow because it's slightly leaking where the buildup was. No biggie. Tried to turn the car over, still won't start. Remembered to check the computer - Only code it's giving me is 12 (which appears to be the starter switch or circuit). Got this little piece of advice on the XT Forum: I go outside and find this ground, I didn't even realize it was there. Visually it appeared fairly dirty. Pulled it out and realized it was pretty bad. Cleaned it up with a wire brush and some scuffing pads and wrenched it back down. Turned the car over. It started right up. Tested it about 5 more times, started up no problem. Tested headlights, turned on cruise, car continued to run just fine. I am not going to actually test it on the road until I replace that fuel line. I am HOPING this is the root of all evil. I will keep you all posted. Tune up goodies soon to be on order from Rock Auto.

Posted this over on the XT Forum as well - I have been on the hunt for an XT6 AWD, and STILL am. However, I thought I would share this 1987 XT Turbo 2-wheel drive that I picked up yesterday (it was too nice to pass up and practically in my backyard). 88,000 miles. Full maintenance records. Really clean interior, seems it was well taken care of. The previous owner disclosed it has cold start issues, which I verified, but once warm it idled fine. It performed flawlessly on my test drive, which was quite extensive 20+ minutes of issue free driving and testing all the bells and whistles - however on my way home it began to stall constantly and lose power when pressing on the accelerator (I'm wondering if this is related to the starting issue?). After getting home I noticed turning on cruise or headlights will trigger the car to die as well; the outside temperature gauge appears to be inop. It has been sitting, so once I get the chance I will try the basics (fresh fuel, fuel filter, fuses, etc). Have any of you experienced similar issues? I'd like to drive her until I find an XT6. Regardless of outcome, it was about the rescue of the car Thanks for looking.

I live in Bend, I'll keep my eye out!

Can't wait to see more.

As of 12/21/2014 Since last update... - Weber installed. (Some local Subie guys really hooked me up on this one! Pulled her into their garage, and I didn't even touch a single tool while they tore into her. Runs TONS better. I had a plethora of vacuum leaks, and the old carb was definitely on it's last leg.) - Replaced thermostat again with a FailSafe thermostat. - Did another complete coolant flush. - Replaced heater resistor and clips on HVAC. Continued/New Issues: - Accelerator cable is shot. (Have one on order!) - Heater still will not blow warm air consistently and cold air blowing through front vents while fan is off. - Blinkers stopped blinking, but stay on. (Flasher unit?) - AC Compressor is still seized, new one still in garage. Still looking for: - Alternator upgrade Dirty engine compartment with some shiny:

Also forgot to mention, the sun visor plug will be receiving it's body filler skin tomorrow and undergo lots of sanding for final shape; in prep for primer. Will update with pictures.

It's possible. For such a thin narrow piece, it might be better to use carbon fiber, rather than glass. Either way though, it can be done with delicate planning! I was actually throwing some sketches down for an ea81 coupe spoiler. I found a post with one that someone had made ages ago (I don't remember if it was ea81 or earlier), and slapped a 4WD logo in the center of it. It looked pretty clean, and it got the creative juices flowing. I would need someone with an EA82 console and some ideas to show me what they want - As far as console customization goes though, it would just take some time and effort to build the plug and all of that good stuff. If it's like the EA81 console, it should be pretty boxy in shape? I had to PM him and ask for the build thread. That thing is so sweet...and those louvers...ugh Haha I feel ya $$. Louvers will definitely be a future endeavor, so give me some time! I like the high console idea though. Even in my wagon it feels off not having a place to rest my right arm. +1 on that. Interesting. It sounds like he got some old stock of them, but he has 30 sets! Need some minor gelcoat/crack repair. I wonder who made them. Well, they will be less than stock, that's for sure. My guess the hood would be around 9-13 lbs depending on layup ... The rest of the panels/add-ons would be significantly less as well versus their metal counterparts. Pricing would depend on the usual factors of material cost and labor - We aren't all heavy in the pockets here, so I wouldn't price anything unreasonable by any means.

Louvers are a great idea! Definitely going to toss that around in my head for awhile. I know I want some for the wagon. I am trying to keep everything adhesive mounted versus drilling as well (besides direct replacement stuff like fenders of course). I know a lot people don't like to make holes in their rides. I've looked also, so I think this is going to be the best way to get what we want. The overseas shipping with the item cost is just sad. I will definitely keep this post updated! Thanks for posting that, it is definitely a different looking visor and the mesh material they use is interesting as well. I do like the design though. It looks like it mounts to the rain gutters? Hey that is a great idea, considering my dash is cracked too. I think it would be fairly straight forward, even if it was just as simple as a "skin" to lay over it that snaps in place using the existing hardware. Everything is pretty boxy in shape, so there are no real "tight" spots. I like this. No problem, thanks for the thread. That's a sweet looking wagon. That's definitely an option, I have access to an 82 Brat and my 79' to play around with. What type of Brat goodies were you thinking? Glad I'm not the only one Appreciate the input all.