nickb21

+1 to what lmdew said. I personally fill the rad as well, then start the engine and top off the rad. I've always done this with the car pointed uphill, might not do anything, but I think it helps.

Well, I'm 1 step closer. I found the oil pressure switch is leaking prettttty good. It's only like a 15-20$ part, so I'll probably just pop for a new one. Switch works fine as far as i know; any way to just reseal the existing one? Seems like maybe it just uses an o-ring?

It figures that this weekend the temps decide to roll on up to near 50. Definitely could have cranked out the swap outside, ah well.

Glad to hear this is moving along at least. Where did you find the motor?

Any idea what the previous owner was using (or is that you)? I would just suggest using the factory recomended weight in full synthetic...

I've drive the 6MT newer Outback once, it seemed pretty smooth, especially coupled with the electronic throttle. Clutch feel was good, not too heavy, not too light. This is of course coming from my '02 with a non electronic throttle. 16" tires are def cheaper than 17's. You can also get a variety of 16" alloys off other subaru's and I see a fair amount of folks selling "take-off" gen4 Outback alloys. 6MT is still viscous coupler. I imagine the harness has changed between '04 and '14, but the bigger concern would be the dash opening - I don't think the facia is the standard double-din type opening anymore.

Glad to hear you had a good chat with them. Yea, there aren't many yards around here with 'ru's. I'm curious where they end up getting one from. Brass Castle salvage is just up the road, so is Columbia Too, and Route 57 Auto Salvage is pretty close as well. I guess it comes down to final cost, and will you then plan on keeping the car around (if the rest of it is in good shape) vs forking out for a "new" car. --Nick

I'm not a huge fan of Patrick's but I've only heard from a few people who have been there, no personal experience. If it comes down to that I would try Bill's in Clinton, or maybe one of the places in Annandale. Let me know how it goes. Did you already pickup a motor for the car, or do you still need to source that? I'm sure you don't want to spend towing + premium hourly rate, but a place like AZP in Kenilworth would probably be able to do this kinda thing without question. If it wasn't freezing, I had a garage, and an engine hoist I'd be willing to at least say we could take a crack at it.

Yep, it's off to the side. Excellent info, thanks. I'm 99% sure the front isn't leaking, but will tear into Sat morn when there is some actual light out, and the temp isn't 10 degrees.

Clinton, eh? I'm pretty close to there. Broadway Automotive - (Broadway, NJ - about 20 minutes up the road) - is a Subaru shop, probably your best bet in the immediate area. I'd be willing to lend a hand otherwise, but it's a bit beyond what I'm equipped for. :-/

It's too bad these won't fit in a flat-rate box (will they?). I would buy a dozen from the south/southwest just to hand out to all the people who have to swear over these.

Thanks, that's def good to know. Are there o-rings in the bottom of the reservoir? Doesn't appear to be any in this pic: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_2/steering/power_steering_system/ VC's are in OK shape, don't think they're leaking on top of the head. I guess the back of the pump housing comes apart? Maybe it's leaking at the bottom of that and I can't tell.

2000 Legacy L. I did a fair amount of reading, but had a question or two and thought I would try to get things in order since I may only have 1 shot at this (temps finally getting into the 30's this weekend). I've got a pretty solid leak from the bottom of the p/s reservoir, most noticeable on the pass subframe. In addition there seems to be either p/s fluid or oil on top of the pass. side head. The low pressure hose on the top of the pump and high pressure hose (has o-ring which is apparently a common leak) aren't leaking (at the pump at least). I don't think the sensor is, but need to double check (if it is, it's only a drop). Does the pump leak underneath by any chance? My plan is to replace the suction and return hoses (34611AE08A,34611AE09A; which seem like dealer only), and probably the o-ring. Anything else I should check? PCV valve and hoses are clear, guess I need to check the breather on that side though. Thanks for the help!

My guess is that there is a separate reflector section built into one of the rear tails for that fog. Didn't nipper install some kinda rear (red) fog light on one of his Outbacks?

Did they really flip back and forth? On my '02 OB the PCV is on the block (thought it remained on the case for at least the rest of that gen). I know 2000's(all?) were on the intake.

There is a fusible link on the back of the lighter socket itself that will pop when there is too much current draw/heat. You'll need to pop the socket out to access it. I think I wrapped some thin copper wire 22ga? around mine when it blew. I'm sure the right way to do it is replace it with a heat sensitive wire.

Uhaul sells and installs (I assume only some locations install). Check their website, I believe they have free shipping for hitches.

+1 for the vice grips. I feel like when I replaced mine, one wasn't too too bad, and I put a hex key in one side? Might be thinking of something entirely different though.

I will throw out a guess - might not help at all. I believe I read that it's pretty normal on this gen when the CEL comes on that at least cruise and possibly stability control become disabled. Also - you can pull the codes through the display on the dash. Edit: Yay google: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

Yep, 2005 Legacy's went turbo on GT models. (No non-turbo GT's made). 2007 was the last year of the Legacy Wagons. 2008 all wagons were Outbacks. I believe you could still get "Special Edition" Legacy's, which was like a premium equipment package.

Hehe. +1 I've had pretty good luck loosening the lug nuts, and just tightening them ever so slightly, then let the car roll forward a foot and slam on the brakes. Only once have I had to actually drive any distance to free one wheel up. Before doing that you might also try placing a 4x4 against the rim/wheel and pounding on it with a 2-3lb hammer. Works if they aren't too stuck together. I've been coating the surfaces with anti-sieze and so far so good.

Holy bump from the past! On my '02 the buttons on the left (cruise, fog, etc) and the buttons on the center stack (rear def, re-circ, etc) are all back-lit. I'm not sure about the hazard button, for some reason I don't think it's back-lit.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/24481-wheres-fuel-filter-3.html#post463167 PDF of replacement procedure. Not sure exactly what models it applies to.

I'll try to find another source, but fuel filter went IN tank around MY2005 (at least for Legacy/Outback).

I don't know much about the TPMS system, they became standard in Subaru's maybe around '06? So if you look for wheels that age or newer you might be able to buy the wheels with the sensors. There are a ton of wheels that will fit. Outback/Forester wheels use an offset of 48. Legacy/Impreza wheels have an offset of 55. Otherwise both will have the same lug pattern (5x100) and the same sizes 16x6.5 (and 17x7). [Generally speaking; there are a few exceptions]. I did a lot of research and the 7mm difference in offset isn't really a big deal for all intents and purposes. Going to the smaller rim size will be bringing the tire in a bit from the fender anyway. Check out subaruoutback.org, subaruforester.org, and nasioc.com (Always lots of WRX/Impreza wheels for sale there).