nickb21

Finally got around to catching up.. Mine is the newer gen, but maybe there are some similiarities. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7141

Glad I read through this thread, I'm coming up to my 30k mark and am due for a plug change ('02 OBW). From what I've read I'll be going with the NGK's, even though the factory plugs are champion I believe. Not sure if you guys have a napa around, but I just looked up their proces online: NGK - Iridium IX 3764 $ 8.49 NGK - Laser Plat. 4014 $ 12.69 NGK - G Power Plat. 7092 $ 2.19 I thought the iridum's were better plugs, wonder why they would be cheaper...

On my old FWD car I had a outer CV going (really contaminated with crud) and I had some pretty violent pulls to the side that was going bad. Probably a good place to look. I would think that a twitch might indicate the beginning of a failure, but with good boots, sounds weird..

Yup, it's just after the first one or two applications, then they are smooth as silk. Thanks for the help!

The front brakes on my 02 outback have been getting sticking at first start lately. I'm guessing it could be a combination of the colder temps and moisture in the air from the snow and rain we've had. After I've let the car site for a few hours (during work) or overnight, it's a noticebale pause and cracking noise once i start moving. Where I park at work the temps in the parking deck are usually in the low 40's, of course cooler where it sits outside at home. From what I can tell the calipers aren't sticking, aren't pulling to a side when breaking and the rotors don't feel very hot even after a bit of a drive with light breaking. Anyone else notice this? Maybe just has to do with the surface of the pads and rotors (recently cut)? Thanks.

Think I got a little confused in my reply. A smaller alt. pulley will produce more alternator spin (more current) at lower rpm's, but this is called an overdrive pulley. An underdrive pulley is larger in diameter and will slow down the rotation of the alt. freeing up power for the wheels. 27 amps doesn't sound like too much, where are you measuring from the alt to the batt? Your site mentions a 150 amp alternator, I would think that would be quite a bit. Is your wiring beefed up enough? You'd need some pretty heavy gauge stuff to the batt. and then maybe some fairly heavy gauge stuff to some distribution points for the more power hungry accesories. Better batt is not a bad idea either.

Actually, think you would need an "over" drive pulley on the alt. I've never heard of one, not sure if you'd need to worry about the alternator spinning too much when the engine is at high rpms..

Yup, the original front rotors on the 2000 models were the same as the previous generation, and with the added weight didn't hold up as well. I know that 2001 outbacks got the bigger front rotors, but I'm not sure if all the other models got them as well. As far as I know, if you have the 16" wheels then you shouldn't have a problem putting on the bigger rotors. There may be some more info in this thread as far as brakes go: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8060 There are a few recalls for rustproofing, and one or two other things, not sure which models it's for though. You might take a look here: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ You can punch in the make model and get TSB and recall info.

Yea, I saw that commercial the other day, wasn't quite sure what to make of it. I wonder how the their system works, if its 2wd unless it senses a traction issue, which means it then has to engage the other axel, or is it some kind or 90/10 split. I can see some degree of fuel savings by using a 2wd configuration, but can it really be that much.. Alias made a pretty good comment in one of his other posts: Would you rather have a system that's "always on" and ready, or one that'll have to kick in and figure out what it needs to do... just my thoughts.

Yep, I'm 99% sure you'll have to drill, I read the install instructions for the plastic dust deflector, and you need to drill for that one too. I like the look of the spoiler, but at 200 odd bucks, and drilling holes in my car, I don't like it that much. There are probably some nicer aftermarket ones too. Now the hood/bug gaurd thing that goes on the front has like too built-in screws under the hood, and a couple clips, I might pick one of them up..

I'd take a look at crutchfield and see if there is anything you like in a single or double DIN, a lot of the double's come with CD and tape, they usually have cooler/larger displays as well. The see if some other place has a better price. I'd also suggest to get one of the wiring harness adapters, instead of cutting up the wires, they're only 10 or 15 bucks I think. Alias has a nice write-up describing how to take the dash apart and do the install. If you do go with double din, you might want to keep the open storage bin, I have a double din in my OB, and it's a bit tight to access the open button on the closed storage tray. Oh yea, and If you plan on adding a sub/amp, you'll probably want to make sure the unit has pre-amp outputs, they'll make hooking that stuff up easier.

I Thought the original article was still floating around, couldn't find it though, this one has a little more info at the end.. http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/ferrari/464/coolant.htm What a pain! I was wondering the same when I got my outback a few months ago, it had green stuff in it, so I went with prestone, which I've heard has a lot of silicate. Interesting article though, silicate is good for protecting aluminum radiators, but in one section says it's bad for water pump seals, in the next section it says seals have gotten better and should be fine. Hmm.. So what does subaru put in them in the factory? Japanese coolant in the models made there, and conventional green stuff in the ones put together in the US? The article mentions the conventional green US stuff should be fine in japanese cars..

Safety glasses? Oh come now, need to have some fun in knowing you might hurt yourself while working on your car! Of course my tune would change real quick after I lost or damaged one of my eyes!

Sorry to hear, accidents are no fun. I'm not an expert, but I've rigged back together a couple cars.. Was this a fairly low-speed collision? Slower the speed, better chance there is that nothing like gaskets shifted around too far. Was the tire just sliced and went flat or was it smacked into pretty good? If it was just sliced you have a good chance that you won't need to worry about the suspension being upset/mis-aligned, you'll be able to tell when you get it back up to 60 or 70mph. I guess the cost depends on how nice you want things to look when you're finished, and how much work you can do, or have some folks give you a ahand with. From what you've said it doesn't seem like there is any serious mechanical damage, i would imagine that if you're not getting any leaks from the main part of the radiator it'll be ok. From the photos, I'd say the quarter panel is too far gone to be saved. The bumper doesn't look too bad, but I'm not sure how far the steel wraps around, you might be able to bang it straight enough with a hammer, and let the plastic cover do it's thing. Looks like the hood still latches ok, and I'd try to pop out the big dent, and see if you can bend that corner into reasonable shape. Then hopefully you'll have things okay for a new marker and headlight from junkyard. That's what I'd give a try doing, actually had a similiar hit on my last car. As long as you don't mind how it looks, you can get some decent results with duplicolor spray paint that will match pretty close, and maybe throw in some bondo. I've always heard that it's cheaper to fix what you have (within reason or course), then to go buy another used car and start over, at least you know this cars history for the past few years. Not sure how much the timing belt change/brake work will add to the end cost though, vs a "new" car..

I think some of the Outback models have side airbags, maybe just the LTD and H6's? Pretty sure the Legacy GT has side airbags too. I thought the outback was a bit bigger interior wise and cargo, but I hear the forester is no slouch. I wasn't a big fan of the foresters body style though..

Thanks for the info, guess I should have read the mobile 1 bottle a little more closely. It doesn't get all that cold here, but I figure I'll give it a try the next go around. Thanks.

Warranty? Must be the super-extended one :-) . Is it a really tinny kinda sound? My guess would be the heat sheilds that wrap around the exhaust are coming loose. These cars seem to have a lot of sheilding and after awhile things loosen up, have you peered under the car and given a listen?

I know I saw this mentioned in a seperate thread, but I'm not all that clear.. If you use a synth gear oil in a 5MT, should you, or do you need to add a friction modifier? Same goes if you have the VLSD, since the lsd isn't mechanical, should you use a friciton modifier anyway, or are you better off without it? :-\

Hmm, maybe this is where my windnoise is coming from, it's got a different pitch/noise and happens at different speeds than the roof rack wind noise. I'll have a go at it, thanks for the great info.

Congrats on the new OB, i'm pretty new too ('02 w/28k). In addition to mysubaru, you can take a look at: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ for recall and TSB info. But the dealer should be able to find out what recalls were done by using your VIN to access subaru's records. Thats how they figured out my anti-corrosion stuff wasn't done yet.

That's a pretty cool setup synbad, wish we had those TwinT's in the US, maybe one day.. :cool:

Nice, I would never have found that by just looking.. thanks alias.

You should be able to buy a speaker level to preamp output converter, I'm not sure if crutchfield has them, partsexpress.com use to... ** Look under Electronic Crossovers By the way, where/how are you going to run the +12v from the batt to your amp? I'd like to re-hook up my sub one of these days, but would like to be nice and neat about punching that hole in the firewall..

Definitley not complaining, just nit-picking. It struck me odd that none of my other cars showed that amount of rust. The brakes have done their job thus far, I don't see any problems in that area, I'm pretty easy on 'em anyways.

I had some warped rotors that the dealer took care of under the 3/36, not sure if that's always the case.. Is there a better aftermarket replacement for the stock rotors? Nothing crazy like like slotted or X-drilled, but I've noticed mine start to rust/corrode very easily, the car only has to sit a day or two for it to be visibly noticeable (and you hear it the first two or three times you brake ). So i'm guessing it's just a combo of my climate and the rotor material...