nickb21

Did it roll back with some resistance? If you pull up on the brake more does it work better? I'm noticing a similiar (hopefully) thing with my 02, I have to yank up really hard to get the brake set. I'm planning on pulling the console apart and tightening things up via the adjuster screw thats in there. Else, I hear you have to do some adjustments at the parking break drums in back. As for removing the console, someone has a nice write-up on removing things for a stereo install, that should get me most of the way there. I'll take a look and see if I can find the link.

Wow, thanks, must have been reading my mind because I was about to ask the question to this answer! It's going to start dropping down below freezing at nights and once it starts freezing rain, I wasn't sure how I'd be able to open my door! Any preference with which silicon, or just whatever walmart/hardware store has in a can? Thanks again!

I thought I saw something on 60minutes a few months ago and that all you needed to do was provide a dealer with your VIN, and as long as you had the proper paperwork (sometimes you didn't, eek!) they could lookup the key code and cut a replacement. Of course, on my old sentra when my tumbler got screwed up I ripped off the plastic, and had to drill out the fasteners that held the ignition to the steering column, on mine there was a "bolt" that stuck into the column that locked the steering wheel, easy enough to eliminate by shifting the ignition position. Hotwiring was easy enough from there.. Of course I would hope they have made some improvements since the early 80's..

Hmm, I think the issue they aren't recommended is because of the lack of clearence with the 16" wheels.. I've never tried, but I would think there is enough if you keep things nice and tight... Kinda interested in this myself, not that I'd ever need them here, but I did a quick search in google groups, ( http://groups.google.com ) and found some mention off the following: http://www.spikes-spiders.com/ http://www.scc-chain.com/ I'm sure some of the folks in the NW/NE have some more insight. I suppose SOA might have some type of recommendation as well. --Nick

Does sound like an unusually low mileage for this to happen, I have about 30k on my outback and it's got about half the pad left. I guess it's possible that if the pad cracked off you could be hitting the backing plate on one side. If you're hearing a grinding I'd check the surface of the rotors, see if there are any deep grooves, else I would think you could have them re-surfaced (if they haven't been already). You might also want to check to make sure the grinding isn't else where, like a torn CV boot causing the joint to get upset. In either MY2001 or MY2002 they increased the size of the front rotor to deal with the extra weight of the new design, can't remember which, but make sure it's the bigger size. I've seen this site mentioned on these forums as a pretty good place for parts, http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ . Hope this helps. --Nick

Good news! I'm not completely crazy after all. Brought it down to the shop, was able to duplicate it with a mechanic, and they just put in a new clutch kit today. Definitely feels a lot better than the previous "kit" they put in, time will tell. Interestingly enough, the previous replacement that got put in wasn't the official kit, or so I'm told, but the individual parts, flywheel, clutch, etc.. so maybe someone got the wrong stuff. One of the immediate differences I noticed was the first replacement clutch grabbed really close to the floor but then rasied up after a few hundred miles. This new one today catches a more comfortable hight immediately. The other thing I noticed, is this time my in-dash and radio clock were off this time, so I assume the batt. was disconnected, last time, everything was fine, not sure if you can pull the motor without unhooking the batt... So I'm guessing the computer is reset, do I need to do anything special, or will it just re-learn automatically? I assume the dealer followed whatever procedure is appropriate for the first start up after the reset... Now hopefully I have all these voices straightened out..

Def. need some more info.. but i would first double check the torque on the lug nuts, then probably balance the tires. If that doesn't help, you'll have to dive into the suspension, my old car was pretty loose up front and some new tie rods (outer, then inner) helped out a lot.. I would think that your rotors would have to be really messed up to cause non-braking vibration... just a few thoughts.

That sucks. Cars shouldn't be allowed to have front license plates, makes them look so ugly. Too bad here in NJ you have to have one.. hope it works out well...

Yup, spoke to one of the mechanics today, apparently I have to pop loose the plastic wood trim around the shifter, pop some pins for the center console and pry that up. Guess I'll have a go at it this weekend, fun fun!

I was hoping to adjust the the parking brake on my 02 outback today, I don't think it's been tightened up before. Having some trouble getting the center console / armrest out though, I removed the 5 screws that I can see, and everything is loose, but I can't pull the back half off. Is there another screw I missed, or do I have to pull the whole section with the cupholders and around the shifter off first? Thanks for the help!

Okay, so about 600 miles ago I had the clutch replaced in my ’02 outback (under warr.), it had a wicked cold shudder. First couple hundred miles it was nice and smooth, engaged a little close to the floor, but I could deal. Now, it seems to have come back ( cold and warm ), not as pronounced this time. Engagement around 1k rpm seems to cause it to mildly shudder, higher revs are ok. It’s also easily noticeable with idle starts on flat ground. I don’t think the revs are low enough to lug, and it doesn’t feel like an engine lug. Can anyone else start up in first just by using the idle power? Maybe something is glazed? Broken spring? I guess I’ll sneak down to the dealer and see if the have any 03/04’s for me to test this out on, before I grab a mechanic. I Read through the, “SOA didn't fix my clutch-shudder problem!” and “What's the Verdict on the new Subaru Clutches?” threads, maybe I just need to try out 2 or 3 clutches on for size... Thanks for any insight; I definitely appreciate all the help I’ve received here.

Nice, the diff should work perfect, I don't have a metal plate over the end, is that like a skid plate? But the end is pretty flat. I bet the screw jack will fit in the spot on the side, I think the arrow points to the mount for the rear trailing arm, but my floor jack doesn't quite have enough room with that plastic flap thingy in the way. Thanks! Should make next time a bit easier!

Rotated my tires today on my 02 ob, putting the front on jack stands was easy enough, there is a nice section of frame right there. However, I couldn't quite find a real good spot in the back. I looked in the manual, and found the "crimpled" section of metal near the skirt. But I couldn't see any spot near there... There is a spot on the rear subframe next to where the diff is mounted, but it is a little high of the ground, my jack barely can get it high enough in the air. Anyone else have a good spot? Or am I just mising it? Thanks all.

Hmm, I think the passenger side fan is just for the AC Compressor, it should only go on when the compressor is engaged. Do you hear the compressor click on? And still no fan? You might try checking the connection, should be able to figure out which two wires on the plug close the relay... That's how my old car worked anyway, of course I could be wrong.

Ahh yes, good ole Rusty Jones. My 81 rabbitt was rusty jonesed. I had to pop rivet on a ton of sheet metal to keep my feet dry. Yea, they use waayy to much salt on the roads around here, cars will turn white after a good snowfall, and not from the snow.

Covered under the recall! No kidding, I know at least Jeep offers a dealer undercoating for some extra $$, maybe subaru does the same? About all that's undercoated on mine is the wheel wells with that rubbery type stuff. Maybe I'll do some additional coating myself, anyone have recommendations? I think I have a can or two of 3m rubberized undercoat, not sure if it's still good though...

I'm not very familiar with synthetic tranny oil, but you might want to glance over this thread. Not sure if you need some type of friction modifier or not... of course everyone has some different thoughts on this. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4160

Congrats on the buy, I have a similiar '02 OBW, no cold weather package though (darnit!!). When I was at the dealer having some other stuff done they told me I needed the undercoating. Apparently part of the rear subframe will rust and possibly break due to the salts and other crud on the road in the northeast. Yikes! You can do a search here, it was listed for mine: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm All they'll do is clean up the rear subframe and control arms and soak 'em with some undercoating. Which, by the way, smells pretty strong when it gets on the exhaust and heats up!

Hmm, from the numbers I found, the Z is actually about 200 lbs heavier.

I use to look at alldata.com, but it appears that it's not as updated, doesn't give you as much detail nhtsa site (unless you have a login I think). nhtsa has TSB's too, there should be a sperate link. Speaking of recalls, anyone have the recall done for the breakage of the rear subframe because of rust? Not sure if it's a new one or not. But my '02 OBW just got it done, that undercoating sure smells strong, and i think they got some on the exhaust, guess it will burn off.

That one looks pretty good ferret. I was also looking at picking up one that goes to a laptop so you can do realtime type diags. This one also looks pretty cool: http://scantool.net/ but you need to get each different one..

Pretty sure that the parking light's flashing is new for '03 along with the change from "honk" to "chirp". For '99 you should be able to unlock all the doors and hold down both buttons, you'll year one honk, and then it won't make noise when you lock/unlock. (unless a door is ajar i think..). I definately wish the lights flashed in no-honk mode, I have to listen for the locks to click now, but it's better than the darn horn. --Nick

The purge control solenoid controls the passing of gas vapours to the charcoal canister. If it goes bad (stuck closed) it could result in hard starts, you can also get fuel odors since the canister can become saturated since the fumes won't be drawn into the motor for combustion. Should only be 2 hoses and maybe a wire or two, not sure where it would be though..

I'm curious to see if anyone knows of a solution to this, my '02 outback (2.5, man) likes to emit a pretty quite "pop", almost like a backfire, most often when upshifting from 1>2 or 2>3. Did a little reading, maybe just some unburned fuel being dragged into the exhaust manifold? It's nothing I can't live with, doesn't always happen, just a bit curious if others have any suggestions, thanks.

Let's see mine measures about: 42in. from front to back 22in, down from the front, is where it fans out top part is 41in. accross bottom part is 52in. accross Comes in pretty hand, don't have to worry about spills. But things do slide around a bit! --Nick