nickb21

Glad to hear it! What did you end up replacing, the VSS in the trans?

Does the speedo work? Might wanna just double check the wires/harness make sure nothing is cut.

Any codes in the ECU? Sounds like it's in a limp/fail-safe mode, I've only experienced this when I had a VSS issue. Welcome aboard, I'm sure someone else will chime in shortly!

Are you sure those rims will fit without rubbing the outside fender? I suppose they will if you go pretty narrow and pretty low-profile. Stock offset is around 53mm (give or take a mm or 2). I think the 17's on impreza's (and many subaru's) are only 7" wide. That means you'll be sticking out a whole bunch. You might tray over at Nabisco... I mean www.nasioc.com, they are much more geared to Impreza's and will probably have a FAQ on this exact question. EDIT: FAQs- http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2208775 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=335263 Looks like you might be able to roll with 225-245/40's. Maybe. Do some reading there, might need to roll the fenders. Good luck!

I've towed around 1500 lbs with my 2.5 OB 5MT a few times. I was surprised at how easily it pulled, even up to interstate speeds (60-70mph), but I didn't put on more than 100 miles. If I were you I would invest in a trans cooler, and do some basic prep; coolant system and trans fluid replacement. I guess you shouldn't neglect brake condition either! At 1200 out of 2000lbs max, I'd say that's a good comfort zone, I wouldn't want to go much higher (wet weight?) with the time + distance.

2000 (at least Legacy L's) had the pcv in the intake, not that it helps you. Isn't the intake threaded anyway with the hose nipple, maybe same threads as as the pcv?

I think you're suppose to replace (bleed) the brake fluid every 60k/5years (or something like that). If the fluid is dark, it would be a good idea to replace it with new fluid (dot 3/4 from an un-opened container). Easy to do with 2-people, or grab some speedbleeders, or a mityvac, and do it yourself.

Coming from the guy who has 2 stereo's!

Ok, updates. Most of the work is done. What. A. Day. I'll post pics and a write-up at some point, added a few things to the project which didn't help my timeline. Currently only 1 major issue. I decided to pickup a new donut, the old one wasn't in awful shape, but I thought it made sense. I also picked up a spring-bolt kit. Problem: I have the spring bolts (NAPA/Walker 5192 or something like that) as tight as they will go, and there is still an exhaust leak around the donut. Donut is centered. It is a NAPA donut (no good?). I'll measure in the morn, but there is prob 1/4" between the cat flange and the mid-pipe flange. Never ends!!

Yup, only RCA's, that sucks. BUT - I glanced at Fairtax's link real quick - they are converters to make high level (your HU output) into low level RCA outs. Then, as he said, you could put a Y and have both RCA's now go into the amp...

Yea, you're right, figured that is where I would end up. Ah well, at least my local OE parts source is reasonably priced. Tip doesn't look yellow, at least to my eye, but I would hate to 1/2 rump roast this and have it blow out of the cat. I'll post some more pics later of the project. Thanks!

Google lists this model: XM-GTX6040, any chance that's the one? Noooo idea if it's the right one. (This one does have high level in's, and the manual doesn't seem to say you can't use both...)

What amp are you using? I kinda read into your post the the amp has 2 input connections, 1- rca in's (aka low level), and 1- speaker level input from the OE HU (aka high level, usually 4 pins, Left+/Left-, Right+/Right-).

Thanks for the info! I had decided to just re-use the A/F sensor, but it was a major PITA to get out of the original cat. Apparently 11 years of NJ salt doesn't help. I had been spraying it with PB blaster for about 2-days, hit it with my MAPP torch, and used a 1/2" O2 socket with a 2' breaker bar... Well here are the results, ripped some of the threads totally off. It'll sort of start to thread into the new cat, but I imagine it's just gonna cross-thread the heck out of everything (if it even goes in). Any way to fix this, or am I getting a new sensor now anyway?

Ugh, what I'm saying is; I can't read. Thought you already tried and it didn't work, oops! I don't see any reason why your proposal wouldn't work. As long as the JVC is on (to turn the amp on), the amp should accept signals from both JVC and HU - at the same time too, fun! I was previously thinking that the amp was prioritizing inputs (low level rca's first), guess we'll soon find out. You can try playing Dark Side and Wizard of Oz (audio only, boo) at the same time!

Good lord, what kind of monster have you created?!? Is the JVC unit wired to the remote turn on for the amp? Maybe the amp only supports high or low level input not both, have you tried keeping the amp on and pulling the low-level rca's?

Good call. Would also match the 4AT. And make the price make more sense.

Wow, that's cheap. Even for that mileage (IMO). Would be nice to know what codes are setting the CEL, that would give you a good idea of how much more $ you'll need to put in. Scary that they replaced 800$ in sensors, if I had to guess I would say it's emissions related - does CO do emissions testing/inspection? Keep in mind you'll be due for a t-belt service in the next 10-15k. P.S. Thought these were 5EAT's by this gen (Ad says 4AT)? PPS. "This has been a great commuter car for me for 10 years" - did I take that long of a nap? What year is it?

+1000 Last year you could get a Fozzy XT w/manual was 2008. Then they went to the CUV aka "CRV/RAV4" body style. I suppose it's good that the quality, NVH is getting better and better, and there are modern premium features.

In case someone finds this thread. (from nasioc) Front flange (Y-pipe to front cat) bolts are: 44015AC000 (2pcs) & 902370010 (2pcs) Bolt is M10x40mm 1.25 pitch (guess length/pitch just have to be close, since it just goes into a matching nut on the Y flange) Off to fastenal.

Awesome, thanks! Definitely a bit confusing even when you exclude the H6's, seems every year + auto/manual has a different listing for sensors and cats for the same physical size (2 different ones listed for MY02). Some of which is apparently the "U5" emissions stuff. Good point, I do have the pigtail/wires for the rear O2, so I could solder/heat shrink 'em up. I'm back and forth on the A/F, looks like it'll be $100, I'll probably just bite the bullet. I've just started considering an upgrade to a newer OB, but would feel dumb for not replacing 1 sensor when it would be easy to do so. Now to finish sourcing bolts, anyone know off-hand what size bolts go through the end of the y-pipe and attach the cat section? Guess I should do spring bolts too. Thanks again!

I did some searching, but wasn't really finding the information I wanted, so I'm looking for a few opinions. Hopefully I won't catch too much flak, especially with all the related posts going on lately. Anyways; I picked up a new cat for my '02 OBW. It's nice, low mileage, and minimally rusty (wohoo NC). I cleaned it up and threw some high-temp paint on the flanges (the main reason I'm replacing my current one). The cat is off of an '05 Impreza 2.5, the sensor bungs are in the same places as my current cat. My current gas mileage is 'normal', hasn't changed much over the years, I average 25-27 depending on trip. (1-2 less in winter). My questions: Do I bother replacing the A/F sensor (front O2)? I'm thinking yes, with 180k it might be a bit lazy by now. If so I'm thinking that I should get the A/F sensor that matches my car (OE of course) since that's all pre-cat. (Oddly enough there are a half-dozen sensors listed for 00-04 models.) More importantly, I need to replace the rear O2, it is physically broken. It's a four wire unit. I was thinking of going with a Denso or Bosch 'direct-fit' piece. Any preference there? (I'll price an OE one as well). I'm also wondering if I should get a sensor spec'd for my car or for the Impreza. There are a bunch of cat part #'s listed between these models that are all the same physical dimensions, which makes me question sensor choice. What are your thoughts?

I didn't think they went to the 2 cats in the Y-pipe until MY2005, but maybe this was some kinda special end of year 2004 thing. My understanding was the only difference in CA vs federal was the cat type (at least the first cat being 'better' on CA-spec cars) and the rear O2 sensor location (back of front cat in CA-spec vs on the 2nd cat in federal). Might be helpful to verify the exhaust config visually if you can. +1 to what GG said, especially spark plugs, wires, air filter. How much $ are you looking to drop into a 200Kmi car? Aftermarket cats aren't really all that great quality wise, I've heard life expectancy can be as short as 2-3 years in rust belt states. I would throw a spacer (spark plug anti-fouler) on the rear O2 and see if that helps with the CEL. It's easy, cheap, and will last for years with no negative effects. You can get them at Autozone/NAPA ("Help!" brand).

I take it by your location that you're down in Oz? Do you know which engine your Forester has? We only got the EJ25 (2.5 litre) here in the states on that model year, I feel like you had other options, including a 2.0 non-turbo.

Some good points already stated. If you're looking to get top-price, definitely fix it. If you're looking to dump the car, leave it and knock some $ off the price (when negotiations come).