skingry
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Yeah, got it fixed. The side pipe was full of carbon and were the manifold passages. Fashioned a brush from a piece of steel cable and a long slender spring (sort of like a pipe snake). Cleaned out the passages and the pipe, engine full out stalled when I manually applied vacuum. A can of the spray Seafoam helps too (the one with the long squirt tube). You need to double check that the engine doesn't have a side pipe... and probably clean out the manifold passages. On a side note, I also replaced all of the hoses with new silicone ones when I bought the car. Parts were less than $30. Do one at a time, and follow the vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood, use logic, go slow, you'll be fine.
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GD, you're a life saver. Vice grips and a hammer and the pipe came right off. I've managed to get the EGR pipe cleaned out (it was really clogged up), and I'm pretty sure the passage is clean in the head (sprayed some aerosol Seafoam into the hole and it drained down quickly). However I am not sure the passages are clean in the intake manifold (the car still doesn't stumble or stall when I manually apply vacuum to the EGR valve). The best I could do was squirt some of the Seafoam into the passages and hope it was cleaned out. Is there some sort of cleaner that does a better job than others at liquifying carbon? Oven cleaner? Also, when vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, is it normal that the only thing that moves is the center post (and there by the actual passage that exhaust flows through is small)?
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Yeah, double and triple checked my timing. Set at 8 degrees BTDC (was at 25 degrees BTDC when I got it, how it even ran, I have no idea). The timing is verified during smog here in CA (the tech pulled out a timing light, had a little bit of trouble finding the timing marks, but I showed him how they are on the flywheel on older Subarus). The car doesn't even have a drop in RPM when I manually apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle (even after I cleaned it and verified it's operation), so I definitely know something is up with the system.
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I think I may have solved my own problem. What do you guys think: a piece of steel cable with some short pieces of copper filament soldered on the end to make a bit of a brush. Put the non-brush end of the cable in a drill and then feed the brush end down into the EGR pipe. Leave the valve off, blip the engine a couple of times to blow the carbon bits out. With that said... does anyone have a spare EGR pipe on hand they would sell me if I decide to go medieval with a hack saw, a 17mm socket, and a torch?
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So, I've failed smog twice... and I'm getting frustrated. Some background: Car: 83 GL, EA81 w/ ~343k miles, California model, Hitachi feedback carb (can't replace it with a Weber, because I live in California ), all new vacuum hoses, new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new CARB spec catalytic converter, new Denso O2 sensor. De-carboned the engine with plenty of distilled water trickled into the intake... So here are the results (top line is 15mph, bottom line is 25mph): First test: HC: MAX - 152, MEAS - 15 MAX - 123, MEAS - 9 CO: MAX - 1.05, MEAS - 0.12 MAX - 0.85, MEAS - 0.12 NO: MAX - 1191, MEAS - 1690 MAX - 1021, MEAS - 2181 Second test: HC: MAX - 152, MEAS - 0 MAX - 123, MEAS - 0 CO: MAX - 1.05, MEAS - 0.11 MAX - 0.85, MEAS - 0.10 NO: MAX - 1191, MEAS - 2624 MAX - 1021, MEAS - 2401 All sources point to the EGR (or at least to me... if something else stand outs, let me know). So, I pulled the valve and cleaned it out with a dental pick and some B-12. The diaphragm is good and holds vacuum. Now, when I manually apply vacuum to valve, the engine does nothing. No stumble, no stall, no nothing. This leaves the EGR pipe, but that SOB is a PITA and doesn't want to budge (not to mention my busted knuckles). Any pointers removing it... or maybe cleaning it in place (pipe cleaner)?
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I used to live in a high crime area in Atlanta where this sort of thing would happen on the regular. Any locking cap will work, all you have to do is make your car one iota more difficult than the next car that doesn't have a locking cap. Trust me, thieves are the lazy... if they weren't they'd get what they wanted in an honest fashion.
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New washer pump and spark plug wires. Easy morning.
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Sweet sunroof.
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EA82 Overheating, have done LOTS with zero results
skingry replied to suprunner's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
A visual inspection of the tops of the pistons (with the spark plugs removed) will tell you if you have a bad head gasket (a clean piston top is indicative of water making it's way into the cylinder). When you had the flush and fill, did the mechanic back flush the radiator (ie. run hot water through it backwards)? I've had many a radiator and heater core that have been clogged with multiple years worth of sediment that have been fixed by back flushing. -
Replaced the oil pump... and snapped a bolt. My heart skipped a beat, but luckily it was easy to remove the pieces. Quick run to the HW store to grab some new 8.9 grade bolts, and the new pump slid right in. But then... didn't realize you have to prime an oil pump (nothing in the Haynes or FSM ) Figured it out real quick (under 30 seconds) when I started the car and the oil pressure sat at zero. Pulled the pump, filled the new filter with oil, made an oil bath and submerged the pump, primed it, and then reinstalled it all. Not a fun work day. Too much stress.
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Fourth pic shows the air suction valve, in spite of what you may read on the board this is integral to keeping your car running well unless it has modern catalytic converters installed.
Fifth and final pic shows the original vacuum layout, this thing is pretty far from accurate for my car, but then again my car has had the hood replaced (and the diagram is on the hood).
Let me know your email address and I'll email you the pages from the FSM with further details.
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Sorry it took me so long, but here is the link to the photo album: http://imgur.com/a/9Xx7f#0
The first pic (Throttle Plate), show three lines. The black one on the right eventually feeds to the EGR valve, the red one feeds to the distributor vacuum port, and the blue one eventually leads to vacuum switch II.
The second pic shows the duty solenoids (they control the air fuel mix via bleeds), along with the surge tank and aux air filter. All of this stuff is pretty important if your car has it (only 2wd and California models do).
The third pic shows a detail of the vacuum switches, again, pretty important stuff for emissions if your car has it.
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Well I managed to come up with another thermo vacuum valve. However, I need some help with vacuum lines in general. I thought I labeled things pretty well when I pulled the engine, but I have some mystery tubing, etc. I'd like to see what a minimalist vacuum system would be. So, photos and diagrams would help. I'm going to the parts store for tubing, plugs, and what not.
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The Awesome Older Generation Picture Thread
skingry replied to 6 Star's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's for A/C or transmission oil cooler.
