NorthWet

Again, I hope I am remembering the right piece of equipment... : Fuel goes into one side of a circular track which has a small ball (plastic?) that can roll around track. As fuel enters track it pushes ball around track, fuel exits through another hole in track. There is an LED and a phototransistor, one above and one below the track and looking through windows on a portion of the track... ball goes past and interrupts LED signal to detector. Primitive CPU counts the pulses, applies appropriate multiplier, and voila! GPH!!! Simple...

I was going to say that I have had GM alternators that soft-failed, had lower than normal output voltage but no weirdness like drawing battery down. But he says alt "tested good", as did the battery... not sure what test or how an under-voltage battery can test good. :-\ But I know that I have chased problems around before deciding on the obvious (obvious for me 'cuz had 2 previous similar failures ).

Pretty cool! Uses an SU carburetor (Japanese manufacturer?). Don't think that SU could handle the airflow... our '67 Datsun 1600 had a pair. Also, pic#7 in your gallery is a fuel flow meter, if my swisscheese memory is working right. back in the early '80s I had one of those as part of a "car computer" setup. Good Luck! Kind of wish now that my daughter had opted for WWU instead of CWU!

What kind of reading do you get right off of the alternator? I can't think of anything special, and the only troubles that I have had so far have been with major wires: Power and ground back to the starter. Probably those two, the ground wire on the alt itself, and maybe the ground between the passenger head and the chassis? And don't forget the connection between the cables and the battery posts themselves. Guess I've been too lucky so far...

I'd put SOMETHING on the end just to cut down on the "farting in a sewer pipe" sound of a straight pipe. Don't know... I'lll have to ask the wife when she gets home.

I'll have to check around town... As far as mufflers, loud does not equal power and vice versa. You can still get reasonable quiet and good flow. Just requires good engineering and the desire to be quiet. (Quiet does not sell to the go fast crowd.) Good design, large internal volume small multiple outlets. Check out a muffler on a Mercedes, Lexus, or similar vehicle.

I don' thave the Factory Service Manual (FSM) volume for the electricals (bummer all around!) but I do have a Chilton's (POS, in my experience). It has a circuit diagram for the blower motor, but just for 90-92 Loyale. Should be close but can't be sure. If you are interested I can email it to you. Current format (full-page 300dpi BMP) is around 850KB. I can make it smaller if need be.

If you give me some specifics, might get you a wiring diagram. DL, GL, GL-10? Carb, SPFI, MPFI and/or turbo? Haven't looked at my varied manuals yet to tell what's important...

Is that interior brown? I could use some front door cards and radio console... I got a soccer game to coach and a job fair to waste my time at, but hopefully be there by the afternoon.

The following rant is NOT directed at the poster, but rather at some commonly held beliefs, which, I feel, the poster is wisely trying to disregard. WARNING! Heresy follows: Maybe I am ignorant (probably ) or decades behind the times (certainly! ), but why do so many people think that back pressure is needed for anything, or that what is done beyind the firewall has anything to do with scavenging? Literally been decades since I ran the formulas, but as I recall any exhaust pulse effects reflected to the valve pretty much become a non-issue at lengths greater than about 3 feet. (Unless we are talking industrial (SLOW) engines). The first turn or change of pipe diameter muddies up the effect, as does every subsequent one. Hit a turbo or cat or muffler, and that is it. After that, anything that is not more restrictive should be fine. WWII V12 plane engines usually ran with 18"-ish exhaust stacks... And backpressure is not essential, other than a given design expects a certain level of backpressure to work with it. Change the backpressure and some other aspect of engine tuning should be addressed (e.g. cam timing or fuel mixture). So, IMHO , run port-sized pipe to the first major reflection point or 3 ft, whichever comes first, and then as big as you want back to the rear. I like things quiet in my senility, so I would want a good quality, LARGE VOLUME muffler, with 2 or more smaller outlets. End of rant. Thank you for not burning me alive. Please???

Gee, so if/when I build my turbo-on-SPFI-block, all I have to do is last more than 20k to be considered a success?

Trust him; I would. If it is a complete power cut, not likely fuel on a carb'd car. Coil heating up under load causing a fault, takes some time to cool back down.

As far as (I think) I know, you plug the connectors together, start the car and do the timing thing. Regarding the idle switch, I put the info in quotes to denote it as "raw rumor". Sort of like raw data, but don't know if it is true... ) I have absolutely no idea beyond the words in the quote and that I have only heard it in connection with SPFI cars. BTW, I don't recall whether you said if your car was carb, SPFI, MPFI and/or turbo.

Yeah, my local NAPA machinist once gave my EA81 flywheel I nice dish-shaped resurface. Then, while trying to correct his error, he decided to change the distance between clutch surface and PPLate mount surface!? "Why fix it when you can replace it?" Gee, with a broken bolt that you can see both ends of (pinch bolts), I wouldn't be worried going after them, and I am just a backyard hack and not a "machinist". Worst case of being chicken, I would just progressively drill the sucker out and run a tap through it to clear the remnants. Can't understand why a "machinist" wouldn't want to touch them. BTW, I found an old parts store with machinist who probably worked on flat-head Fords when they were new. Still has reasonable prices, too. Good Luck!

Pcv?

Hey! I qualified it by saying "most people"... I'm not sure that anybody here falls into that category! My 510 runs about 4 degrees negative camber at its rear, and one day I cranked in about 3 degrees up front (instead of near neutral), took it for a drive in the twisties, and nearly swapped ends in the first good turn. Really surprising how much difference a little negative camber can make.

I may have been too scatter-brained to think through my response, but you are just SICK and CRUEL!!! Torture puppies and blondes, do you?

Ummmm... does this mean that you have NOT been tightening the tensioner in the "totally loose" position while slipping on the t-belt? :-\ And as far as "lame", we all had our first one, too. I was even lamer because I had no guidance beyond Haynes.

Engineers give positive camber on purpose to reduce tire wear. Any loading on tire (e.g. bump) causes tire to go towards negative camber, so positive camber helps equalize wear. Most people don't corner that much for it to affect wear.

I was going to suggest either weak shocks causing wheel bounce. or u-joint on driveshaft... last seems unlikely being FWD! How did tire wear on old tires look? Any weird scalloping or diagonal barring?

Sorry, brain-fart. You are right about the gears, of course. As far as Search, I was in charge of programming a search engine for 10 years. I STILL have not figured out how to get this one to work beyond simple-term search.

Gee, I usually use a breaker bar to set my alt-belt tension... can i do that with the belt? Just kidding. I agree with your comment about not needing any special tools. But sometimes "by the book" is a good way to do the first one... then you can figure out what is BS!

It is a chain (*EDIT - This is wrong: its gears. See next post. END EDIT*), as is the later/larger EA81. Timing belts are used on the EA82 engines and newer. This is one reason why the ea71/81s are liked by people who need rugged engines... no belt worries.

I am the WRONG person to be answering this, as I only learned about these connectors a couple of months ago... but: On at least the MFPI and (I have been told the SPFI; don't know about carb'd) there are two mating one-pin connectors that have to be connected in order to check/set initial timing. These connectors are supposed to be green, though their wires are different colors, and they are normally NOT connected. On the MPFI, the connectors are under the steering wheel near the bottom of the trim pieces. I have heard that on the SPFI that they are in the engine compartment. I have also heard that on the SPFI you are supposed to "set the Idle Switch to "on"". This exhuasts my lore/knowledge about these connectors. :-\

If its only during WOT (or at least high load), I wouldn't expect vac advance unless linkage is binding. Ruptured diaphram should give low-end probs.