NorthWet

Water injection is a band-aid (tm ) in another way: It doesn't really change the total "heat" energy in the intake charge, it just stores and/or converts the form of it. If it stays in liquid form, its ability to absorb energy is limited (1 cal/G/degC), so it would take an awful lot to lower the intake charge temp significantly. If you get it to phase-change to steam, than it can absorb much more (11Kcal(?)/g... can't remember if this value is for fusion or vaporization, but both are in same ball park) Significantly lowering charge temp... BUT at the expense of volumetric efficency. The charge temp is lowered, but you get less charge in. Either way, you don't get the amount of intake charge that you would with an intercooler. Now if you ran an intercooler AND had a water injection system that sprayed in such a way that the majority of water was still atomized but not vaporized at the time of ignition... But as Russ pointed out, still subject to clogs, empty tanks, and mischief if it is relied upon to prevent abnormal combustion. There are devices known as vacuum-breaks (anti-backflow) that can be had for larger pipes (domestic water supply). If one could be found/made for the size line that we are talking about here, it would minimize/eliminate the possibility of hydrolock.

Sounds like a good plan. Wouldn't work for me, though. Couldn't find a couple people willing to help me by standing around! Good luck.

Regarding your questions about my method of using chain and bolts to imobilize flywheel-end of crank, as in all things you need to be careful and use common sense. Make sure the bolts are screwed in sufficiently (I would suggest to a depth at least twice the bolt diameter), and you may want to use "sacrificial bolts", ones that will never see use again for flywheel mounting. I make sure ot the former and don't usually bother with the latter, but I try to be careful about stresses and check over the bolts afterwards for marring/bends. As far as sticking stuff into the cylinder, I have never liked that idea. It reminds me of the advice of never sticking anything into your ear that is sharper than your elbow. Regardless of what you are using, the pressures will be uneven, and you ARE sticking foreign objects into YOUR engineering marvel. I have seen the advice about a stick for several decades, think that potential to damage piston and sparkplug hole far outways any advantages in anything other than emergency situation. IMHO... If you must stick somthing in the cylinder that FHI never intended, how about just using plain-ol' engine oil??? Pour a few ounces of oil into spark plug hole with piston coming up on compression stroke, screw in an old sparkplug, turn crank 'til hydrolock occurs. Afterwards, remove plug and drain using most any method your heart desires. I personally like cranking engine with plug out... pretty spray!!! LOL When you are done, no scratches, dents, stress risers in piston crown, or debris in cylinder. Another $.02 of mine...

YIKES!!! What a bad time for a typo to creep in! ---> PARK <--- It should have read "... and then back to PARK,..." ATF levels are checked like Legacy777 said, but check is done in PARK for safety reasons. Pat

So how exactly does the "Hill-Holder Clutch" work on an AT? :-\

How about running a chain from a bellhousing bolthole, with bolt through chainlink, to crankshaft bolthole, with bolt through chainlink? (Put chain under tension between bolts, holds crank still.) Its a little backwards from how I do clutch/flywheel removal, but still should work.

I looked into misters (for two greatly different purposes) a couple of years ago. The physics of misters is a little different than you might think. What you really want is for the water stream to have to turn (like 90deg.), and the DEPTH of the space behind the orifice affects how well it aerosols. To make this less vague, imagine a metal tube being fed water at one end and capped at the other. Somewhere along its length you drill an orifice. Given a tube diameter big enough to drill, all you will get out of the orifice is a stream. Now, if you squish the tubing so that the orifice is on one of the flattened faces and the distance to the wall opposite is thus reduced, then the stream will start to atomize. At least to a certain point, the more the distance to the far wall is reduced the greater the degree of atomization. Also, if I recall, atomization increases as pressure increases. If you would like, I might be able to dig up links to the site with this info. Just might take a while. As far as what water injection is supposed to do, it is all pretty much about charge cooling. It was used extensively in WWII supercharged plane engines, such as the Mustang. In those apps, they used a methanol mix to further cool and fuel. As far as incompressibility, the water is supposed to be atomized and/or phase-changed. And as was pointed out, the amount of liquid compared to compressible gas is (or should be! ) quite small. You would run into drowning the plugs (as sounds like was happening) before you should worry about hydrolock. IMO, Pogue carbs were just voodoo. Made somebody some money, just not anybody who bought into it.

GG, EA81 = pushrod, no hydraulic lash adjusters. Though I did read a post recently that said some later EA81s had hydraulic lifters, but I do not know.

PLEASE make sure that you read some of the info about this from people who have actually done this. I was just predigesting the info that I have seen and have not tried them myself. I have run some ATF before, but not for this problem. I also don't know if I would wait until a fresh oil change. Haven't thought through the pros/cons. I imagine the best thing would be to do an oil/filter change with additive and another oil/filter change soon thereafter. One caveat is that any of these oil system cleaners could have the adverse affect of cleaning crud that is keeping you engine form leaking (more) oil. Forewarned is forearmed... with a drip pan.

How long have these engines been sitting? Some of the leak-down may be from parts not sealing well due to lack of use (gummy, not well oiled, whatever). My EA81 has a valve that sticks a little in its guide if it sits too long. If you have access to an engine hoist, I would say go for it! and just swap engines. Not that hard, really. Overheating could just be the radiator dying of old age, or a couple of other things in the cooling deaprtment. What constitutes "water in the oil"? Icky mayonnaise on the dip-stick or when you drain the oil, or just some crud on the filler cap? (Or like when my ea81 lost its HG and the oil level rose several quarts!)

This is a common (and oft asked about) problem. If you use the SEARCH function, get lucky using the right search term, and are a little patient then you can find many threads on this topic. The EA82-series engine in your car has hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs), basically rocker pivots that maintain zero-lash through oil pressure. There seems to be several common causes for the ticking. One seems to be gunk in the HLA, either varnish on the sliding parts are puddled crud in the bottom of the HLA. This problem might be remedied by either using "Marvel Mystery Oil" (aka MMO), commonly mentioned is 8-oz added to the regular engine oil. Another suggested remedy is some automatic transmission fluid (ATF) added to the oil. Sometimes the cure is to remove and thoroughly clean the insides of the HLA. Another common cause is an internally "leaking" oil pump. The posts I have read do not make it clear whether the problem is just drop in flow/pressure or actually sucking air into the oil stream. Either case, the cure is to do an oil pump reseal. Plenty of posts on how to do this. If these don't work, it could be that just old-age, and requires replacing the HLAs. Good luck, and let us know if you need more help finding the appropriate threads. I would point you at a couple, but I gotta go coach a game! Pat

Rallyruss, first off I agree that straightening out the cat situation (either install both cats or one good 3-way) is the best way to go. But I do have a question regarding red/ox cat duties. I had rump roast-u-me-d that the oxidation cat was responsible for oxidizing the HC and CO, and that the reduction cat was responsible for reducing NOx. IF this is accurate (HS Chem and intro of Lambda systems was a LONG time ago! ), wouldn't the oxidation cat be the one of importance to this situation? Am I confused? (again??l) IMHO, still should be done right, if practical.

Oh, Yeah? Then what is this: Well, it IS kinda older, sorta. It should fit my wife's car... shipping would kinda kill my savings, me thinks.

I apologize, and bow and scrape and beg forgiveness for my hubris . All of the externals that I have worked on have had the t-connector (brush and y-center), and all of the externals have been just 1 ground and 1 power wire. Haven't had to futz much with my soob alts (yet), and I a**umed. (Please note that I tried to CYA with my comment about "connector" .) Now, if you will excuse me, I need to pull my foot from my mouth so I can finish installing wife's struts.

The '87 that I have home now sure appears to be external regulator (as judged by the connectors at alternator), as does my '85. I don't have the FSM volume with electricals, but a Chilton's (I hate Chilton's!!! ) also claims that they are external. Either I am wrong (has happened once or twice! ) or they may have a mid-year change? Dunno, whatever... still might be worth looking at.

How about the voltage regulator? This is assuming that yours does not have an internal regulator... my '87 appears to have separate regulator. Also, do you have anything drawing electricity while the car is off? (Or were you driving regularly as opposed to the car sitting for a week and not starting.) Are you sure that the battery is dead, or does it just not turn the starter? Checking connections as you planned sounds like a good plan, especially the grounding wires. I tried to jump start from another car once and it wouldn't work until I ran BOTH power and ground cable to the starter. Replaced cables and cleaned all connections and car started without a problem. Good luck!

LUCAS! Prince of Darkness!!! I used to own (and fix) a '58 Triumph. I know all about Lucas electricals!

I represent that remark! Funny thing about Search... I worked as a programmer for 10 years with a company whose service was to allow professionals to search the largest single collection of information in the world (at least in the private sector! ) My job was the internals of the search engine. After a month+ of trying to use search, I have not figured out how to make search work on multiple terms (e.g. "air suspension"). Now, granted, I have not spent the time to look on the site for how to use the search function properly (inate laziness), and this is my first experience in using a message board, but STILL I feel that I am at least average as far as what newcomers to this board will be like. It may get tiring answering the same questions over and over, but I think it is also a disservice to flame neophytes by telling them to go search. To many, especially those that turned here because something handgrenaded and they are desperate, it is like telling them (me! ) to do brain surgery. Where do you start? Anyway, I am very grateful to those who have helped me out, and I feel it is an obligation to pass on any help that I feel qualified to offer. After checking out some other boards, I MUCH prefer USMB because of the generally mature and helpful nature of the community. Others are more like adolescent urinating contests. I have not gotten a good enough "feel" for the organization of this board to offer any opinion where stuff should go, so I won't. I DO think that it would be nice if more of the general, sometimes hard-earned!!!, knowledge from this community be placed somewhere useful and easily accessible, as it deserves to be. I am willing to help organize/type/whatever. Thank you all for all that you do. Pat

Folks, could this be a spider manifold? Is there another manifold variant? Anybody got a pic of where the CTS is on a Spider manifold?

All pages sent out to the 3 known requestors. Please let me know if these do or don't work for you. TTFN! Pat

My Advice: Do yourself a favor and make sure you can remove the FILL plug before you remove the DRAIN. I had my Datsun 510 (same diff) done at a Goodyear, they got drain undone, drain fluid, then OOPSS!!! couldn't get the fill loose. Eight hours later they finally got my drain and fill done. (I didn't do it myself for similar fears of having trouble with the plugs on my then 23-yr-old diff and 15-yr-old tranny. Maybe better yet, let a pro swear at it the first time!

My advice, don't mess with the intake. There aren't that many connections that you have to deal with, and resealing the intake can be a pain. The charcoal canister can pull with the engine, the fuel supply/return lines need disconnecting, and the engine wiring is easily disconnected. The only thing to think about is the A/C compressor, which you should unbolt from the engine (lines still attached!!!) and lay aside where the battery was. After you do this a couple dozen times you can almost do it in your sleep. (When will the nightmares end!?)

Just got a confirmation that they went through, and sounded like they were legible. Loading up first 2 pages to send as I type. This is for 1982-1983, so if you need something different let me know before I get too far. You guys will now owe somebody else 30 minutes of your time! (And, naw, I don't do IM. Too much of a stick-in-the-mud asocial dinosaur to enjoy chatting on-line with people I don't know. Wait a moment...?!) Pat

As soon as I get positive feedback that my previous email worked. Unless you are going to be around and give me quick feedback. Wouldn't worry me much, but Yahoo! is slow sucking up 8.5MB of files (2 pages. I also want to know if I need to do a better and/or higher-res scan. Pat

I will disagree. All military action is the execution of politics through an application of force. Please understand that I will shed no tear for the targeted person. However, the distinction between terrorist and patriot is often which side of the issue that you live, or sometimes, merely political convenience. Every country on this planet at one time or another has been on both sides of this distinction.