NorthWet

Barracuda/VampErik: Just sent pages 1 and 2 (of 6) to you both. Let me know if it worked OK and if they are readable enough. I will go ahead and send the other 4 pages in case all is OK. Pat

Sure. I will give it a try in the (later) morning. How big is your inbox? Or is qmail a POP3? g'night! Pat

Good news, and not so good news. Good: I scanned the 6 pages of the wiring diagram. Not So Good: There are 6 pages. And I scanned them at 600dpi, which makes each of them about 3-4MB. I can cut the resolution back to maybe 150-200dpi without losing too much, but we are still talking about 400-500K for each of the images. I have a broadband connection, but use Yahoo mail, which limits me somewhat to max file size and total attachment size. I can get around that by multiple mailings. So, assuming that you still need this, how would you like it? Do you want all pages now or just in the area that is messed up? Lower resolution images? Let me know. Pat

I am going to make the assumption (yeah!) that you have the standard intake and not the spider, or something different from mine. Asuming that I attached the pic ok, what you are looking for is the sensor UNDER all the stuff in the BLUE circle (white circle is knock sensor... reused image!). It is just to the passenger side of the coolant crossover on the intake; or it is just in front of the drivers-side-most (?) bolt on the turbo, and almost directly below the PCV piping.

I'm a little far away, too. But the good news is that it is fairly easy...especially after doing (and redoing ) it a dozen times.

Well, I think that most of the denizens of this board feel as do you that any manual is preferable to an automatic. Add an automatic to a vehicle with limited power reserves and even fewer enthusiasts will be interested. BTW, does your car have a turbo? It makes the autos easier to live with... Something pretty close to year and type as yours will probably give the fewest hassels, but not so critical with just a transmission change. I believe that there is a difference in driveshaft length between body styles (i.e. sedan, wagon), so might want to stay with same body style. I'm sure that any real guru who is paying attention will correct me here if I am incorrect. I just picked up a working parts car (bad clutch and damage while stored) for $100. My wife will soon be driving a GL-10 that I got for $350 (auto-trans needed attention and air suspension clapped-out). I found these cars on craigslist.com. I think that most of these older subes are at a point where any required (professional) maintenance costs more than KellyBB says they are worth. (Professional repairs on my wife's car-to-be would have ran around $2k-3k.) Anyways, good deals to be had. Somebody else might be able to point you at a good thread for how to do this, but basically if donor car is similar then it should be pretty straightforward (except, as mentioned, maybe needing to drill holes for rear differential mounting).

Oddcomp thinks that his MARGINAL:grin: efforts to increase the umph in his turbowagon caused a massive cascading disintegration of his automatic from the BRUTE POWER!!!!. Whereas MY excuse for letting a twagon sit unfixed for a while is being lazy and broke. Ok, mostly lazy... Just kidding, oddcomp. No, really!

I have a Haynes Manual schematic that I could copy if needed. Actually, I have an extra Haynes manual (1600 & 1800, 1980-1988) if you need one.

Duck and cover!!! Incoming auto-trans hate-mail! I will leave the specific answer to your question to those who know what they are talking about (or at least believe they do!). But as far as I can tell, with a little work you can transform your Subaru into almost any variant. Subaru offered a 4wd 3-speed auto for your car (aka - 3AT), and later offered an electronically controlled 4-speed (aka 4EAT). (Maybe others, I am not an expert.) With the right parts the 4wd 3AT should bolt right in... the real gurus will tell you what you need, but it does require quite a few parts from the junkyard/donor car. You are likely to be told how unreliable the soob auto-trans are, that they are a weak link in an otherwise durable range of cars. The big problem with the autos seems to be maintenance, or lack of it. Regular fluid changes are critical and overheating the transmission fluid is common. It has a governor (that tells it what road your speed is) that is a combination mechanical/hydraulic unit that is the Achilles Heel of the tranny. It gums up, it develops burrs on its sliding surfaces, and needs a little special attention. If your car doesn't shift right, it is likely bad/low fluid or the governor. That being said, I have gotten auto-trans for my daughter and my wife. It doesn't matter much to them how much time I spend on maintenance, as long as the car works. Welcome to the board. I was pretty clueless until listening to these folks. And, by the way, do you have air suspension on your GL-10? If so, be prepared for it to leak if it isn't already. Remedy for that seems replacing with regular springs... plenty of info here on that, too.

Well, I don't think that they are really less reliable, just pretty intolerant of cooling problems. (BIG surprise!) The three things that you have to remember are: 1) Cooling 2) Cooling 3) Cooling Well, and good clean oil, too. If you don't already have a 2-row radiator then think of getting one. A broken rubber coolant hose can really ruin your month, so check them out. The hoses that run coolant to/from the turbo center section experiences REALLY high temperatures (I can hear water boiling off in mine after shutdown, even after waiting a minute for spool-down/cool-down. From what I hear, these hoses are supposed to be special silicone hoses; my used car came with regular heater-type hose, which crumbled on my wife and took the engine with it. A couple other hoses need close looking at, as they are hard to service and often leak, like the one that runs under the intake manifold. Check your hoses!

Just got back from returning the dolly. Pointed out the cracks to the rental guy. Happy wrenching! Pat

Thanks for the thanks. I have been there too, and but for the kindness of others might still be there! Anyways, seemed like a nice day for a drive, maybe get to see a mountain explode, and, besides, it was sort of on my way to get the car that I intended to tow... except it WAS in the opposite direction. I got to see a lot of I-5 (again), got to see the faces behind the typying of 2 members, and pick up a much-wanted busted crossover pipe (thanks ratty2austin!) I am home, finally, with my parking spaces overfilled and a tow dolly stuffed halfway under my truck, and my dinner is cooling. SSOOO... Later!!!

There are a couple forums for E12 Libero owners, though it seems that they are primarily German-language sites (and my daughter is not here to translate:-\). http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subarulibero/ http://www.subaru-community.net/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=20&CAT_ID=3&Forum_Title=Justy%2C+Libero%2C+etc.+Forum This site seems to have info, but again it is in German (amusing to let yahoo! translate the page:lol:): http://www.oldievan.de/html/libero_1992.html This will not help ectoraszeus, but info for the rest of us: http://www.klein-aber-fein.de/ralph/english/subaru.htm

PM'd you about how to reach me if you need to.

Do you have front row seats at your place? How about you throw a party and charge admission? Hey, if it would be easier to work on your subie at home, I might be talked into dropping down your way with a dolly. Trying to get one for this weekend so I can pick up a parts car... ya, know, the one with d/r 5speed?:-p Might be worth my time and gas in order to pick your brains later.

You folks no of a good, common, and reasonably priced seller of NGK's? I used to use them all of the time, but people 'round here look at me funny when I ask about them. (Funny... lots of Subarus around here, but NGKS???) Actually, I think C/S/K carries them, but want an arm and a leg for them.

How long have you had this clutch, how does it "feel" when engaging, and what did the whole set cost you (assuming you bought the set)?

'Cuda: I might be talked into being a delivery boy. Driving to Ellensburg, towing to Spo, same thing, right? Then the Spo crowd could pick away! I might be interested in the car, since I don't have a blue subie yet... but my wife is talking "intervention" regarding my hoarding. (Anyway, where am I goin' to put that new parts car AND the the funding car that I want?:-\)

Yeah, oddcomp, my thought was basically cowl induction, but a little less in-your-face (almost literally!) than what GM did. And I think that rallyruss' comment about trying to breathe water would also apply to a regular hood scoop or any other system open to weather. Definitely needs to be thought through to deal with water/debris, otherwise could do way more harm than good. And yeah, my bias is towards hard surfaces (I prefer lower over lift), so I don't often think about how to not suck mud into my engine. If I planned to go mudding, I would definitely use a K&N plus anything that would keep me getting mostly air. pwoens: changes of airflow cause either a positive or negative pressure, with a relative restriction (such as putting a windshield into the flow path coming off of the hood) causing the junction (between hood and windshield) to experience a positive pressure. Ventilation intakes take advantage of this. It is generally not much except at very high speed, but it is there. And drawing this air off helps reduce drag, but again not by much.

A thought... Anybody done, or seriously thought about, tapping into the base-of-windscreen ventilation plenum to get cold air? Still would have to do a little something to deal with the "water and crap" issue, but prob less so than with a scoop. You also get a minor benefit in that the window base area is a high pressure area. Benefit for old-fogeys is that it wouldn't need to look mod'ed.

Back in the '70s and '80s, K&Ns were popular amongst us murdercyclists on our Japanese 4-cylinders. Oiled gauze led to a lot of early rebuilds. We geniuses (geniux?) also replaced our fair-sized, common filter in a plenum with 4 individual smallish cones. But it was obvious to us that our engines made more power 'cuz we could hear them doing it! But really, seat-of-the-pants is no substitute for real engineering. And there is a reason why car manufacturers use paper filters. And only part of it is cuz they're cheap. I'm pretty sure that Porsche and Mercedes use paper filters.

Thanks, rallyruss. I like that approach to performance mods. I was thinking about going with a larger airbox (with correspondingly larger filter) and rerouting the air intake... not sure if through an enlarged fender opening or perhaps forward to cool air. Decent flowing 3-way cats aren't that expensive (at least not when one then talks about buying custom up/down pipes and aluminum fart-boxes). Question about the typical filter cone: Are these regular filter-paper or are they the oiled gauze type? If paper-type (similar material to stock), then they get trashed if they get wet/moist.

Hey Gary, I might have some interesting, or at least amusing, thoughts on how to deal with the radiator issue. One variation that I have been mulling over even involves a turbo...

Hey RX (or do I have to call you Dr.?:-\), if you do this all of the time does that mean you have a complete non-LSD 3.7 (or two) kicking around and under foot? I would be happy to remove one before you stub your toe... (I'd really like an LSD, put the empty mounts under my car tell me that beggars can't be choosers! And it is an automatic, so why bother (almost)?)

ectoraszeus... Roxtar's first couple of sentences were from a comedy movie "Austin Powers". He was trying to be funny, but I don't know if his humor "translates well" because humor often does not. But in reference to Roxtar's statement about the door placard... does anyone know if these are put on non-U.S.A. cars? Would a Japanese manufacturer put them on cars for sale in another market, such as Greece? I don't know, but suspect they might not.