NorthWet

Last time I priced a JDM EA82T was 3 or 4 years ago, but at that time they wanted $750 in Seattle area, couple hundred more than a regular EA82. The way JDM pricing works, it could be anything today and entirely different tomorrow. From everything I've heard, not really possible to change the headgasket in the car; not enough room between head and bodywork. My back wouldn't let me stoop over that long anyway; much simpler to pull the engine.

*edit*: I'd forgotten the title said "guru" when I wrote this. I do not qualify, but still think my comments are relevant.*end edit* I'm going to write a rant on this later, but for now I will mostly agree with All_talk. If you cut up your airbox you will increase the noise (I have an aversion to listen to a loud monotonic drone for 15-16 hours straight, but that is just me) and you will not be doing your engine any real good. Seems to me that improving the airbox and using a standardized filtration medium (replaceable at any walmart/napa/csk/whatever) makes more sense than drawing hot air though an overpriced cone. Again, personal preference, possibly influenced by the onset of old-timer's syndrome. As far as catalytic converters, I am against the continued practice of dumping what has become mature emissions control equipment. Instead of completely removing effective equipment, why not just bring it up to the New Millenium? Get a free-flowing 3-way catalyst to replace the 2 old-tech and cost-conscious cats. Better flow, probably better emission reduction, and the birds won't be croaking as you drive by. But of course maybe people enjoy their fancy fast cars smelling like a '60's pickup truck. Sorry, spent more than my alloted 2 cents.

All Japanese cars are interesting, especially the ones in the 60's and 70's. Depends on who the manufacturer decided to rip-off... er, emulate. 60's Datsuns borrowed so much from British Leyland (MG, et al) that some of the parts interchange. My '71 Datsun 510 looks really nice on Corvair wheels, and the 4-bolt z-car wheels all fit it, too. Too bad Subaru decided to use such an offbeat bolt pattern.

Northguy, the window I am replacing is glued to the side of the body and doesn't move. No gasket, no move, just glued in place. Ok, I did ask a hypothetical question about a door window... I had to reattach the windows on a Hyundai (not mine, honest!!!) once, and I was trying to hunt down the channel rubber. 9 out of 10 glass shops just went "huh?", as they just shot urethane foam into the channel and set the bottom of the window into it and called it done. 10th shop knew what I was talking about and sold the rubber by the foot. Guess which one I would take MY cars to... Thanks for all of the info! Even when it isn't what I intended to ask for it is still useful.

Hey NorthGuy... Thanks for the tip about rolling up and down, but this one is fixed. (as in unmoving, not as in not broken.). While we are on the subject, do you mean that this is the adhesive used to hold the moveable windows into their bottom channel? If so, with or without the channel rubber? And Archemitis, It looks simple but sometimes things that look hard are easy (pulling the engine) and easy things are hard (like sealing a window properly so it doesn't leak and or cancerize the body). I thought it best to ask the Great Wise Ones!

At the risk of sounding like a broken record (scratched CD???:-\): On that Advanced Auto radiaor, is the core copper or aluminum? I don't know that I have seen plastic tanks on a copper core. The plastic tanks are common and durable, will outlast the aluminum core several times over.

Topic Hijack: s'ko, do have contact info for Northern Tool? I understand that it used to be Northern Hydraulics. I quit getting their catalogs... We now return to your regularly scheduled thread...

I have no practical knowledge, but take a look at USMB page Homepage --> 80s Subarus --> 4x140 Wheels http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html Scan down to the Peugot wheels and check out the pictures and captions.

No practical knowledge, but looks like only certain Peugots have the same pattern. Check out the USMB page off of Homepage --> 80s Subarus --> 4x140 wheels: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html This page has alot of info on available wheels.

I need to replace fhe fixed side window on one of my TWagons. Anybody have recomendations for proper glue/sealant? Any useful tips? (Trim, special care needed sealing spots, that sort of thing.) Old glass is shattered, donor glass was a recent replacement that should be easy to remove even without wire-cable tool. I have some professional experience, but 10000 days ago.

Well, you are right. But after looking at my parts car, I have some better info. Does your selector actually select both hi/lo and 4wd/2wd correctly TOGETHER? In other words, since the one lever actuates 2 separate rods, are the rods sychronized? If they are, then the lever needs an adjustment, and if not then one rod or the other needs adjustment. It looks like the lever's pivot is on an assembly whose plate is bolted to the center body "tunnel" with slotted holes in the plate. If the lever position needs adjusting (probable) then this is where I would try it. The adjustment for the hi/lo rod is accessible from the engine compartment, being below and towards the centerline from the starter. Hope this helps.

IIRC, the linkages are accessible if you remove the interior plastic trim over the selector.

I am sure that people will set me straight, but I think the only major weakness of the EA82 is the timing belt, which on your buggy should be easily accessible for changing on a scheduled basis. More power and factory induction options, too. Either should be a great choice. But where are you going to stuff the cooling system?

I have never seen an aluminum 2-row-core replacement radiator, so that might be your first clue. And besides, if it is aluminum it is cruddy. Aluminum isn't as good a thermal conductor as copper and tends to form an insulative skin as they age. If you can feel the thickness of the core, like sticking your hand into through the engine driven fan (with the engine off... do as I say, not as I do), the single-row is about 1/2 inch thick, and 2-row about 1 inch thick.

Does it have to be rear-engined or can you go mid engine (normal-ish placement of engine to transmission, just driving rear instead of front wheels)?

Did you cover the Heim Joints? I did something similar with my '71 510, but the joint cruds-up very quickly. Might be different on the soob, as the Datsun's rods point forward. (For the rest of us: Heim Joints are also known as spherical rod ends, used on race cars and industrial apps.)

Bob E., I have a couple EA81's kicking around, including a disembodied one. If you want, I can take some digi-pics of what you need (like maybe with yardstick/tapemeasure in frame) and/or measure it for you. Can't weight it, though. As prev mentioned, if you tell us what you intend to do with it you can get more specific help. You ask about horsepower, but if you are talking airplane then you have some rpm design parameters (like with the prop). More n/a horsepower usually means changing torque peak to higher rpm, not so good for an airplane. Echo the dependable engine comments. I lost a headgasket, but it was from corrosion of the gasket. Not the engines fault if coolant is maintained. Lots of room for improvement in stock induction/exhaust and ignition.

RE: pitch stopper... Is the infamous rot easy to i-ball? Mine looks OK, as do both engine mounts and tranny (5MT) mount, but car has clunked since we got it used every time you change power. (Makes smooth clutch work a challenge.) I have tried playing with "preload" (wherein the front slot the bolt gets tightened) on the stopper, but no change.

I'd vote for looking at the plug wires, too. But just for grins:grin:, take a look at the spark plugs to see if the gaps too wide or they are totally fouled. Both of which will increase the voltage requirement to fire the plugs, so the spark energy will look for an easier path... like out through aging wires.

Hey rallyruss, if you thought that I doubted what you were saying, then I apologize. I didn't doubt it, just couldn't yet reconcile new info with what I felt that I "knew" (electronics). At first blush, I couldn't see how the O2 sensor, a voltage source, could sink the ref signal. After I pulled my head out of my nether-region, I thought of the O2 sensor as a simple battery, and the ref voltage as similar to a trickle charger (obviously not same purpose, but similar reality). An auto trickle charger can put out voltages much higher than 13.2v (I made a simple one once that could be 150v+ with no load), but the car battery acts as a load on it to reduce the voltage to near 13.2v. So, if the O2 sensor is working correctly, it will pull a 5v-but-very-low-current signal down to slightly above the voltage of the ion pump of the O2 sensor. If the sensor is dead, I can see the ref voltage going to 0v or floating to 5v ref voltage. (Not sure of fail modalities, so not sure if both are possible.) So rallyruss, if the O2 sensor has truly failed and he is seeing the 5v ref signal, our friend should be getting an error from the ECU? Can these things "soft fail", such that they will work somewhat under high load (sensor gets hotter???)?

Back on topic... (Although timing belts are nearer and dearer to my heart than they should be... lost a belt on freeway, replaced it and it shredded a couple hundred miles later. The new replacement just delaminated AND split along its length. Took part of the oil pump sprocket with it. I spent more time removing the belt rubble than it took to put it back together! Last time I buy a belt from CSK.) Where was I... Oh, yeah. back on topic: Edrach's edit said to tighten the control arm pivot bolt prior to lowering the car to the ground. My manual says to leave the bolt untightened (but secure!) until the car is near normal ride height (like on the ground) before final tightening. If not, then the pivot bushing has several degrees (10-15?) of preload twist on it. Tightening when at normal ride height eliminates this preload. (Similar thought applies to other suspension bushings that twist during suspension movement, like rear strut lower mount.) Great pictures! Great writeup!! Great info sharing by all!!!

OK, so it sounds like rallyruss understood your problem and tried to address it. I haven't heard of the 5v "pull-up" signal that rallyruss was talking about, and I can't reconcile that with a voltage-producing cell like an 02 sensor, but I haven't looked at O2 sensor theory for awhile. But I DO agree with rallyruss that you should use a good ol'-fashioned analog (NOT digital) voltmeter to look at the signal. By watching the needle swing you should be able to get an idea what is happening. If it goes above 1v then russ' reference voltage may be present and his thought that the O2 sensor is bad should be considered. My personal opinion is that the A/F meter is wonky. But testing with a volt meter would help prove/disprove that, too. Just don't try to get by with your average digital volt meter. Its display rate is probably once/sec, or at best twice/sec, and you won't be able to see the signal fluctuation. (The best thing would be an oscilloscope, but oh well!)

Gee... doh... thx. Anybody see my crayons? Aw! Time for my nap!

You make me feel stupider and stupider! I haven't heard of "clockable" before... define, please? (And keep it simple, as I can hear my brain cells dying.)

Hey Oddcomp, how much did your A/F meter jump around with the MS? Have you been able to keep your right foot out of it enough to know if fuel mileage improved? Does the Autometer A/F thingy have a sensitivity control? If things are bouncing that wildly you are not getting much useful info. Maybe if you could set it to be less sensitive it might be more useable. In general, though, it does sound like stock ECU is pretty sad. What year was oddcomp's soob? Maybe the ol' computer world's problem of too slow a processor to keep up. (Main reason why ABS took so long to become mainstream.)