NorthWet

Model, year and engine type (if known) would be useful information. Edit: Never mind... saw the info in the post tags. 1999 Outback 2.5.

"Lacking power" could also mean not accelerating well, which could be transmission-related. Does the transmission seem to shift properly? If it is in "limp mode", it would stay in 3rd gear (at least the older models do).

Before going through any extensive work, I would ensure that the axles are still properly torqued. By this I mean to check that the (slightly) dished washer under the axle nut is installed in the correct direction (convex-side outwards), and then retorque the axle nut. It is common for the axle to not seat completely in the hub on reinstallation, allowing the axle-nut's preload to vanish when the axle finishes seating. I have had some really dry and filthy CVs do just fine after thorough cleaning and greasing.

Seriously, you should look into the 6-lug wheels. Common as dirt, tires are readily available. 4x140s only were used by Subaru and Peugeot.

Yes. They have to be tapped out using hammer and drift (preferably brass ). There are reliefs in the hub's race bore that allows the drift some room for working. There is also a floating spacer collar in the hub center between the bearings. So, you have to put the drift into the hub's bore and contact the opposite side's outer race. Tap a little move the drift to another spot on the race, tap a little. Repeat until bearing is clear of its bore. Be careful to NOT gouge the hub surface.

On the Legacy, kicking it has produced nothing... and I have a pretty strong kick and a lot of mass to back it up. A 2x4 prybar didn't do any good. I haven't tried my digging stick yet, I am a little leery about applying too much impact, as I seldom use jack-stands when doing minor work. I have dirt/mud work areas, and lifting high enough for jack-stands can be an adventure. With the SVXs, I have to use a low floor jack to lift it up enough to get my higher lift floor jack under it... I REALLY want to prevent this on my master's Mazda, as my death will not come soon enough to prevent decades of her wingeing if she gets a flat tire. So, abrasive cleanup of both hub and rim, then grease or antiseize? I will try your suggestions tomorrow. I have already had to replace one defective/brand-new ball joint, and something(s) is(are) clunking around worrisomely. Cheers!

Biggest is safety: Depending on who you have around the running engine, the chance of serious injury is much greater without covers. This may seem unlikely, but this is the reasoning behind mechanics not wearing jewelry, loose-fitting clothes, and unrestrained long hair while working. The risk/reward gap is too great. To be clear, I wasn't saying that people should not run without covers, just that it should not be put forth as the default for everyone. Cheers!

Leaving off the covers as the previous poster recommended has its pros and cons. I would suggest considering your needs before leaving them off.

I'm on the West Coast... all of our mules are pretty laid-back. For the beating on the sacrificial block with a big hammer, are we all talking about from the car-centerline side of the rim, or are some (as it sounds to me) talking about it from the lug-nut side?

Where exactly is the leak showing up? There are several opportunities for leaking near the front of the engine. The waterpump is not difficult to replace.

With a wagon, you have the added stress points of wiring passing through to the hatch, plus the wiring in the hatch itself having known issues (i.e. - the defroster cabling has a connector that tends to fry itself, partially because the cabling is stretched a little).

For the Leg, choosing door #1 (the one with the tiger behind it) is not a viable option, as it was a teenager-meets-tree acquisition. For the Mazda, door #1 is out, as the lady behind door #2 would push me through door #1 if I did this with her car. So, it sounds like I am reduced to whacking with a big hammer... Kind of lacks elegance and finesse. I thought that I was clever with the Mazda when I liberally coated all contact areas with the grease-at-hand (white lithium-based). Yet, a week later they are stuck solid. Sigh.

I am having trouble removing alloy wheels from 2 hub-centric cars (a 92 Legacy and a Mazda). I have had near-zero experience with this combo, and accept that they might be hard to remove from the Leg, which has had them in place for years. But the Mazda's were put on just a couple weeks ago, and I used a little grease/lubricant to try and prevent this problem. So... First, what is the best way to remove them? Second, what is the best way to minimize this issue in the future? Cheers!

My suggestion is to convert to using 6-lug-bolt rims. More info on your post looking for 14" rims.

I would think that your best, realistic option (considering your other post looking for tall tires) is to go with 6 lug-bolt rims, such as used on Toyotas, Nissans, Mitsubishis, et al. Relatively easy, cheap, and allows lots of options for rims and tires. Two ways to go about this is to have your car's hubs redrilled for 6 lug (punch 2 lug-bolts out, and drill 4 new holes), or redrill the 6 bolt rims into a 4-bolt pattern. Plenty of information on USMB for doing it either way.

The POWER light blinking 16 times is the tranny's equivalent to a "check engine" light: It tells you there is a problem, but not what. There is a truly annoying sequence on your 4EAT to read the code. (I can't remember offhand...hmmm...my XT FSM says that all you need to do to display the codes is insert the FWD fuse... can't verify at this time.)

I would suggest avoiding using corrosive flushes. The aluminum in the system will not like them, and it is hard to properly neutralize the acids.

Not the definitive source, but my understanding is that the dash wiring harness is majorly different, as are some of the sensors. If you do a search on converting digital to analog (the usual direction for a swap), they talk about how much of the wiring needs to be changed. Also, your colorful language (the Charlie-Foxtrot), which somehow slipped through the profanity filters, is frowned upon. Edit: The glitch in the profanity-filter has been reported. Cheers!

No difference in how the timing belts are mounted and aligned in any of the EA82 engines.. As MilesFox typed, good chance the belts are not aligned properly. You have a turbo engine installed in a car that die not originally have a turbo engine? Some clarification might be useful. Is the radiator fan coming on when it gets hot? Does this engine have the engine driven cooling fan on the engine's left side? If you can safely put your hand on the radiator's fins, do so and check for temperature differences/bands top to bottom. Did you mess with the ignition timing?

Yes, mixture is set by the ECU, so without messing with the output of a sensor you will not mess with the mixture. I don't have time at the moment to confirm, but that does look like the screw that allows more intake air to bypass the throttle butterfly. Although the lack of power at upper end might be mixture related, in general it is more likely to be ignition related. I assume that you have all new spark wires and cap and rotor. Plugs MIGHT be fouled, but my money would be put on a timing issue: Either the base timing is off significantly (5 or more degrees) or the "green diagnostic connectors" are connected and holding the timing static. Sorry about the lack of previous responses... over here we like to sleep. Cheers!

For SPFI/MPFI: Does the distributor rotor turn on its shaft if you try moving it by hand? (There is a set-screw that tends to fall out.) If that is not the problem, does the rotor stay motionless while the starting motor is turning the engine? If so, then a timing belt has broken. For SPFI/MPFI: If those are not the problem, the issue might be in the crank position signals coming from the electronic distributor. I do not know how to easily test this. Replacing the distributor with a properly functioning unit is the common way to tell. The coil might be bad (relatively unlikely), the "ignitor" transistor on the coil bracket might be bad (more likely), or the coil bracket might not be properly grounded (the ignitor grounds through the coil bracket) (much more likely). It would be a good idea to check for the presence of battery voltage at the coil in order to ensure that this is not a fuse or ignition switch issue. There could also be issues with the coil high-tension wire.

IMHO, if you want to do a lot of work for no reward, you have the perfect project for it. You are taking a niche-market model and trying to remove everything that makes it different from a base carb'd model... except the one thing that makes it less reliable than a carb'd model. Going away from fuel injection, especially with trying to keep it turbo'd, sounds like a really bad idea. The engine is already prone to detonation and overheating, and the arbitrariness of the mixture provided by a carb, especially in blow-through, is likely to exacerbate these issues. Add the loss of the "knock sensor" and you are asking for real trouble. The dual-intake-port heads only came with MPFI manifolds, so you are looking at some fabrication here. No real source for up-pipe, so another fab job. I am not sure why you want to shave the heads. There is also little point in getting the engine rebuilt, as it will be expensive relative to just getting a used engine. Are you sure that it is a bearing knock and not just very noisy "lifters" (aka "HLA"s); the HLAs can be VERY noisy and sound like a rod knock. There is usually no reason to bore the cylinders, as they probably still have the original honing marks: Unless they are scratched or corrosion-pitted, they will last almost forever. Why an aluminum radiator? They are shiny and lighter than copper, but far inferior in every other way. And you will need the superior cooling of copper. For wiring, it sounds like you will be replacing nearly all of the wiring from the steering-column forward to the radiator, plus replacing some of the senders (including fuel-gauge sender???) to go from digi-dash to analog dash. A carb'd or SPFI GL model would be far more practical and reliable. But, it is your call. BTW, I have owned my '71 510 since 1977. Cheers!

Ummm... isn't the adjuster screw on the pushrod end of the rocker? If so, as long as there is enough adjustment in the screw to compensate for the removed material, the rocker geometry should stay exactly the same.

Regarding the governor, general opinion is that you cannot tell the governor's condition by moving it by hand while still assembled. The general description it that the separated parts need to slide "like butter".

This is also my understanding. I do not recall having heard anyone say that they were not interchangeable.