mdcc2010
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Posts posted by mdcc2010
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Decided to dig up an old post because I can't find relevant information.
My '88 RX's rear wiper has the screw-type arm and requires an adapter (currently has the pin type), as does my XT's front. The wipers themselves are worn out and blindingly bright (the paint wore away long ago), so I want to replace them. The trouble is, the wipers are pressed onto the adapter and therefore unremovable; the entire unit (wiper plus adaper) needs replaced. The adapters with sub-19" Bosch wipers don't fit (too narrow, and also different screw pattern), and the 21" Bosch wiper I procured didn't come with any adapters (WTF?). Wal*Mart, O'Reilly, Advance, and Auto Zone don't have adapters available separately.
Another funny item of note: it seems that different wiper application guides list different sizes for the RX's rear wiper: some say 19", others say 21".
So, any suggestions as to where I could acquire the correct adapter? The Anco 48-08 looks like it may do the trick, but I can't find any info on it (particularly the pin size and/or screw spacing) and it's not available locally.
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It's not the luggage rack (wish I had one of those), it's a normal-looking spoiler: nice enough to potentially have been a factory option, but also with enough flair to be a decent aftermarket addition.
As I mentioned, the wheels have lug covers, so there's no way to tell if they're 4 or 5-lug type, sadly; that really would've been the most obvious feature to notice, the lack of which is why I'm here inquiring after more subtle clues.
The tip about the headlight squirters will be helpful. My 87 XT GL10 has headlight squirters so I figured they were common to most years and anything over the DL trim. Maybe I'll mosey back down there and check the bumper at some point.
Also, how are the headrests different? The car in question has square-ish ones with the rectangular hole in the middle, like my current XT.
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In the interest of increasing the versatility and high-speed fuel economy of my RX, I would like to swap the LO range gear and 4th and 5th gear sets from an SPFI D/R tranny into my Turbo D/R tranny.
Why? The SPFI's higher LO range would give more 'oomph' than mine, and the lower 5th gear would give longer legs on the highway (with city driving balanced by the lower 4th gear).
I like the FT4WD of my current gearbox vs. selectable 4WD, and supposedly the turbo units had stronger bearings, so a straight-up transmission swap isn't something I want to do. Also, my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd would remain their original ratios with the gear swap, so the acceleration from a stop would remain mostly the same; I'd just have to hold 3rd and 4th a little longer, and potentially downshift from 5th on steep inclines or for high-speed passing (rather than simply goosing the accelerator as I can currently).
Anybody have any experience with doing something like this? I'm mostly interested in sourcing the gears (or a donor gearbox with something broken other than my desired components) and whether there are any crazy differences between the units that may prevent simply sliding different gears into my gearbox.
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Yes, the dealer and factory cruise systems are quite different. Most post-'86 cars will have the same system with only a few cosmetic changes (mostly the steering wheel or button styles). Still you'd want to be pretty close to whatever year the target car is. Otherwise, it's really easy to pull the factory cruise from a car that has it (speaking only for EA82s):
FIRST THINGS FIRST:
Make sure you have a cruise control capable wiring harness in your target car! Not all cars will have all of the plugs just waiting for a cruise system to be installed, so make sure that you, in fact, do have the applicable connectors before you start.
*The cruise control main switch is underneath the rear defrost button. You'll need the entire rear defrost switch/cruise switch unit (they're one assembly, you can't just take the cruise switch part of it).
*The cruise actuator on non-XT models is actually under the steering wheel connected directly to the accelerator pedal linkage. Unclip the actuator linkage from the pedal, undo the one bolt to free the actuator bracket from the pedal assembly, and there's your actuator. You'll want to pull the vacuum line out with it; there's a coupler under the hood you can disconnect and then just pull it through.
*You'll need the brake switches (set of two switches into one 4-pin connector) and the clutch switch (if applicable). They're fairly easy to remove, on the pedal assembly near where you removed the actuator.
*The ACCEL/RESUME switch assembly on the steering wheel. Pretty much just take the steering wheel pad off and there ya go. There was more than one steering wheel style, though, so you may have to look around to find one that matches yours. Or, take the whole steering wheel if you like the other style better.
*The cruise control circuit unit lives above the glove box. So, remove the glove box, and there should be a silver box up there on the underside of the dashboard. Simply remove the screws and disconnect the harness. It should say "CRUISE" somewhere on it; if not, you may have the trip computer circuit unit (if the car is so equipped), in which case, pull out the other little circuit box under the dash and it should be the correct one. Just make sure you look before you leave.
*Finally, the vacuum pump assembly. It's on the RH strut tower. You may need to remove the air cleaner to get to all of the bolts. Also, you should keep the bolts you removed in order to reinstall it, as they're odd lengths. When removing the vacuum pump, make sure to take all of the vacuum hose along with it (including the very long hose that goes from the pump to the actuator).
Reverse the process to install it in your target car, and you're pretty much good to go.
As for installing factory cruise in a car without a corresponding wiring harness: it's possible, but there would be lots of custom wiring, including splicing into some of the gauge sensors (most notably, the speedometer's speed signal generator) and running power and signal wires from the circuit unit under the dash to the vacuum pump in the engine compartment. It'd arguably be easier to pull the wiring harness (the 'F'ront and 'I'nstrument harnesses) and do it correctly instead. Also, you could use this opportunity to swap in an MPFI engine, or to install the digital display and/or trip computer as well.
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So, a guy saw me working on my RX the other day and came over to talk to me. He asked if the XT in the carport (an '87 Turbo) was mine as well, and I answered affirmatively, and he asked if I wanted another one. I knew the car he was talking about since I had seen it not long after I moved here a year ago (and it hasn't moved in that time or likely for quite a while previous to that), so I said 'yeah, let me know if the owner wants to get rid of it.'
Anyways, I went and took a closer look at this car, and since it's behind a fence, I can't really go peek through the windows for any subtle clues. On the outside, it has no hood scoop, the tail lights suggest it's a post-87.5 MY, but it's been painted and has aftermarket wheels with lug covers. It has a spoiler, not too rice-y looking, but I'm not inclined to believe it's original. After looking at pics on the internet, nothing visually separates the XT6 from the DL or GL models other than wheels or decals (both of which are gone on this car).
The question: are there any other obvious bits that an XT6 would sport as opposed to the 4-cylinders?
The only thing that drives me to think it could be the XT6 is that its wheels are generic-looking lowrider spoke wheels, which I imagine would be fairly difficult to source for the old 4-lug pattern but relatively easy to come by in the 5-lug style.
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One of the funny things about our cars (add it to the list, eh?) is that unlike most other makes, the electric fan was primarily for cooling the engine, while the clutch fan was primarily for the A/C system [source: 1988 L-series and 1987 XT FSMs]. The A/C system would often run the electric fan in conjunction with the clutch fan, but its primary air mover was supposed to be the clutch fan; cars without A/C lacked the clutch fan.
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All 1983 and later USDM cars required cats regardless of whether or not they actually required one (CVCC Hondas, for example, had emissions below the EPA targets without one, which is why they didn't use one until cats were mandated).
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While flipping through the FSM set for my '88 RX, I discovered that in Canadian cars there is a fresh air/recirculate button not found on the USA models. This switch looks to simply open or close the vacuum to the air selector flap, allowing for the use of recirculation in any HVAC mode.
I want this feature, but cannot readily find a vacuum switch with a button or knob control; the closest I can find are port vacuum switches, and they're all thermostatically controlled.
Anybody know of a switch suitable for my purposes, or will I have to try to get one from Subaru of Canada?
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I'm going to be ordering a set of cams from Delta, so if they can hook me up with better valves and a p&p job, I'll have them do all of it. Summit Racing has a retail store in Atlanta, so maybe they can help me out too.
I'm not well-read on aftermarket CV axles; are FW better than others? I was going to buy some Cardone ones or whatever from Autozone since most places either don't seem to carry the rears or they're also random aftermarket pieces.
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Thanks for that site, grossgary, but sadly it has yet to prove helpful: when the site shows a listing, a call to the yard usually elicits a 'no, ain't got nothin' like that,' and the distances are just a tad too great to warrant a potentially fruitless trip out to see which one was correct. Some days I wish I were into F150s and Camaros instead of obscure Japanese cars, especially down here.
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Everything as far as the A/C system is concerned looks authentic: there are no splices or hacks or handwritten labels or anything, and it uses a Matsu************a compressor that bolts on the outside of the alternator into a bracket with the FHI swoosh logo molded into it. However, there are several bits on the car that have numbers written on them in paint pen or something that I suspect may be from a junkyard, so perhaps the switch was switched out at some point. Gives me one more thing to look for, I guess, if I can find any places that actually have these cars down here. I'll probably still go the independent switch route, though; I don't always like running the compressor in defrost mode. Thanks, all.
Themoneypit, I'd probably take you up on your offer. I need... lots. Well, not really NEED, but it'd be nice to have: driver's power window switch, possibly the climate control switch unit (with A/C), the hatch area light lens, LH tail light, center shifter console (the one with the pocket) and maybe the driver's seat and rear folding seat backs. Cruise would be nice, but that's a lot of stuff, and I don't have the second cable attachment for it on the throttle so I'm not sure how it'd wire up. And a full clutch fan shroud; mine just has a little crescent-looking thing off of an older GL, which is only marginally better than running the fan naked. Maybe if you've got alloys and the LSD has yet to be spoken for, I'd be interested in those as well.
So yeah, if you're gonna go that route, let me know.
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My '88 RX appears to have a dealer-installed A/C system: the equipment is there, but the climate control buttons don't have the A/C or A/C MAX settings. The system never worked and is currently partially disassembled, so it'd be unfun to try to figure it out.
This invokes a question: Under what modes is the compressor active with dealer A/C? Is it on in VENT, BILEV, and/or DEFROST? I don't have the owner's manual for this car, or any dealer supplements for the A/C system.
My XT has no VENT mode, only A/C, so I assume it runs in VENT mode in the RX, and if my old Impreza is any clue, it would also run in DEFROST.
As an aside, I really don't like the climate control in these cars (about the only thing I don't like, tbh): in this case I prefer Hondas, which typically always had cable-controlled mode functions (vacuum controls are teh suck), a FRESH/RECIRC air function, and an A/C switch so that I can run the A/C (or turn it off) whenever I please. Subaru finally installed a decent control system in my '99 RSK, but it certainly took them a while to do.
At any rate, if I decide to repair the system (which is currently partially disassembled), I'll install a separate switch for the compressor so that I can run it at will; I'd just like to know how it's currently supposed to operate.
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Thanks for the input, all.
A can of fix-a-flat doesn't really help if a tire blows out or eats a slag bolt (both of which I have experienced), so I still insist on carrying at least the T-type spare, which in my RX's case needs to continue living in the engine compartment (no point to having an awesome cargo area if a good portion is occupied by the ugly spare tire all the time).
As for the XT, it's irrelephant; if I were going to do an EJ swap, I'd probably do it to the wedge (complete with an STi 6-speed and 5-lug conversion). Not sure if I'd use a high-strung EJ20T or go balls-out and turbo an EZ30; in either case, a turbo is mandatory.
If the Europeans can get 136bhp from their XT Turbos, I should at least be able to get the same. I'm assuming the difference is simply fuel octane (our regular fuel is 91 RON/87 AKI; theirs is 95 RON/91 AKI) and maybe an extra pound or two of boost; with a charge cooler and 93 AKI fuel, I can likely get at least 140bhp with no other mods. This guy did: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_subaru_rx_turbo.htm
Building a stronger bottom end with forged pistons and rods and Delta torque cams should yield close to my target without putting extreme stress on the engine.
17PSI/200bhp isn't a make-or-break target, it's simply a target; if I fall short, no big deal. If I notice problems at 200bhp (knock, excessive EGT), I'll detune it to a safe point. If I end up replacing it anyway, I want a turbo that can happily provide 17PSI just in case I need it and my block can handle it. If not, hey, I'll turn it down. Really, that figure is boost at the turbo; I fully expect pressure to drop after it runs through the charge cooler, and am not trying to run more than about 12PSI through the engine. I've done enough searching on here to surmise that they don't like to handle too much.
In my searches, however, I've often noticed that either a.) people post these "I'm gonna build an EA82T with all this stuff" threads, and then the threads die for one reason or another (gave up, wrecked it, EJ swap, etc) so it's hard to tell if anything they did was to any benefit; b.) people get an EA82T and then talk about how they're going to deliberately blow it up before swapping in an EJ; or c.) people neglect the hell out of them or crank the boost without any corresponding mods and then complain about how terrible they are because the engine only lasted 10k miles before exploding.
To be clear, I love the hell out of the EJ series: they're high-performance and extremely rugged engines. My RSK with its EJ208 was probably the best car I will ever have. That being said, the EA82 is not FHI's best creation, but they're not as bad as most say (certainly better than most contemporary American lumps were), and are capable of decent power with enough support. I'm not planning on trying to best any STis or Mustang 5.0s or M3s or anything; just build a nice, fun, fairly quick car that's very close in form and function to its original specs.
So anyway, I answered a few of my mod questions:
*turbo line oil cooler: not really a good idea, as was noted previously and so I have read elsewhere. Maybe I can just get a replacement pipe with some fins on it or something to help cool it down, or an oil pump-mounted oil cooler; at any rate I'm not going to worry about it immediately.
*turbo coolant line redirect: I had it backwards: the supply is from the head, and the return goes to the thermostat housing, so that's pretty much moot.
*MegaSquirt: after hours of reading the manuals, I confirmed that an MS2/Extra will do everything that I want: sequential fuel injection, electronic boost control, wideband O2 sensor, MAP sensor with continuous barometric correction, and hot-switchable fuel/spark/boost tables. Plus I can still go with a distributorless ignition system (either wasted spark or coil-on-plug) should I get tired of the dizzy. The whole MS kit and accessories should cost less than or equal to $1k installed and tuned, which is heaps cheaper than any competing comprehensive engine management solution.
As for the engine build, I've decided to go in phases (which should help me build both cars for the price of just one long block):
My RX currently runs fairly well for the most part (at least, it will with a couple new HLAs), so it will be my MS testbed and also the recipient of the first custom A2W charge cooler I order. After I get a solid tune for it, I'll move to my XT.
My XT has, at the very least, a blown head gasket, low compression (~115PSI average, cold), and a cross-threaded spark plug. So, it will be the first block to be torn down and rebuilt with stronger bits. Once it's back in one piece, it will get a similar A2W charge cooler and a MS install configured with my RX's initial tune, which I'll then adjust to tune the XT to its limit.
After I find the limits of my XT's build, I can either accept them or address them in the RX's performance rebuild. Once I've got the new block in, the RX will receive what I shall dub as the penultimate tune, and then I can focus on body work (if I haven't had it done in between engine rebuilds).
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I live in Georgia right now, and Subarus are really not very common down here. At least, not the older models. As such, most places won't touch my cars other than general maintenance (and 90% of the time I do it better than they can or are willing to, so there's no point in taking it anywhere unless I absolutely can't do it myself).
The question: Does anybody have any shops to recommend in this area? The closer to Macon the better, but I don't mind a bit of a drive for expert service. Really, they don't have to be Subaru specific, just really good at a particular thing, like porting heads or repairing driveshafts (especially replacing the staked-in U-joints).
Also, I have an XT that I'd like to take to an excellent body shop that will strip everything (including the fixed glass), sandblast the old paint and rust off, correct the rot, rustproof, repaint, and reassemble the car. Most places around here are the mask-and-spray type; I need a place that offers full restoration and won't give me too much grief for bringing an '80s Japanese car amongst their classic American steel.
I'd do it myself, but it'd be a huge learning curve since I've never treated large sections of rust before and my rented house doesn't have a garage, the lack of which would make the whole process exceedingly aggravating.
Thanks!
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My dashpot is kind of stuck and its shaft boot is pretty much gone, so I'm looking to acquire a replacement. Anybody know of a corresponding part number, or if the one for the carb'd cars will work the same? None of my online parts store searches have turned up anything useful. I've seen a couple other requests for new dashpots here but none look to have been resolved. If nothing else, maybe I'll see if a universal type will fit (Holley makes one for carbs, so the auto parts stores out to have one in stock to compare).
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A little old, but figured I'd post anyway.
Seafoam is good stuff; I use it in all of my cars (when I'm not overseas; it's generally not available there). There's usually a very noticeable before vs. after with it.
Now, nearly all of my cars have been at least 15 years old when I acquired them, so they had about that many years' worth of build-up in the intake system (maintenance seems to not be something most people get). On Subarus, apparently build-up in the intake valves is a problem, because there's an OE product similar to Seafoam (called something like Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner) designed especially to do this cleaning.
Anyway, when I first started using the stuff, my cars were either carb'd or MAP-based EFI, so I could easily dump the stuff straight into the throttle. When I first tried on a FI Subaru, I couldn't get the engine to run with the main air hose disconnected from the throttle body, so I tried using vacuum lines: it didn't work very well, as most of it kind of leaked out or just pooled up.
Later, I discovered that the problem was that 'Rus generally use MAF sensors, and that with no air flow signal from the MAF while the engine is running, the engine would stall.
The solution: disconnect the MAF sensor (the CEL illuminates, ECU approximates air intake using O2 sensor and/or engine speed so the engine will still run), run Seafoam through the system, reconnect the MAF, reset the ECU, and go on your merry way.
Regardless of the fuel system, I typically do the following for a Seafoam intake treatment:
1. Disconnect MAF, if equipped.
2. Remove air intake tube from throttle body: this is the easiest and most direct way to introduce the Seafoam, plus it does a good job of cleaning the throttle and is guaranteed to hit all of the cylinders.
3. Notice any build-up on the throttle plate. If it's excessive, you may want to use throttle body cleaner to get the bulk of it, then let it evaporate.
4. Start the engine.
If you've disconnected the MAF, the engine will run a little rough, but it should run and respond fairly well to the throttle.
5. While working the throttle linkage from the engine compartment (or with a helper working the accelerator, I guess), SLOWLY pour/spray the Seafoam directly into the throttle. You'll use about 1/3 cup or however much it says on the bottle/can/whatever. Pouring/spraying continually, you'll be giving the engine just enough gas to keep it from stalling up until the end: when you're just about out of Seafoam, close the throttle and dump in the remainder; the engine will stall. Leave it off for a minimum of five minutes; I don't think there's an upper limit, so I usually give it 30 minutes or so to more fully dissolve the heavier crud that may be in the system.
6. Reassemble the intake during the waiting period. Also reconnect the MAF if disconnected.
7. After the waiting period, start the engine. It should fire up almost immediately. It will smoke like nobody's business for between five and ten minutes. You can use this time to visually inspect the exhaust for leaks or anything.
8. It's generally recommended to change the oil and/or spark plugs after a Seafoaming, but not mandatory. I usually Seafoam the oil and fuel about a week before running it in the intake, then take care of the maintenance (change oil, clean/replace plugs, replace fuel filter if needed) all at once.
9. If the CEL remains illuminated with an MAF error, reset the ECU; otherwise, you're done.
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Thanks for the info.
I'm getting ready to send the RX's ticky little 200k-mile engine off to be rebuilt, and it will not be cheap; I'm already aware of the pricetag, and it'll be higher than the purchase price of the majority of cars that I've ever owned (my most expensive car was $7500 for a '99 Legacy B4 RSK). My intention is to keep my RX forever and ever, barring any catastrophes.
I'm trying to get a set of gen 3 heads first, because if I'm going to spend the money for a P&P job and larger valves, I'd like to do it to the heads with the lowest probability of developing fatal cracks.
I've already got most of the mods you've listed lined up. The only one I'd rather avoid is using the XT's spider manifold, because it would likely interfere with the spare tire mounting under the hood. I'm only hung up on the spare tire because there have been many instances where a can of fix-a-flat wouldn't do anything for me, and I'd rather not lose cargo space to the spare. Anyway, I figure enough boost would overcome any restrictions in the flatter manifold. If I absotively, posilutely have to change to a spider manifold to exceed ~150HP, then I'll do it; otherwise, the stock one stays.
If the stock turbo can regularly produce 10-15PSI without being over-taxed, I wouldn't mind keeping it; I'm only looking to replace it as I figure it'd be run ragged at those figures. A much bigger turbo I'd like to avoid, as I'd rather keep lag down. So yes, a VF8 or 10 will likely be the replacement for the VF7 should I need to go that route. I don't think I'd go with a TD04, because if I'm going to change all sorts of stuff anyway, I may as well go with an unrelated unit with better figures, like a Garrett. I'm still kind of thinking about using a variable geometry unit...
As for fuel, yeah, a higher-flow pump and injectors would be good ideas. I've heard that 240SX injectors fit right in.
Also, a lot of my goals aren't fixed: if I can get close but not quite to 200HP, that's ok. If I only need 12PSI to hit my target, then I won't push for more. As I said, I intend to keep this car for a very long time, including to overseas locations where I can bring my car (pretty much any normal tour except Japan). So, I'm after performance, but longevity is a close second.
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Hey all,
I have an '87 XT Turbo, and an '88 RX, and I'm starting work on turning them into awesome cars again.
I'm keeping the EA82 primarily because I want to keep the cars looking original and discreet, to keep their original transmissions (complete with locking differentials and the RX's dual-range), and to keep the RX's spare tire mounted under the hood.
For me, an EJ swap would only be worthwhile if it were 250+HP, and would be best paired with its own transmission and the 5-lug wheels and associated suspension bits, and that's not really what I'm after here.
So, I've had a few brainwaves about small mods to make in addition to beefing up the engines. The big stuff so far is for the RX's impending engine rebuild; the XT will need some rust correction and an as-yet unscheduled rebuild before it gets any mods. Any constructive additions or critiques are welcome.
*In an effort to keep the oil temperatures down (and ultimately minimize the possibility of overheating the RH head), I'd like to run the turbo's oil outlet through the radiator's transmission oil cooler before sending it to the RH head. I figure the combination of the length of the hoses involved and the pass through the cooler would keep temps reasonable.
*In another effort to keep the temps down on the RH head, I'd like to take the turbo's coolant return and T it into the upper radiator hose, maybe with a one-way valve to keep the main coolant flow from backing into the turbo. This would mean capping the turbo coolant drain port on the RH head. Anybody know if the head relies on that flow, or if it's extraneous?
*Bigger turbo, with an ideal target of 17 PSI. I plan to run it at 15 at most, but if I need a couple extra PSI to compensate for loss in the aftercooler or through the intake, it'd be nice to have. I'm thinking a VF-8 or 11, or if I have to change the exhaust flanges anyway, a Garrett T3 or something.
*I'm working on getting an air-to-water charge cooler. I'd like to model it off of the form of the factory air cleaner box, which would be convenient and ease installation greatly; given the size, it should have enough area to provide effective cooling for my 200HP target. The heat exchanger could be discretely mounted in front of the radiator, or even in the RH wheel well when the resonator chamber is removed.
*A recirc BOV. Not sure where I'll source it yet.
*The factory air cleaner box and MAF are being ditched when the new engine management system is installed.
*I've chosen to run a MegaSquirt system to replace the factory ECU, partly because it's fully programmable, but it also has an MAP sensor, can make use of a wide-band O2 sensor, and can be configured with an integral boost controller and knock sensor. It can be upgraded later to control extra fuel injectors should I end up needing them, and I can also switch to a distributorless and/or direct ignition system should I choose to do so.
I've read that the MegaSquirt can be configured to run two separate maps, so ideally I'll have a switch that I can set that will allow me to go from 7PSI economy mode (for stop-and-go and long-distance cruising) to 15PSI performance mode by simply resetting the switch and cycling the ignition.
I also had thoughts on the transmission. Since I'm not too bothered by downshifting to get/keep the engine in its optimum power band, and the fact that the average highway speed limit has increased by 15MPH since these cars were introduced, I'd like to put taller gears on 4 and 5. Right now when cruising, I'm in 5th gear at 35MPH @~2000RPM, and 75MPH turns the engine at ~3750RPM, which kind of sucks. Even though I still get about 30MPG like this, I'm more interested in longevity and quieter operation than anything else with this one.
I've read that some of the older transmissions had slightly lower ratios (I don't have the particulars in front of me just now...), so I'd like to swap out those gears (and install new bearings, because, why not?) while the engines are out anyway. I've done rough calculations and would save 500~700RPM @75MPH by changing to a lower 5th gear (I think the current one is about .925, and the one I'd want is .735 or something). Anybody have experience with doing this sort of thing, or have a source for some gear sets?
tl;dr: Kinda difficult to summarize it all succinctly; you should read it in full.
Thanks!
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I guess that's a yes. haha. Thanks for the link.
I owned a Legacy B4 RSK and love the performance and driveability of the TT (mine was an EJ 208; the 276hp high-output version). Yes it would have to be tuned to run on lower octane fuel (they want 100 RON, which isn't easy to get Stateside), but ECUTEK has experience with retuning them so i don't think that would be difficult.
I wonder if there's some sort of remote brake system I could use. Not necessarily brake-by-wire, but even a remote booster or something. I seem to recall some VWs in RHD trim with the brake booster still on the left, so it can probably be done. Interesting project at the very least.
As an aside, i still don't know why everybody hates on sequential twin turbo systems. Yes they're harder to modify, and support from an aftermarket ecu is questionable at best, but from stock they give useable boost from very low rpms without sacrificing high-end power. With Subaru's system the boost valley would have to be tuned out, but it can be done. Or, it can be mitigated by a decent driver; it rarely bothered me.
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For those who don't know, the 2nd gen Legacies in Japan (and a few other RHD countries) had the option of a twin-turbo EJ20. This engine was not fitted to LHD cars because the LH turbo interfered with the brake booster and steering linkages.
However, cars with the EA series engines seem to have a bit more space under the hood with the engine slightly more forward (mostly due to the spare tire), so there may be sufficient clearance. Anybody ever look into transplanting a TT EJ into an older generation car?
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I have pics, but there's not much to see: a few dings, no major rust, but the seats are pretty much done. I may put a few up eventually.
Anybody know how the a/c works? The system is there, but there's no dedicated switch or anything. I assume it runs in vent mode and/or defrost, but have the dash torn up to replace lights and can't really experiment.
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Hello. I've owned Subarus for years, but just picked up my first "older generation" car and it's interesting to say the least; I now know why these cars were referred to as "quirky". I'll be restoring it to its original glory, and that's my main reason for joining this forum.
I try to search as much as possible before asking questions, but sometimes I don't see what I'm looking for until someone points it out to me in another thread (the whole right-under-your-nose thing). So, sorry in advance for if I do that.
Generally I do everything myself, except body work (and stuff for which I lack proper equipment).
On that note, anybody know a very good body shop somewhere in the Southeast? Preferably one that knows and likes Subarus. I'm after a full strip with light rust correction and small repairs, respray in original color (including trim pieces and the decals, original or good replicas), and full rust proofing. Eventually replacement seats or reupholstering would be in order as well.
Is there a .pdf version of the FSM anywhere? I have the Chilton manual but it's not exactly perfect since it supports so many models.
Also, parts: for my '88 RX-7 I can find most everything that I might need, but bits for my Subaru of the same year seem to be a little harder to come by; specifically, engine parts, full brake caliper rebuild kits, suspension bushings, and probably an LSD rebuild kit (mine's kinda crunchy, don't know if it's the clutches or gears yet). Any sources? There doesn't seem to be as much love for the '80s models as for the Impreza and Legacy.
Thanks for any input. Future car-specific questions will go in their respective sections.
87 rx rear wiper ?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
What I've discovered so far:
There are two side saddle/pin-type wiper arm pin sizes: 3/16" (for smaller blades), and 1/4" (for >20" blades). The common one is 3/16"; the one on the XT and RX rear is of course the 1/4". So, the ANCO 48-08 adapter won't fit because it's the 3/16" variety (though it'll fit the RX's 7 mm front arms, if you prefer side saddle mounts to J-hooks). Because the width of the wiper arm mounting point is 1 cm, using the common 7 mm bayonet-style mount is also out of the question (without using a grinder and drilling new screw holes, anyway). I'm still trying to find a suitable solution; I'll post something should I ever find one.