mrtoyou7747

I got this code a couple of years back on my 98OB. Came on a few min. after I went through a large puddle. My mechanic reset the computer and it has not come back. He was able to see the perfromace of both O2 sensors with is OBDII tool and they looked normal. He told me that in the early days the limits on the diagnostics were set abit tight and that this could happen. As I said it hasn't come back for about 2 years.

If you think about it you will realize that if you fix the flat tire soon after it happens you won't have a difference in tread wear hence circumference. So plug the tire ASAP and remount it.

I recently took my wife's 99 Civic to Midas to have the muffler changed out. The job was done quickly and the price was competitive with other shops except the stealer. A few days later my wife complained about some kind of tick she was hearing so I took it back and they tried to fix it. It took 3 or 4 trips back to Midas with muffler change outs at no cost to me for anything. The car is quiet and I would certainly consider going back to Midas for muffler for my 98 OB (125K same muffler) when it needs it.

I got 100K from the stock Michelin tires that came with my 98 OB. Replaced them with the same. I can also see that the new set is also doing well. Rotate rotate rotate!

I live in Queens and use Al's Garage in Syosset. 516 677 0157. This guy is great and real fair. He is right near the LIRR station so if you have to leave the car it's easy to get back and forth with the train. He will work with you as far as getting there early or late. I work in the City and drive out early to meet him at his shop and take the train into Penn. The guy has saved me a bunch of money and knows these cars in and out. I found out about him from another Subie owner I met at a party.

On other cars the low fuel lamp is controlled by a separate sensor in the fuel tank. They seem to use a thermistor sensor whose resistance willl change when it is no longer immersed in the fuel. This is caused by the gasoline conducting heat away form the sensor thus changing it's resitance. Once exposed the heat conduction is gone thus it's temperature changes and thus the the sensor changes. On my 98 OB the light goes on when I have used 13.7 gal. THis is ovewr 125K miles

When I had the seal replaced we noticed that the shaft was covered with burnt fluid. Don't know why but we checked the cooler lines and found them to be almost clogged. You might weant to check the cooler lines.

See if the binding goes away with the AWD fuse in place. If it does it probably means you have problem with the clutch pack. Replace the diff fluid in both the front and the rear diffs with synthetic. Worked for me for about 2 years. They can now replace the clutch pack without removing the tranny - should cost about $800

Check out Crutchfiled they sell the unit and give you everything you need

My experience says to check out the grounds. See if you can measure a voltage between what you think is ground and the minus terminal of the battery. Should be "0" volts

Ater I got a CEL I went to Autozone for the free reading and also got the P0420 code. I then went to my regular mechanic who had a reader that showed the sensor's performances and he told me that they looked OK (if your CAT is bad evidently there is no difference between the two O2 sensors). He reset the the ECU and the cose has not come back for almost three months. Seems that soem of the older OBDII Subies had a threshold level which was to low and thus would cause the unit to send the CEL aslo I drove through some high water a few miles before the CEL came on.

Give it good whack - Fixed mine for a few months (although I eventaully had to replace it when the cassette player broke

If you think about it - the relationship between the crank and thus the pistons and the cam(s) and thus the valves is fixed by the timing belt (why is clled a timing belt) so moving them together in any direction would make no difference

I had the same problem. Replace the two rubber lines - they are not very long. Also put some teflon grease on the filter nipples when reassembling and you will get them off the next time.

According to my Haynes the fuel sender should read about 50 Ohms when empty and about 0 Ohms when full. Since you changed out both of them it probably is not a sender problem. I think it could be a bad guage or perhaps some "extra" resistance across the guage lead to ground. Probably from some corrosion. THius would cause the guage to never see the 50 ohms empty value.

My 98 OB 122k w/2.5 and 4EAT xmission has started to develop an intermitant problem - while acclerating from stopped or slow speed to say 25 40 MPH. It seems to delay a shift from 2nd to 3rd. It's not slip since the spedo and tach are both moving and it happens rarely although I think it is occuring more often. I can control it a bit with the throtle pedal. I took the car to a trans shop where they ran the codes and found nothing. They also though it could be the TPS but that seems to be ok. I checked the fluid - its level, color and smell are OK (I change it every 25K or so) I looked in my Haynes and it says that the bands may need to be tightened. Yet the trans shop said they don't do that anymore since the trannys are electronically controlled. They suggested that they test drive it with the OBD hooked up and monitor the shift command to see if its a TCU problem. Failling all else they suggested a teardown and inspection for 500 bucks. Any ideas?

I had the same problem in my '98. Ended up having the seal on the oil pump changed (under waranty) Oil was dripping onto the exhaust pipe/header. Stealer knew right away what it was.

Can not seem to open the link to the instructions for cleaning the fel guage sender contacts link below http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1187

I had the same problem removing the hoses at the second filter change. I recommend that you put a little silicone lube on the filter's nipple when you install it. Should make it easier to remove them the next time.

I once heard that a lot of cars with AWD (particularly Audi) license Subaru's AWD patent. Anybody know for sure?

I am a very happy owner of a 98 OB and am thinking of getting another Sube for my wife. Thinking about an '04 Forester. Are thes newer models imune from the torque bind, piston slap and head gasket issues? Are they prone to other problems?

I just changed mine. You need to take the heater/AC control unit out and apart the same as for the other bulbs. The AC light fits sideways in the switch button. Switch slides right out after releasing the integral "clip" This time I bought the little microbulbs from RadioCrap (number is in other posts) and changed the old one out. I think you don't have to deal with the little cover as the bezel in the switch is green. Real easy

Anyone out there know how to remove the samll trim piece infront of the rear wheel well?

You need to adjust the lock on the hatch back. Real easy The switch is part of the lock assy (not the handle or the key lock) at least that's how it is on my 98OB

I use a guy named Al at Al's Garage Also called Auto Plus of Syosset. 516 677 0157 Great work and cheap saved me a bundle when I needed help with Sube AWD groan at slow speed. I found this guy from a Sube owner I met at a party told me he was using him for years. Right near LIRR station which worked out for me as I left the car for a few day when I went on Bus. trave.