Ibreakstuff

If its a TWE, it should be 1 solid piece header (uppipe is part of the header). TWE ran the same turbo themselves and claimed to have made a ea82 wagon faster than stock bugeye wrx's in the 1/4 mile.. with these mods: TWE Stainless steel header with merged collector Top mounted intercooler (Saab 9-3) TWE Modded intake with stainless mandrel bent intake. TWE 2.5" mandrel bent down pipe with high flow cat (Random Tech) and TWE 2.5" Stainless Cat back with HO stainless muffler. Auxillary injector ....pressure controlled, pulse width modulated. TWE fabricated. Garret GT17 dual ceramic ball bearing housing Turbo running 15~16 pounds of boost. Manual 5 speed conversion with 3.90 diffs. LSD rear (I don't doubt this but as someone who has blown up a few ea82t's above 20psi, it's kind of a question of how long will it last)

Did you replace the shaft seal on the oil pump as well? (can be a source of air suckage too) What type of oil pressures are you seeing on cold startup and at warm idle? It is HLA tick most likely, common annoyance on the ea82's. If you are making 10PSI oil pressure for every 1000RPM, everything *should* be fine. But do realize the pressure gauges on the ea82's can be inaccurate, usually reading a bit low. And it is also reading at the pump and not at the heads. I have had success with seafoam, doing top end treatments and adding a bit of marvel mystery like 100 miles *before* doing an oil change. This can free up gunked up oil supply to the HLA's, as well as the HLA's themselves. If you can isolate the noise to a single bank or HLA it might help the diagnosis as well. HLA's can go bad as well, baddies never pump up and will clackey clack endlessly. I use google for searching the forum, like so: site:ultimatesubaru.org ea82 hla tick

And these could be helpful too: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18385-reading-codes-on-94-loyale-edit-92-not-94/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/3992-one-more-timehow-do-you-check-ecu-trouble-codes-on-ea82/ Basically you remove the plastic guard under the steering column to view the LED on the ECU. The process of connecting the test cables is listed in the post(s) above.

Great reference: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/ This still applies to the Loyales -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit I can't recall if you have to connect the test plugs or not with the loyales, I seem to recall my old 90 loyale would show the ECU blinking lights with the key turned on regardless.

It's been a wild few years.. 2 kids, 2 house moves, and 2 company acquisitions since I was lurking last. Finally have all my cars and parts in one place again. Pending projects: 87 RX (ez30d+dr5mt+5lug+H6brakes) (ej22t's have been shelved for a rainy day) 88 RX (ea82t+headstuds+slas's+mls headgaskets) ((blew up my last attempt, but I still have enough parts for 2 more builds)) 07 WRX (engine rebuild, just forged pistons and headwork)

Fuel issue? Clogged fuel filter?

Similar but technically no, true RX's are pretty rare. You could get the gl10 package in a wagon even here in the states.

Theoretical top speed of the FT4WD gearbox (including RX's) and stock tire sizes would be around 139 mph, but you would never get there aerodynamically. The laughable thing to add is that my old 1990 Loyale FWD had super long gears, like 143-145 top speed.. But again you would have to be drafting/slip-streaming a supersonic blue whale to achieve those speeds. Even my 07 WRX is drag limited around 135-137 mph, probably even less now with a huge skid plate and hacked front bumper. I hope you have Z rated tires.

There are 2 forces fighting against you; power limiting speed and drag limiting speed. I wish someone would have made a XT for Bonneville, with it's low co-efficient of drag. But the other EA cars are basically Aero bricks. Edit: Oh I dodged the real question... I will never admit to driving off the speedo in a bone stock 88 RX (125 mph). Nor will I admit a friend in an STI clocking me at 130 mph. And I will, definitely, never admit to attempting that in Oregon on hwy 95 (55 mph limit).

I think the badge engineering really hurt the sales of the BRZ. Including the deal that gave the BRZ lower production numbers and an inflated cost vs the FRS... This was a big part of the reason that I didn't buy one. Focus RS hatch, yummy. Doubt I would buy one of those either, but the original RS's made damn good rally cars. They had so much turn in, you would get neck strain.

Following the proper removal process as well I see.

I was wrong about the SVX rears then, since the rotors are 5x114.3 you would need the rotors from a 00-04 outback. But you could use the backing plates, calipers (with brackets), and parking brake assembly. Unless you have these already, it may be easier to use regular EJ bits. The SVX rotor hat offset is only different in the front. As for the fronts.. Chux is correct.. You would probably want to use regular EJ knuckles and the 2pot calipers with 276x24mm rotors. If you go bigger it may require 17" rims. This post has a ton of good information about rotor sizes, calipers, and part#'s for pads: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631

I should add also, be very careful about the orientation of the backing plate or the trailing arm may block where the parking brake cable exits the backing plate. I ended up thinking about it for a lot longer than it took to fabricate.

No, you would still have 5x100 from the XT6 rear hubs. You would only be using the backing plate, caliper, rotor, and ebrake assembly from an EJ car. Using the EJ (regular or H6) backing plate would give you better brakes and the better parking brake assembly. The center hole in the EJ backing plate is too large and the bolt pattern for that plate is different between EA and EJ.. I personally just cut out and welded the EJ and EA plates to fit.. You also have to drill out 2 holes above the trans/drive shaft tunnel to run the parking brake cables into the cabin. The alternative would be to use a nissan rear caliper that has the ebrake lever on the caliper itself (like the XT6 front calipers), but you would still need to drill holes in the cabin. Examples pics of the rear:

+1 I taught myself to weld on a 80A flux core welder years ago, probably the most cost effective purchase I have ever made at HF. Even after buying an ACDC tig setup, I still keep the gasless welder around for quick and dirty jobs. Definitely will cause warping and distortion if you attempt to run beads on something so thin. You can do a thousand spot welds if you have the patience. Or using a big huge piece of copper or alum behind the sheet metal as a heat sink will help tremendously as well. Flux core welders have their place, if you need something portable or are welding outdoors in the wind... Not much else can beat them. They do leave a dirty fido weld and slag, but the weld should be strong.