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Ibreakstuff

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Everything posted by Ibreakstuff

  1. Ibreakstuff
    Only the fronts are as you describe afaik.
  2. Ibreakstuff
    2008 outback would most likely be ej253 SOHC. If its DOHC, it would be ej254. TY758VCABA-GA: 1st 3.454 2nd 2.062 3rd 1.448 4th 1.088 5th 0.780 Rev 3.333 TR 1.0 FD 4.11 Front Open Center Viscous 4kgf Rear R160+Open
  3. Ibreakstuff
    If you swap the backing plate then yes.. But as gloyale mentioned, It will require a bearing job as the hub/bearing is press fit. It is the backing plate( #2 ) that holds the ABS bung.
  4. Ibreakstuff
    I'm staying away from this post hahaha, far away.
  5. Ibreakstuff
    Thanks Gloyale for confirmation. I forgot that they are press fit, but knew for sure it could be done with the backing plate and hub swapped. I have pulled a few rear hubs at PnP just by hammering out the axle, but was only wanting the backing plates for EA 5 lug. And it likely destroyed the bearings. I only remembered the ABS bung because I had to remove it with a dremel.
  6. Ibreakstuff
    Please read what the OP is asking about, he never mentioned anything about front spindles. Removing the hub is as easy as 2 caliper bolts, if the axle is already removed. And the backing plate is only 4 bolts. He was specifically asking if the REAR spindles are interchangeable.. And the answer is YES.
  7. Ibreakstuff
    Easy is always relative, swapping a backing plate is not a hard task when the OP is considering swapping the entire spindle assembly. I don't see why it wouldn't if you swapped backing plate and hub. Please do correct me if I am wrong tho.
  8. Ibreakstuff
    EPA form 3520-1 and DOT form HS-7 are the major ones for clearing customs. Your local DMV could probably provide the rest of the documents needed.
  9. Ibreakstuff
    It should't be a big deal, you are allowed to import cars from canada for personal use. And most likely the loyale will have all the EPA stickers required for the united states. If you don't want to deal with the paperwork you could have a registered importer broker the deal for you. The CMVSS (canadian NHTSA) uses very similar standards, there are very few models/years that the CMVSS allows but are banned by the NHTSA.
  10. Ibreakstuff
    No way to know definitively, there were at least 3 revisions of the ej22. Piston dish would narrow it down further. Early phase 1 ej22's had a hoof print shaped dish. Then later p1's had a square dish. Then phase 2 motors went interference with flat top piston with valve reliefs. This is all coming from memory, you could probably dig nasioc for more specific information.
  11. Ibreakstuff
    Doesn't the ABS sensor just attach to the backing plate? Which could be swapped easily.
  12. Ibreakstuff
    I missed this question, sorry. I usually leave the whole assembly together and drop it down (do this before you separate the engine/trans or it will get wedged). If I forget/impatient or just don't need it I just rattle it apart.
  13. Ibreakstuff
    No worries, I completely understand. If you encounter any hiccups, let us know. The first one will take awhile, each after that will get faster and easier. Trying to think of any other tips.. If the motor/trans is being stubborn to separate, even with the pressure plate bolts loosened/removed, loosen the lower engine mount bolts and rock the motor side to side/front to back. That's all I got.. good luck.
  14. Ibreakstuff
    Indeed, it changed my approach to working under cars at PnP. Be careful out there. I just punch the pins, the axles (usually) just slip out when pulling the box back/dropping it down.
  15. Ibreakstuff
    There is not, I wish there was.
  16. Ibreakstuff
    Personally I stick my finger in the drain hole looking for metal and then blindly check how well it shifts into each gear. Look for a car that stopped for an obvious reason. At my local pick n pulls most cars are in the air, so my general process is: remove shifter assembly above and below disconnect engine from trans.. (pitch stopper/starter/pressure plate bolts/bellhouse bolts/clutch cable/disconnect trans harness/etc) punch out the axle pins, they will separate when the trans drops stack up a bunch of tires under and drop the transmission onto them using a rattle gun leave the 2 trans x-member bolts for last for "safety" kick out the lowest tire until you can wrestle it out I know I forgot a couple of steps but that is the general idea. Must warn you not to trust the "jack stands" they use at PnP, I've had some close calls. I saw a guy smash his face with a ford explorer gearbox once too, if the shifter/bell housing didn't get wedged dude would be dead for sure 100%.
  17. Ibreakstuff
    I've ordered several sets of permatorque (9392PT) and received totally different gaskets even with the same order. Some are crap.. The good ones are the ones that have the fuji stamp and a bead of viton(?). Personally tho, I think the OEM gasket is the best off the shelf gasket. Both of these are felpro 9392PT: (left being the preferred revision) OEM gasket, for reference:
  18. Ibreakstuff
    I'm with you there, double clutched and matched.. you can stuff it into first at 25-30mph. I would venture to say the same exact closing speed as my wrx if done correctly.
  19. Ibreakstuff
    I once drove from Lake Tahoe Cali to Miami Florida in a beat 200k mile 1994 ford explorer with 2 sets of firestone recall tires. I split a radiator in texas, shredded 2 serp belts of death, had 3 spontaneous tire tread separations, and a exploded power steering pump. Just be thankful you are in a subaru, my guess is your trip will be much more rewarding. Everyone covered pretty much everything, my only tidbit to add is bring/buy more water than you think you need during the entire trip. Of all the prep and tools/parts I gathered for my trip, water ended up being the most precious thing of all when stranded.
  20. Ibreakstuff
    Hrmm, my 87GL has a TM70F FWD 5MT transmission and 1st is definitely synchronized. I would be very surprised if there was anything different internally vs a phase 1 EJ FWD 5MT. With custom carrier bearings you should be able to fit an LSD ment for a AWD 5MT too. A friend did this in a p1 EJ FWD 5MT.
  21. Ibreakstuff
    I ment RS, typo on my part. If the VIN has 1 (or 7 for turbo) in the 7th position, it would confirm its a factory RS. But it doesn't show fwd as a possible combo. I always hear about oddball subaru's, but its rarely confirmed with the VIN. Theoretical fwd RS VIN would be like: JF2AG41BXLB8##### or JF2AG41BXLC8##### (3at vs 5mt). If you find the plate#, I would be willing to pay for a carfax just to confirm the existence. Pics too! Sorry so offtopic Txakura, if I had a straight body RS.. I would keep/restore/restomod it. But as to how collectible or future value, who knows. As Gloyale mentioned, the RX get's the cool award just due to the rally pedigree.
  22. Ibreakstuff
    License plate # would work to find the vin also, if it's still registered with the same plates. Without the VIN to confirm, my guess is that the RX aesthetic package was installed by the dealer or it was a special order.
  23. Ibreakstuff
    I ran a muffler delete on my first loyale, just a 1' slip on pipe from napa. It ended up sounding great and wasn't too loud. I don't think noise will be much of a factor with the ea82 NA. Not sure would delete the cat or go any larger on the header to Y pipe. But everything after the Y pipe is fair game. Heat shields are the first thing to go on any beater I own. Stainless is nice, but expensive and harder to weld. Powder coating might be an option too.
  24. Ibreakstuff
    Success! There are always more than one way to skin a cat, I prefer nailing to a tree and using vice grips (catfish). You can replace it miles fox style still attached to the car. I always pull the spindles and do them on the press (instead of BFH).
  25. Ibreakstuff
    Not 3, the bolt above 3. It will allow you to separate the spindle from the ball joint. The balljoint slips into the spindle and is pinched with that bolt above #3. It's not very easy to separate the control arm from the balljoint (if you tried #3) with out a BJ tool and BFH. If this is your first attempt taking the front assembly apart.. perhaps using Gloyales method would be better.
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