Ibreakstuff

I wish my 2 RX's were in such good shape, I would keep their interiors if they did lol. Thank for for post this. Edit: Such a cool gift for a father too, great story (with some translation)

Eureka! I found a 7/16 stud to match the 5.5... So for anyone who digs this up in the future, the most likely candidates for head studs are.. 7/16" studs: ARP AP5-500-1LB ARP-AP5000-1LB ARP AP6-000-1LB ARP AP5500-1LB 1/2" studs: ARP AR5-250-1LB ARP AR5-750-1LB Edit: stud size for 7/16, see post 113.

Nice, it really does make the most sense for EM. I believe there is a website that sells trigger wheels too. 1/2" head studs came in. The only downside is that they are too tight to fit through 2 of the holes on all 3 sets of heads I have here in the house, its the 2 holes nearest the exhaust port. So my options now are: -Ream/hone the 2 tight head holes ~0.1mm and go for 1/2" -Go for the 5.5" 7/16 stud and make it work with the longer stud (the 7/16 stud should arrive in the next 48, to confirm fitment) Also consider 1/2" stud will require VERY precise drilling/tapping since the head holes would be tightly fit. Perhaps more precise than subaru has them drilled even. 7/16 is making more and more sense. But I was looking for more clamping force than 70ft/lbs (12k preload)... so who knows what I will do lol. 5.75" left and 5.25" right

Beautiful car, just needs a radio now. I like the steering wheel and AC buttons. Welcome to USMB!

I blew up the transfer gears, center diff, and reverse gear on my 07 wrx using Scotty's cocktail @30k miles, I can't say it was the fluid for sure but I do think it contributed to the heat and extra wear. Personally I only use extra-S now, imho it shifts more smoothly anyways. The gearbox has held up for 50k more miles after replacing the broken bits and only using extra-s. Edit: Just to add some clarification.. I purchased the car in 2008 with only like 13k miles on it. The shifting was super crunchy, I thought the transmission was going due to the previous owner so I switched to the cocktail. This per the advice of several subaru friends (who each drove the car) and my own research on nasioc and other forums. I did 4-5 changes with the cocktail and the last 2 I started seeing broken gear bits on the plug. In hindsight, the first thing I should have done was replace the suspect fluid with extra S when I first bought it.. As I believe it was not extra S in there to begin with. This I know to be true: The transfer gears where crumbling months before the diff blew up (yes I know vlsd's are sealed). Subaru looked at it and told me basically to run it until it breaks. They didn't want to pay for the removal/demo/inspection. They also failed to acknowledge the problem during many test drives. Ironically, this is the only reason they honored the warranty repair on it later.. as I broke the center diff at an SCCA rallycross event (subaru sponsored even) and racing usually means they won't fix anything. I still believe the damage to the transfer gears and the diff to be unrelated, so I got lucky there with it all being repaired on their dime. All this said.. I can't blame the cocktail. The damage or issues with the gearbox could have been caused before I ever used it. But I will say that it does turn extremely acidic after a few months, I had 2 buckets next to each other in my garage.. one with used extra S, the other with used cocktail. Its pretty impressive how jacked up some of the bolts/metal, I fished out with a magnet, that were on the cocktail side. If you change at regular intervals fine, but I wouldn't want to store a car for any period of time with it in my gearbox. There is another cocktail floating around too, by Andrewtech (as an alternative to Scotty's): 3 Quarts Redline Shockproof + 1 Quart Motul Gear 300

Badassery. Garage time is where the doing happens, I like your style. Definitely need more meat for that badboy to hookup, sounded like you were feathering it like ice racing. Would you say the 3 door is well suited for the mid swap? How much reinforcement to chassis had to be done? How is the weight balance?

So I emailed SOA awhile back, just reread the email and realized how many mistakes they sent me. The inquiry was about my 87 and 88 RX, nothing about a loyale. "Thanks so much for your email to Subaru of America, Inc as it relates to your 1987 and 1988 Subaru Loyale vehicles. Both of these vehicle do come up as Subaru vehicles in our system but unfortunately, I did not have any information to provide to you as it relates to the production number of each of these vehicles. I can tell you that the 1987 Loyale (HG######) was manufactured on July 1, 1986 and the 1988 Loyale (JG######) was manufactured on July 1, 1989." So apparently Subaru doesn't know what they made, my RX's are loyales, and my 88 was actually made in the future. I still love them.

From the horses mouth (kyb): "We apologize that this is a bit confusing. Both products are identical, except for the product name and paint color. KYB sells products throughout the world. Some part numbers fit vehicles from various countries that share the same chassis platform but, have different nameplates. At one time there were several KYB brand names, but we are now moving toward one name and color. So in the future all new part numbers will be branded as Excel-G and have black paint." So there is no longer a difference, but there are probably differences from the older vs newer stock.

Try nasioc, its been done with super low boost. But a 2.5L or HCF motor would probably give better results. type into google.. site:nasioc.com ej18 boosted

Dangit, second guessing myself with those studs lol. I ordered a single ARP-AP5500-1LB to see if its feasible, before I drill my block(s).

Bummer, I see XT6's waste away here. I usually pull the rear hubs and sway bars, then give it a moment of silence before walking away. A block could be had here at pick n pull super cheap. But they are getting more and more rare. WOW that blower looks like it was made for the er27 intake!! I think it could be even better than a turbo and suits the grunty er27. Thank you for posting this!

I bought 6 mls gaskets for $120 each from gasketstogo, John can make them from whatever template you want to provide. For future ea82 gaskets, it may be cheaper now.. not sure if he saves the dies/tooling (i would hope he does tho). Give him a call for a quote. Regarding head studs, there is a 5.5" apr stud that would probably work for both the longs and short, but it only comes in 7/16". I considered trying them, but it might be pushing it for the longs (.25" ball bearing trick to fully seat the stud would work tho). Thought I should mention it if someone wants to do more homework. Getting to 75% torque load 70ft/lbs on the 7/16" is a lot more reasonable, vs 110ft/lbs on 1/2" studs (scares the hell out of me actually). Re the oil pump. There isn't much meat to go that much deeper into the block, but with some welding it could be done easily. Nncoolg made a post on ausubaru with pictures, it seems doable imho. Hell it might even be possible mill off the pickup/outlet and filter mount.. tap the block and run a bypass filter. But there isn't much room to play with behind the tbelt. Could tap it from inside the pan also and block the front holes. I've been trying not to think about this because I will just want to do a dry sump.. My to do list for the next month or so: (time/money permitting) build the first longblock megasquirt v3.0 diy + harness (ahh the fumes) figure out the fuel system (evo injectors/pump/surge, goodies for e85) exhaust header (moar fumes) awic (type 14 + type 118) I wish I was rich.

Cracked oil pickup would be my concern, know anyone with a scope?

One day, that er27 turbo project idea will bite me. But my garage is full of spoob to break before I get to the project before that project lol. Speaking of er27, has anyone ever successfully converted an er27 oil pump to use with a ea82 block? I've seen a few posts flirting with it here and there. Edit: Or what about milling the block to fit a er27 sleeve/impeller with a er82 pump body/pulley.

Headstuds ordered! 90ft/lbs here I come? Btw: ARP tech support is pretty useless, they don't even know what they sell.. And they ask for way more measurements than they are prepared to calculate. Summit tech support + my redneck math has hopefully guided me properly. Shorts: ARP AR5-250-1LB Longs: ARP AR5-750-1LB "Effective stud length" is a deceptive term, apparently for these studs it means the entire length.. 1.25" threads at each end. So 1/2-13 drilled to 1.5" depth with .25" counterbore (depth close to stock). I was going to go with steel inserts (timesert or fulltorque) but I might as well keep that option for a backup plan. I will feel a bit dirty having a 9/16th 12pt in the toolbox.

If you check row52.com it will show if the car is turbo or not. They update the entire pick n pull inventory. If you are looking at the one in chico, it's definitely a turbo. I've been tempted to go see if it still has its LSD.

Thanks for posting the scans Gloyale!

Physically they should bolt right in. There should be a connector below both seats for the airbag sensors, this may be what the seat uses for a power source also. The only way to know 100% for sure is to confirm the connector/same on both.

Wow, it beat the spoob out of that retainer! I'm surprised it didn't just throw the rocker arm! I played with a gutted HLA too but like you found, I was less than impressed by the accuracy when locking it via a hex bolt from the bottom. It was a huge pita to dial in. Subaru used to sell shims for adjust solid lash, that could just be fit inside the gutted HLA body.. but they have long been discontinued. The method that the Subaru rally teams used in the late 80's for setting lash on solid lifter was to: Remove the cam cases and the sealant. Reattach w/couple bolts hand tight, flush to the head, then measure the lash with feeler gauges. You want to gauge with lobe @ 12 o'clock (away from the head, rotate motor by hand). Then mic the lifters out of the head and +/- from the measurements from before. Double check, then seal/torque it. Cold lash of 0.20-0.24mm is listed using this method, but that seems pretty loose imho. I'm personally going to shoot for around 0.17mm cold. And you are correct about the cam's, I believe solid lifter cams profiles generally have ramps. I will be sending mine off to delta eventually anyways. Bennie, were you the guy that had one of those prototype ea72 motors in a barn? I seem to recall this from another forum or searching google.

What year/models have the digidash? I'll keep an eye out for dash clusters.

re: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130617-inner-cv-axle-doj-came-apart-can-i-just-put-it-back-in-and-go/

Inside the cup, there should be a weird shaped clip (gc/gd's have a big c-clip). It might be covered by grease.

Oh and I have all but decided on 1/2" head studs, they should be pretty tight in the holes of the heads. But I'm thinking this is a good thing for keeping everything snug. And even with studs, I should still be able to pull the cam case to adjust the lash (still in the car). If the SLA's didn't have to be set to 65ft/lbs, I would consider some crows foot wrenches to reach in with the cam case still on.

Just from eyeballing it, they should fit. The SLA's and the"mouse trap" clips are for the 2.3 Ford lima/pinto motor (aka metric/ministock motor). The set I bought came from a company named A.C.E., but esslinger and others do make sets for that motor. The body of the SLA has to be cut down, I'm not sure how much I will cut the first set yet.. Probably flush with the HLA sleeve. I am going on a junkyard run on sunday, I'll try to find a few other OHC motors to check for rockers/followers.

This is what I have been doing, every time I am at pick n pull I yank a few valve covers. Ford 2.3/2.5 rockers are too long, mitsu DSM/4g and ecotec motors look too small. From center of the ball to center of where the valve stem contacts is ~42mm Also, the location of the roller and the shape/width of the valve contact has to work too. If I was rich, I would have Jesel whip up a few sets on their CNC lathe. I was joking about milling some 4140 round bar.. but it would probably work. Cool read: http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/turning-is-optional