Ibreakstuff

That would probably work fine, definitely better than stock bolts. I still have not crossed this road yet tho, I'll post here if I find any other solutions for studs. Paeco studs are grade 8, which is around 150k PSI tensile strength (~400$ for a set with nuts, ).. Arp is around 180k PSI, but custom 11mm studs would kill a good portion of my budget.

"Gaskets to go" Its a company ran by an ex-pat based in Thailand. They are fairly popular in the VW scene. They make custom MLS gaskets with no min quantity or tooling fees. The alternative would just be to run felpro permatorques and cross my fingers.

I wanted to increase the head torque to at least 60-65 psi, with timeserts so I don't chew threads. The jury is still out, but I would love to find a common thread size/pitch arp studs in the correct lengths. The alternative is to have some paeco studs made (grade 8). What is the tensile strength of B9 threaded rod? And is it torque to yield? I'll be running a stock wrx TD04L, so I don't expect to be pushing the boost pressures beyond its efficiency. And not even close until all the supporting mods are sorted. And I am going to try a MLS head gasket first, If that doesn't hold I'll look into ringing the block and/or copper gaskets.

While I do see your point, this project is strictly for learning purposes.. So why the hell not go full tilt and have some fun with it. I have an ej255 wrx motor waiting to be built as well, but I've always wanted to build a monster ea82t. This motor will be beat on in autox/rallyx so I don't expect to get 100k out of it, but I would like to see what it is actually capable of. When I get bored with it, I'll move on and swap it. I thought all motors are disposable? This whole project came along due to a car crash and a whim..

By my redneck calculations, I need rods in the neighborhood of ~118mm 4.6457" (center to center) depending on several variables yet to be determined.. which seems very short. I guess shorter = stronger? The rod:stroke ratio would actually be ideal if close to that. dh - (ct + ch) bore: 3.622" 92mm stroke: 2.6378" 67mm deck height: ~7.25" ~184.15mm crank throw: 1.3189" 33.5mm compression height of ej20 cp piston: 1.285" 32.639mm

Yea 2.5 swap would be very similar, same adapter plate. The wiring merge might be a bit more difficult depending on the heads/intake/wiring/ecu you choose. Everyone picks the 2.2 because its more reliable, less prone to HG issues. Check out Numbchux conversion guide here, bonus are a few manuals as well: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm Yea searching helps. I do many hours of research before attempting even the most modest modifications. Google is perhaps the easiest way to find things, eg try this: site:ultimatesubaru.org ej swap

Possible, yes.. These cars are lego's and many different combos will bolt up. Would it have an ideal compression ratio, not sure. The most common combo is a NA 2.5 shortblock with NA 2.2 heads, creating a high compression NA hybrid. You can do similar hybrids with newer turbo motors also. Check this out: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631527 page 14: "simple version of franken motor combos: engine block + heads= "best" p2 2.5 + p2 2.2: highest compression ratio (stock gasket) better manifold options, decient heads good p1 2.5 + p2 2.2 again good manifold options and decient heads p2 2.5 + p1 2.2 dual ports (header options & possible better flow than single ports) p1 2.5 + p1 2.2 dual ports ok p2 2.5 + p1 2.2 single ports p1 2.5 + p1 2.2 single ports thats for running completely stock, aka slaping it together and going."

Interesting. Ea wrist pins are 21mm, ej's are 23mm. I never considered that an EA rod would fit an EJ wrist pin. I'll to take another look at the ea rods. Can you measure the compression height of the ea and 2.0 turbo pistons (center of wrist bore to top of piston)? This is the one measurement I have not been able to take yet. Yep, the 48mm crank bore rods are from phase 1 ej motors. The deck height on the EA82 block is much smaller (~184.15mm) than the ej205 (201mm) so the rod might have to be even smaller. I'm waiting on more accurate mics and a new bore gauge (in the mail), when they arrive I'll measure everything out and confirm. Lol, blue skying would pretty much sum up every idea I have had for this car. Interesting idea there tho, I'll look at other makes too then. When I get everything measured out I'll start contacting all the pistons makers, they could have an off the shelf piston for another make with the right specs. I'm jumping a similar hurdle for head studs.

I have been researching forged pistons/rods for a few weeks now, just wanted to post an idea for more advice. I only found 1 post with a similar idea but nothing came from it. It should be possible to use off the shelf ej20 92mm pistons with custom connecting rods (shorter, length not yet calculated) with the EA crank pin bore size (48mm) right? I understand that the dish volume will have to match to keep the CR close but flat top off the shelf pistons should be doable. Are there any other issues that could arise from this that I have not thought about? The benefits would be a larger (offset?) wrist pin and possibly more affordable vs both custom forged rods and pistons. Please don't tell me to ej swap, I'm being serious here.

Congrats! How do you like the haltech ecu? And how much did it set you back?

Nope, ea82=non-interference

I agree, reluctantly. ea82 spfi is a fun motor to tinker with but will never make much more than 100hp. Tho I learned a lot from my old spfi motors so there is some sentiment. An ej swap would be the smarter path to take. I was just pointing out that anything can be done with time and money. I am currently building an ea82t for rallyx, 225 hp at the crank does not sound like a difficult goal to reach. I guess I am an idiot for taking the illogical route.. something something path of least resistance makes rivers crooked, blah blah. You should ask your honda friend to have a different kind of contest. Lets say you both leave your cars on a street in San Francisco.. first to get stolen is the loser. I have a friend with a civic, his car has been taken for a joy ride about 5 times in the last couple years.

Dang, lots of ea82 hate in here. Proof is in the pudding: (85 RX EA82T 286bhp @ 19psi) Imho, it would take a lot more money to reach those numbers with a b20.

Man on the moon hit the nail on the head. I find that the best way to search this forum is using google, example search string: site:ultimatesubaru.org ea82 pros cons

Awesome! NP FOR SURE! (even tho it is a little high) Edit: Man people in the comments are pretty harsh, but I guess a little rust doesn't scare me like most people.

The good: decent gas mileage NA ea82 motor is pretty reliable easy to work on with a basic metric tool set The bad: leaks like sieve (usually from cam seals or oil pump) rust if you live where they salt the roads Congrats on your purchase!

Lol, well I don't claim to be anything other than a novice with a thirst for knowledge. Excellent resume of cars you have there there, well except that honda but I won't hold that against you haha. I spoke to RAM about pistons, but they only have .02 over @ 9.5:1, which wouldn't be too high with proper tuning but I would rather something around 8-9:1. I will have to inquire about HG's to see what they use. I've decided not to oring the block until it becomes a problem, I think head studs themselves might be enough. My hp goal are not much higher than you, but I plan to rallyx the car and i'm pretty hard on them while racing. I broke my wrx so many times ($$$) that I realized I needed to take a step back. I took apart a blown DR (stripped 2nd gear) in order to get more familiar with it, I was very surprised how similar they are to EJ boxes. That would be a cool mod for the trans, more of a wheeling setup right? I believe rebuild kits for the LSD can be found through nissan still. There is a great write up in the Dime Quarterly archives explaining how to rebuild them in detail too (the dime is a datsun 510 zine). I'll hang on to the original flat intake, I was planning on some dyno time for tuning the ESM. If I do, I'll test it out and see. Not sure why I always had the (mis)conception that clutch fans robbed more power than efans. I've always hated them on the fords I have owned, mainly because it was such a pita to remove them lol. Thanks for serving! What branch/job?

Motor is coming out next week, the first task will be taking measurements for head studs and pistons. I would like to find a more common arp stud size and just install some thread inserts (time serts or full torque FST/FSD) . If that is not possible, I'll order some 11mm studs from paeco. Its odd that paeco's flanged nuts are so expensive too, I'll probably just buy arp nuts and washers. Sleep time! I have a full day of errands to run tomorrow.

Thanks for the tips mdcc2010! Adding more things to the "do more research" list lol. I'll look into a higher amp alt and that 2 row radiator. Just thinking based on EJ technology, wouldn't the larger plenum and long runners on the spider be a definite advantage? I guess if the bottleneck is in the heads neither would have an advantage. I know that EJ NA intakes breathe a lot better with supporting mods and larger turbos, but at what point does it become beneficial is the question. I do see you point about getting to things, I don't mind that much tho, just an excuse to get out in the garage. Yep, I'm looking to get a custom header/up made so I can fit a EJ downpipe. It would be nice if one of those TWE headers fell into my lap. Deciding on which turbo has been puzzling me too. The 3 easiest options would be a t035 (forrester), vf11 (free from a friend), or the td04l I have sitting around. The t035 would spool a lot faster, but the other 2 are free lol. I was planning on doing a MAF delete or at least have MAP take over under throttle. But I still need to build a MS and figure out which is best for me, before I start going edward scissor-hands on the wiring. And I agree, AWIC sounds pretty awesome. It would probably be ideal for rallycross (short runs). I hate the idea of a hood scoop but I've been pondering an AWIC setup with a radiator mounted like a tmic and a reservoir to hold a larger capacity of water. I'm not too into stickers and BOV noises either, but I'm definitely tempted to cut a hole in the hood. Some torque cams could be nice. I don't really care about top end hp, I want the power down low.

Nice up skirt shot, that sway bar looks pretty beefy. Its been said over and over, but amazing build.

Thanks much! I'm super excited to start a new project. Those damn hondas. My friend asked me if the other driver was bane: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAMCCvhte1U

Slightly off topic, have you ever used the norms thread repairs (ns300l) on the northstar blocks? I've been curious if these would be stronger than timeserts since they have longer inserts (they do have m11x1.25 inserts). Seems to be highly recommended: http://huhnsolutions.com/

One thing to mention, sorry if you already know it. When you cut a spring the spring rate actually increases (stiffer). It looks like you have mega preload right now so i'm not saying its the wrong thing to do.. Just something to keep in mind if you start looking for softer springs later. On my old 3door, I took a way taller but softer spring and cut it down several inches and ended up with something stiffer than stock with the preferred ride height. Awesome job with the bushing btw.

Wow, can I quit my job and become your welding apprentice? I'll provide a lifetime supply of dr pepper in trade. Seriously tho, nice work on the rear suspension.

Amazing adventure, this is what subarus are all about. +100000