Ibreakstuff

Right on! Sorry if I sounded like a prick then lol. I didn't mean to imply that lemons is a bad thing, I think its awesome and would love to build a car for it sometime. I have friends who have built cars for and raced lemons. But that said, it only takes one novice driver to take you out. The type of rallyx I was talking about tho is just time trials, single car at a time... autocross on dirt. Not the global rallycross beat your car up variety. My real goal was to save another RX from the junkyard/crusher. I would have been interested in it even if my didn't recently total my 3 door loyale (not my fault, head on crash). I search pretty much every morning for any RX's in a 500 mile radius just looking for them. I literally sprint in a panic to picknpull if I ever see an XT or RX within a few hours drive. Good luck in your adventures, I hope you guys find a lemons car. PM me if you do and I'll come out and watch you race. If you need a crew member to guard the beer, I am your man. Update: I have my garage cleaned out, wrx is going into storage tomorrow. I'll post pics of the engine tear down in the next week or so.

Yea, I always thought florida had the worst drivers.. But nope its definitely california. I pulled the trigger on the RX, I'm going to clean out my garage and spend a couple months building it properly.

Time serts! I was just reading about how bmw guys replace block threads with time serts and torque them to 90lbs. Helicoils technically could be stronger than the original threads too, if installed correctly.

I use just a battery tie down rod to pull wrist pins, its terribly redneck.. but I grew up in lousiana so its ok. Edit: wow I guess someone beat me to it lol, I left this page open for a few hours before sending the reply.

First off, I know... really I know... I shouldn't be dumping money into this motor.. Recipe for disaster or deliverance? defeating HG issues: o-ring block (and/or heads) + felpro permatorques head studs (paeco studs - arp nuts) keeping her cool: 2 row radiator (or wrx rad if I can fit it) beefy oil cooler huge bypass filter for extra capacity tmic or awic (air water might be better for rallyx) dual electric fans (clutch fan delete) better fueling: walbro 255l inline fuel pump larger injectors (240sx?) symmetrical fuel lines/rails piggyback/standalone (emanage or megasquirt) innovate wideband o2 other goodies: forged pistons (keep 7.7:1?) spider intake more reliable turbo: -I have a td04 + uppipe/downpipe but not sure that the best fit -was offered a vf11 for free, with no shaft play (might spool faster?) air oil separator custom exhaust header, unless I can find a TWE one. (keeping about the same diameter for spool/torque) Anything I am missing anything? Why do I like to learn everything the hard way?

Rallyruss gave me a turbo crossmember that was modified for a slightly wider track width. In the same way Steve mentioned, he welded some heavy duty washers and drilled the LCA holes about 1/2" wider on each side. I'm planning to have it reinforced with some thicker plate on my new RX for rally/rallyx. This resolved the rubbing and bind with the stock crossmember with reamed out holes for the larger bolt. It gives a little bit more neg camber too which is a plus imho. With the stock crossmember and legacy knuckles, the fwd impreza axles were a pretty tight fit.. So the wider crossmember probably helps the half shaft longevity as well.

Car crashes suck! Good luck to you, hope your wife is just sore and not hurt badly. Looks like a pretty hard hit, it amazing how newer subies hold up in a crash.

Rotate the picture to the left and it looks like a smile.

Starting this journal for my new ride.. I ended up driving like mad to Dayton, NV from San Fran @5am last thursday in order to beat another potential buyer to it. Thank goodness I beat them there or it would have been cut up for a lemons race.. My buddy let me borrow his tow rig (f350 turbo diesel ambulance ftw lol) but I had to make a couple trips between reno and dayton to get it towed... Then the next evening, within 3 hours of getting the car into California it got impounded for being a "suspicious vehicle". I had dropped it off at my in-laws house for the night, in their driveway but next to the road (they were not home at the time).. random sheriff drove by and noticed the lack of plates and ran the vin. It came up blank since it was titled in Nevada, so the jerk had it towed ($450). On top of this I had to make another trip with the tow rig to get it out of impound.. All this plus the random engine issues, I think I'll name the car Murphy. The good: -Clean chassis with no accidents -No bad rust in the usual places -All stock The bad: -The ea82t has issues, previous owner said headgasket(s) are blown. But I think its actually a blown turbo with leaking coolant lines. (HG's are probably bad too, picked up some permatorques) -Some rust/pitting in the paint in certain places My goals are really just to tinker with the ea82t (my first mpfi) and possibly rallycross it eventually. List of potential upgrades: -5 lug (already have everything including the rear handbrake parts) -gut the interior (previous owner was a smoker) -Full reseal of the ea82t, every gasket/seal/hose to be replaced (inc tbelts and oil/water pumps) -Dual core radiator with dual electric fans -Friend has a vf11 with no shaft play, trading one of my spare 3.7 LSDs for it -fab/buy uppipe/downpipe -Racing seat/harness -TMIC or AWIC (not sure which I should go for yet) -Oil cooler/Bypass filter/Oil separator -Looking for head studs and forged pistons -Spider intake if I can get my hands on one -Water injection -O-ring block and/or heads -Fuel system upgrades (whatever I can do that will still pass smog, so maybe just symmetrical fuel rails and upgraded injectors/fuel pump) -(did I miss anything?) My old ride: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136944-rip-3door-ill-miss-you/ Check out how much oil was found in the turbo and between the turbo and in the intake: (lol @ pool of oil sitting inside the turbo)

Wow that's crazy then, good thing these are non-interference motors lol. You would have thrown that belt eventually, for sure. When you attempt to pull the crank pulley and it doesn't want to budge.. Use a long breaker bar against the sub frame (near the battery) and bump the starter. Make sure the socket fits tightly so you don't strip it, I use a cut up tee shirt between the bolt and socket to insure a tight fit.

I ditched my timing belt covers, kept destroying them after removing/installing them over and over.. But it looks like in this case it might be keeping that pulley from falling out lol. I can't really tell with that cover on, but it looks like the bolt just came loose. And i'm sure that would make quite an awful noise. Edit: Or maybe zukiru is right and its just going bad and the heat is melting the cover.

Just an update: Adjuster offered me ~3k for my car, after some negotiations. This plus loss of use and repayment for missed work seems fair and enough for me to find another ride. Started physical therapy, man ive never had a 90 lbs lady put the hurt on me so much before. Feeling a lot better tho, pain is manageable. I won't see a medical settlement for months. After looking at my car more, it is just not worth it to try and reclip it. I found an 88 RX with a blown headgasket (might be rad/tstat not sure yet), body is in great shape. Planning to check it out early next week.. I also found an ez30 phase 2 for $500 with ecu and harness. I might just buy both and swap it asap. I was already in the process of putting an OBX front LSD into a DR gearbox, not sure how that would hold up to the ez30 tho. I have a 07 wrx transmission that could be used also (3.7 final drive would work with my clsd rears). I actually prefer open center+LSD front and back, cuz I've blown a couple vlsd centers but if it can't be done I could live with it. Was tempted to just buy my gf another car and take her 94 Impreza.. But I still have love for the ea82's and I have so many spare parts its ridiculous.

Yep, i'm doing everything I can to make sure they pay for everything. I got news from the Orthopedic Dr yesterday, I have an acute compression fracture in my L2 vertabrae.. so on top of everything I broke my back and I'll be in this brace for a min of 3 months. Probably going to pay a friend in beer to help me strip the loyale, not sure how much I can get done solo now. And btw the strut towers are straight but the frame rails at tweaked.. so I am definitely looking for another coupe or sedan ea82.

No doubt, I will never again leave such heavy parts unsecured in the back of my vehicles. Motor turns over but the radiator/support took out the timing belt. I went to the ER today, I have 1 compressed disc in the middle of my back and strained neck/back muscles. The doc said I should follow up with an ortho. Definitely going to fight them if they lowball. Thanks for the input. No matter what I am getting my parts off the car, fivelug, suspension and drivetrain bits. Thanks man, but it really is easy to get attached to these little suckers. The crumple zones definitely worked as intended lol.. everything up front is tweaked to the right. Looks like my extra heavy duty strut tower brace probably kept the towers square. I have some rally friends that should be able to help with getting the frame straight, should I need to go that route. The bummer is right now I have a broken wrx in my single car garage, so I have 2 cars out of commission now. They meter maids are pretty crazy here about moving cars too. Just noticed this on CL, tho they might be asking a little too much but it looks clean: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3662104867.html

Thanks for the support guys, Im going to see about reclipping the front end if its at all possible.The passenger door doesn't quite open or shut correctly and there are some wrinkles you can't seen the pictures.. so I am afraid the unibody is a little bit tweaked. I'm pretty sore right now, so I have not had a chance to go out and look at it. I had 2 LSD's in a tuffbox stored in the back, and they broke the box and hit me in the back during the impact.. A lot more sore than I thought I would be. Its going to hurt more when they offer me $800 to total it, I've spent hundreds of hours wrenching on this car.

So yea today a honda pulled out in front of me (head on) in the city, nothing I could do........ Not even sure what to do at this point. I guess I strip it and look for another shell.

I would check the fusible links first, grey/black box behind the battery. They are somewhat loud when they blow.

Its a lot easier if you just pull the headlights, then you don't have to pull the bumper/fenders. The hardest part to reach being the plastic ties on the lower radiator support. I got away without pulling the dash too, but the driver side fender liner does have to come out. And installing it would probably be a hell of a lot harder! I have learned so much in the last couple years from pick-n-pull lol. This is what I did and has been running for the past year or 2, the problem is that it pops a CEL (code 51). And runs a bit weird. The CEL and high idle keeps me from passing smog, tho there are ways to get around that. This is what I was looking for!!! Thank you so much, I'll give this a try in the AM and post back with confirmation. Now that I take a second look at the wiring diagram.. I do see that pins 32, 1, 46, and 13 are designated for AT. I feel dumb that I did not see these before.

No TCU on the 3at Thanks for the lead Tom, the kickdown control seems like a good suspect. I'll test those pins today.

I wish I could figure out which pin that would be, looking at the schematics I can't seem to find it. It definitely still thinks its auto tho per the 08 identification code, would show code 07 if it was cali manual (which is what the ecu came from). In "auto" mode the neutral switch is on to start, then off when in gear. In manual mode it is reversed, so currently I am not able to wire in the neutral switch directly from the transmission. Also in auto mode, if the switch is continuously on it gives a CEL and code 51. I guess I could just wire in a toggle switch to the inhibitor for starting only, this to prevent it from popping the 51 code (at least to smog). The only adverse effects that I have noticed day to day are a higher than normal idle and lifting off throttle too fast will try to throw my face into the steering wheel. I believe both of these would be resolved with the correct fueling from the ECU with a working neutral switch. Maybe my understanding of how it works is skewed, please someone correct me if I an wrong.

So i've been driving my 1990 loyale with a 5mt swap (fwd) for a couple years now. Its smog time again (california); so instead of taking the dash apart again to hack the check engine light again I am looking to fix the issue properly.. I am wondering, what exactly tells the ECU that the car is auto/manual? Is there a pin that needs to be grounded or jumped? I've scoured over hundreds of forum posts and the manuals I have access to and cannot find the exact solution. Notes: -Car was originally FWD 3AT -Currently swapped 5MT fwd -Currently using an ECU from a 5MT loyale (still thinks its automatic) -Only showing ECU codes 08 (ca automatic) and 51 (neutral switch) I'm tempted to do a full wiring swap, as I already have the bulkhead harness from a 5mt loyale.. Which would give me the correct transmission connectors. But swapping the body harness doesn't sound like much fun. Anyone familiar with this? Most people seem to just jump the inhibitor switch and call it done.

05 wrx tophats will fit but you may need to slot the strut holes some. Just a word of caution tho, the huge GD/legacy OEM spring.. 148mm at the bottom, just barely fits in my strut towers. The lower spring perch rubbed slightly, I used a bfh and an angle grinder to give it some more room. Trying to find some affordable coilovers is a pain, I found some good used front cusco coilovers with blown pillow ball bearings, just have to press in/out a new bearing and my fronts will be sorted. On the hunt for rears with a similar problem. This seems to be the only benefit to the pot holes here... blown pillow ball mounts all over the place.

Nice!!! I need to talk to Odi and get me some Feal gravel coilovers made. I wish $ grew on trees.

Oh no, this car was raised about 3 feet off the ground. And no wheels left hehe (i took that wheel from another car). I scratched my head for about 15 minutes, 24v my rattle gun couldn't even break it loose.

-Did you replace with an OEM rad? -Are you sure that the temp sensor working properly? -Does your heater blow hot? Pulling the clutch fan should have helped a lot. I ran without one for almost a year in the bay area (mild/cold temps) with normal op temps. On hot days it would creep up so I put it back on. I've considered replacing both fans with slim electrics, one on the tsensor and the other on a toggle switch for very hot days (or rallycross). Here's the cooling section of the 89 fsm: http://www.scribd.com/doc/114593551/ea82-cooling-system