Ibreakstuff

Oh, I was having problems breaking a rear axle nut loose today with a car that was off the ground. I could have probably tinkered with it and locked the center diff but came up with this method.. thought I should share lol.

Well partial score, no body kit or spoiler but I got another LSD and more rear arms with sway mounts. Finally I can put the fat rear sway on.

Yea lol, I read something about that before pulling the 2wd wagon springs. (I always have to learn everything the hard way anways.) I thought the springs would be the same but the 2wd wagon springs I pulled were significantly taller than 4wd springs. Heading out at 5am to drive 300 miles, to look at a 87 RX parts car. I'm taking home as many parts as I can pull before running out of daylight. Hopefully the spoiler/body kit/rear arms/lsd/gearbox are still there. Kinda going on a whim lol, no idea what actually left on the car. From what I am told it is rusted out pretty bad. Here are those 2wd wagon springs on 4wd struts (before cutting them)... so much preload they had zero travel..

Nice, if its too far gone you could always fab up a rear diff bracket on a 2wd subframe. That mounting bar, we call it the mustache bar. I assume it got the name when some drunk subieholic put it up to his face and looked thru the 2 bolt holes.

Definitely, if I didn't live in the city I would be collecting parts cars lol. Yep, you needed to swap out that fwd rear subframe anyways. Good luck with your project! I just need to bleed the brakes on mine and she's back on the road. I'll get some pictures when it stops raining everyday.

Thanks for that info, I remember reading that post regarding miata shocks. I even had it bookmarked lol. The subaruxt post is amazing too, I had to BFH my 07 front struts and smooth out he inside of the strut tower to gain clearance similar to the guy in the post. A camber/caster plate could probably resolve the issues in the front without moving/removing metal. I almost pulled the trigger today on some used ksport gravel coilovers for a BP legacy, one of them was leaking pretty bad and needed a rebuild or I would have. I guess eventually I need to pay up and get some proper coilovers lol. We will see how many rallycross events I can do next year before the kyb gr2's blow up. If I find some cheap multilink legacy shocks I'll try to fit them and take a bunch of pictures.

First off, I should have found this thread before I posted up my ft4wd dr/dccd thread lol. You already had all the answers I needed here lol. Excellent post! A friend of mine raced a few stage rally seasons with an obx front in a fwd GC transmission, left foot braking definitely helps transfer power. They can be rebuilt fairly easy with upgraded bolts and washers. Using a dremel to clean up some of the cheap manufacturing flaws can go a long way as well. They are just too cheap not to tinker with. Being a straight quaife knock off they do the job pretty well, its the cheap production that causes problems. If you run one right out of the box expect some metal sludge on your drain plug. Here's a decent post on DI with info on rebuilding an obx.. loren also installs a beefy vlsd center as well (interesting read even if you don't want to go with an obx): http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17129

Just throwing out an idea here.. Has anyone tried to fit 05-09 BP Legacy wagon rear shocks on a ea82 chassis? I didn't realize that subaru had gone back to a regular shock design (single mounting point at the bottom). Im tempted to buy a set to see if the tophats can be swapped. I just bought new gr2's and cut down some 196lbs 2wd wagon spring to 11 inches (~210-230 lbs now). Not sure if the BP rear shocks would actually be an upgrade. I am unsure of the spring or damper rates on the BP legacy wagons as well..

Nice, the white with black trim looks good! Lol yea that rear camber might cause some problems. Its always nice to start with a whole parts car, every single piece of my recent swap came from a different car!

5 lug is done, finally I can get rid of all of my 4 lug rims! Big front sway bar and strut tower brace fitted as well. It was raining all weekend, I still need to flush the old PS pump and finish installing the new steering rack. Issues I ran into: -The radius rod bolts strip VERY easily and are VERY hard to break loose. I used a floor jack under my 3 foot breaker bar to keep the socket seated while breaking it loose. It helps to leave the sway bar attached when doing this. Impact would not budge these on my car. You can lock the topside of the bolt by using a wrench pinched against the other bolt head. -Lower spring perch from the 07 struts was rubbing the inside lip of the strut tower. And some of the bolts on the driver side strut tower were a little long too (coil mount and ground bolt). BFH and an angle grinder made quick work of both problems. I just shaved enough for clearance turning lock to lock. More pictures soon..

Here's my formula: when oil psi x 100 is < rpm = SHIFT! I just did a oil pump reseal tho, so every shift should be redline right?

I know nothing about carbs but the "boiling" noise could just be air running thru your heater core. Mine does this if all the air isn't purged/burped out of them system.

The way I always do it is: disconnect the sway bar, take off the crown nut that holds the ball joint and control arm together (found under the spindle), then pop it out of the control arm. Leave everything else attached and maybe turn the wheel out and it should give plenty of room to get the axle out. The tie rod and strut bolts should not have to be removed.

I'll take some pictures of those in the next week. The mustache bar mounts are on the car already, but the carrier mount won't go on until I get my gearbox figured out. I'll take a picture of what I came up with tho.

I'll post a small update with some teaser pictures. Real life has been kicking me in the nuts so I have not been able to work on this project as much as I have wanted to. I've been tinkering with the gearboxes too, still not sure which direction I want to go yet.. torsen front/open center/clutch lsd rear seems to be the cheapest, but the idea of dccd or vlsd center is pretty tempting. Done so far: rear 4wd trailing arms fitted rear legacy brakes fitted rear handbrake fitted rear suspension sorted In the next 24 hours, I should have this done: steering rack swap front struts fitted front spindles fitted I did not realize that FWD wagon springs were so tall, so I cut them down to 11 inches to fit the rear shocks without too much preload. That should put them to ~220 lbs. They feel much much much better than the stock springs. I'm doing a rallycross this weekend so we will see how it does. And the goods: Bling bling some throw back 5zigen fireballs?!?

I am in the process of swapping my 1990 fwd loyale coupe (same chassis as yours).. so we are in the same boat. The only 2 things that are not plug and play are the driveshaft (carrier) bearing mount and the mustache bar mount. My chassis had holes for neither, yours probably won't either. !! You don't need a different gas tank, fwd tank should have the dimple (same tank as awd?). And the drive shaft is the same length on the wagon/coupe. I made a carrier bearing mount out of 1 inch square bar. And drilled out/bolted in the mustache bar mount. You could have a 1 piece driveshaft made to avoid fabricating a driveshaft bearing mount. I started a thread on my swap but I have not posted any updates or pictures yet. I'm going one step farther and swapping to 5 lug + rear handbrake. I'll post up some updates/pictures soon... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134242

Is the 88 leone coupe the same as the USDM 3door? You said EA71 is that referring to the body or the engine?

Awesome, that's what I have.. a few 89 rx boxes. No EJ engine for the 3door yet, but I would probably still want to keep the dual range. Can't beat the poor mans 6 speed. And the car is just a rallyx project, mainly for learning and fun.. So 1.196 low is fine, esp if I'm dropping the pinion/ring to 3.9/4.11/4.44. Thanks for the heads up, I had a suspicion it was possible. I have seen dccd tail sections sell on iclub/nasioc for reasonable prices, some people just want the gearset and ditch/sell off the tail section. Its now on the wish list lol. My head is spinning now, not sure what I want to do next lol. The idea of a dual range lsd front/dccd center/lsd rear in 500$ car sounds kinda hot. With a HCF it would be a cheap little rally destroyer. I guess a vlsd center would probably work fine too. I guess I should stop typing and go work on the bucket.

Ahh I see what you mean, so technically it could be phase 2 5mt even tho it was first made in 1994? If so, the dccd tail section will only bolt up to 99+ USDM 5mt's, bummer. I am getting conflicting reports on if early v4 STI RA 5mt's are phase 1 or phase 2 tho, maybe there is hope? If the v4 STI RA tail section is phase one then.. 89 RX DR case halves/gearset + ej pinion shaft/ring gear + v4 STI RA phase 1 dccd tail section = win?

Ive been going thru all of my used transmissions, just had a lightbulb moment.. Does anyone know if it would it be possible to swap the transfer case from a JDM dccd 5MT onto a 87-89 RX FT4WD dual range box? Or anyone know of someone who has attempted it? Much like stuffing in a EJ gearset it should fit phyiscally right?

Yep, I was tempted to just drill the plates out and use it like so but was worried about how well it would hold up to rally abuse. A welded plate on top seems to be the way to go. The ABS crap is just the part where the sensor was attached, its a small little tube and a welded nut. I just need to dremel the welds to remove them completely. I guess I could just leave them but it would give more room to weld.

Yep, got both of them and their bolts. I'm going to attempt to drill and tap and reuse the same hardware. If this doesn't work I'll drill it out and use bolts like you did. Thanks again for those pictures, my head doesn't hurt as much now. The plan for the rear brakes is to cut a small template out of the old backing plates.. Weld it on top of the legacy backing plate and just redrill the holes. The 2 hurdles are removing the abs crap and figuring out the proper orientation that the calipers need to be at. I'll try to take some pictures. Was planning get moving on the swap this weekend but my better half wants us to go visit friends in sacramento..

Came home last night with rear brakes from a 95 legacy and the mustache bar pin bracket! Hammering out the rear hubs at PNP was not very fun, I guess I should have bought the proper tool for field stripping a hub.

Pick n pull is your friend with troubleshooting gremlins, especially expensive gremlins. You can find spares to test things and there is a 30 day warranty so you can always take something back for credit or exchange.

I had the same exact problem recently. Got it out at the junkyard by using a crescent wrench just below where the punch tapers and a BFH..