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Ibreakstuff

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Everything posted by Ibreakstuff

  1. Hrmm 1 piece would probably work great since I am not lifting it. There is a local driveshaft company that is less than a mile from my house, maybe I'll get an estimate just for ************es and giggles. BTW thanks for the EJ swap information you have out there, that will be the next project after this swap and getting my wrx out of the garage. I might hit you up for a harness merge if your still doing them. Right on, good luck with your projects. The more XT's I see in the junkyard, the more I want one lol. Subaru's really are like lays potato chips, you can't eat just one. I was considering larger brakes but it would limit the ability to use 13/14 inch steelies. If I do cage it up for stage rally in the future, it would be nice to use smaller rally tires for the extra acceleration on certain rallys with elevation changes. Probably just going with the most common 266x10mm rears since its the easiest to get spares. Update: Gutted the ride tonight, carpet/passenger/ rear seats are on the way to the landfill. I wonder if I can drive in the carpool lane now that its a 1 seater? Tomorrow I get to add another layer of sunburn while pulling more pnp parts, woohoo! zzz
  2. Damn, sounds too easy. I'll go pickup that bracket tomorrow! Extremely excited now. I'm going to try and get the rest of the brake parts as well tomorrow. Then I'll be ready to swap it all this weekend. Thanks again for the guidance.
  3. This is exactly what I needed, excellent pictures!!! Thank you Caboobaroo! I didn't even realize there was a bracket for the mustache bar pin, I assumed it was actually welded to the body. All of the pick and pull cars are pretty mucked up around here. I'm a novice at all this too, so forgive my ignorance lol. That was really the only major question I had, I'll probably have more questions later before its all said and done.
  4. Wow, impressive. Just keep it below 88 mph there doc, we don't need anyone going back to the future.
  5. Still can't find a picture of someone mounting the carrier bearing or mustache bar in a fwd chassis, all of the old links are dead. I'm going to take pictures of whatever I figure out so it can be documented for future swappers. Edit: found a picture of the carrier bearing!!!! (thanks NUMBCHUX) Not sure how that would hold up to rally abuse, but gives a mental picture to go on for sure. Looking at the mustache bar mounting location, going to probably just drill/tap with m10 and call it a day. If it strips out later then I can just drill it out and use a bolt/nut.
  6. The easiest way to search for things is go to google, prefix any search like so: site:ultimatesubaru.org forester spring on ea strut Forester struts would not fit without doing a 5 lug swap, not sure about the springs on an EA strut. Its common to lift imprezas with forester springs/struts however. Maybe you just need an SJR lift kit? Or fab up something similar.
  7. So i'm finally gearing up (pun intended) for my 5 lug swap and awd conversion. No EJ swap yet.. My FWD 90 loyale 3 door is mostly stock, fwd3at swapped to fwd5mt but otherwise unmolested. Over the last few weeks I have been collecting and buying parts like a fiend, just looking for advice to make sure my bases are covered. I've raped the search, not looking for answers to obvious questions just general advice and reassurance (lol). Most of the parts were pulled from pick and pull from various vehicles, hopefully everything in working order. Here's what I have collected so far: 4wd 5lug rear hubs + 1 spare Rear subframe (4wd) 4wd trailing arms with swaybar mounts Rear swaybar (20mm) XT6 LCA+BJ 2x (new) + driver side spare w/bj Front swaybar (19mm) XT4 Steering rack (+RallyRuss bracket/bushing) with xt rod ends 5MT Dualrange 3.7 (w/linkage&difflock) 5MT Dualrange 3.7 (spare w/blown 2nd) 3.7 LSD+full driveshaft w/carrier bearing/stock mount Mustache bar Rear KYB shocks w/196# springs (ea wagon) Front KYB struts w/196# springs (07 imp obs) Handbrake+brackets w/cables (07 imp obs) turbo crossmember +~1inch trackwidth (for ej swap later maybe) Still need: rear backing plates+ebrake and full brake assembly (ej maybe wrx) front knuckles and full brake assembly misc bearings/bushings ea81 tie rod ends?? (unless turbo crossmember is used) I have legacy front knucks also but i'm not sure if I will use them. Things to figure out: -drill/tap or bolt in carrier bearing and mustache bar -decide which brakes/wheels to use -drill/weld rear ej backing plates for ea trailing arm -brake lines? -wire brush and paint rusty parts Anything else that I am missing?????? Anyone have advice and or pictures of the fabricated mounts for the carrier bearing and/or mustache bar? rear end mock up: lookie what I found under the muck:
  8. Sounds like a dying fuel pump to me, but what do I know. You can easily read the code by looking at the ecu led and counting the short/long blinks. Pulling the code would help troubleshoot it further without just taking stabs in the dark.
  9. I repaired a worn toe on some expensive hiking boots, shoe goo is pretty damn durable. Not sure how it would hold up on a tire during a rallycross race tho.
  10. Is it possible to just drill out new holes in the backing plates from a impreza/legacy? Then just use the rotor/caliper/ebrake from said donor? Or would you have to weld a "shim" or concentric ring to make up the difference?
  11. Turbo'd 2.7 eh, that sounds like a fantastic idea. Did you rear mount the radiator? My loyale was always FWD, so I only had to mess with the front half of the car (thank goodness). FWD3AT -> FWD5MT. Im trying to pretend the rear end of the car isn't there, for now. Atleast until I figure out what is in the loyale's future... The idea was to build some sort of rally/rallycross car and run a fwd stock class, but i've enjoyed DD'n it in the city and might just keep it as the DD. I'm really wanting to EJ swap and go AWD, but I have one other project in the garage that has to get done first. Id love to be the first to massage the strut towers from a junkyard impreza into a 3door EA chassis, but not sure if I have it in me. Its too bad the FWD MT box uses the smaller front diff carrier/bearings.. Id love to plop a cheap OBX in this thing. Spinning one the one leg when its foggy out is no fun at all. I guess welding up the front diff could work too. This is a similar problem with the early FWD EJ 5MT's, no lsd for the fwd's until the second gen EJ 5MT. Incomming crappy cellphone picture, I'll try to get some better shots. She's got different rims now and sits a little bit higher now with wagon springs/struts.
  12. Hello friends, Ive lurked and searched long enough without saying hi... so well... ummm. Hi! My journey on this site (raping it with google search) began shortly before buying a fwd 1990 3door loyale with only 100k on it, about year or so ago. She was in about a million pieces when I got her and was parked for 3-4 years without running. It seemed that a few people worked on it before and gave up, never got an answer from the original owner as to what the initial problem was. The engine was taken apart down to the bare longblock and a lot of the wiring was pulled out. Anyways, daunting task but I got her back together and running after a couple months of reading, bleeding, and cussing. Found out later that the ecu was probably fried, would not give a CEL light on turn key and no codes from the led at all. It had some very strange issues at idle as well, which I suspect is what the initial problem was (not sure).... I was able to pass CA smog by flipping the circuit board for the idiot lights around... parking brake light with the CEL light.. score.. in the parking lot no less. Smog tech helped me fix about 10 vac leaks as well. +1 smog tech dude. When I got home I only had to take the dash apart about 100 times to fix the stupid heater/ac controls. Just had to mention this because I wouldn't wish this pain on my worst enemy. Leap forward about 5000 miles of boiling hate for the 3AT... I swapped in a junkyard 5MT fwd, pulled the ecu from the donor car as well (kicking myself for not getting the full harness). All has been well after about 10k miles, other than blowing both of the front axles within a week of the 5MT going in lol. The donor ecu worked too, fixed most of the issues. I now get to look at an idiot light everyday to remind me how lazy I am for not wiring up the neutral switch yet. Well that turned into a wall of text, sorry about that lol. Forgive me if I ask some stupid wiring questions in the future. Thanks for the awesome reference for rednecks trying to do the impossible.
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