Ibreakstuff

The rear gear has to match the pinion. Easier to just swap carriers.. Setting up a diff from scratch requires shims and a dial caliper on a magnetic base, not very much fun at all.

15001 200mm EA 2WD 15008 225mm EA 4WD 15009 225mm XT6 Sometimes the 200/225mm EA clutches listed by turbo/non-turbo also.

Interesting idea. The eg33 had dual throttle bodies but they are combined into 1 part/mani. Both Porsche and Ferrari had split throttle body boxers, makes more sense with 6/8/12 cylinders for sure.. But for a split dual spfi setup.. megasquirt and dual map sensors would probably be the most (cost) effective. I can't say you will see much of a performance increase but it would be a cool project. Or something ridiculously custom like this could be cool too: (bmw m60 with some superbike tb's)

I wasn't aware of moog making struts, but I have never had any problems with KYB. Edit: swootton beat me to it.. Should mention also, if I have a choice it's either oemor moog before other brands for hard parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, arms, bushings, etc).

It wasn't just "snow" it was deep melting snow and a huge ditch of water. The front half was floating lol. I wondered why they didn't use a horse to pull the old girl out.

Pallet with a wood blocks to support the engine and a couple of straps, if they require it to bear weight on top you can build a box.

Congrats! And welcome! Here's a good way to win a wife over, safety: (I use the same excuse for car parts) http://www.thecarconnection.com/news/1095487_2015-subaru-outback-and-legacy-earn-five-star-safety-ratings

Hrmm, you may want to give the DMV or AAA (does dmv services) a call and confirm before buying.. That emissions tag is hard to read at the bottom. California used to just make you pay a smog tax for 49 state cars, but someone had the bright idea to take them to court.. so now they won't allow them to be registered at all (unless with exemption). They used to have a process to retro fit 49 state cars too, using a referee inspection.. but I think this too was phased out. Hell, now they don't even require a sniffer test on ODB2 cars... Imho the only test they should be doing is a sniffer, it really is the only thing that actually matters.

The letters represent slight variations in the bore and pistons sizes (+/- .0005"), they did this to achieve the correct piston to wall clearances without custom sizing/reboring. The only 100% surefire way to confirm is with a micrometer and a bore gauge, esp if they are from a different motor.

Sounds plausible to me. I do like how the EJ sizes are clearly defined, it almost allows for drop in forged pistons without a bore gauge and mics (NOT RECOMMENDED) on brand new short blocks. Actually I think Manley sells A/B pistons now.

Check the emissions sticker under the hood, it will say if the car is California certified or not. You want to see 50 states or California listed somewhere, this is what they look at during the California inspection of out of state vehicles. This more effects the ability to register the car here, you would still have to pass the sniffer test. There are exemptions for a 49-state car too, but it could require drastic measures (like crashing a Cali registered car out of state).

Weird. All 12 pistons of the original pistons from my 3 turbo short blocks do have a "B" on the crown. And the "B" stamp on the shortblock halves isn't on the oil pan mating surface (which has numbers), its vertically on the exterior of the block directly under each cylinder. My 87, 88, and 90 FSM's don't seem to reference the A, B, C sizes. It only shows the std, +.25mm, and +.5mm sized pistons. Were the other sizes actually avail for turbo block/pistons or did they just pull BBBB blocks from the line? These are turbo pistons correct? 12006AA220 .25 mm os 12006AA230 .50 mm os And the rings? 12033AA000 (NPR SWF20057)

The ej25 HG issue is probably more directly related to the inferior first gen MLS gaskets. But obviously the surface RA, flatness, and the open deck sleeves vibrating can confound the issue. The engine peaks around 210F, maybe a little bit higher with heat soak when you turn the motor off. Ambient temps effect this but not as much as you would think.

You can make hybrids of the older RHB52 turbos. You can also make TD04 hybrids also, such as the popular 19T upgrade. VF11 and the TD04L-13T would be very similar in output and spool and I don't think it would be THAT much more laggy than a vf7. The real benefit is that the MHI (TD04) turbos are newer and much more easily rebuilt.

I agree with deglazing the cylinder walls, but be very careful with scotchbrite pads. If any of the fibers make their way into the oiling system, it will ruin your new bearings. Ball hone would be the correct DIY tool to use (Flex hone 00695767).

http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?cPath=15_19&products_id=199

You know that face a dog has when you take them to get neutered? Your car has that right now. jk. Did you actually break a piston or ring land?

Also just to add to this, the preload can be altered by changing the disc/plate number/order/thickness. [(!|!|+|!|!)] <-stock arrangement (right side= friction disc-friction plate-friction disc-friction plate-spring disc-spring plate) [(!!||+||!!)} <- half preload [([(!|+|!)])] <- double preload Using twice as many discs that are half as thick could also change the dynamics.

You can verify that the LSD is good without splitting it apart, just check the static breakaway torque (point at which the discs start slipping). The ghetto way would be to put one rear wheel (in neutral) in the air and put a torque wrench on a lug and see how much torque it takes to spin, should be around 40-45ft/lbs. Just using your arms would probably suffice, if it freely spins then a rebuild/replacement is in order. You could probably even shim the worn plates for added life as long as the dog ears on the plates are not gone. Glad I could help, tho all of the info is out there with a few targeted google searches. I have the Nissan part#'s also if anyone really wants them, but I have not confirmed that they are 100% interchangeable. Hitachi actually designed the diff so there are probably a few LSD's that use the same internal parts, R160/H165B.. I am told the early datsun LSD has the same parts (listed in 1984 nismo parts catalog), but the H165B has a different carrier and side bearings. There is a new nismo R160 front cLSD also, but I have no idea the dimensions of the internals.

I should add that it is very doubtful you can still get these parts from Subaru anymore. But if you do some homework they can probably be found via Nissan or online. They were scarce back in 2011-2012 when I last looked. With the right materials you could cut friction plates on a water jet too. Edit: Found a rebuild guide in the Dime Quarterly (Datsun 510 zine) DQ Volume 10 Issue 1 - Tech How-To: R160 Differential Rebuild, Part I -- R160 differentials dont often need service or a rebuild, but when they do, where do you go to find that information? In Part I, Derek Garnier shows how to disassemble your R160 and R160 LSD and also reviews the steps necessary to convert to 4.11 gears. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SM2Y2Nzc1MWQtMzNkMy00NTdlLTk1YWUtZGUyMjJhYTRlMTdk DQ Volume 10 Issue 3 - Tech How-To: R160 Differential Rebuild, Part II -- In Part I, we finished with a fully disassembled, cleaned, and painted differential housing along with a fully disassembled and cleaned (and possibly machined) center section. It’s now time to inspect our parts, order bearings and seals, reassemble, and adjust the differential. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SZGU2Zjk5YzgtNGMyNC00NmZiLWExMTMtYjQ1MzczZjQ5OGI3

Just from my notes... I have a full rebuild guide saved somewhere, from a datsun 510 source. I'll post it, if I can find it. Subaru part#: 485907001 Disk Friction 1.65 485907002 Disk Friction 1.90 485937001 Washer 485937002 Washer 485937003 Washer 485877000 Plate Friction 485897000 Disk Spring

Dang, schooled me again. Confirmed in my 87 xt and 88 ea fsm's, I didn't realize the 4eat was released so soon.

4EAT did not come out until 1989 afaik. You sure it wasn't a 3AT or a 89? Push button 4wd would be 3AT. You definitely have to match the final drive, check the sticker on your rear diff.. If it has an LSD, it will most likely be 3.7:1. You wouldn't do a gear change, you would replace the pumpkin itself (unless you really hate yourself). But most FT4WD boxes are 3.7:1. ECU is the same, it's the harness than defines AT vs MT (can be modified). You will likely need the speedo cable as well.

Check the tensioner and belt first. The defrost does benefit from the drying effect of the AC, it will still work just not as effective.

I've seen TD04's ran without coolant lines at all, synthetic oil mitigates the issue of oil coking. It might be feasible to isolated the turbo cooling to a small water cooler with an auxiliary water pump but you would need a gauge on it 100%. As for the deficient flow, not much we can do to change that.. I've wanted to try using evans waterless coolant. Which is zero pressure coolant that has ridiculously high boiling point. This would virtually eliminate hot spots and cavitation. But I think it would require the XT6 water pump to make up for the viscosity. Turbo timer might be the cheapest upgrade which would promote a more even cooldown. Benefiting the heads more than the turbo.