Ibreakstuff

I wasn't knocking the cheater bar process, was just commenting that they are on there way tighter than needed from the factory for some reason. The newer ones are definitely torqued tighter but I have had a few RX LSD's where I had to bolt on a mustache bar in order to break them loose (200+ ft/lbs?). The torque specs from the drain/fill plugs from my old and new manuals list only around 35-40ft/lbs iirc.

I snapped a 2 foot breaker bar on my 07 wrx's drain plug, using a cheater bar lol. Impact wouldn't even budge it. I'm not sure if its the assembly robot setting the torque on those or if its just tight from the diff being constantly heat cycled. I ended up buying a beefy 3 foot breaker bar to get r done. 75w90 works fine, open diff isn't going to be very picky about the fluid.

I used 07 Impreza OBS front springs/struts on my 90 Loyale (it was originally FWD also), they are HUGE. If I remember correctly, the places that rubbed were the bolts mounting the coolant overflow and coil on the driver strut tower. Then at the very bottom of the strut tower itself at full lock in. I was able to just cut the bolts short and BFH the lip of the sheet metal for clearance.

You sure the 2005 9-2x was canbus? The legacy/forester/outback/tribeca started canbus in 2007, the Impreza range (wrx/sti/2.5i) did not start canbus until 2008. If it was, that is news to me.

Moving the mounting hole of the cross-member out will help with this issue. You could also use camber plates or aftermarket lower camber bolts (top is already and shouldn't be replaced).

Injector eureka! Bosch 280150036 fits physically.. 485cc @ 3 bar - 2.2 ohms Edit: There are a few options @ 406 and 338 cc also, nothing bigger in top feed/barbed style tho. With a fuel log or modifications there are tons of bigger options (84-87 RX7). Edit2: There are probably tons more I have not found yet. This one is not barbed but would probably still work with the stock rail.. 0280150403 536cc 2.3 ohms

Probably one of these: Excessive blow-by Piston ring land cracked Turbo seals Valve seals

I think the biggest annoyance would be having to add 2+ cups of distilled/ro water every 1000 miles. And a lean misfire is a good way to pop a piston/ring land. Not to say the technology won't improve in the future.

Well, EA82T bits doesn't have the inner ebrake assembly. You *might* be able to get away with a early EJ backing plate/ebrake assembly and a EA hub/caliper/brake rotor but I have never attempted this before. Drill holes in the chassis, there are 2 layers of sheet metal you will have to drill through.. Stepper bit works best because they are so short. There is a flat spot on both sides right where you want it. Then run the ebrake cable above the rear sub-frame into the cabin where they would normally go in a later model car. I also filled the void between the sheet metal with foam insulation, added grommets, and painted it on both sides. This is the only picture I have, not the best.. Note the bracket holes were not drilled and bolted down yet.

The XT6 rear hubs are the missing link, you will need 2 of them no matter what parts are used for the 5 lug swap. Those hubs are compatible with any EA82 4WD trailing arm. EA82T hubs are only 4 lug. I used the entire brake assembly from an 07 OBS (GD Impreza) but any subaru rear disc bits should fit fine. To save yourself the trouble of researching brake parts, you can just use the rear backing plates/calipers/brake rotors/e-brake assemblies from the same car.

My 07 WRX is not canbus, it did not start until 08 for the Impreza. You are correct about the DBW and clutch tho.. And he would need matching immobilizer parts. The only way this swap could be feasible is if you have the entire body harness from the 04 or a complete stand alone engine management/custom harness. This swap would not be legal in most states.

Ferrari has the FF, which has a PTU at the front of the motor. It's like a secondary transmission for the front wheels. But without moving the motor location, I don't see how they could do awd.. There is no way it would be normal subaru transmission layout in that chassis. The WRC FT86 is RWD (gt86 cs-r3). Edit: BUT, do look at the drivetrain layout for the Legacy B4 GT300... It COULD happen, I just highly doubt it. Oh and it won't be cheap. http://www.subaru-msm.com/global/sgt2009/machine.html

In rally we call that a calculated ditch hook.

MilesFox's advice of 5w40 over 5w30 in a turbo motor is sound. Built or high mile motors might even prefer 15w50 racing oil with lots of zinc and phosphorus. 0W40 is actually thicker at 210F than 10w30, the first number is for winter grades.. Which is directly effect by how much pour point depressant additives are in it. Think of it like something they put in to keep the oil fluid at cold temperature, but the actual viscosity at 210F is unchanged. Consider the second number as oil film strength, what really matters when the engine is running for any period of time. Not all synthetic labeled oil is synthetic either these days, some is just the same petroleum oil with sulfur removed.

Welcome! Lots of members from NorCal. Let us know if you have any questions.

Sorry bud, some of the most valuable lessons are learned the hard way eh. ej251/ej252/ej253 are virtually the same (esp the shortblocks), earlier ones had lower CR. What matters for your purpose is that you retain your intake and it's wiring and remove it all in one piece to save yourself a headache. Your cylinder heads are probably ok too, unless your rod knock is allowing some piston to valve love making.. But should at the very least they be cleaned and inspected. This is actually a benefit vs some GM cars, as the intake, wiring, fuel rail... All the good stuff comes off together in one piece. Subaru's are really easy to work on and only require a modest metric tool set. Obviously there are exceptions but I'm sure you will find them and post back. Consider the crank and rods (at least one of them) as being junk. You will have a fair amount of bearing bits flowing around the oiling system too, so I would not re-use the oil cooler either. There are tons of places for loose bearing material to reside, get paranoid. Brand new shortblock (fully assembled from subaru) is $1700, I would buy that vs the LKQ used longblock. If you do salvage your block, new crank is like $300 and rods are $60-70 each. If you know someone at a dealership, you could likely get it even cheaper. Good luck!

No idea, but I am sure someone else will chime in. My experience is limited to tinkering with the RX DR (87-89), FWD (only) 5MT EA (87/90), and several flavors of FWD/AWD 5MT Impreza (93-95) gearboxes . The RX DR and Impreza AWD 5MT's (late94-95 FWD also but hard to find) have the same front diff (will fit the OBX LSD). And as far as I could tell the EA FWD (only) 5MT has the same front diff has the 93-early94 FWD Impreza gearbox.

The OBX diff made for 94- Imprezas will fit an RX dual range, not sure what other models. It will fit the 5MT fwd transmission with custom bearings also. Edit: Both the helical front and clutch rear would have to be setup with max preload to prevent a wheel in the air from spinning.

Looks like the short block is painted, would indicate it has been apart before. For 50$ you can't go wrong tho, its almost worth that in scrap aluminum. For unknown blocks I always check that it turns, doesn't have ridiculous crank walk, and if possible check under the pan for rod knock by rotating the crank back and forth and looking for movement.

+1 always from the top, the top mount has a better fit for a cut spring.

It was a 35 mph <> 35 mph head on crash at an angle. I was traveling downhill on a 3 lane city blvd.. On coming honda driver pulled out in front of me making a left turn, incorrectly reading a 2 way green light as a protected green arrow. There were 2 left turn lanes her direction and she never even slow down for the intersection. I'm split on the 5 point harnesses, but I do think they are safer than the stock belts. But when I see people at autox with a 5 point and helmet, but no hans... It's asking for a neck injury. Esp with the extra weight of a helmet (Dale Earnhardt). Someone should design a hans baseball cap, for rally transits and commuting to work.

Thanks! My plan is to stay as strong as I can for as long as I can, in order to delay having the L1-L3 fusion. I have a golf ball size muscle knot that is stabilizing it for now (banding). Seat belt was still intact it just didn't do much to help. And the drivers side timing belt was cut, so definitely didn't run. The A pillars didn't really deform but the body and roof had these crazy ripples in them all the way back to the back of the car. I am religious about seat belts, never once started that car without the lap belt on. This leads me to the question of racing seats and 5 point harnesses, wouldn't they just add to whiplash injuries in a street driven car? I plan to add emm to my RX, but I'll probably not daily drive with my helmet and hans.

Also, to add to this.. While Gloyale came out ok with his crash. The crash I had march 2013 was less severe and my L2 vertebrae is now shaped like a door stop. This was a 1990 Loyale and the seat belt didn't stop me much at all. I'm probably at 90% of my former self, even after a year of PT and facet joint injections. It's a matter of circumstance and unpredictable variables as to how bad you get hurt in a crash. However, this does not dissuade me from driving an RX or EA body. My ride in high school was a single cab ranger, the air bag broke my nose and broke the the rear glass with the back of my head.. In ~10-15 mph fender bender. Every car can hurt you, driving the most dangerous thing we do. Air bags or not, be safe out there..

1993 Impreza came with drivers airbag and srs passenger belt lol, that must have been a weird year for all makes.

If you lift the rear wheels and just rotate by hand, you could probably narrow down where it's coming from. I have seen a broken ABS ring and a bent sensor at a rallycross, it made some awful clunking noises even at very slow speeds.