Ibreakstuff

Oil or power steeering leak, even a small one? Blown half shaft boot (grease on exhaust)? Stick stuck in a heat shield?

NPR recommends 220-280 grit and 45 degree crosshatching, so the 240 grit should do it. You did get silicon carbide correct, GB33424?

I decided to just be patient and go for the full build. Taps, bits, hand reamers, and ball hone purchased. Enco decided to send me an extra drill press vise for free too, score!? Getting close to real build time. On my to do next list: more/endless amount of parts cleaning press in the ampco45 rod bushings and hand fit the pins drill and tap blocks for 1/2" studs some basic blueprinting of the blocks and cranks so I can order a few bearing sets (mics/bore gauge > plastigauge) Edit: Hone: GB33424 240 SC 92MM Taps: HHS H3 1/2-13 Plug and Bottom Bits: HHS 27/64 118 Jobber Bright Reamers: Adjustable Size G (To fit small end bore and bushing)

Here how I did mine, plasma cut and welded in a EA (these were XT but any work) rear backing plate inner ring and mounting holes to an EJ backing plate. If you do it this way, be careful to clock the backing plate correct so the handbrake cable doesn't hit the trailing arm. Also, make sure you weld the back side flush, the plates have slighting different thickness.. EA plate was thicker iirc. I used the handbrake and entire brake assembly from an 07 OBS. Sorry for the bad picture of handbrake mounting but you get the idea.. Didn't get a picture of it finished, the car was totaled later.. Edit: The machined ring like Nico did it would be the preferred method tho and doesn't waste a EA backing plate. The ring dimensions are shown in the post by PoorManzImpreza.

Learned my lesson with the hollow Subaru cam bolts, I just drill them now. Its cheap, quick, easy, and fool proof. I broke a 3 foot breaker bar, 2 cam sprockets, a strap wrench, and 3 hex bits... on my ej255/d25 wrx motor.

I "rang the bell" on my first ej255/d25 timing belt change, had the cam sprockets aligned then bumped one side accidentally. Not something you want to happen, but no damage. If my fingers were in there it would have been bloody.

From what I have seen (gen 2 vs gen 3), the only difference is the casting quality (probably higher pressure for gen 3?). I have read that there is more meat to the bridge area, to prevent cracks.. But I have both sitting on my bench and I can't see a measurable difference. To the OP, each head will fit into a ~12$ flat rate USPS box. But not with the cam towers or any accessories.

Those VIN's I posted were regarding FWD, just theoretical. Personally I am not sure they existed, but have read reports of them existing in the USA. RS would have came with front dam, rear spoiler, no side skirts, and the FT4WD (or 3AT/4AT 4WD). I have no doubt your car is a true RS, just not so sure about the FWD ones... Per the FSM, RS VIN should start out with one of these 3: JF2AG51BxLD JF2AG51BxLF JF2AG57BxLH When I said "RX aesthetic package" I was just referring to the fact that the body parts could be ordered from any dealership parts department back in the day, down to the the RX or RS decals. I wouldn't be surprised if the RX/RS spoiler/dam were the same exact part number. Body parts do usually = more drag for sure! But man, they sure make the car look better.

In my humble opinion back pressure is a flawed definition/idea and it more applies to NA motors. It should be called flow velocity, where a smaller exhaust can be better at moving exhaust gases depending on the motor size. I can elaborate if you want a wall of rambling. But turbo back, you want as little back pressure as possible. I think 2" from the heads (1.75" might be better for spooling) to the turbo and 3" turbo back would be about as big as you could ever want to go on an ea82t.

Personally I would put the front wheels in the air (make sure to chalk the tires, parking brake is up front), lock the steering, and move the front wheels back and forth.. Should be obvious where the slack is (outer tie-rod ends or rack bushings would be my guess).

48 hour PB Blaster soak + lots of heat to the area around the bolt + smack with a hammer + upside down canned air on the bolt itself + air ratchet or high powered rattle gun? I keep a hammer impact (the kind you smack with a hammer) around too, for stupid phillips head screws (rear rotors). It might work if you can fit the torx bit. I hate Torx bolts!!!! ej255/d25 cam bolts suck huge donkey testies too, which are hex.

The problem I've had with Fel-Pro HG's (9392PT) is that I've received inferior gaskets still labeled as perma torques. But if you get the ones with viton coating around the water jackets (similar to the OEM gaskets) it shouldn't be a problem. Slightly OT but I am very interested in trying a zero pressure waterless coolant (Evan's specifically) on one of my ea82t's. It raises the boiling point considerably. The downside is that PG/EG is less efficient than water at cooling so I wouldn't do it without upgrading the cooling system. But it should reduce hotspots in the heads and reduce detonation. It has other pros/cons that have to be considered too.

2700 @ 65mph sounds great for gas mileage. You can't expect to get all of the auto fluid out during a simple drain, the amount will vary car to car also (I have no idea why). Get the car is running/warm (20 mins) and cycle through each position and check the fluid again (neutral on flat ground). You don't want to overfill either.

I agree, running the motor is a clever idea too. Bolts and aluminum definitely expand and contract at different rates, finding the sweet spot is the hard part.. Heat guns are more predictable and heat more evenly. I've seen some old school builders use heat guns when setting head bolt/stud torque to prevent having to re-torque in the car. Makes me wonder if the EA motors could benefit. I need an oven that can fit a longblock!

+1 I keep a small butane lighter for a similar purpose, the "blue wrench". Don't blow yourself up. Turning canned air upside down to freeze the bolt prior to heating the area around can even go one step farther.

Actually looking back at my threads, I found where someone states pin 32 is the identifier. Not sure if that is correct with an '86 however. User Wayback said: "For an AT SPFI, ECU pin 32 is grounded. To make it an MT, you need to cut that wire. It's a black/red on the largest of the 3 ECU connectors, second from one end between a brown and a light green." I remember this now, but I had never confirmed it before the car was swapped to 4wd then totaled. Edit: Adding to this, my 87 FSM shows a pin 32 but it is not labeled.. My 88 FSM shows pin 32 and is labeled (AT); pins 1, 13, and 46 are also labeled (AT).

The brz rads don't just bolt up, the mounts top and bottom are wrong.. But the dimensions are close enough to modify for fitment. Advanced Auto also lists the 433698 rad, I emailed them and said it actually doesn't fit.. Just got a reply that says "This radiator is an exact fit for a 1988 Subaru RX.".. Apparently not paid enough to read.

I don't recall having to replace the radius rod plates when I did my swap from 3AT to 5MT. I do recall that I forgot to grab the trans mount bolts and I had to drive all the way to the junkyard 50 miles to pick them up off the ground. The AT bolts were too short iirc. The ECU is the same, it's the harness that tells the ECU if the car is manual or automatic. I only have 87, 88, and 90 FSM's tho, so I am not sure they would be of much help with your 86. There are many ways to sort the wiring after the swap tho, most people just twist the 2 fat wires together (neutral switch) and run the reverse wires to the transmission. When I did my swap, that easy way caused a CEL and weird idle conditions.. which failed smog (Cali sucks) a couple times. So I ended up just using a couple of switches for both neutral and the reverse lights. Flicking the switches all the time got super old. Before I figured it out, the car was totaled by an angry teenager in a honda. I have wanted to figure out what in the SPFI harness identifies it has AT or MT, but it doesn't appear to be an identifier pin like EJ ECU's. I searched and asked but never got confirmation. I'll take a look at the SPFI wiring schematics when I have time tonight. Edit: I should change my name to TypoKing Also, I should have asked before.. Your GL is non-turbo and 3AT correct? Fwd or 4wd?

Backsaver 9000, I like it. How much did that set you back? I know they are getting more affordable.

-1 ton lift is decent quality -1/2" and 3/4" black impact sockets are cheap(er) and durable -12 ton shop press works great, if bolted down (2nd most dangerous tool in my garage tho, guess who's #1)

Quickly, I doubt it. Wear over time, almost certainly. And I think the center would blow up before the front/rear open diffs with mismatch tires. But we are in agreement, you should have properly matched tires on an awd car. Why/how would a newer outback be more tolerance?

+1 That "S" isn't for synthetic, because it's not a true synthetic. I had an article saved on my old computer, but I can't find it now... It explained how a good % of Extra-S is mineral oil. I have been tempted to try more gear oils, pretty much in this order: Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 Motul Gear300 75w90 Redline 75w90ns (not a redline fan, I literally gave their swag away when I won a few cases of oil at a race) But I really have no reason to, the Extra-S works great and its cheap(er) if you buy it by the 5 gallon barrel. Like ~6-7/quart.. Edit: K0322AA093 still seems avail, with my discount it's $133 for the 20L barrel. I'm going to buy another soon, in case they are going to discontinue for the more expensive quarts.

Yea ~50 RA is what the more modern MLS gaskets require. Gaskets 2 go recommended 20 RA for these, I think because it's the older style MLS viton coating. I'll be doing similar, just block it with 220... Make sure its flat with an edge and feelers. Then finish it on a surface plate with 400 then 600 wetordry. Any tips on popping out the block dowels? I tried freezing the dowel and some blue wrench on the aluminum but they won't budge. Drill/tap/slide hammer, replace with new?

-gearbox with mounts -shifter assembly -flywheel -pedal box -speedo cable -new clutch kit That should be all that is needed. Make sure to cut the transmission(s) wiring past the harness so you have something to spice to. Physically the swap is a piece of cake. The wiring will be the hardest part (relative). And temporarily bypassed by using the AT shifter switch or even just couple of remote switches for the neutral switch and reverse lights if you don't want to wire it back into the harness..

Weird, apparently Subaru finally started packaging it for retail, labeled "Certified High Performance Gear Oil"? I'm surprised they didn't do it sooner, aftermarket companies have been re-bottling the extra-s for retail for years.