Ibreakstuff

The NA 07 ej25 has a monster intake, with an exhaust and tuning you could wake the motor up some. But it will not be as dramatic as turbo upgrades.. I think the most hp anyone has ever put down on an NA ej25 is around 300hp at the crank, but it cost $$$$$ to do (zzyzx motorsports circa 2005). It was super high compression, had a mustang throttle body, P&P everything, hot cams, and ran on race fuel. As for handling and shifting; coilovers and a subaru short throw kit work wonders for the GD chassis/5mt. I don't recommend any of the aftermarket short throw kits. If you are doing autox, your first upgrade should be tires.

That is pretty loud for ToD, sounds like a dead HLA. Personally I would grab a IR thermo, run it for a bit and pop the valve cover on that side... whatever rocker is the hottest is probably your dud HLA. Just cleaning the HLA's might fix it, its not that hard to do all of them either.

Rock between the heat/dust shield and the rotor? Or rock between spring and perch?

Those headlight lids make her look kind of evil, just a little bit. Johnny 5 style.

Seconded, it is always preferred to have the entire car for a swap. It will save you time and money, without a doubt. Plus the ej22 is more reliable, with the option of HCF with ej25 shortblock later.

I absolutely loathe stripping EA exhaust studs.... For this reason, am doing inserts and 4 studs per head with my ea82t build. Even had some 4 bolt mica gaskets made with 2" fire ring.

7/16 would work great with bolts/studs/threaded rod, but I'm very cautious to go with the ARP studs I listed before without some type of insert (timesert/full torque).. Just due to the limited 1" thread engagement and requirements for counter boring. I went with the 1/2" studs, at least for the first ea82t. It will require a very small amount of honing to the bolt holes in the heads themselves. Finally ditched my chinese drill press and picked up a used delta, I was worried about doing the block holes myself... no longer.

Well, I was making progress.. Then another honda decided to jack up another one of our cars, it will buff out right? So many spot welds to remove that quarter panel........ I might just look for a g4/g5 mirage coupe and make an evo clone with the 4g69. This is what I get for letting my girlfriend talk me into adding a mitsubishi to he herd. As a 911 procedure I swapped a 120k mile running (original hg's!) ea82t into my 88 RX (RIP 87GL parts car), just to have another driveable car. I refuse to shuttle my better half to work everyday. In my dining room I have 2 ea82t's and an ej255 shortblock just waiting for bearings/gaskets and the time to check clearances/assemble. As soon as the first built ea82t is assembled, I will likely gut the 87 RX and put it in that. It makes more sense now. Sorry i'm so slow, but such is life... I will take pictures and create an actual build journal when it gets down and dirty.

Honestly, I've never had problems reaching 100+ ft/lbs by just putting the car in 5th gear with the parking brake set firmly.. EA or EJ. I think the pulley on my wrx is close to 140ftlbs.

I assume you would use cold bearing to fit the outer bearing race into the knuckle, then heat the inner race to fit the axle? Not sure I would want to put flame to the bearing grease, but it sounds feasible. Perhaps freezing the axle, similar to rear axle stubs, would help too. Or go 5 lug and be done with the EA front knuckles for good.. and never have to struggle again. There are even bolt in bearings options for EJ front knuckles.

The 510 guys have a lot of information on rebuilding and setting/increasing preload in our lsd's. You have to dig a little bit, but its out there. I recall a few detailed articles in the dime quarterly too. Subaru R160 clutch LSD part numbers: 485907001 Disk Friction 485907002 Disk Friction 485937001 Washer 485937002 Washer 485937003 Washer 485877000 Plate Friction 485897000 Disk Spring There are nissan part numbers for each also, but who know if they are or will be available.

GEARS (20 seconds in)! Do want on ea82!

Cool car and a cool motor, let the haters hate. You can overtorque the head studs 5-10lbs to help prevent future HG blow outs. Its a good idea to check the head/block for flatness before slapping it back together too. Timing belt's are easy to replace, timing marks are on the flywheel. A factory service manual would help tremendously.

Like this? (I know rears... but again, similar in principal)

I witnessed a guy (Tom Scalzi, search his name plus corvair) replace 2 front axles, 2 front control arms, exhaust header, and removed a mangled skid plate with a cutoff wheel.. In 17 minutes SOLO at a rally service at Gorman Ridge Rally in 2009 (might have been '10). He did use air tools, but it was out in the bush with nothing but jackstands and the tools in his truck. It was a 93 impreza, but similar in principal. Made it to the next stage start with about 30 seconds before being DQ'd.

Sticky or put into the repair section! Definitely good information, glad I am not the only person that learned the hard way regarding the front bumper bolts. And WOW did autozone upgrade their repair guides, thanks for that gem as well.

Curious what the DNJ head gasket looks like, can you post a picture of one? Does it have viton sealant on it? I saw a ITM HG on ebay that looked even better than the OEM gasket, no idea as to how it performs.

Welcome! I grew up down south near Lake Charles. Subaru's were unicorns in my area growing up.

This. +1 Mr Miles Fox did a video on the front bearing/seals also. I recommend a press or the hot/cold trick, but to each his own:

You could turn the water pump by hand and milk the lower coolant hose. But my belief is that most of the air would burp out before you reach any temps that could hurt anything.

I love it when a thread full of debate ends with confirmation and resolution.

Confirm the EO number here to make sure it's legal: http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php Has to have an EO# listed in that database and CARB sticker to be legal in california.

Rally 15" rims (team dynamics or others) will clear, but other than that good luck. Edit: Fairtax4me beat me to it.

Np! Glad I could help. Yep, its the closest to the transfer ratio of 1:1, but there is still the reduction in the front and rear differentials.

Examples... First 2 are front spindles, early and late (note the ABS bung positions). The 3rd is a rear, which shows the bung on the backing plate...