old sub freak

Hey good score on the brat,well worth $200 bucks..Who knows,with tommorows technology....we can change rust into..??. I don't know..something strong though..haha And the 1980 Coupe..very nice.. Great paint job.Boy i bet it was hard keeping that green buried... You can easyly tell a duel carb set up..Only 2 wingnuts holding the air cleaner lid down..That car will go on for YEARS...and with great mpg..Have fun with it. You did a exellent job !! Happy Trails,Todd OSF

Hey I have a Subaru that needs rescueing.Its a 84 Brat called "Rusty, The Rat Brat".Guess why i call it Rusty???I hate to see it go out to pasture.i think with some agrisive fab work someone could get 5,10 years of fun out of it.146,000,T tops and a Weber..the drivetrain is tight.Just needs some some lookin after.So if your lookin for a rescue project check out Rusty" in the classifieds... Thanks,Todd Ps cool VW,someone will jump on that one.cause when there gone......

Oh YEA !!! Who'd ave thunk it.... Good for you !!!Who would have thought such a small thing could change so much.C ya Todd

Welcome aboard !!Todd,the OSF

Cool !! So how tuff are the gen 1 brats???? HUH ??? Well I was givin my 79 brat.I wasn't impressed with a "rice grinder" and was just going to take it out in the woods and kill it...HAHA I drove it for 2 weeks at Evens creek ORV park.It was either full throutle or slamin on the breaks..And it kept going,starting fine ......I drove up dry creek beds with basketball size rocks pushing up the floor boards..Wow !!! It got my respect...I thought you had to have a Dodge or International to have a good strong 4x4. Haha , . then as things did break,they were so easy to fix and with a come along you could get out of anything...Now this is my style of 4x4ing..afordable,tuff as rocks and reliable....what else can you ask for???So I gave that brat to my son,who beat the tar out of it,who sold it to One eye..who beat the tar out of it,who then gave it back to me..and it still purrs... hahaha no it is all in one piece but needs some TLC as they say..So how tuff are the gen 1 Brats ???? TUFF !!!!! Have fun with it..Now with a little comon sence and this message board and a few bucks,you got a ride for life..OSF.

Good lookin Brat.My 2nd Subaru was a 1979 Brat.Great rig to learn on.The vacuum lines can pop off from backfiring..Or like you said they could just be dryed up and fall off.I would check all your rubber tubing as they can leak vacuum and still look good.i always have a vacuum guage in my subarus Just so I can tell whats going on.You want high vac at an idle around 20.Go to Powells and get the book "How to keep your Subaru alive"..by Larry Owens.Best book about Subarus made !!I gave them to all my kids and any Newbie that comes by(if i have one around).I grab them any time I find one.I have paid up to $20 bucks for one in good shape...anyway have fun with your new toy and ride!! I got the best mpg off the 1600 than any subaru i have owened...Welcome aboard !!! C ya,Todd the OSF

I have had a couple of coolant leaks where the metal pipe fits into the water pump.It seems that they started after a new water pump.That conection can be tricky to get it sealed right after it has been distrubed with the new pump.Anyway get a small mirror and snoop around..And yes sometimes its a bugger finding leaks with that graivity thing going....Things are not always what they seem....as far as where a leak starts....Good luck. OSF

Hey I think you got a great deal on it for $1300 bucks.A weber with low miles, w/ Hi/low ,good score!! .How did you fix the power steering problem? I ran into that as well.Being I had a few power steering fluid tanks around I took a chance and hammered a big dent into the tank as to make room for the choke...Worked great.no leaks and a shot of black paint...bingo...That was years back and still no leaks...good luck and have fun with it....OSF

You can save some cash and just reseal your oil pump.The O rings get brittle and don't hold pressure...Kits are cheap and most auto parts stores have them.I have used "Pro-Long" oil treatment and it quieted down that tic,tic noise.Pricey stuff but I use it when I feel rich,haha. Hmmmm ...Well the money u save re-sealing your pump will more than pay for the Pro Long..Just a thought,C ya,Todd the OSF

So I just did the wheel bearings on my daughters 88 wagon.Now Do you need to fill the gap in between the 2 bearings with hitemp grease? right behind the tube thing,spacer that is in there.I have used a big syringe to fill up that area.A major hassel,do i even need too?? Is just packin the bearings enough??? thanks , OSF

I had the same problem a few years back..Can't think of how i fixed it. but going too tight around a corner and too much oil gets in the valve cover and then it get sucked up in the carb...poof !! Smokin !!It seems that about that same time it was mysteriously using more oil than it should.A now retired Subaru guy in Burine??SeaTac told me to get a PVC valve from the dealer.I didn't believe it and bet him $20 bucks..I lost,something about the size hole in it that the non dealer ones have..Anyway Good luck on the Hair Pin puffin...could be worse OSF

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=137808&highlight=pump+rebuild If I did this right here is a great link? about repairing your oil pump.Have fun,todd

Yes that is a common leak.The oil presure sending unit and guage are known to always be off somewhat ,one way or the other.The best way to check your oil pressure is to install a manual oil pressure guage.That involves a small tube from the oil pump to the manual oil pressure guage you install on the dash somewhere. Now to that leak. It is pretty easy and cheap to "reseal"the oil pump.You can get the kit from the dealer or mabey one of the regular auto parts store. I have found the only hard part of doing a reseal is getting the pump out of the block.There is 4or 5 -10 mm bolts that hold it in place.After you pull all of them,look close,there could be one hidden under some grease.grab the oil filter and work it up n down while gently pulling it out.Hopefully it will work itself loose and you can get it out.BUT>>> i have had them stuck so tight I had to "Worry" it out,as I call it.That involved rocking it up n down while spraying PB Blaster or whatever and gently prying the fillter away from the block,GENTLY !!..I know some will flip at using the term "prying"but thats the only way i have done it.Never pry between the pump and the block cause that is where things can get ugly !! As i remember it seems that they come out easer when the engine is still warm...Look around and I'm sure there will be some wright up's w/ pictures about this procedure..Just take your time and you can stumble through it...When you do open the pump up ,I bet the gasskets and o rings will crumble in your hand,Thus causing the leak..have fun and again take your time.C ya,Todd the OSF

Well that place i mentioned has the set up (carb and adapter)for E82's for $380 total.Now a E81 might be cheaper.And they can sure ship stuff. Or just start snooping around your neighborhood..It seems VW shops always have weber stuff..And theres always the internet Anyway good luck OSF

Why Yes,Paula is great.When I first went there 10 years ago? I thought "Great here's a chick to help me" Well my friends,eating crow has never tasted better...She knows her stuff and I felt like a fool for judgeing her...(hey i'm still learnin).Autosport Imports,Yea,right across from Angle lake on 99 ,just south of the airport...Great shop.highly recomended...Can i do that here? Thanks againTodd Oh and Ferox She just likes wagons and i like the spfi.they last FOREVER !!well as far as starting goes.i did a "Full Monty"on a 88 wagon with spfi 40,000 miles ago and it still starts everytime.But it does uses some oil and probley had a cracked head,but my daughter is good at keeping all the fluids up and it keeps going..i plan on droppin in a different engine here soon,but it starts...... always!!! I always have my eye out for subaru's(where did that term come from?) so I will look for a Legacy

OK OK !!I'm getting a weber..Its for my wifes 1887 DL wagon,the back up ride.The 1987 Gl devoloped a massive oil leak (I'm thinkin the front oil seal)and within 15 miles it now has a rod knock!! so its going up on the block..anyone want a 87 gl automatic 4x4 w/170,000 miles on it. $500 and the weber goes w/it...I don't know why I was leaning towards a hitachi.Its just when they are workin good ,there great. I always just try used ones till i get a keeper for my rides ,but being its the girls rig and there has been a rash of repairs to get the GL up and running Only to have starting problems and becoming unreliable and then start knocking !!.I just want something to stay running..so I can give my cars some "quality time" haha anyway thanks for the surport.Happy Trails,Todd the OSF ps i found a VW shop in Sea Tac that has webers w/ adapter for $380 total.I have bought 1/2 dozen of them over the years and they were always treated me right..

Hey Gang,Anyone get a hitachi from these guys? they have a rebuild one for my 87 dl wagon for $220 bucks. Any thoughts? I thought of a weber but I do like the hitachi's if there running good...i mean they do up to 200,000 before you even need to adjust them...Thats what I have seen. So whats the best way to get the wifes wagon going? Thanks Todd.OSF

Well I guess I should have watched the video before i talked..I thought we were talking about a carb set up...But what I wanted to say is you younger fellows have it made.When I was first workin on cars 45 years ago,you didn't get anywhere near plug wires or the coil wire without being KNOCKED ON YOUR DUFF !!!The newer wires don't leak any spark at all i guess.Even new ones "Bit ya" if you got close..The way we would check for "leaks"was to open the hood in the dark.You could see 'em jumpin all over the place..Anyway be careful around those wires!! and hang in there,hey at least its still runnin.OSF

Cold weather can do weird stuff to all cars...Is the 2 1/2"? tube from the exaust to the air cleaner hooked up and in good shape?I know that bringing warm/hot air to the carb helps alot in the cold...the fuel filter can have frozen water in it. You could have got some bumm gas in it and it just needs to be burned out.. Can you still drive it down the road or is it worse than that? Checking for leaks is good advice.and a safer way to do it too..I have been taught to use starting fluid or carb or break cleaner to check for leaks.Always worrying about a fire..Superpoo has a safer plan...Check the butterfly valve where it goes through the carb.I have seen them get worn out till air can get through into the carb...Grab it and juggle it up and down. any play? That is a sign the carb is worn out.. I know this is a lot of ifs but you just have to try "stuff" till you get it figured out..Hang on,You'll figure it out..Happy New Year.Todd,OSF

Hey Djell,Sorry for not gettin back sooner.its been a wild one...It was plumbed from the carb to the dist.But yesterday it started leakin oil BAD from the front seal area.!And that turned into a rod knock, so thats all she wrote.I have a 1987 DL wagon that she can drive.That also has carb issues.But all doable.Anyway thanks for the help Happy New Years. OSF

Well it sounds like I need to look into the progression circut as that is where the flat spot is...the change from idle to throttle..I set the timing and checked the vacuume advance.It holds vacuum when i suck on it and hold it with my tongue?sp. so we will get there.Hey at least it starts and runs good...One step at a time..C ya OSF:banana:

Hmmm now you got me wondering..Could be its not a 1988.But it is carberatored and it has a carb fuel pump...I will check the fuel pressure tommorow.I got the cold start system working but there is a bad "flat spot" just as you start to step into it.Being an automatic you notice it more.If you step too hard at first it will die..I can "feather it",but the wife just hasn't got that figured out yet and at times it dies..and guess who catches hell??? could the first jet be too big giving it too much fuel? there is a small amout of slack in the carb cable,I plan on taking that up tommorow and see if that helps..anyway I will get through this....Hey Good Things Take Time!!! right?? todd OSF

Well Thank you Djell, The carb has electric choke and I will check the venturis numbers. I have some paperwork that came with it and I'm hopeing that will help me "line it up" or whatever the term is...It is spossed to have low miles on it.It looks new,no stains or anything like that.So I will keep you all posted how it comes out.The girl said she took it to town and it died at a light or two...Thats nice haha....always somethin...Thanks again,Todd:banana:

Hey there, well i got a weber From Craigslist for my wifes 88 gl wagon.The guy I got it from was a VW buff and he got it with a bug he bought.So the info i found stamped on the carb is 32/36 FAV ?? then a space,then 23a 9v does this make any sence???I don't have the best sight so I could be off a letter or something.It is backwards from the other webers i have worked on.The choke and fuel mixtures are on the back of the carb,like by the spare tire and the throttle disc that the throttle cable hooks too goes clockwise,whereas the others I have seen go counter clockwise...Anyway I am trying to get the cold start cycle to work.right now you give it 2 pumps and it has a strong idle at 600 rpm's.i don't think the fast idle is even kickin in.I just got it running yesterday so i still have a way to go...Thanks for all in info and any leads or procedures that might help,all this helps so much.Have a smooth New years,Todd the OSF:banana: OH YEA !!!