topsecret

Another thing to watch for.. when i pulled my first one i found out about lifting the trans the hard way. You have to lift it so the mount studs can clear the engine support while you pull it off the dowel studs like some of the last guys mentioned. The part i messed up on: Just make sure if it's an auto to pull the harness to the side of the peak of the trans. It will get very tight in there while lifted. My harness got pinched between the top of the trans and the body/trans tunnel when i lifted it and when i re-installed the engine it wouldn't come out of limp mode. I had to patch up the harness where it had been pinched. YUCK! I'm really great at messing things up!

well my pics don't seem to be working but i got a bit further on this. I used the silicone tape on the intake and i used copper gasket maker. (i will try to get the pics back working) It's all back together and running great. Still no smoke on start up or after warm but still smoke coming from the area of the turbo (only while driving) and very soft brakes now. Got to thinking and realized the engine wasn't the source of the brake issue at least, so i switched my focus... I did all 4 brakes looking for issues, none found, so i started looking through the lines. FINALLY!!! On the passenger side strut tower there is a piece labeled dpv-108... right above the turbo and spraying brake fluid Looks like its the brake proportioning valve. I'll be honest this is my first gen1 with abs. Have any of you seen the proportioning valve blow out the top? Is this just a symptom of another issue? And lastly is there a special way to bench bleed this valve before i install it and introduce air into the abs system? Thanks for all the help guys

Thanks Wt. I'm going to try it today.

I just spoke with Subaru's customer support line and they told me that the part according to their parts team was correct and i needed to take it to a dealership to have it installed correctly?? I tried letting the guy know there isn't a possible way to install this part correctly, he insisted i must be doing it wrong. Long story short, never call subaru customer support, unless you wanna have a bad day.

Oh yeah and woodswagon and wt, thanks, you were right on. Looks like its coming from behind the power steering pump and blowing back, i can't tell at this point whether its the oil switch you're speaking of or the PS lines. I found so many broken vacuum hoses that i'm sure the pcv system wasn't properly doing its job as well. All together it made it look like a blown oil line into the turbo to a noob like me. Oh well, live and learn, i wouldn't have found many of these problems without digging anyway.

Thanks guys for all of the observation and suggestions. I no longer think the turbo is the culprit after tearing it out and familiarizing myself with the system. I had already bought a replacement... whoops. lol, anyone need an old stock turbo? an intercooler upgrade is in the plans but i want to get it up and running and solid before i go down upgrade road so i started putting it back together today with the gasket i've been waiting on and boom! first snag in the works! I can't find the correct part for the turbo inlet gasket. The subaru dealership here looked it up and ordered it specifically for me but it doesn't fit. part number 14415aa030. This part isn't specified in the parts explosions on legacy central and this is the only number that comes up for the dealership. It looks like the correct design but larger. here are some before and after shots after i had so much fun cleaning it someone please help with a part number???? the dealership is saying i may be SOOL and this gasket is made of more than paper

hasn't this car always been offered with toyota badges as a gt86 anyway?

I'm finally working on this again . Found the last of the gaskets and they're coming in tuesday. i pulled the turbo off the exhaust, pretty straight forward. But.... When i got below it i only had more questions. The oil leak looks significant and i can't really see what exactly was leaking because of the amount of oil everywhere. It looks like much too much oil to be only the blow by vapors. It thoroughly covered the turbo but also left a puddle on the top of the block. Where would the pressure points on this system be? I also found a broken piece on the hose between the turbo compressor outlet and the throttle body. On the turbo outlet connection its cracked, have any of you seen a way to repair this? the price for the part itself is pretty high. I feel like this hose could be a part of what spread the oil around for me. It must've known i love dirty oily hands Here are a few pics to show my findings Lots and Lots of oil everywhere Here's the Intake piece i'm talking about And here is the damage to it Pretty cool stuff though. This car will be fun when i get all of this worked out.

I've just bought a 93 legacy touring wagon. It seems to be leaking oil around the turbo. The car doesn't smoke on start up but there is oil around all of the intake tubing into the intake manifold. On the turbo I've looked at both of the oil send and return lines from the head and they look intact. Is this common for the oil to leak into the intake instead of blowing into the exhaust? I see some oil around the lines going to the pcv valve as well. Could be from the rest of the intake tubing... I guess my question is: with this kind of leak what else should i be looking for? So far i'm just planning on removing the turbo, hopefully it will be able to be rebuilt, and reinstalling. Any suggestions would help tremendously... i'm not new to ej22's but this is my first ej22t thanks in advance sorry for the photo quality i only had my phone handy

Well you guys were all right in the end. It was a security issue, just not a subaru one. It looks like an after market alarm was installed and then poorly uninstalled from this car. There was an entire mini harness tucked underneath the steering column and when i pulled it out i could see that it was all spliced into a little 4 wire blue connector directly below the ignition. The white wire with a black trace coming from the blue connector had been cut for the splice and then never reconnected. I pulled the entire added harness out and put everything back to factory. A little bit of solder, some electrical tape, and five minutes and i was up and running. Thanks for all the help and suggestions i was truly stumped on this one. THE END!

Thanks for all of the awesome input guys. I'll be trying all of these out today and i'll let you all know what i find.

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I had thought the the starter solenoid was part of the starter on something this new, thanks for confirming that. I just changed out the starter just for good measure; seems stupid now because it still doesn't work lol. I have checked the fusible links and fuses, not just visually but with my dmm also. I have tested the battery and tried a different one with higher cold cranking amps. I have checked all of the battery connections. How would i find whether or not this car has a security system? I bought it at an abandoned confiscated auction and it didn't come with keys or fobs. I had a key made but it is just a standard metal key that they gave me. Do the subaru's this late have a magnetic coded key? Only wiring diagram i've come across so far for this gen is for an h6 and i have a 2.5. Do you guys think the starter circuit would be the same in both? Does this starter circuit even pass through the ecu? I was just assuming it did because of the code it threw. Also; is there a cutoff switch of some sort. This car was hit on one of the rear wheels. Sorry for so many questions at once. I'm fresh out of ideas for the easy stuff. It's looking more and more like it's gonna be something hard.

Thanks for the quick reply. I forgot to mention that part too. I did try starting it in both park and neutral to see whether it was the neutral safety switch. It doesn't start in any range and the inhibitor seems to be working just fine. I hear a click when the power is on and i go to take it out of park and i hear another click when i step on the brake. I tried starting it while wiggling the shifter in all ranges to see if i could catch a sweet spot. No luck yet. I have now taken the bottom of the dash off so i could get to all of the harness pieces. There seems to be wires spliced into the green connector. Not sure if it was for a stereo or alarm system. Also when i try to engage the starter from the key a little gold cylinder clicks (there are 2 of them right above/below one another beneath the steering wheel) I would be more specific but i'm not really sure exactly what they are. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the starting circuit? Right now i'm leaning towards a harness problem / ecu problem but my fingers are crossed that it's something much more simple.

I have a subaru that i just bought that is having some sort of electrical issue and i'm a bit stumped on it right now. It won't crank so i checked the starter. I have 12.6 at the battery connection to the starter when i turn the key i have 12.6 at the starter fuse under the dash the problem is the little slide on connection at the starter. When i turn the key there is no voltage present. If i take a jumper wire and go directly from positive on the battery to that little ignition terminal it will start just fine so i know the starter and ground are good. My question is what is between the ignition fuse beneath the dash and the ignition terminal on the starter itself? Is there a starter solenoid on this model and if so where is it located? I did get a p1518 code saying that the starter solenoid had low voltage but when i researched this code most of the information given was that this code was just a biproduct of the no start situation. Any help would be great. thankyou

Awesome. Just what I wanted to know. thankyou

*this is a sedan by the way

I have a 91 legacy L and I damaged the trunk hitting it with my truck. I have found a suitable trunk lid but it is from a 92. The body looks exactly the same to me, there is just a difference in the reflector (between the two tail lights) The yard I found the lid at tells me it will not work for a 91. Anyone have any experience with this? The body type's look identical to me but was there a change in 92?

this is wayyyyy off topic but I had to replace a starter on a Cadillac northstar engine. The damn thing is underneath the entire intake manifold. I had to remove a whole bunch of junk just to get to it. YIKES! *Also, a serpentine belt on a ford has a little tensioner and takes 5 minutes to change if you know what you are doing. Let's not exaggerate the differences that much. I love my ford focus as much as I love my legacy.

Oh yeah and one more thing. I used the same method as you, jacking up the trans to remove and replace the engine. I damaged the wiring harness to the trans because mine sat right on top of the bell housing and was crushed between the trans and car. Just something else to look out for when your putting that engine back in. (which in my opinion is much harder than taking it out)

Even though I had removed all of the flywheel bolts and completely undone every connection between the motor and trans my torque converter still popped out with the engine when I removed it. I struggled with it not dropping all of the way in just like you are talking about. Took me over an hour with 2 buddies and then all of a sudden like magic it just seated correctly. They are tricky tricky but I think that this is just normal. keep your head up and cram it in

I'm looking for shift solenoid 1 shift solenoid 3 and the vehicle speed sensor that is on the trans case for a 1991 legacy with a 4eat. will you message me with availability and price?

another update: after driving it for a while 32 came back. I'm assuming that's the speed sensor that has something to do with the speedometer because I did notice that the needle is wagging a bit but it is still accurate? I really think I'm looking for a bad ground. 2 solenoids and something in the dash?? this just isn't adding up with me. can anyone tell me where the ground for these is located?

I was ordering a new filter for it right now. now I don't know. is it pretty common to delete that part of the system? also update- I read the tcm the first time I read it there was a 15 amp fuse in the fwd slot. and it came up with the codes 13 - (shift solenoid 3), 15 - (shift solenoid 1), 32 - (vehicle speed sensor 1), and 33 - (vehicle speed sensor 2). I realized the fuse was in and took it out and tested it again, I got all 4 codes again at first but then 2 of the codes disappeared while I was reading it. Now the only two codes that are on are 13 and 15. where do I go from here? is it for sure the solenoids or could a bad connection cause this? Is there a way to test these solenoids individually like I did the duty c? thanks again for any help.

update: After more research I found out that the fwd fuse powers the duty c solenoid and defeats 4 wheel drive. I put the fuse in and the "torque bind" went away. So I now know that the transfer clutch is the point of my trouble. I think. lol I still don't see any clutch material in my fluid and have done another flush. I just noticed that there is some sort of canister along the frame rail between the transmission and the cooler. Is this a filter? Should I be replacing it with my flushes?

my pics wont work I guess.