ejlain

Check the recent messages here. Someone else just had the exact same problem with oil in the spark plug chambers. IIRC, it had to do with bad seals on the plugs. Someone here will be able to help you more. As far as getting the boots off..they can be difficult sometimes..it's a “twist while you pull” motion that's needed. You can also buy an inexpensive special spark plug wire remover tool at Pep Boys or NAPA. Your gap is correct. Hope this helps. Ed

Did they say if that's front and rear? Brake pads themselves come in a variety of brands and materials and grades. Do a search on this board and you can read about the experiences/recommendations of the forum members. You don't give a lot of info about the quote you were given but it sounds to me like that would be a standard brake pad on front and back and maybe some machining of the rotors. $250 doesn't sound incredibly high, but call around and get some more quotes if you feel you're not getting your money's worth. Places like Pep Boys have brake specials all the time. If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, brake pad replacement is fairly easy.Personally, when it comes to safety-related things like brakes, i just feel more comfortable having a professional do it. Hope this helps. Ed

Hi. I think the timing belt is inspect at 60k miles and replace at 105k miles. As far as the waterpump goes, most people on here will tell you to do it at the same time as timing belt since it's pretty labor intensive. For tensioners, same thing. Check their condition when you do the timing belt. I'm sure others will chime in but hope this helps. - Ed

Just curious, where'd you get your new temp. sensor and was it hard to install?

*bump* any ideas?

Oops, sorry...yeah, forget the k.

Hi, kind of a basic question here about my 98 Legacy L (automatic) sedan with 104k miles. I noticed that it used to idle with the A/C off and e-brake released at 7k RPMS. Recently, it seems to be down to 6k RPM. I know they are both within the manual's specs (6-8) but was wondering if someone could tell me how to bump it up. I just had the oil changed last week. New PCV valve? Fuel filter? Injector cleaner? Thanks for any help. It runs great besides that. - Ed

Hi. Did you get a chance to do anything with your cat yet? Did you find the problem? Was this related to the RedLine you used? Just curious. - Ed

I can't remember who posted it but do a search for "water" or "water in doors." Someone gave step by step instructions for blasting water out of the the lower door area. You might want to try what others have suggested and do a thorough cleaning and then use a mold/mildew cleaner from an autoparts store. Sorry I couldn't help more.

The local Pep Boys in this area carries it...$5.99 for a 15 oz. bottle i think. Ed

http://logos.subaru.com/

Hmmm, sounds like it could be differential or torque binding. How many miles? $5k seems a little high. I got a 1998 Legacy L sedan (auto trans.) this winter with 99k miles for $5k, so you were probably right to pass on this one.

Do you have a spare key you can try? Or, is the key you are using worn? I had a key/ignition issue on a Dodge Intrepid years ago and IIRC, taking apart the ignition/re-building the tumblers is a MAJOR job. Take a good look at the key or try a spare key if you have one. Sorry I couldn't help you more.

Hi Kathy. Congrats and welcome to the board. Sounds like you got a good deal. You should get many years/miles of enjoyment out of your Subaru. Just keep on top of your oil changes and you should be fine. Let us know if you have any questions/problems. You'll be surprised at all the expert advice you have on tap here. - Ed

Sorry to hear about your accident. I totalled a 95 Legacy when a young girl made a left hand turn in front of me. Not a good feeling. I would definitely stay on top of YOUR insurance company. Make sure they are proceeding with everything in a timely manner. If it's a case of her insurance company accepting 100% liability you may be entitled to a rental car on HER company's dime. I agree with the person who said you should look into buying your car back from the insurance company and parting it out - here or someplace else. Also, when the ins. co. goes to total up your settlement, make sure you provide them with receipts from any major repairs/replacements you had done to the car...They may not consider ALL of them, but my insurance company at least considered some of mine. They usually take the BlueBook value, less a certain amount for mileage PLUS your deductible (if it wasn't your fault) plus tax and tag fees.

I respect your right to your opinion, but you really don't have a good argument there. Wearing your seatbelt isn't a privacy issue. It's a safety (and common sense issue). The seatbelt laws were passed in many states as a way of decreasing the number of injuries and deaths on the highways. There have been a lot of studies done on the issue..some say that the seatbelt laws are effective and some say they may promote hazardous driving. The bottom line, I think, is that it really only takes a second to click the seatbelt on. If, by chance, it saves you from being ejected from the windshield or ramming your face into the hard plastic of a steering wheel, it was well worth the investment of clicking. I'm in PA and, like a lot of other states, the police will issue a ticket for not wearing a seatbelt only if you're stopped for another infraction. If you're worried about a ticket for not wearing a seatbelt, maybe you should slow down or obey the traffic signs. If you're injured in a car accident because you didn't wear a seatbelt, should the paramedics come and help you or do you want your privacy? Should the insurance company resepct your privacy and not bother to re-imburse you? Sorry, don't mean to flame...but buckling up really isn't that big a deal.

I agree with Bill90. Check and doublecheck the hoses on the air filter housing. Make sure everything is seated properly and connected. Even if you have to take the whole thing apart and put it back together. I really think you'll find that's the problem. - Ed

Chris, if you have one in your area, take it to an Autozone. They'll read the codes for free. If not, call around and see if you can find a dealer or shop that has a diagnostic code reader. If you have AAA, they have centers in most states that have the equipment and offer discounts to AAA members. Knowing what code the engine is throwing would be a help in narrowing down the problem. From your description, my guess would be maybe a loose timing belt or maybe a bad or missing timing belt tensioner. If it is timing belt related, that would explain noise around the water pump and the idling troubles too. I'm sure someone on here can give you more ideas, but that would be my initial advice. - Ed

It's just on the one side? Wheel bearing? CV boot possibly? I would pull the wheel and have a good look around. Sorry I couldn't be more help but you've definitely come to the right place. I'm sure you'll get some expert help soon. Ed

Hi. I have a 98 Legacy L (automatic) with 101k miles on it. As Emily said, they might need an adjustment. Are you due for an oil change? I've found that the sound is not as bad after a good oil change. I've also had some success with pouring some Marvel Mystery Oil into the crankcase. If you look on the shelves at your local auto parts store, there is something called ValveMedic by Gumout I think. It's another engine additive you might try. I've kinda grown accustomed to the lifter noise in the morning because, in my case, it always disappears once the engine has warmed up enough. Hope this helps. Ed

Pretty easy to get the panel off actually. There is ONE screw right where the door handle is and ANOTHER screw in the center of the arm rest. This one requires that you pry out the little plastic cover hiding it. One you remove those screws use a wide screwdriver or putty knife to pop the plastic fasteners around the perimiter. There are about 8 of them I think, 3 on each side and 2 on the bottom IIRC. Once it's free, carefully lift UP and OUT. If you have electric windows, there will be a connection you'll have to undo if you want to remove the panel completely. You'll probably have enough room to work, though, if you just swing it out of the way. NOTE!!!: Make sure the window is UP if you need to get into the door to install your wires. Also, be CAREFUL when you stick your hands in and out of the metal openings..the edges can be EXTREMELY SHARP and DANGEROUS!! Hope this helps. Ed

Yeah, i think someone else on the board had the same problem and it was fixed with a new radiator cap. Let the car cool down for a few hours, then remove the radiator cap and have a look. They're pretty inexpensive, so you might want to try replacing the cap first and see if that solves the prob. Let us know. - Ed

Check out http://www.1stsubaruparts.com. Last time I checked, they had them for something like $65. - Ed

Seems to coming from steering wheel inside the car. Could that still be P/S related?

P/S fluid is topped off. This one's got me stumped. I'm gonna have to get have to get down on the ground and see if I can figure out what it is this weekend. Thanks for all the help so far. I'll keep you posted. - Ed