pasco

Hi Ron Your right there are three hidden screws that had me stumped for a while and as always and its easy to remove twice the amount of screws required. Its a quick process now but I hope I wont need to get back in for a while. Its difficult to fault find at the best of times but when you don't have a circuit it's tough. I never got the request for a circuit diagram from Subaru and most auto electricians just told me to scrap it. Anyway I'm new to forums and have not been able to work out how to upload an image so I will try and explain the process. First of all disconnect the battery Hidden Screws!! There are two plastic covers to remove. The first sits to the left of the forward facing vent grill just below and to the left of the vent on/off lever. Pull the vent knob off while your at it. The other triangular cover to remove is on the drivers side right hand side vent, directly above the coin compartment. The next few screws to remove are on the underside of the dash, four in total. There is one screw next to the light switch and the other near the wiper control to remove and I found it easier to pull of these switched and unscrew them and leave them connected rather than unplugging them. I also removed the cover around the steering wheal but make sure you wrap some bubble wrap as it too easy to scratch the dash. You will also have to remove the choke by simply unscrewing the knob screw and releasing the plastic lock nut. Once the front compartment has been removed the dash is held in by 4 screws. Its a bit of effort to remove the module but you need to slide it out enough to get your hand behind to remove the speedo cable as it's not very long. Once removed there are four plugs to remove all of which are keyed so they will only go in the right way. The actual main board is easily removed firsly by unscrewing the face plate that the driver sees then unscrewing the clear perspex cover and underlying dark plastic cover. The main board is held in with half a dozen screws but you will need to unplug the two cables from the other side. Cheers Pasco

Hi I had ongoing issues with my dash with every possible fault you could come up with happening right down to no dash and a constant piezo alarm sounding. It wasn't much fun. Anyway after finally working out how to remove the dash and working out where to connect the 12v supply I noticed that the 5V regulator voltage was 4.8v. When you remove the main card from its housing the regulator "17805P" sits at the top left. I regulator only cost $1:50 from Jaycar. I also found a dry joint around the tacho display which I may have been caused while trying to re solder some of the soldered joints. While I had the dash out I also replaced the dash globes. These globes are 1.7 to 2W and I purchased them from a local auto electrician. Don't try and replace them with the LED type or 5W lamps as the LED colour is all wrong and the 5W is way too bright and could overload the circuit. The only lamps I couldn't quickly find were those in the trip computer. Anyway I'm just happy the dash is back. Now all I have to do is repair the heater and radiator leak. I've taken pictures of where to connect a 12v supply on the bench so please let me know if you would like me to send them in. Also when you connect the main board on the bench the only lights that will come on is the fuel low light and the KPH/mls. Faults:"these are some of the effects of an incorrect rail voltage" Segments latched on or flickering. "especially the fuel display" Dash auto switching from KPH to Miles No dash and alarm sounding All segments on. Cheers. Pasco