808Legacy

I'll do that soon, just need to get the car away from my kid's mom for a spell. (Gotta Bondo the holes above the windshield too!)

Excellent, I'll check that tomorrow. See if it kapakahi. Mahalo from Maui!

thanks John, I tried unplugging the box and it won't start, unless I'm missing something? really would rather just disable the thing. we really don't need it here on Maui and I don't want to spend $30 for a remote my kid will probably lose. that link you sent says this: "Programming or Overriding the Alarm when you have lost the remote Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (see diagram, button under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off. " what I'm not understanding is that second to last line where it says: "Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed." This reads like a misprint or bad English translation. I thought this was for if the remotes were lost. In any case, do you think they mean to have me press the lock button on the door?

Squeals loud on "cold" starts not after. "Cold" is not really cold here in Hawaii, just first thing in am (never below 70deg.) Belts seem good and tight (and in good condition); tried the soap trick. Maybe it's a pulley tensioner? Doesn't squeal after warmed up. Any ideas? Mahalo in advance!

Got a 98 Outback that didn't have remote keys from previous owner. Every once in a while, the alarm system (it's original Subaru, not aftermarket) seems to take on a life of its own and you have to use the bypass button underneath while turning key with clutch in. Then, it seems to kill battery once in a blue moon on top of that, which is a bigger nuisance. We don't need this stupid alarm system at all! From reading other posts, it might be a trip to dealer to disconnect it properly, or, if I'm reading one post correctly, a matter of separating and re-soldering the ignition feed wire which is wired to the little black box up above the clutch. The alarm horn, btw, had a cut black wire, so I just cut the red wire as well and taped both up. Maybe that was causing a periodic short that was setting it off and killing the battery?

http://youtu.be/EC-mTfcxdSg

So, I am in Hawaii, temp. never gets lower than 70-75 deg., so there is no "cold" cold start (unless I spent the night on Haleakala (10,000ft) or lived way upcountry above 5000ft. Thick oil turns lighter fast out here. I am very apprecitative of everyone's input here; I am going to try the cylinder experiment in the morning. Seems like the knock is now much lower in volume and very intermittent, btw. I'll post another video soon.

Ok, went with my savant mechanic friend's suggestion and added the Lucas oil stabilizer (about 2 qts), 2 qts Lucas 70 wt racing oil, and topped it off with 15w40. No more knock!

Because that's what I had on hand. Same weight. Mixing reg. & synthetic is fine.

This doesn't get worse or louder under load. I'll listen closely when I drive it up hill next, but pretty sure it doesn't. It doesn't seem to diminish as it warms up, does seem to be intermittent, or at least I didn't hear it much when my friend pulled it in just a minute ago. Restarted and it's there. But subtle. I just listened with a piece of garden hose as a makeshift stethoscope. Def. seems to be coming from medial (to borrow another medical term) engine block, able to hear more from driver's side (but more obstructions on pass. side).

This was an accidental repost of the video because it didn't appear on my iPhone.

http://youtu.be/Ah1GwaPY_Ds

Hope my video link shows up, I can't see it on my iPhone, but might just be my connection.

First, let me cut to the chase: http://youtu.be/Ah1GwaPY_Ds Recently got a great deal on a 98 Outback. Manual, 172k, yeah, yet seems solid to me, good power up hills, shifts fluidly. yet... it was rather low on oil when I got it last week, so I added 2 quarts 10w-30 (1reg, 1 blend), and then today, 1 synth. It's not leaking anywhere, btw. I've read other threads about similar clicks and knocks. This one isn't very loud, but my more knowledgable friend insists that it could be an issue and that I ought to change oil with Lucas and some 60 weight racing oil. I realize this could be a variety of issues and even a video isn't the same as seeing it in person. Seems to be coming from drivers side middle area. He thought previous lack of oil might have done some metal damage, like in piston or valve(s). Beyond my expertise, for sure. The knock is so subtle, I wasn't super worried about it (the way Subarus sound), yet my friend says I need to deal with it ASAP. Any takers?

Ok, so we have conflicting advice over pure 80-90 gear oil vs that mixed with ATF and Lucas Transfix. I guess I'll drain it just to be sure. But I'll wait to see if anyone else chimes in.

Thanks for that. I was able to suck out just enough to get the differential back to full with a tube and syringe. Really didn't want to drain 350 degree oil.

Good to know, thanks. Yep, I put ATF + Lucas in the differential, thinking that was the transmission. How many quarts 80 90 gear oil?

I think I overfilled the differential case, just slightly. It was at halfway, now bleeding over full after I shot less than half a quart of fluid today, obviously before I had the tyranny dipstick epiphany (sounds like a Zappa song, eh?). Is this going to mess me up? Should I drain a half a quart out? I'm hesitant to crack any bolts underneath there, but I'll certainly do so if it is warranted.

Ah yes, that is the question. Well, thank the stars that mercury is not that far in retrograde and today I discovered that I was only checking and adding to the 8" yellow handled DIFFERENTIAL dipstick until I recalled late last night when my friend, an actual mechanic who loves to sleuth out problems, mentioned that there were probably two dipsticks. I assured him that I had not seen this second dipstick, that it did not exist...and today, after remaining in my state of willful ignorance while shifting drive-reverse, drive-reverse forty times... I decided to reverify my contention about this myth of a second dipstick... and lo ad behold! A TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK! On the drivers side, ensconced below some tubes and wires. It is yellow too, at least in my Legacy, and yes, about 2' long and flat (as opposed to the cylindrical differential dipstick). The darn Haynes manual is really rather vague about this, as it is about most of the transaxle. And it was very low, only about an eighth of an inch of yellowish fluid. I added about half a quart of Lucas and a quart of dex3, shifted a bunch, then drove it. Marked improvement, yet still was hesitating going uphill (not being able to go uphill is pointless on Maui's north shore) and at higher RPM. So, I brought it home, checked it again. Still way low, so I added another quart of Dex 3. This time it drove close to perfect. I checked it once more and it is still reading very low, so tomorrow I will go over to Pukalani Napa and get a few more quarts. Can you say "whew" ?

Do you mean as close to full as possible? I am really hesitant to overfill.

Thanks everyone. I love this site. I will also shift b/w drive and reverse while idling a bunch (40 times at least) per my mechanic friend (who got that from a transmission specialist). I did shift it some last night, but not that much. Kept looking at dipstick level and it seemed to stay in the middle. Should I stay with adding Lucas or mix with regular Dexron 3?

*need help ! I just replaced transmission fluid hoses coming out of radiator, the lower one was badly cracked where tiny plastic one way valve sits. Forward not working right: it's not engaging fully. Reverse works. Background: While I was away, my wife was driving my 94 AT FWD Legacy and it was losing power, the gears weren't engaging fully, it could go in reverse, but would only go forward slowly (or slipped?). So, I told her to check oil and trans fluid. She added a quart of trans fluid (it was near the bottom of dip stick) and it seemed to help for that day, but then the next day it was having the same problem, and leaked a bunch When I returned, I checked the trans fluid, and it wasn't too low, it was in the middle. It was toward the tan/brown end rather than red color when she checked. It did not smell burnt or unusual. I looked underneath for a leak, only found a tiny amount on what I think is the differential pan & bolt (the smaller one with fins between engine oil pan and tranny oil pan). Nothing else seemed to show any I added some Lucas transfix stuff (several people recommended). That's when i discovered the leaking hose, so i replaced it after re-inserting the one way valve. Doesn't yet seem to be the cure. I drove it around block and it seemed like it would only go in first or not at all on slight incline. Going to high rpm doesn't help. Is there anything I might be missing or am I about to jump down the transmission rabbit hole? I was so hopeful that replacing the leaking hose would be the charm, but maybe I'm out of luck. Definitely can't afford a new or even rebuild. I've read a couple threads where the manual button sometimes helped (I thought that button was just a pretend button, it didn't seem to actually do anything but turn on a yellow light to tell you it was "in manual"). Thanks in advance for any help!

mmm...no, thanks for reminding me.

By solenoid contacts do you mean the smaller wire coming from the firewall to the solenoid or replacing the solenoid? It seems like it's hard to find the solenoid without the starter motor, and the reman looks like around $200 + core, unless I can find a junk yard one.

ah, you're in CS, where I grew up. I'm not sure about shipping it out here, as everything costs way more to ship to Hawaii. From another thread, it sounds like I might need to replace the starter/solenoid (which that site lists for $17.99, plus $5.25 core, not bad). Maybe you could send it to me in CA and I will fly over with it (that's where I am until mid June). Gladly get you a Kimo's T!