suprunner
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Everything posted by suprunner
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Hi all, sorry for just letting this topic drift into nothing. I tracked down some bad light harnesses in the rear hatch and tail lights. I will be cleaning/replacing a bunch back there, and probably moving to LEDs to reduce global load as well. Thanks for all of your help! Greg -
To complete this topic here is what I did: I grabbed a piece of High temp/Pressure Fuel line with an ID that matched the 2003 EJ253 PCV that threaded directly to the block. I put a hose clamp on it even though it was snug. I then Jammed that hose into the large J-bend hose that goes to the PCV in the DOHC Intake Manifold. I have over 3000 miles on this, and no change in hose integrity. We'll see what happens when North America thaws, and I'm back down in the desert. Thanks for all the help! Greg
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SOLVED Body: '98 OBW Current motor: EJ251 block, EJ25D heads (rings are letting oil be consumed, and there are sounds of the beginnings of rod-knock) Newer motor: Reman EJ253/251 block, EJ25D heads. Hey folks. I bought a reman block form subaru. EJ253/251 block for a 2003 forester. Mating it with EJ25D heads to replace my current hybrid (EJ251 and EJ25D heads). Everything is just about ready to go except the PCV system. The newer block has what appears to be a threaded-in bung to accepted a threaded PCV. Being that the intake I'm using is for the heads, it already has a PCV. Has anyone put a newer block into an older system and routed the PCV system successfully? The old-style is just a pipe that comes out of the block, with the vinyl tubes coming off of it. They don't fit over the new interface. I'll try and get photos soon. Looking at pictures for the newer PCV, it doesn't look as if its outer diameter is the same inner diameter of the older crankcase hose that would be going up to the PCV on the intake. a Thoughts and advice much appreciated. Greg
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Hey thanks for getting back! The JDM headlights have separate bulbs for Daytime/parking lights, Headlights, and Brights. So, when I pulled the two relays, that only shut off the main headlights and kept the daytime/running lights up front and all the tail lights illuminated (I also had the rear defrost, radio, and heater on) and the voltage at the battery maintained 14v. Once I put the relays back in the main headlights came back on, and the voltage at the battery began dropping below 14v. Greg
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Are the wheel-wells even wide enough for 33's? I may not be an expert, but I think you might need a sub-frame with solid-axle conversion for that... https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/las-vegas-2004-subaru-outback-35th/7408458430.html I don't think those are 33's... Good luck, Greg
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@lmdew @idosubaru @1 Lucky Texan @nvu @ronemus I replaced the battery terminal clamps with marine-clamps. The copper of the battery cables were no longer shiny and had some oxidation, so I made brand new positive cable from battery to starter, and freshened up the cable/terminal connector from the positive coming out of the fuse box. Brand new ground cable from battery to starter/bell-housing, battery to front body, and battery to intake manifold. Volt meter now reads a stable 14.1 with everything on (fog lamps, rear defroster, heater, radio), except the headlights or hazards.I pulled the headlight relays and the volt meter went from 13.8 (and looked as if it were dropping) back to 14.1. I have the JDM projectors installed. I assume that I need to chase the grounds to the headlights? Or convert the H1 bulbs to LEDs? Both? Thanks for all of your help, Greg
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dang. I have work to do then. Thank you.
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Is that voltage at idle no matter what the load? Like if I have the headlights, fog lamps, and rear defroster running, it should still be at about 14 volts? Greg
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Found two bulbs on the passenger side that had corroding sockets. Unplugged them. While running, and lights off, voltage just continues to drop. Over a 10 minute period of idling, the voltage at the battery dropped from 14.6 to 14.0, even when I had the lights off, and any other accessory power-draw deleted. Safe to say my alternator is dying?
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Subarupartsdeal states that the original part # and replacement part # have been discontinued. They purchase/supply from Subaru warehouses.
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I'll triple check again. Will running the car off of just the alternator for-sure fry it if it is under-charging? Or will that not have any detrimental effect? So, just the general harness for the rear lights/hatch? The symptoms show up with the lights-off AND with the hazards going. Also, Bosch or Denso Reman? Thanks! Greg
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Thanks! I'll start looking. I have put "upgraded" grounding wires in and filed-off paint from the usual body-mounts (e.g. small ground off of battery, transmission-to-body-ground). The alternator is old, and has lived in the Las Vegas heat without a garage for the past two years. I'll check around. Thank you! Greg
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So, I've recently come into a problem. I've noticed an intermittent whirring/whistling noise coming from the center/center-bottom of the dash. Almost sounds as if there's a cd in a disc-player rotating at a high speed. I don't have a cd-player, and I've also removed the fuse from the radio, and the noise still comes. Anyway, when the noise comes on, it follows the RPMs of the motor. If I depress the accelerator, the noise gets louder. While idling (and noise present), if I press on the brake pedal the lights pretty much completely cut out, and the motor almost dies. In the videos you can hear the noise, and see the idle responses. It frequency of brake-taps is consistent with the motor behavior. ALSO, if I turn on the hazard lights, the idling bobbing/cutting with the lights cutting follows the frequency of the hazards and/or turn signals. When the whirring goes away, the symptoms are gone. Do I all of a sudden have a really bad ground? All lights are functional; nothing out. '98 OBW with 251/25D hybrid Recent work (past 6 months): New OEM MAF New OEM TPS New OEM ignition coil New OEM plugs New OEM wires New OEM 5mt neutral switch New OEM 5mt reverse light switch New Fuel pump relay (symptoms were present before I went playing under the dash) Done in the past two years: fuel pump fuel filter Timing belt New OEM Cam Gears I'm pretty bad at electrical diagnostics, any suggestions/advice would help. Battery has 12.5v just sitting. 12.8v while idling. Thanks for your time folks, Greg
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Thank you! I'll start assembly then.
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Sorry, did I miss that?
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I recommend looking at doing the calculations: https://www.engineersedge.com/mechanics_machines/transmission-gear-ratio-calculator.htm Also, your final drive gear (5th or 6th) will determine the RPMs that you might be traveling at, and consequently how much fuel you'll be consuming... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html?s=27d9dbc6d83925f40022ef69a180bc77& http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart I bought a 5mt from a JDM '05 LGT wagon, and swapped in the stub shafts and speedo gear for my '98 Outback. Splitting the case and removing/reinstalling everything isn't that bad, honestly. I've got 10 thumbs and I didn't think it was too bad. There are a bunch of write-ups on splitting the case... https://www.voisin.ch/subaru/docs_techniques/2008_impreza_wrx_&_sti_manuel_atelier/wrx/wrx_transmission/5mt_manual_trans_&_diff.pdf Once it's open, the ring/pinion gear are easily accessed, and removable... hope any of this helps! Greg
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I finally pulled the short block (SOA478H600R1) that I purchased a couple months ago out of the box and put onto a stand. Changed out the 7mm oil pump for a 9mm that I had (I don't think I'll need a 10mm as I'm a conservative driver, and this is just for a DD project). Looking at the pistons, they're labeled as 255 SH. Is this going to be a problem mounting with DOHC heads? When I was talking with a subaru parts tech over the phone I had specified that I wanted an EJ251 or EJ253 short block for '03-'05, and they had given me the part number. I had then talked with a different Parts Tech, and they confirmed that that part number was for what I had specified. Are the pistons the same? I thought the 255s were used with the AVL systems, and can't work with pre-AVLS. . Should I be looking for new pistons now? The current motor in my car is an EJ from a 2001 Impreza, with DOHC heads. I wanted to recreate the build as it is generally a nice and powerful (enough) motor. Also, I bought a brand new subaru water pump because I thought the stock one that came on the block was supposed to be forward facing.... What showed up is identical to the spare I bought. They are identical, right? Thanks all, Greg
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- frankenmotor
- dohc
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Alright, thank you. What do you think about trying to find a used compressor over a remanufactured over brand new? I was looking to call a couple yards up in the northern latitudes, hoping even with higher mileage it might have seen less usage because of the fewer hot days... Whereas buying something used down here in the desert, and I'd guess it's probably close to toast?
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Thank you. How do I capture the system gasses without venting to the atmosphere? How much would a shop charge me to just take a little bit out?
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Crank pulley is on tight. This only happens when i've turned the A/C on.
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Video of the clutch. The part that the belt rotates on spins freely. AC compressor.mp4
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So if it's the compressor, I could grab a used one from car-part, or a local yard? What about replacing oil? I'm guessing the compressors will be empty when I get them from the yard or from car-part. isn't there an intricate measuring protocol necessary? AC compressor.mp4
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Hi, I loosened the belt, and it definitely was chirping/squealing at me, but the A/C was still blowing cold air with less drag. I tightened it just a touch to stop the squealing, and the dragging feeling is back.
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None that I can see.
