suprunner
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Everything posted by suprunner
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Running at idle, it seems to come on about once every 10 seconds. The dragging is certainly worse when we are above 100 degrees down here. This morning it was barely noticeable when driving, but it was probably only upper 80s; we just got some much needed moisture. It went back to "normal" as the day got hotter. -
The only thing that I hear is in the cab. When driving I hear the relay under the dash operating (kinda often, maybe every minute or two sometimes more) and the sound of compressing gasses under the dash on the passenger side. With the hood up standing in front of the car while idling, the AC doesn't make any unusual noises. I'll search the forum for threads with the hooting to see if there is a commonality to my situation. Thanks! Greg
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okay, thank you. I'll try that tomorrow.
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I do have a light-weight flywheel installed. I do have a brand new stock flywheel. Will that take care of this? Thank you, Greg
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Hi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg
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this works, I've done it. Fun too.
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Hi all, I'm looking to purchase a 2009 outback, 5mt. 160k miles. Hit something and the front bumper is cracked, along with the hood being a little wrinkled now. The steering wheel airbag deployed. I'm hoping to buy the car cheap, and replace the airbag myself. Is it just that simple? There are a lot of airbags on ebay for about $150, but they all say 4AT on the back of them. Does that mean they're not compatible with a 5 speed manual? Also, do I need to replace airbag control modules too? Seatbelts x4? I assume once I've done the manual labor, I need to have the components synced at a dealership? I haven't found a write-up on the forum for airbag replacement. OEM airbag from subaru is $550... Take care Greg
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Nothing to report on this.
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Thank you for pointing this out. I didn't mention it. When I do the timing, I count timing marks when doing alignment. Z1: 54.5 tooth length Z2: 51 tooth length Z3: 28 tooth length
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No Oil on plug boots, Plugs are maybe 5 months old from the factory with less than 8000 miles on them. I will try the water-bottle spraying. What should I be looking for? Recreation of stumbling? Arcing? Greg
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I'll do that, thank you. The covers are brand new along with the cam gears.
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Yes, I originally was running JUST the DOHC timing components, but I later put in a tensioner-idler bracket from a 251 or 253, that had an extra idler bearing on it. That didn't make a difference. Sounds like I need to check timing again. I've looked at timing quite a bit on this motor. I've put together toyota motors, and quite a few ej25Ds with their timing components, and never had an issue. Can you have too high of compression? I run a blend of 91 and 100 octane. I've run straight 100, but there's no difference. Same symptoms.
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No CEL anymore. I had misfire codes before I found the purge valve solenoid was defective. Now nothing pops up. I will check timing marks soon. In your opinion where should I be aligning the Intake marks with? I've used the marks on the timing cover, but I've read conflicting remarks... That I should use the seam(s) of the valve covers or head-to-block interface as the vertical orientation.
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The body is a '98 OBW. The motor was originally put together and placed in a '96 Lego. From the beginning it has always had a shake/unbalanced feeling between the RPM ranges of 1800-2500. It gets worse when it is not at operating temp, and/or the ambient temperatures cool down. Now, if I want to lightly cruise in any gear at 2400 rpm, it is starting to almost buck me around. It doesn't feel like I'm lugging the motor, it's a different symptom. I've driven ej22 Lego wagons with 15" steel rims and BFG TA/KOs at the same RPMs and gears (obviously lugging, but I was young, and hyperbole makes a point) and not felt this. We've been in the 40's in the mornings/evenings here in 'Vegas. It now also momentarily stalls anytime I touch the accelerator upon startup for the first 45-50 seconds, or 6-10 depressions of the accelerator...whichever comes first. Above 2500 rpm, the motor runs very nicely. Smooth and powerful all the way to redline. Temp sensor is brand new too. How else can I check for a vacuum leak if I've already done a smoke test, AND i've also used a propane torch... I think my fuel trims are within spec? I replaced the intake manifold gaskets last summer. They were only about 3 years old. No change. I used a small amount of Toyota FIPG above and below the gasket to help ensure a good seal. No CEL. I was getting misfire codes, but they went away after I blocked off the purge valve solenoid. It was allowing a full-time vent from the fuel tank, and the fuel trims were way out of spec according to @GeneralDisorder.
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Hi all, EJ251 shortblock, EJ25 D heads, STI gaskets I'm getting an unbalanced shake/hesitation from 1800-2500 rpm. I can't effectively accelerate until rpms are above 2500. Taking off from a stop, the car feels bogged down. Plugs, Wires are less than a year old. Fuel pump/filter/strainer within 6 months. Coil and ignition module are within spec according to an FSM that I read. There was a vacuum leak with the purge solenoid under the intake manifold. It was not operating. Before I found that, my STFT, and LTFT indicated (at idle) 3-10%, and 18-25% respectively. After plugging the vacuum line I have the numbers seen in the photo below. I just did a leak-down test. According to the gauges, I'm within 10% for each cylinder. ALTHOUGH, I do hear/feel air escaping through the intake, and the oil filler tube. I followed this for instructions: I have also done multiple compression tests. For cylinder #3 is 225 psi, the remaining cylinders are between 210 and 215 psi. Can one cylinder being higher than the rest cause an unbalancing/misfire/poor low-end acceleration? Even if the numbers are good, the fact that I have air coming through the oil filler tube and intake, does this suggest the motor is shot? Check my timing again? Is there any change in timing instructions when mating an EJ251 with 25D heads? The heads are closer together, and the bolt holes for the intake manifold needed to be filed down a bit in order to properly bolt it onto the long-block. I've done a smoke test in/around the intake/intake manifold/hoses etc, and don't come up with anything. Thanks for the help, Greg
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Hi, resurrecting an old thread hopefully I'm closer to an answer. I found that the Purge Valve under the intake manifold was faulty. Replaced it with a junkyard find. That helped until I'm assuming it died. So, I capped the line off from the top throttle body port, and have the gas cap slightly opened. Fuel trims are now (I think?) back to normal limits. Longterm Fuel Trim was 25.0 before capping off the line. See attached photo. Now, during the hot part of the day the idle bobbing is no longer present. I just did a leak-down test as well. According to the gauges, I'm within 10% for each cylinder. ALTHOUGH, I do hear/feel air escaping through the intake, and the oil filler tube. (I followed this for instructions: Compression for #3 is about 225 psi, the remaining cylinders are between 210 and 215 psi. Can one cylinder being higher than the rest cause an unbalancing/misfire? I'm still getting an unbalanced shake/hesitation from 1800-2500 rpm, and I'm getting random misfires for any of the cylinders every couple days and PO420 after the misfires. Even if the numbers are good, the fact that I have air coming through the oil filler tube and intake, does this suggest the motor is shot? Plugs, Wires are less than a year old. Fuel pump/filter/strainer within 6 months. Coil and ignition module are within spec according to an FSM that I read. Check my timing again? Can a light-weight flywheel cause the unbalanced feeling and misfires? @1 Lucky Texan @Rampage
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Thank you
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Hi all, Does anyone know if there is a difference between the crankshaft sprocket for a 00/01 EJ251 and a '97-98' EJ25D? I'm trying to diagnose some engine-performance issues and will be looking at my timing soon enough... I have a EJ 251 block mated with the heads from a EJ 25D. The crankshaft sprocket came from the 251, and the cams are for the 25D heads. I read on here that there may be differences between A/T and M/T sprockets of the same block, and I do not know which transmission this block was mated to. According to opposedforces.com, and an online subaru dealer parts page, the sprocket is the same between the 25D and SOHC blocks. Just wondering if anyone knows of a difference. Issues at hand include odd imbalance/vibrations between 1800 and 2500 rpm. Feels like there's a cylinder not firing. Smoke test, and leak-down test are in order, hopefully next weekend after finals. Take care, Greg
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Thank you for doing the research I should have. Greg
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Is there a difference between 11044AA770 and 11044AA642 Headgaskets?
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Thanks GD, Do you have recommendations on reman heads? I'm hoping to have all components of the motor built on one weekend, and have the other motor/transmission pulled and replaced on the other weekend. The dealers I spoke to said they don't do reman/rebuilt heads. I know I could do them myself, but it would take extra time, and I'm really looking for peace-of-mind. Like I said above, I'm most likely going to get something with at least 100k miles on it, so I'm assuming the valves need to be ran-through. . Greg
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@idosubaru @GeneralDisorder I found the part number: Soa478h1100r1 I've talked with three different dealerships. Two dealers said it included oil pump, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, and oil pan.. . . the third said it was just the block with pistons installed. One dealership said 3 year-36k mile warranty. One said only 3 year/36k mile IF the dealership installed it. The third said it was 12 month only. Price is about $2300. If it is only a 12 month warranty (I'm doing the installation) is that still a better deal than that reman long-block from that ebay store? Theirs is a 3-year unlimited mile. . . But they aren't subaru technicians is my guess. greg
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Thanks Bennie
