suprunner
-
Posts
225 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by suprunner
-
Alright, Thank you. I'll call around for that option. Do I use the STI MLS gaskets? Or just the stock ej253 headgaskets? I've been told from an older tractor mechanic/"retired" engine builder that I should run 15w-40 in these engines. I figure that's probably okay in my current ('98 OBW) while I'm living in Las Vegas, but with what I'm looking at with the EJ253, that has AVLS, correct? Should I assume that the normal 5w/10w-30 is where I should be? Greg -
Hi Rick, Are you referencing the ebay listing I showed above, or is there a reman from Subaru proper that you are talking about? I called my local dealership, and they only quoted me a 1 year warranty on a shortblock. Do you have a part number? Also, is the EJ257 something I should consider? Are their internals more robust? Would it mate to the 253 heads? I think they're basically the same price from what I've seen from a dealer site. Greg
-
Hi all, I'll most likely be purchasing a forester (2006-2008) or OBW (2005-2009) soon from an auto-auction. 5-speed much preferred. Plan is to spend about $500-$750 for something with decent interior, okay exterior, and something under 150k miles. Right now, I'm assuming that anything I get will have leaking Headgasket(s), and will have been run low on oil. Some of the auction sites have videos of the motors running, and they often have rod-knock. I need a dependable vehicle for the next 5 years, and I'm also pretty broke being in grad school. I can only afford something in the $5k-6k range, and everything I find is hyper-mileage and/or : leaking HGs, bad power steering pumps, leaking rocker covers, etc. AND people don't want less than they're asking. Just looked at an '06 Baja with 180k on it... guy said it was mint. They wanted $7k for 4 miss-matched bald tires, air-filled ps pump, leaking HG, leaking rear main, +1 quart overfilled oil, and a sticker over the check engine light that said (and I'm not joking) "Prayer helps". I don't want to be doing a lot of time-consuming general maintenance while I travel to/from my clinical observations, so I'm considering purchasing a JDM-imported engine, a remanufactured engine, or an oem subaru shortblock... Questions: If I purchase a JDM import, do I put new gaskets in right away before putting in the car? They're supposed to have 50-60k miles on them... Should valves be looked at? Costs about $2500 There's a store on ebay selling a remanufactured long block for $3400, and a 3-year unlimited mile warranty. They have 100% feedback as well. Is that a decent price? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-06-10-Subaru-2-5-SOHC-with-Active-Valve-Lift-System-Long-Block-Engine/392273889947?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3D1be2c92c13164e4abb215bcaf145c0f3%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D9%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D254707892452%26itm%3D392273889947%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3Aded9a85d-f60f-11ea-bc4a-74dbd180c969|parentrq%3A8991b27f1740ada5af08721ffffff85c|iid%3A1) Subaru Genuine shortblock for about $2000 shipped to my front door. 12-month unlimited warranty, and doesn't need to be installed by a subaru shop. This is for the stock EJ253 block. Should I get a different block? EJ257? I'm not looking for anything but a leak-free, dependable engine/drivetrain. What headgaskets should I use to replace the SOHC paper-like-gaskets? 04-06 STI MLS headgaskets? I have a low-mile 5mt to go with the car. Even if the body is messed up a bit, as long as the drivetrain is solid, that's what i really care about. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks guys. Greg
-
It is sold. There are not very many down here in the desert. If so, folks want a lot for them, and they are beat to crap.
-
Hi all, I'm looking at purchasing an '06 OBW that had a JDM 2.5 ej253 installed a couple months ago. The seller sent me a video of it idling.: There's a weird slightly rhythmic clicking/clacking noise that repeats every 1.5 - 2 seconds. It doesn't seem tied to the RPMs of the engine though. Any thoughts? I have to drive 4 hours to see/pick the car up. Hoping to feel more secure before making the 8-hour round trip. Greg
-
Thank you all for replying
-
Thanks for the input. I'm cautious on 250k, and the vehicle being in an auction yard. . .
- 8 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- auto auction
- obw
- (and 5 more)
-
Were there any drive-ability symptoms before the spark plug extenders?
-
Hi all, Looking for advice. I am looking at purchasing a 2007 OBW. 2.5i, 5mt with 245k on it. It's from an online auto-auction site, that just happens to have their physical address 5 minutes from my house. It's priced at about $1000. I'm able to go look at it, so that is a plus. Anyway, thoughts. Right now I'm assuming that the motor and/or the transmission is shot. I have the transmission/clutch covered, as I have a 5mt from an '05 LGT wagon with about 60k on it, and the clutch is brand new. Motor though, is a different question. Again, I assume it is toast. So, I wanted to know if anyone has ever bought a jdm import from ebay? They claim to have 50-60k on them, and the price is around $1900. If I go that route, should I replace all gaskets before throwing the motor in? Or, should I try and find a short-block/long block from any of the subaru dealers, costing close to $3k? I'm also assuming that the suspension will be tired, and possibly the brakes. Other than that, what else should I consider with this high mileage of OBW? I'm unfamiliar with this generation, so what else should I be looking at having failed or about to? My total price range for everything is $5500-$6000. I've looked at quite a few used cars from that price range, and I only find Subarus that are high mileage and beat-to-crap/neglected by their owners. I'm not really open to jumping to a new platform (GM, Ford, Honda, etc) as I very familiar with subaru, and my time is limited. UNLESS someone has a very compelling argument to do so. The goal is to have a dependable car for at least the next 6 years so that I can get through grad-school and my first few years of work while I pay my loans off. I have to do clinical rotations next year, and because of Covid and its ripple-effect(s), there's a good chance that I'll have to commute a long distance for at least one 12-week rotation. As long as the interior isn't burnt away from a fire, I am fine putting seat-covers on. I really just need the drivetrain (and I guess the A/C since I live in the desert) to work dependably. Are these motors (EJ253, SOHC correct?) prone to oil consumption? Or leakage like all subarus? If I buy one from the dealer, will it still have consumption issues if so? Thanks for your time guys, Greg https://www.copart.com/lot/43891860/clean-title-2007-subaru-legacy-outback-2-5i-nv-las-vegas (please don't buy it out from under me) @1 Lucky Texan@GeneralDisorder@Fairtax4me@Rampage
-
Hey Larry, thanks for the offer. I'm unfortunately flying home empty-handed. Turned out it was leaking oil and coolant, and had some wiring issues. Kinda crappy as I'd asked multiple times on fluid loss/consumption. Pretty sure that they're just going to sell it to someone without telling them about it.
-
Hi all, I'm about to fly to Denver tomorrow to pick up an '07 Forester from the original owner, and drive back to Las Vegas. I want to bring a short bag of tools in case anything was to happen. I also want to change the oil before hitting the road. I've already purchased a checked bag, because TSA states that any tools over 7 inches long must be checked. I'm just a little concerned about having my tools jacked. They aren't the nicest tools, but they're also my only tools. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks, Greg
-
I found the purge valve under the passenger intake to be inoperable. Swapped it out for one from a junk yard. Has helped considerably. Now, the surging only happens for short periods of time during the hottest parts of the day. If I drive in the morning (cooler temps) the car is happy. So, something evap/vacuum related. Thanks for your input @Rampage, and @GeneralDisorder
-
I've followed the FSM instructions to test the voltage and resistance for Ignitor and Ignition coil through the harnesses. Coil reads slightly high for resistance at its terminals and removed from the car. Now, following the guide to test the MAF, I found that voltage going to the MAF is good. Resistance though, I am stuck/lost as I'm less than a novice at electrical diagnostics. According to the FSM I need to fix a short in the harness? When testing between terminal #5, and ground, the meter doesn't read anything, as if the probes aren't touching anything. How do I find the short between the two harness connectors? Can I splice in a ground near the connectors?
-
Since I moved here, I've been running 15-40 in the motor. I need to put some heavier gear oil in the transmission too. I just got done connecting the single-wire green connectors under the dash to listen to all of the solenoids coming on/off. Everything seems to be working except the purge valve under the passenger intake. Could that be contributing to the idle bobbing? What is its job?
-
Yeah, I wish it was that simple. Oil and filter has been changed many times since symptoms first appeared. Thanks for the input.
-
Yeah, I was worried about needing to check the valves. I don't have a break from school until October, so making time right now is an issue. Not looking forward to pulling the motor and having it sit out for a while. I know it can be done in-chassis, but that also just seems like a PITA. . I think I will try to electrically diagnose all sensors/units this weekend and make a decision. I'm considering buying a newer wagon now. Tax return should be coming soon...
-
OE spark plugs and wires, Brand new delphi fuel pump/strainer, and fuel filter is about 4 months old. I recently checked fuel pressure, and it was at spec. The pressure elevated as the engine went into its idle stumble, but I didn't pinch of the return line. The idle stumble/surge, and the unbalanced feeling at 1800-2500 rpm are symptoms that followed this motor from a different car. The motor (all onboard sensors) and the MAF, minus brand new temp sensor/sender and knock sensor came over into this current wagon. So, ignition coil(s), MAF(s), crank/cam sensors, fuel injectors, TPS are all implicated in my mind. I have checked compression, and it's 210-225 psi between all cylinders. Cylinder 3 has 225 psi, and the other 3 are sitting in the 210's. Is it possible to have intake valves stuck open causing a lean situation? I haven't serviced them, and the manual says that's an 80-100k job... if that is a possibility though, why does the motor purr when at higher speeds/rpms?
-
So the coil could be fine. I've had misfire codes for every cylinder pop up. Seems random. They mostly happen at highway speeds (even though this is when the car runs the best) and very hot (being in Vegas that is always right now), although misfire codes for cylinders 1 & 2 popped up with a P0183 (fuel temp sensor A circuit) while leaving a parking lot. I will be checking the voltage and resistance to/from the MAF hopefully soon. It's tough getting to work on the car consistently and juggle grad school too. The thing stumbles/surges when at operating temps and idling (always when hot outside, rarely/never when it's colder than 70 degrees), and feels very unbalanced at 1800-2500 rpm. The compression numbers are pretty good, with one cylinder being kinda high in comparison, but still within 10% of them all. . . The valves sound loud. Is it possible that the valve clearances are so bad that i'm causing misfires? GD mentioned that my Long Term and short term fuel trims indicate that the thing runs very lean, and I need to figure that out...which I'm assuming is the MAF... I've yet to test it via the FSM's guidelines, but i've swapped between two used oem MAFs and one aftermarket MAF, and symptoms stay the same.
-
Thanks, I will keep that in mind!
-
Batteries were brand new. I jumped the terminals with a wire as you had suggested, and the reading was .4 ohms. It was a multimeter that I bought almost ten years ago, and didn't take very good care of. Thrown/bounced around a bunch in the back of a car/tool-bag... I just bought a new multimeter (shows zero when putting probes together) and tested the coil. First tested after pulling right off the car after sitting in the sun. Terminals read 1.3 ohms. Then I waited for it to get to room temperature, and I'm getting .9 ohms between terminals 1 and 2 and 2/3. Safe to say it's out of spec? Per FSM the highest resistance should be .803 ohms. Lowest .657 ohms.
-
Okay, I may need a new multi meter or cables at a minimum. The probes don't appear to be serviceable, and when touched together the multimeter reads a 0.4 for resistance.
-
Thanks for the clarification Rampage, and as always, thank you for the guidance GD. TPS appears fine. Measuring the resistance at the coil, I get 0.0 -0.4 ohms between terminals 1/2, and 0.4-0.6 ohms between terminals 2 and 3. According to an FSM, that's an issue. Resistance between the secondary terminals are all right on the mark though. I have an Import Direct-brand ignition coil hanging around (new) that gives me 0.9-1.3 ohms between terminals 1 & 2, and 0.7 ohms between terminals 2 & 3. Just to be redundant, those numbers aren't correct, and I should be looking at purchasing a subaru OEM coil? Thanks for your help, Greg
-
1998 OBW, 5MT 251/25D Hi all, looking to test my TPS. Been getting some misfires, and when hooked up to an OBD II reader, the TPS position is not the most consistent when giving values, as well as it never achieves 100% when I put the pedal to the floor. I've gone through three FSM versions so far, and the instructions say to use the ECM. Cool. I have the ECM out and exposed. Problem is that none of the connector options given B84, No. 24 & 25, or No. 20 & 6 connectors will give me what I want. Either 25, or No. 6 don't even have wires going to them. I'm trying to diagnose a few problems, from another post. Following the FSM diagnostics page as best as I can, and would like to test things before just spending money to replace. And say I did replace the TPS, how would I adjust it? Is there a place to get a FSM that is tied to my VIN? Does subaru provide/sell such things? Thanks for your time, Greg
-
I've found this. I'm assuming that I should start here. The MAF has been cleaned, but it is old, and all my symptoms are under the MAF column.. Is there a diagnostic section on each of the components here? Same for TPS...
