suprunner
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Everything posted by suprunner
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Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg -
I will try this. Although it is not a metallic and hard clack, it is a softer tick, that I feel like I can hear, isolated on the passenger side. Greg
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I think/hope at worst myself or fiancé downshifted too aggressively while under load. I was also recently told that you have to prime the TB tensioner before installation. News to me. I've done about 10 timing belts now, and I haven't had one fail... it had been down in Denver for a couple nights... our last wagon looked as if it had gone through a war from all of the people that hit it while parked. So maybe that? What year is your 5speed? Greg
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Thanks for the advice. I did a compression check. 3 attempts per cylinder. #1, #2, and #4 all had 190 psi, while cylinder #3 had 200. Vehicle runs and drives well. I spoke with a +20 year lead tech at a Subaru dealership in Golden. He said I'm most likely fine. My fingers are crossed. I will be in search of JDM timing belt covers from early-mid 90's. I've been told they have mounts for a timing belt guide on each upper cam.
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EJ251/25D hybrid Original posting with backstory: timing belt jumped a few teeth headed up I-70 two days ago. Reset timing, and it runs well, but noticeable tick coming from the passenger side of the motor. That is the side that the belt skipped. Yet to do a compression test, but I wanted to know what my options are if a valve or two bent. I'm supposed to start grad school this coming Monday, and need to get from Denver to Las Vegas. I'm limited on time. If I don't fix the valves, what are the chances it eats the valves while driving down there? I know I can have a motor out and apart within 4 hours, but the time it takes to get parts and everything needed gets me down to the wire on being at school on time. If I can at least get it to Nevada, I have a garage that'll allow me time to fix it properly... Thoughts?
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Thanks Bennie. There's a definite tick coming from that side of the engine now.
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Pulled timing covers off. Passenger side cams off by three or four teeth. what did I do wrong? I'm bummed this motor is trashed. I really liked the hybrid setup. I won't have time to fix valves. Grad school starts next Monday.
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GD, do I idle the engine and test voltage at the injectors? Just did NOID test and there is a pulse light on all four injectors, yet I'm still getting low voltage codes for all injectors. Greg
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A-zone tested the alternator out of vehicle and it passed.
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I just rewired the injectors from a hot-wire that I attempted. Sprayed QD cleaner in all connections of the engine harness. I now had 12v at every injector, with key in ON. Started the motor. Sounds mildly better, maybe more balanced, but got P-codes for every injector getting low voltage. Tested the alternator while idling (no lights), got 13.4v. Turned lights on, and got 13.2 with falling numbers. Took the alternator out to get tested. Could this be a contributor?
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Hi all. In a pinch. Currently stranded in Golden/Denver Colorado. Vehicle: 1998 Outback engine: ej251/25D hybrid Story: swapped a great running motor from my rusty '96 to this '98. In the process I put a NEW timing kit, NEW oem plugs, new oil pump, new clutch-kit/slave cyl., new oil pressure sender... ran beautifully all the way here from South Dakota, with many trips up and down the canyons from Hwy 119 to the Front Range. Two days ago, CEL came on and I stopped at an auto parts store. Got two misfire codes, and not having noticed any symptoms I cleared it. It coincided with using the a/c, so I moved the a/c harness off of/away from the spark plug wire. I figured something may have arced. No issues until trying to climb out of Denver up I-70 yesterday. CEL came on and flashed a few times. Pulled the car immediately to the side of the road and was turned off. Oil light did NOT come on. Symptoms came. Horribly shaky idle, no power. I checked all spark plugs (on the side of the road), and they were tight, and looked in okay condition. Idles like it is missing cylinders. While idling I pulled off/on all spark plug wires and injectors. No difference (except VERY minor idle-up for 1 second) with cylindees 1/3. Motor dies when 2/4 are pulled. Got towed to a local dealership and they were nice enough tp read the codes. P0261, and P0267 I believe this is Low/No voltage to cylinders 1 & 3 injectors. (In my frenzy I installed a new coil, and new spark plug wires) I took a volt meter to the yellow wire of each injector plug, with ignition switched to ON. 2 & 4 get 12v, 1 & 3 are dead. I tried directly wiring the yellow wires to the battery, and there was no difference in engine performance. Where/what should be my next step? Is it true that the injectors get constant power, but the ECU/ECM adjusts the pulse timing via internal grounds? I'll be looking at diagrams today to try and get this going...any suggestions will help. I'm supposed to be getting towed back up to Gilpin County where I'll have a garage to sit in. Thank you in advance for any suggestions! Greg
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Hello everyone. Just got done moving my High Compression EJ251/EJ25D hybrid from a '96 Legacy Wagon into a '98 Outback. Along with it I put in a JDM import 5mt from an '05 Legacy GT Turbo wagon. 4.11 end range. This motor and this transmission makes a perfect ride. All except for the fact that the exhaust manifold is in contact with one of the steering rack hydraulic lines. Rattles like a woodpecker jack-hammering the side of your house at 0500. I'm assuming the heat from the manifold will not be good in the long run. This was not a problem in the '96. What gives? Are there taller/shorter exhaust manifolds? Are there any super thick exhaust manifold gaskets that I should be aware of?
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The one that is currently installed is one from RockAuto or advanced auto.... Think there is anything really different?
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Thanks guys. I have a non-subaru PCV in there. When I pull the motor to reseal it, i'll throw in the OEM from the dealership. I know I can make a motor that doesn't leak. I've done it before on numerous occasions! Leaky gaskets drives me nuts. Especially when it drips on the exhaust collector-joint.... I don't really like the smell of burning oil as you sit at a stop light with the heater blowing...I've once seen a motor that had what looked like a miniature K&N air filter cone...siting on one of the Crank Case ventilation ports that sit on the top of the heads/valve covers. I wonder if that is something I should pursue.. Greg
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In Case anyone is interested, this will help you create the 251/25D hybrid. @86BRATMAN helped me out with this information when I built my motor. I've done everything except that I'm using stock exhaust: "...run the 04-06 ej257 head gaskets, they are 3 layer steel unlike the ej251 single layer which is the most ridiculous thing I've ever seen. I use the sti gasket when redoing ej251 and ej253 head gaskets every time I do them and haven't had a repeat failure. Been using them for 6 or 7 years now. I wouldn't use the ej25d gaskets because of their thickness, they will leave you with a quench height that is much more than optimal for performance. Along with using the thinner gaskets you'll want to use an ej205/257 timing belt tensioner bracket, they have an extra idler pulley that will take up the extra slack that will be in the belt. The timing belt an all other timing components will be ej25d parts For the clutch, I like the exedy stage 1 kit. Stockish pedal feel but gives a good bite. If you're looking to get the most performance from the engine equal length headers are the way to go, they take away the popular "boxer rumble" that unequal length headers give but they are better for power all through the rpm band. You'll want to use the water pipe from the pump to the heater core from a 25d, the sohc pipe is different and will interfere with the inner timing cover." Take care, Greg
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How often do cam belts break? I've had only one bust, and that was an original at 182,000 miles in my old 1.8L EA82... Everyone talks of interference motors as if they've got contagious boils... I understand the risk of hurting components if the belt breaks, and the possible cost of fixing that (of course mine is going to snap the moment I turn it on this morning!) ... But why even bother with modifying a motor beyond its stock state? Is High Compression even that reliable in the long term? Wouldn't that add improper stresses that weren't necessarily designed into the system of these EJ motors? To me, if you're taking the risk of spending money and time on a motor build, you might as well make it work really well. Honestly, the 251 + 25D blows the 25D + 22 out of the water in use-ability... If you are making a strict rock-crawler, then the 25D + 22 heads will have a lot of low-end torque... but just fall on its face once on the highway. The 251 build has probably 90%-95% of the lowest-end-torque at worst... but you could enjoy the power all the way to 6k rpm if you wanted as well, making highway driving more enjoyable. I think the 25D + 22 head build would be phenomenal if you mated it with a Toyota W-series transmissions and transfer case setup... 4.56 or 4.88s.... My $.02 Greg
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This motor is currently in a '96 Legacy L wagon, with the stock ECU. I'll be swapping it into a '98 outback, paired with a 5mt from an '05 GT wagon soon. I think the only problem with this setup is that it requires the intake of the DOHC, and might be a real headache to swap into anything that utilized the SOHC 2.5L... Correct me if I'm wrong? I'd love to move this into a newer platform if it won't be a problem. . . I don't see what is so "exotic" about this build. I've seen that term used a few times. . . STI gaskets are just gaskets... not made of Pixie dust, or Chicken Lips. Maybe because it's best to run 91 octane with it? But, aren't you supposed to do that with ANY of these high-compression frankenmotors? I think this motor would be awesome in a first gen lego, and a riot if it could fit in an EA82 platform paired with AWD. The 2nd Gen wagon's are not heavy, but they aren't featherweights, and this motor can push you into your seat a little bit. I think you could go crazy with cam work, and exhaust and it'd be even more peppy. Again, I'm running bare-bones stock with everything.
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I regret selling my EJ22 swapped Loyale. Especially because I think the dude sent it to the crusher... I built it in a place where there were no emission standards... and sold it in Colorado... I did an ugly looking harness reduction, put the ecu in a cheap lockbox and put it where the spare tire went... Lifted it with the tempo and accord springs, and put 14" pugs with BFGs on it. If they weren't just tin kleenex boxes waiting to be squished in an auto accident I would do it again, and again, and again. The EJ swap probably took me a month worth of weekends to accomplish. I remember head scratchers as I would peel out from stop lights the first day I had it swapped, with the 13" wheels still. There was an exhaust leak so the subaru rumble was thunderous... I would definitely love to mate it with a dual range box, and also do an AWD swap to boot as well. There's just something about those old Loyales and GL/DLs. Good luck! Greg
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Motor: EJ 251 block, stock pistons EJ 25D heads, STI headgaskets Transmission: 5mt 4.11 ends Hey folks, I have a question about RPMs and oil pressure. I have noticed that if I am to drive with RPMs above 3k, say on the highway or if I'm accelerating aggressively often that my oil level will drop quickly. I know that I am leaking from the lower half-moons on each lower-rear corner of the heads, and the rear main is leaking as well. If I am to drive around like a grandmother, and stay under 70 mph (under 3k rpm) on the interstate, that the oil leak is very slow, and I can last a month (two fuel fill-ups) before needing to add any additional oil. Could I be at too high of oil pressure when I'm in the higher RPM ranges? If I'm running a #9 oil pump, would this have any effect? I've yet to check the PCV valve, as it's maybe three years old. I will have this motor out in about a month or two, and was going to re-seal (and mate to 5mt from '05 GT-t wagon) it, but I'd like to try and address the theory now. Are there PCVs that work better for high compression options, if this is a contributor? Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. Greg
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I've done the EJ25D block with EJ22 heads. Had a bunch of torque. I could drive around in 4th and 5th gear around town. BUT, trying to pass cars on the highway.... Really anything above 3500 rpm, and it felt as if it was choking. I now have a 251 block mated with 25D heads, STI headgaskets. I love this motor. I can be in 4th gear for a lot of town driving, and there's noticeable pull all the way to red line. I'm even running stock exhaust. This is the motor that should have been designed stock from the factory. Just my two cents.
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Perfect! I am excited then.
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I drive like I have a 17 year old dog in the back seat... I love my frankenmotor and want this 5mt for its gear ratios. I think I would maintain excellent fuel economy at interstate speeds, and not have to put on the blinkers going up to the Eisenhower Tunnel..I don’t think the 5mts are that bomb proof, or I got 4 crappy ones... I work for a used Subie lot, and we’ve had to replace many a 5mt. Maybe two autos in the past 10 years.
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Is “VSS” a vehicle speed sensor? Why would I have issues if I installed a speedo gear wouldn’t that take care of it? I’d rather split the case then actually replace transmissions these days..
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Hi all, I am about to throw my SOHC 2.5/DOHC 2.5 frankenmotor into a '98 outback in pretty great (cosmetic) condition.... but it is 200,000 miles. I have gone through about 4 different 5mts in the past 6 years... All were cheap, but all were high mileage. I'm planning on purchasing a transmission that came out of the '05 Legacy GT wagons... Transmission code: TY757VBAAB... The gear ratios look to be a dream! With my wheel/tire choice, I can be at 3000 rpm and going 75 mph down the interstate and thus keep very good fuel economy. My problem though... In the picture of the transmission that I'm looking at, there doesn't appear to be a speedo-sensor installed... There is a plug circled in orange... Anybody have a guess if there will be a speedo gear in there when I take the plug out? If not, I'm assuming that I'd have to split the case halves to install? Just a matter of spending the time to do so? Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get this information as the transmission is coming from an online auction source. Supposed to be at about 50,000 miles. I guess I could go without a speedometer, and just memorize the tachometer-to-gear-ratio-to-wheel-size speeds off of a chart... I figure it'll last much longer behind a NA motor versus turbo... http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Thanks all, Greg
