suprunner
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Everything posted by suprunner
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https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631527 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2220331 Also, I suggest PMing 86Bratman. He has built a few frankenmotors, and would have helpful information. He gave me great advice when I built my 2.5 SOHC block/2.5D Head motor. Good luck. -
I don't the performance gains are worth the effort with the 22-heads. The 2.5D/2.2 heads combo just isn't that impressive unless you spend the money for cams, and exhaust. If you do try and mate the with the 2.5 SOHC block, the performance is unknown... Also, which headgaskets would you use? The cheapest route would probably be to just keep the waterboxer in place and enjoy it for what it is... But in my opinion, after having done many different motor swaps, the time and money can be wasted if you cut corners... I don't think you have the right components to mate for a frankenmotor. I think you either need to find a 2.5D block for the 22 heads, or 2.5D heads for that SOHC block. OR, just figure out what is wrong with the SOHC long-block and fix that. It's not an impressive motor, but it will work well, and I hear the SOHC heads actually flow pretty well. You can pop the heads off, and fill the intakes with water to see if there are valve issues.. There are plenty of videos on youtube that can help you determine if there are valve issues... If none of them are problematic, then you'll know if it's the block. The SOHC block and DOHC heads is a great motor. The DOHC block with 22 heads does come with a power improvement over stock as well, but it is limited. You may need to call around to different Subaru specialty shops to pick their brains and see if your combos can work.
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I responded to your other post, but I figured this would help stimulate more content too... Personally, I wouldn't put that block and those heads together. I WOULD use that 2.5L SOHC block to mate with 25D heads though. I think a lot of folks do the EJ22 heads/intake on 2.5D block. I've done that, and I wasn't very impressed. The heads do not flow very well, and power was lost above 3500 rpm for me. Lots of Low-end torque, almost like a truck though. I am now running a 2.5L block from a 2001 Impreza (SOHC) with heads from a '97 Outback (2.5L DOHC; Found the heads for $600 reconditioned from SuperRupair in Boulder, CO. I'd call and talk to Doug. See if he has anything on hand. Their used warehouse is worth a visit. They have shelves, 10-foot tall full of 2.5L heads, and anything else you can dream of. I'm not sure if they'll ship, but it's worth a shot). + STI MLS headgaskets. The power is above and beyond what the other motor had. It has consistent power/gain/pull all the way to 6000 rpm. If it wasn't in a legacy wagon, I think it would give some stock wrx's a fun run. Whatever you do though, the intake/heads have to match the wiring/ECU. So for anything pre-SOHC you need that spec intake/heads...My legacy is also a big pile of rust now, and I'm looking to move the motor to a donor. I'm constrained to pre-1999 though with this intake/heads choice. Once you go to SOHC-land (post-1999), I'm unfamiliar with what can be used for high-compression builds. Greg
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Personally, I wouldn't put that block and those heads together. I WOULD use that 2.5L SOHC block to mate with 25D heads though. I think a lot of folks do the EJ22 heads/intake on 2.5D block. I've done that, and I wasn't very impressed. The heads do not flow very well, and power was lost above 3500 rpm for me. Lots of Low-end torque, almost like a truck though. I am now running a 2.5L block from a 2001 Impreza (SOHC) with heads from a '97 Outback (2.5L DOHC; Found the heads for $600 reconditioned from SuperRupair in Boulder, CO. I'd call and talk to Doug. See if he has anything on hand. Their used warehouse is worth a visit. They have shelves, 10-foot tall full of 2.5L heads, and anything else you can dream of. I'm not sure if they'll ship, but it's worth a shot). + STI MLS headgaskets. The power is above and beyond what the other motor had. It has consistent power/gain/pull all the way to 6000 rpm. If it wasn't in a legacy wagon, I think it would give some stock wrx's a fun run. Whatever you do though, the intake/heads have to match the wiring/ECU. So for anything pre-SOHC you need that spec intake/heads...My legacy is also a big pile of rust now, and I'm looking to move the motor to a donor. I'm constrained to pre-1999 though with this intake/heads choice. Once you go to SOHC-land (post-1999), I'm unfamiliar with what can be used for high-compression builds.
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New Battery installed. My headlights are less yellow... but dimming still happens. I had my alternator tested, and it passed all inspections... I had the auto center test it about four times just to see if there'd be an issue once it warmed up.. I've also recently added 5 new grounds to the engine compartment. One connecting the alternator to the body. Each body-point has been ground to metal... No change in the dimming. I did find a blown bulb in my rear passenger-side tail light. The housing for the bulb-socket was actually melted/deformed. I removed the bulb to find it rusted... The dimming/idle shuttering is slightly less... I'm assuming that I have a (many?) bad grounds in my wiring harness for the lights?
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"Napa Power' had a sticker on it that said 11/12. I was told that that is the delivery date for it.
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I meant that I had read that the vehicle's charging system may overcharge the battery while on a long trip.
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All of the usual lights turn on when I turn the key.
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Wouldn't I have a gauge-cluster light coming on if this were true? Or is the alternator just barely not doing its job?
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Hey folks, Looking to change my battery. Mine is over 5 years old right now. Recently, after driving on the highway for about a tank of gas, it wouldn't turn the starter over. I had to get a jump from a fella while in Wyoming yesterday. Also, my lights will dim when I turn on any electrical accessory or touch the brake (even if at highway speeds/high rpms) Local auto parts store has a couple options for $140-$180 (both have the same numbers...CCA: 640, CA: 800), but my sam's club has an AGM battery with 36 month replacement for $145 (CCA: 640, CA: 800). I've read a little bit about AGM's needing special charging systems, and that they can be over charged. Any thoughts?
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You need to find out how tired the valves are. Take the heads off, and pour some water in the valves and see how long it takes to drain. There are many videos on the tube that can help with that. if the valves aren't trash, and the buckets/shims are in tolerance, don't do anything. If it needs work, you can do it, send it to a shop, or find a local subaru specialty shop that has a used-parts-department and see what their refurbished heads are. I bought a prettied-up set from a place called SuperRupair in Boulder, CO. I didn't have the time or space to do it. I bet they'd mail you a set if you really needed it. Cost/benefit... I've done this to my wagon, and won't go back. My girlfriend's 99 2.5D has a bad ring. I'm NOT putting another one of those back in. The hybrid motor makes the car actually functional on the roads. You can pass people on the highway. You can speed up to get out of somebody's way. You don't have to be in 3rd gear going up to through the Divide on I-70. Also, I know of a handful of guys in Denver that have these in their RS coupes and they rally them hard beating every BRZ. Still going after ten years. I usually drive like a grandma, so I hope to see this motor go for a looong time. The body will rust away first, probably.
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I would search for a local Subaru Parts group on Facebook. There is one in Colorado, that I sourced my shortblock for $200. Guys with imprezas or RSs are always looking to get rid of the SOHC 2.5 so they can go turbo. The STI headgaskets are the same price as the regular MLS. It's not that exotic. Everything else is the same. The normal EJ25d drops out by 4500 rpm. The EJ251/D hybrid is power all the way to 6k. I'm not even using headers or any larger diameter exhaust. Fuel economy is basically the same depending on how heavy your foot is. If the transmission fails, get another high mileage one for dirt cheap. I've not seen a subaru with a blown rear diff. The universal/carrier bearing can blow, but your car is just getting broken in at that mileage. Cars are toilets for money to be thrown into, no matter how new they are.
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If you can:: refurbish the heads, find an EJ251 block from an early 2000s, 04-06 STI MLS headgaskets. I'm a poor college student, and it was WELL worth it. I think this motor should have been the stock option. Greg
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Depressing the pedal enough for the tail lights to come on does it. Last night I had just gotten home and started testing what you suggested. I turned the headlights off, and noticed that every time I depressed the brake (the usual stuttering), the aftermarket radio's eject-button light would come on. Today, I pulled the fuse for the radio out. Looked good. I kept it out. No Stuttering. There is still a light flutter of the headlights. Could the radio have been incorrectly wired when it was installed? It came with the car when I bought it. The radio part of it died soon after, leaving just the CD player and auxiliary input... Is this related, or did I just remove a load from a system that has a problem somewhere else? I mean, I can turn the lights on, the defroster and the heater, and depressing the brake doesn't bother the idle now. ...
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The issue is a little different. Before the new MAF, it surged up and down uncontrollably and was basically not driveable. This is just an extreme annoyance of mine now at stop lights.
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I will have to experiment tomorrow. I usually notice it when coming to a stop at a light... BUT the times were it will randomly surge up and down on warmer days, I've taken my foot off the pedal and put the parking brake on, and it continued and then stabilized,... If there is a vacuum leak, can I test with a propane torch? Opening the propane valve slightly and passing it by the vacuum hoses?
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I forgot to mention: About two and a half years ago, I was having horrible up/down surges of the motor as soon as it reached operating temps. I researched, and the conclusion was that it was the AFM. Well, I replaced it, and that corrected the surging. Does it matter that I replaced it with a non-subaru AFM? I bought it new from rock auto. .
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Forgive me, Hatch Harness boot? Is this where the EFI harness enters the firewall to the cab?
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Got it, thanks!
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What is the CTS? O2 sensors are about 4 years old. Would they throw a CEL? I do not have a CEL/Codes. IAC was cleaned I created grounds from the block, alternator, and Intake Manifold to spots on the body, and I ground off the paint to do so. I used the cometic custom hybrid gasket, that was supposedly the same thickness as the 25D. I'm not the right person to ask on that though. Those expensive gaskets poured oil out of them. if I can say something though, that build is pretty lack-luster at highway speeds; at least it was for me. Anything above 3500 and it had nothing. I strongly suggest the EJ251/EJ25D hybrid with 04-06 STI mls headgaskets. Power all the way to redline. Not as much low-end torque (the first frankenmotor, I could drive around town in 4th and 5th gear no problem..) but much more functional power IMHO.
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Hey everyone. 1996 Legacy Wagon L 260k 2000 EJ 251 with EJ25D heads 2000 4.11 5mt I'm having some problems that I'm not sure where to turn to. I have an idling issue. When at operating temperatures, my idle will be low (around 500) but not rough. When the lights are on, and I depress the brake, the lights will dim and the idle will drop and stumble. Never shut off. This problem has been present with two separate motors. First with an EJ25/EJ22 frankenmotor, and now my current one. I have swapped out my alternator (both read 14v), removed the crappily-installed uhaul trailer package, and created new grounds/cleaned up grounds in the engine bay. No change. I had the battery checked at the auto store, and it is said to be good. I've also cleaned the terminals/cables. I have suspicions that I'd like to see if they are valid/relevant. IIRC, this problem surfaced a couple years ago after I had replaced the then dead fuel pump. I did not replace it with an OEM pump. This one came from the local auto store. Around this time as well, the aftermarket radio quick working. The cd player works, and I can also use the auxiliary port, but no radio. I didn't listen to the radio at the time, so I never bothered. All fuses are good. Could either of these be related? Or, since this only happens when the engine is warm, could it be the coolant temp sensor? I believe I transferred the Crank/Cam/ Temp sensors from the last motor... Sometimes after a long drive on a warmer day, at idle it will sometimes idle up and down for a short period of time then normalize. Computer related? Thank you for your time. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg
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If an OBDII reader isn't connecting, is there a way to jump the OBDII female end?
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My fuse box doesn't reference it, and none of the fuses in the kick-panel or engine bay are blown.
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Hey guys, I have a '98 Legacy Wagon that I'm trying to read some CEL codes from. The problem that I am finding is that the black connectors are not anywhere to be seen under the dash. Also, when I connect an OBDII reader, nothing happens. No power. I've checked all fuses. I've been searching the internet, and it appears that my OBD port isn't the same as everyone elses... I've attached pictures of what my OBD port looks like. Pin 16 is supposed to be the power lead, but I don't have a wire there. Any suggestions?
