suprunner
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Everything posted by suprunner
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Hi all, I'm about to mate an EJ251 from a 2000 Impreza RS to EJ25D heads from a '98/'99 Outback. I was told to utilize the head gaskets from the EJ251 (very thin) to bump up the compression. I was also told that I needed to use copper sealant on the HG's. I'm not sure why, the shop didn't have the time to explain to me... Looking around the other subaru forums, I've not seen any mention of copper sealant being used for ANY application, be it stock or hybrid. Ideas? Is there a difference between the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV and Copper sprays? The RTV states that it is rated for 700 degrees farhenheit. . . Take care, Greg. -
Does this post help the conversation? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1246839
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Unsure of the other side... I was wandering about the expansion of the head/block/gasket...
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Maybe it does seep slightly during use? I'm not sure. I just noticed that after driving, things were dry where they were once wet (during start up). Is it possible for expansion to take place after reaching operating temperature? It's just enough to stop or slow the seepage?
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Hey all, I finished a Frankenmotor build about a month ago. I used the short block out of a '96 OB, and the heads from a '96 Legacy. I surfaced the heads on my own via the flat board/sandpaper method. I used .056" thick Cometic MLS headgasket with their hybrid pattern. This is my third HG replace dealing with a Subaru motor, and I have other background experience with Toyota motors. I'm just trying to convey that I'm not unfamiliar with these things, nor to say that I'm an expert. I have found coolant seeping from the passenger-side head upon start up. It'll seep out onto the exhaust and smoke. After running to temperature/driving, the seepage stops and all is dry underneath. I have not seen any white smoke from out of the tailpipe; usage from the over-flow tank is not unreasonable. I followed the directions for headbolt tightening via the FSM. Doing this before, I've yet to see this seepage. But I was also using OEM headgaskets from Subaru. The MLS HG was pretty beefy. The rings surrounding the combustion chambers were aggressive. I've talked with some big-power-turbo Subaru enthusiasts, and they've mentioned different specifics for the torque. They use 30-60-90ft-lbs (I believe those were the numbers they referenced...) increment increases (first tightening is 30ft-lbs, second go around 60ft-lbs...). Is it possible that the FSM procedure doesn't squeeze the MLS HG enough? Can I safely tighten the head bolts now? Say another 25-45 degrees? Or is there an torque end-value that is actually achieved via the FSM process? Or is this a moot point, and I should be preparing for a HG replacement? I watch my gauges and fluids religiously, so I know that I could probably get away with driving it more without overheating. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg
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If I'm using 91, will there be detonation problems? I'm also doing everything stock. I'd like to tinker on this project for a while. I plan on adding delta ground cams much later. By then I'll need some ECU management...Should I get thicker than .055" to lower the comp? How would I calculate conpression ratio based upon gasket thickness? Cometic said they'd jump a little in price if it was .020" above .040"( my original/incorrect order).
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I called a few different subaru dealers to see if they have any dimensions for a '96 ej25 block... No one seems to be able to find a thickness for the headgasket, or know of those motors having the pistons move out more.. EDIT: Just got a call back from a dealer in my home town. I think this kid was new or something but he actually grabbed one off the shelf to measure for me. .055" thick. I'm assuming I'm safe with that number? Maybe go .056"?
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Thank you for the heads up. I called cometic, and they were thankfully able to hold my order until I get the correct info. If I pull off the heads for the 2.5, would I be accurate if I were to measure the distance that the piston moves outside the block?
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Vehicle: 1996 Legacy L wagon EJ22 (soon to be Frankenmotor) 2nd owner, just passed 200k miles (mostly highway grandma-style driving. Never overheated.) Very regular oil/filter changes; Mobile full synthetic 0w-30 The motor has developed a lifter tick. It is sporadic yet consistently there. Mostly does it while at opperating temp. So since I'll have the motor out to service the valves, I figured I'd drop in a 1996 2.5l block that has 171k on it. My main topic of interest/question.. I ordered the ej25/22 hybrid cometic gasket yesterday (100mm x .040" I hope that's correct...Those are the specs I've read everywhere for this application). This is before I've serviced the heads. I plan on resurfacing the heads via the shop bench-glass-sand paper-wd40 method. Did I just waste +$100 buying the gaskets first? Will I need thicker gaskets because of the loss of material during the resurfacing? I thought I'd be fine because 1.) motor has never overheated, 2.) this is the first time the heads will have been removed, ever. Let me know so I can either relax or sell these and order a new pair... Greg
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I've got a ej22 from a '93 legacy in my Loyale; any problems running those components with a 2.5 block? Many folks talk about ecu management systems...
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What problems would I run into using heads/exhaust/intake/ECU from a 1993 Legacy? Will timing be wrong?
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So then, if I swapped a 1993 ej into my 1992 Loyale, I could swap in a 1996 ej shortblock and not mess with my intake or wiring? The '93 (230K) is burning oil, and I found the '96 on cl near me with 150k on it. . .
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This wasn't oil that came out. It was water/coolant (aqueous) that beaded when it met the residual amount of oil left on the retainers and camshaft.
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Hi all, Current vehicle of question: 1999 Outback Wagon, 2.5l DOHC, 120k, Second owners... This is a friend's car that I'm helping out with, and am hoping to get some good insight. Knew that this would be the place. Story: The car was bought last October, and has had 9000 miles put on it by a very calm and defensive driver... They started noticing the thermostat indicating it getting hot. After watching it, they noticed the coolant was low, and that they needed to add. Then they noticed air being forced into the coolant reservoir. They took it to a few independent subaru shops, and got the same answer: Blown Head Gaskets, and bad Viscous Coupler (for a different post....). So we pulled the motor, and started getting the heads off. It had the old style HG (http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/), and they were both bad My question has to deal with the driver side head in particular... While taking the intake camshaft retainers off, a pressurized aqueous solution squirted out at us from under the retainers. Also, two of the camshaft retainer bolts were heavily corroded. Is this a sign of a cracked head? I plan on submerging the head in a tub of water, and spraying compressed air into the retainer bolt holes. If there are bubbles from anywhere, I'm assuming the head is bad? Should we be concerned with the block internals being compromised? How much should another head cost, and should they just slap a 2.2L in there (I'm in favor...)? The oil that we drained from the pan is not chocolaty/frothy. And there was maybe a gallon of coolant that drained out of the system. Thanks, Greg
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Alright, Thanks!
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They are currently in transit to my home. I'm just trying to make sure that I have all proper items, so I won't have to wait long to mount everything...
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Hi all, I just bought a set of Peugeot Steel wheels. I do not have the lug nuts though. I have been searching everywhere, but cannot find the answer to my question. . . . Do the stock (I have steel rims...) subaru lug nuts work with the STEEL Peugeot wheels? I see plenty of posts telling folks that they do not work with the alloys,....Yes, plenty of options for the alloys since they're being replicated by "4x4brat". Again, what lugnuts are appropriate for the STEEL rims? Many times, i have been sent to this webpage: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/46773-official-alloy-pug-lug-nut-thread/ Someone actually asked about the steelies, but was ignored. HElp??
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Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
suprunner replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi, did you use a wheel adapter with these? Or, did you re-drill these for 6-lug? If you didn't personally, is that what I would need to do? Thanks, Greg -
I'd like to thank all that have been contributing advice! I haven't been able to make an update, since I've been working non-stop for the past couple weeks. I started noticing a thudding noise in the driver side front wheel. A bit of back history: When I first bought the car in 2008, the driver side CV axle was torn. I replaced it. This was probably my first "extensive" vehicle repair that I had ever performed. . . That being said, I didn't correctly torque the castle nut. Drove around with some squealing/whining for a couple of days before I figured out that it hadn't been torqued enough. Well, the bearings must've taken a beating. Las year, I had the Knuckle rebuilt (new bearings pressed in by a shop)... My friend finished the install while I was out for work. While he was installing, he tore the CV boot. Fortunately he purchased a new one and installed. BUT, he didn't torque the castle nut correctly either (I was too stupid, and didn't check is work). So, this culminated in some odd clicking, and wobble noise coming from that wheel. . . The Popping/thudding noises from the firewall area still persisted at this point. I gave a call to Retro Roo. I was under the suspicion that the spacer/cone under the castle nut were trashed. Also, that the hub was going. The very helpful fellow said that that could also be the culprit for the firewall phantom... I believe his theory was referencing a possible hub failure, and the popping was the differential quickly supplying power back/forth to the wheels... Well, I changed the spacer/cone/hub. No more noises from the wheel! BUT, the popping from the firewall area still persists.. . Going back to my theory that something might be floating around in the transmission, I popped the plug and drained it hoping for a large tooth to drop out (Also of note, the last transmission oil change was about 15K miles ago... ).Nothing of the sort. The plug had maybe a 1/16" of shavings on it. The oil looked dark though, and after draining the collection pan, there were sediments in the bottom... (see attached files) Is it time for a transmission swap? 238k on it. What are my options? I have the push-button/On-demand style 4WD, but have always been envious of the dual range Hi/low option... Are there "better" transmissions? Would one from a Legacy work? Or would I forfeit the two wheel drive for AWD? Again, Thank you for your help!
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The symptoms are mainly sporadic, while in gear only. It doesn't have a preference for speed either. Thanks for your help!
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I'm with you. What is there that I can do for transmission investigation? Pull it out, and tear it apart?
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I've tried that... I think I have small bouts of an obsessive disorder... Mainly happens when there are noises in my vehicles. I just gotta get them.
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Would the speedometer cable be ruled out if the noise stops while coasting? I just did another canyon run (I live in boulder, co now), and the popping only happens in gear. But I still get a speed reading on the dash. . . If it dries out tomorrow, I'll be under it inspecting the cv though. The driver side cv is less than 4000 miles old. The passenger side is a bit older. I don't get any of the common knocking noises when I lock out the steering though. Is that always a consistent test? Thanks, Greg
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Valid point. But, I'm pretty impressed with this swap. More so than my 7MGE-into-4Runner swap. The compression numbers for this donor car were just fine. Plus, I changed all the gaskets. A couple were not OEM specific. I could be losing the oil there. Haven't noticed any puddles. That could be the sustained 3K+ rpm's causing a small leak? Or the rings have had it. Plus, the cost that I put into it was pretty minimal to what I'm used to. I'll be moving to Boulder, CO in the next couple days. I know for sure that I can pick up a lower mileage motor and pop it in now for next to nothing. I don't think I'd even need a hoist. The previous owner had hit a deer, and thought the dented fender was too much to deal with. Thanks! Greg
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Alright, I made it home. First I'd like to thank all that are giving advice! Thank you. Here is a "sound clip" of what I'm witnessing. I went from interstate to hilly-highway driving at the end of the trip yesterday. Went from somewhat constant, to very very sporadic. Although, I noticed that it'd feel/sound like there was more force in it while going up a hill in 5th. It (the sound) would lose some energy when I downshifted into 4th. It would stay, then completely vanish. Same thing with coasting in neutral. No noise/thumping. I even tried to coast and rev the motor. Couldn't produce it again. I'll be crawling under it again today. . What are the chances that there is a piece of metal floating around in the tranny/diff? The revolutions of the gears cause the gear oil to swirl it around? Maybe it hits a gear in motion, and gets flung to the inner wall of the transmission? Would I still be feeling that on the firewall though? I was trying to remember back before the EJ swap... I do remember the speedometer lagging while accelerating during interstate speeds. Not a new symptom. some folks mentioned to me that I wouldn't be able to detect bad mounts just by hand. Do I need to try and jack up the transmission? Also of note, I have the "Group N" Impreza motor mounts, and a pitch stopper installed. All three points are secure. Again, Thank you guys! Greg