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suprunner

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Everything posted by suprunner

  1. suprunner
    I can only feel it coming from the firewall/shell area. Thanks for the help!
  2. suprunner
    Hey folks, So I finished my EJ22 swap into my '92 Loyale, and hit the road. Thankfully for me, I'm on my way back... Just have to say, for a motor that had 230k miles, power is great. But I think the rings are bad, being that I'm having to replace oil if I travel at rpm's above 3k... But, my DILEMA! While driving at sustained interstate speeds, there is an intermittent popping/thudding coming from the floor near the gas pedal and the passenger's left foot. You can hear it, and if you put your hand as far up under the dash by the gas pedal, and also by the passenger's left foot.. You can feel the thumping. It feels like something his flapping around and hitting the shell of the car... I have already gotten under it. There's nothing hanging/loose. I started trying to move everything/anything I could get my hands on. Everything feels fine. Nothing wiggly/jiggly. The noise reminds me of the first few corn kernels that start to pop when making your own popcorn. Just kinda sporadic. The vehicle is performing well. No error codes. Fuel economy is in the low 30's right now. No problem accelerating up a hill, All gears work, although I think that the synchronizing gear for third is beginning to ware. I've been trying to trigger/kill the sound. I hear it after sustaining speeds, then if I downshift it'll stay through each gear until I'm about ready to come to a complete stop/put transmission in neutral. I tried taking it out of gear and coasting for a while. Makes it go away for about ten-20 minutes of high speed . BUT, at the same time, I experimented with a coast-to-stop as soon as I heard it next. Well I kept it in neutral, and revved it up and down while coasting. The sound/thump/pop would start and fade. Doesn't happen in City traffic. Also noticed that my speedometer has to catch up sometimes while hitting interstate speeds.. I was wondering if the coolant lines could be popping? I feel like it's in the same area as the heater core as well? Could there be an air bubble in the system? I've had to replace about 3oz of coolant every so often since putting the motor in. No white smoke. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Greg
  3. suprunner
    I found my problem. I for some reason had attached the RG of the EJ temp sender to the YG of the Loyale's gauge cluster. Found that I had that WG not connected to anything. Hooked it up, and bingo. I have a my guage working. Thank you all! I just drove down to Boulder, CO and back to find a place to live. I had a really old Sears X-Cargo luggage box on top. I was consistant at 29mpg. I kept it at 3k/65mph the entire time though... What might I expect if I ditch the luggage box, and go 75mph? Lower fuel economy? Again, Thank you ALL very MUCH for helping me! Greg
  4. suprunner
    Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg
  5. suprunner
    I just did an EJ swap, and I got custom hoses made for my a/c system. From what you are saying, I can just get a can of 134a and throw it in? No vacuum needed? Thanks, Greg
  6. suprunner
    I've gotten the fans to work with the computer. Thanks for the advice. My next hurtle is the gauge. With the signal wire tied into the Loyale's Temp Gauge wire, the gauge reads past the "H". I tried adding the resistor to the wire going to the gauge with it grounding on the vehicle. There was no change. Then I tried just putting it inline to see what would happen/see if the resistor was working correctly. Now it reads like it's cold/no signal. What if I tied the signal and ground wires (coming from the temp sensor) together with the resistor? What would that accomplish? Thanks for the great help. Greg
  7. suprunner
    Thank you for the help. I'll be spicing wires soon. I hope.
  8. suprunner
    Thank you for the confidence boost!
  9. suprunner
    I'd like to be as accurate as possible with the temp gauge... At least as accurate without using an aftermarket temp sender/gauge setup. Can I use the ECU to control the fans, but also have a manual on/off switch? I have a Supra-swapped 4Runner with this setup. It came in handy when the relay failed, but the manual toggle allowed me to keep the fans on until I could swap out the relay. . . So, does that VC line not really need to be hooked up? Does the canister have anything to do with the 4wd? Thanks, Greg
  10. suprunner
    Thanks for the offer. I will keep that in mind. I'm getting very close.
  11. suprunner
    I got a radiator cap from my dealership. Again, Thanks for the help!
  12. suprunner
    Copy.
  13. suprunner
    Hi all, I've been searching this morning on information regarding the charcoal canister. Anything that I've come across dealing with this, only pertains to 2.2-2.5 swaps.. The Legacy donor vehicle had hit a deer, so the passenger fender/radiator/light/charcoal canister were destroyed. I have the EJ in the Loyale now, and I'm wondering how to correctly hook up the Loyale's canister to the EJ motor. Is this possible? I believe I connected the two (available) EJ lines correctly. But there is the third line off of the cannister that I'm not sure where to hook up. It says VC I believe. My next question is about hooking up an EA temp sender unit, and a fan relay together... I will be hooking up two 10" fans to my brand new EA82 single row radiator. It is identical to the old one that I pulled out. There is a port on the side, that I believe I can put in some type of temperature sensor in... On to the subject... I will be using the EA temp sender so that I can keep the gauge working. I also will be using a 30amp relay/circuit/switch system to operate my fans. I do not want to make a sleeve for the sender, then to put it in-line with the upper radiator hose. My idea is to make a T-adapter that can be used in that radiator port. Any reservations? I was thinking of getting a small length (maybe 1/2" long) of threaded pipe (to the size of the hole..) then attaching that to a T of some sort that I can put in the temp sender for the gauge, and one for the fan sensor... That might not make any sense, my brain is firing sparatically from all the coffee... This is similar to what I'll be using for the fan relay... Any thoughts would be great! Thanks, Greg
  14. suprunner
    Thank you for replying. I found the problem. I'm getting very good at removing/replacing motors now.... But to what happened: Once the motor was mated to the bellhousing, some of the extra length of chain (from the engine hoist) fell down the service hole in the block. The chain got behind the flywheel. Every time I turned it clockwise, the chain would slip down. Then when I tried turning anticlockwise, it got lodged. No worries now. Again, thank you! On a non-related note, do any of you guys know how to hook up the charcoal canister (from Loyale) to the new EJ motor? Thanks, Greg
  15. suprunner
    Jim, I would suggest reading through this post : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130950-suspension-improvements-for-subaru-loyale/?hl=%2Baccord+%2Bsprings&do=findComment&comment=1132549 and possibly this one : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129100-2-lift-4runner-gasajusts-moog-springs/?hl=%2Baccord+%2Bsprings&do=findComment&comment=1103295 Good luck! Greg
  16. suprunner
    Hey all, The title is incorrect. It should read "cannont turn Counterclockwise"... I have been working on my swap (1993 EJ22 into 1992 Loyale), and have run into a disheartening problem. I had a hard time getting the motor to line up while putting it in. So, what I did was loosen the clutch pressure plate (PP) bolts. Motor went in with no problems. This is where my stomach kind of dropped.... I put a socket wrench on the crank bolt in order to turn the flywheel so that I could tighten the PP bolts. Well, I made it about 1/4 revolution (counterclock-wise) before it siezed. Tried a little extra pressure, but I'm pretty sure It'll just undo the crank bolt that I've already torqued... I can turn the crank clockwise with ease. There is one point at which it feels like it drags on something slightly, but it'll still turn (clockwise). The only thing significant that I did to the motor, was recondition the heads, and replace gaskets. Do I need to pull the motor back out? Why can I turn it one way, but not the other?? Thanks, Greg
  17. suprunner
    Thank you all for the help. I decided to replace the motor with an EJ22. Oh, and I got a brand new radiator.
  18. suprunner
    Here is a quick visual of what my harness looks like. By appearance, does this look about right? Thanks, Greg
  19. suprunner
    Here is a quick visual of what I have so far.
  20. suprunner
    Hi, I have been trying my best to strip the wiring harness down. This is what I've done so far: I went through a Legacy ECU pinout, and labeled/sepparated every wire that pertained to the ECU. Was this the correct way to go about it? Now I have a large pile of wires that didn't directly go to the ECU, and then the four plugs and their corresponding wires that connect to the ECU. Are these all I will need? Or did I just make myself a mess...? Also, what is the "Select Monitor Signal"? Necessary? Thanks, Greg 1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf
  21. suprunner
    Update: I have been trying my best to strip the wiring harness down. This is what I've done so far: I went through a Legacy ECU pinout, and labeled/sepparated every wire that pertained to the ECU. Was this the correct way to go about it? Now I have a large pile of wires that didn't directly go to the ECU, and then the four plugs and their corresponding wires that connect to the ECU. Are these all I will need? Or did I just make myself a mess...? Thanks, Greg 1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf
  22. suprunner
    I think that that is true with some items. Not all though. For example, in all of the Toyota's that I've played in, wiring is very universal. My 1990 Supra 7MGE swap into 1986 4Runner was a breeze compared to the EJ swap that I'm doing now. Not to mention, almost everything within the Japanese-made Toyotas (Land Cruisers, 4Runners, Old Pickups..) is serviceable/rebuildable. Everything is extremely over-built as well. BUT, if I were to have to choose, my Loyale is a much more enjoyable ride.
  23. suprunner
    I've got just about everything put back together, except a few hoses, and that separator. To be honest, I'm a bit worried to try and crack it open. When I tried taking the screws off the back of the oil pump, I busted two philips-head bits, and trashed one of the screws. I replaced the oil pump phillips-style with some grade-8 allen key style screws. I'm afraid that it'll be the same thing for that separator. It is a cast plate, and not a plastic one. If there's no sign of leakage, should I still re-seal it? I've been using a RTV compound from Toyota. I've used it on a few motors before, and have had great luck. My local Subaru dealership only sells their special goop in large containers. I think that it's the same stuff though. I've decided to not use the timing belt cover. Hopefully all goes well. Also, I've been starting to get a "cold feet" feeling with this swap. Will the power difference be noticeable? I'm not really looking to squeal tires or keep up with any WRX's, but I would like to be able to hit mountain passes and stay out of 3rd gear/ keep the hazard lights off? Is this possible? Thanks for the help!
  24. suprunner
    Where is the Oil Separator gasket? The rear main looked pretty clean. Does Subaru sell a hose kit? When I took everything off, I noticed that the PCV was completely clogged. Should I be worried about anything detrimental that this might have caused? Thanks, Greg
  25. suprunner
    Thanks those that have replied. I ended up removing the Intake Manifold (IM) (which I will probably do in the future), getting two of the bolts off the plate, and then completely rounding off the remaining two. Bought a Dremel, and cut those babies off. The two bottom nuts for the bell housing were my next nightmare. I couldn't get a good angle on them for the life of me. But I kept my cool and got them off. Again, thanks for all the help! Greg
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