suprunner

Thanks for all that have replied. I ended up removing the Intake Manifold (IM) (which I will probably do in the future), getting two of the bolts off the plate, and then completely rounding off the remaining two. Bought a Dremel, and cut those babies off. The two bottom nuts for the bell housing were my next nightmare. I couldn't get a good angle on them for the life of me. But I kept my cool and got them off. Again, thanks for all the help! Greg

I'd like to thank all who have been helpimg me out. This motor pull is much different from the Toyota motors that I'm used to dealing with... I ended up pulling the Intake Manifold, which by the way, every bolt was barely snug... I was able to get two TC bolts off, and then rounded two more. I figured I'd start loosening the bellhousing bolts... Got the two on top, barely moved the lower passenger side, but now it's starting to round. I'm using 6 point wrenches and sockets. Will a dremel be effective to cut the TC/ flex plate bolts? I only need the motor and harness. Don't really care about anything else on the car..

I've done everything necessary to pull the EJ, except that I can't undo the torque converter (TC)/ Flex Plate bolts. I've tried multiple tools and entry options... Even tried going under the intake manifold (removed oil pump). Will I have to take the Intake Manifold Completely off?? Every time that I get a socket/wrench on, then put any torque on it, it just pops off or rounds a point on the head. . Can I remove the engine with the TC/Flex Plate still attached? I don't have any use for the TC, so I'm not worried about destroying it... The motor will be going into a M/T Loyale. Thanks, Greg

I've done everything necessary to pull the EJ, except that I can't undo the torque converter (TC) bolts. I've tried multiple tools and entry options... Even tried going under the intake manifold (removed oil pump). Will I have to take the Intake manifold Completely off?? Every time that I get a socket/wrench on, then put any torque on it, it just pops off. I am afraid that I started stripping one of the heads. . . Can I remove the engine with the TC/Flex Plate still attached?

It is an XT6 clutch kit.. I used a Sachs brand clutch for my Toyota Supra swap. Seems to be holding up alright... Thanks for the help

Shoot. I didn't know that the Exedy clutch was the ticket. I am awaiting on a Sachs kit to be delivered... I normally drive like a grandmother though... Hopefully it won't be a waste of money... Thanks for the help! Greg

What exactly would I be looking for? Also, what about injectors? Thanks for the help, Greg

Thanks for the advice. I ordered all of the necessary items today. Just to be sure, I'm supposed to use a clutch kit from a XT6? I was a bit wary because the dimension given was 8 7/8" I believe. The stock Loyale says 7 7/8"... Still good? Also, what about the injectors? Get new ones? Get them cleaned by a professional? Thanks, Greg

Hey all, I finally found a donor vehicle for the swap. I've been looking for over a year with zero luck. The local yards have had slim pickings for anything with an EJ in it. Where I live, anything imported is few and far between. Found a '93 Legacy L Wagon, with 233k miles. Guy hit a deer going 75mph. Radiator and passenger side fender/bumper got trashed. I believe that there might be a blown HG(s), since the spark plugs were all white. Got the coolant system operating, and have driven it around. Even with the Automatic Tranny, it still has some get-up-and-go in it. As I prepare to tear it out, I would like to have some advice on what maintenance I should do to the motor. I'm already planning on: 1. New Gaskets (heads, oil pan, f/r mains, Cams, valve covers, etc..) 2. New Oil Pump 3. New Water Pump 4. Reconditioning Heads 5. New Timing Belt kit 6. New Plugs/wires Should I open up the block? I have done compression tests, and I'll include the numbers: Cylinder 1: 165, 162, 165 Cylinder 2: 160, 160, 160 Cylinder 3: 165, 165, 165 Cylinder 4: 165, 165, 165 The FSM lists the range between 156 and 185 psi. Numbers look good, but experienced advice will help. I know any motor at that mileage could be ready to blow. My first impulse is to try and do this as quickly and cheaply as possible. Since I have to get a new clutch, and adapter plate, I was thinking that I could "make up" costs on NOT opening the block. Will I just be wasting time by not completely rebuilding? The local machine shop won't do rebuilds on Subaru motors (will only do the heads), so that makes me apprehensive to attempt it on my own. Looking forward to any advice! Thanks, Greg

Hey all, I finally found a donor vehicle for the swap. I've been looking for over a year with zero luck. The local yards have had slim pickings for anything with an EJ in it. Where I live, anything imported is few and far between. Found a '93 Legacy L Wagon, with 233k miles. Guy hit a deer going 75mph. Radiator and passenger side fender/bumper got trashed. I believe that there might be a blown HG(s), since the spark plugs were all white. Got the coolant system operating, and have driven it around. Even with the Automatic Tranny, it still has some get-up-and-go in it. As I prepare to tear it out, I would like to have some advice on what maintenance I should do to the motor. I'm already planning on: 1. New Gaskets (heads, oil pan, f/r mains, Cams, valve covers, etc..) 2. New Oil Pump 3. New Water Pump 4. Reconditioning Heads 5. New Timing Belt kit 6. New Plugs/wires Should I open up the block? I have done compression tests, and I'll include the numbers: Cylinder 1: 165, 162, 165 Cylinder 2: 160, 160, 160 Cylinder 3: 165, 165, 165 Cylinder 4: 165, 165, 165 The FSM lists the range between 156 and 185 psi. Numbers look good, but experienced advice will help. I know any motor at that mileage could be ready to blow. My first impulse is to try and do this as quickly and cheaply as possible. Since I have to get a new clutch, and adapter plate, I was thinking that I could "make up" costs on NOT opening the block. Will I just be wasting time by not completely rebuilding? The local machine shop won't do rebuilds on Subaru motors (will only do the heads), so that makes me apprehensive to attempt it on my own. Looking forward to any advice! Thanks, Greg

Hi all, I own a Toyota 7MGE motor out of a Supra. It's current home is my 1986 4Runner. So I use the forum www.supramania.com as my go-to for Supra-support. Well, there are often times contributors that write some very interesting articles. This was on oil. Take it with a grain of salt, sure. But it seems pretty logical to me. I really didn't know what the oil numbers meant. I'm sure there might be some others out there that want an idea as well, so I figured posting this link could possibly benefit others. http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/index-2.html

Unfortunately, no. Thanks

The airbags did go off. I feel that they should at least store it, because the list of repairs the motor are minimal. A/c, reservoir, radiator... A/c is really just optional, and the two required repairs are relatively easy to do at home. Has 140k miles. Regularly serviced on factory intervals, brand new transmission, and cv axles. . . If they do part it out, what amount should they be expecting to get for the motor? Tranny?

Hi All, My buddy (lives in Moscow, ID for those living nearby...) and his gal-pal got in a deer accident a few days ago. Insurance company said that It's totaled and that they won't cover it... He says that the radiator, A/C unit, Hood, Bumper and Fender are toast. I'm just wondering what might be the best thing for them to do. Someone offered him $250 for the motor. I felt that that was a low-ball offer. What should he expect? It's the 2.5L My thoughts were for him to keep it, and just replace the hood, radiator, and build a bumper for it. He said that it hasn't had a coolant issue either. Would this just be a good time to be proactive about the HG now, while things are needing love? Thanks, Greg

When I first bought my little Loyale four years ago, it ran flawlessly. Temperature gauge stayed just above the "c" on the cluster. Then, about two years ago, she started getting warmer, and warmer. It got to the point that I had to run the heater all of the time. Last summer, I changed the waterpump. Didn't do anything. Then, about 5 months ago, I changed the thermostat AND got a complete flush at a shop. Didn't change anything. I was running without the fan shroud as well. So I put a new one in. Nothing. The electric fan is working just fine as well. The spark plugs don't show evidence of burning coolant, and the only time I lose coolant is when it pushes it out through the over-flow container. I also put a new radiator cap in. For a while, I was running with a bad EGR solenoid. So, I put in a different one. There was a noticeable increase in power, but not a drop in temperature. . . Could I have a bad Head Gasket, and the pressure is pushing coolant out? The mechanic at the shop said that the flush/fill went well. Driving at interstate speeds used to be zero problem for it, but now if I do sustained driving at 65, it gets very close to the red. Thanks Greg

Well, it's a very big decision. We really recommend it. Get a seasonal-type job (Forest Service?), save every penny while working, then do what you want after work is done. Sell the things that you know that you don't need. Travel Light. Depending on how old you are, a year or two of this style of living/traveling won't set your bank account back too far. It's the experience that we're really after. I read a quote from an old man that started a very big business (scheels). He said something like: "Retire while you're young. Then when you're older, think about what you want to do for the rest of your life."

Thank you for the good words. So what, if anything, should I take precaution with when installing these motors? Is A/C possible? Thanks, Greg

Thanks! I'll have to read into it more.

Thank you. I'm curious about the materials aspect of this because... Toyota, Yamaha, Honda, and Subaru are Asian companies. I know that Yamaha made Heads for Toyota, and Honda. That's just one example. In the bicycle industry, there's the same kind of inter-company production/collaboration that goes on between Japan, China, and Taiwan. . . My assumption would be that these manufacturing techniques would be similar, or that there is more intermingling of parts collaborations. I'm assuming that at a minimum, Head bolts would be a Grade-8 (minimum). . . That's a very high quality metal material. Again, I know that they're at a higher grade, but I'm using "8" as an example. Even with that high of quality/tolerance they still stretch/deviate from factory specifications over time...Am I over-thinking this? Did Subaru really make their materials greater? I'm just very "gun-shy" from working on various Toyotas. From those experiences, I'm used to getting to the guts and building it back up fresh in order to feel confident. . . I just don't want to spend the money, and time, then need to get back in there again down the road. . . Thanks, Greg

Thank you for the advice. Currently I have a '92 Loyale. Although it has served me very well, rust has started like wildfire. The city that I live in doesn't plow or put sand on the roads. They just heavily salt them. . . So I've been thinking of finding a GL, or GL-10. I want the dual range T-case... I figure that after purchasing doors and a transmission from a junkyard, I'll be in as much as another wagon. If I can find a clean GL-10, I might not even do the EJ swap. I have a light foot, so I believe that a Turbo would be a viable option for efficient power gain. I mainly want the extra "oomph" for the mountain passes that I frequent in the winter. . . This should be a different thread, but since I have your attention... I've noticed that a lot of the cars on this (awesome) forum are using 15" wheels with lifts. Does the larger diameter plus extra rotational mass kill any gained power (of the EJ), fuel economy, or the drive train components? I was under the assumption that there aren't options to regearing? With Toyota's, there's a large aftermarket selection that makes bigger tires an option without killing the driveline. . . All of the lifts that I've seen seem to be spacer-kits. . . My understanding is that this doesn't necessarily increase suspension travel... Is the stock travel ample enough to do crawling? Thank you, Greg

I'm doing all my research for my future EJ22 swap. There's a U-pull-it near me that I can pull the motor and harness at for $285. Of the EJ22 donors that they have, mileage is between 145k to 220k. Do the block internals need attention in these motors? I've heard that the EA motors are bomb-proof when talking about the block...But I really know nothing about the EJ's. My main question has to deal with the head gaskets. I plan on replacing them no matter what. Is there anybody that makes a Multi-Layer Steel HG for these motors? ARP studs? I've heard of people reusing EJ head bolts, but coming from Toyota experience I'm worried about the "effective stretching" that happens with them. . . I just got done working on my Toyota Supra 7MGE motor, and it now has a MLS HG with ARP studs. Anything worthwhile/ trusted? Thanks, Greg

Thanks!

Thanks for the response! Did you use different springs? Sway-bar?

Thanks for responding! I was considering a two inch lift, but now after drooling over many pictures, I've now settled on a four inch lift. . . But, I'm not sure if I'll need different springs, or where I'll get the steering shaft. I'm unsure on what I'm going to do with the wheels. I'm not certain on an item... Does the larger diameter (plus extra rotational mass...) of the rim/tire combo create a problem for the gears? I was under the assumption that we can't re-gear our old subies to a different reduction...? With Toyota's, there's a large aftermarket following for crawling stuff. If it's not a problem, I'll probably go with re-drilling my hubs for the Toyota 6-lug pattern. I've been following this thread on the conversion. With the EJ22 swap, what did you use for clutch components? As of now, that seems to be the only thing that I'm confused about. . .One of the read-ups pieced together parts from different cars... If I source a motor from a U-pull-it, are the block internals good to leave? I'm assuming that the heads should be cleaned up just for good measure. . . Are the EJ22T's pretty rare? I drive like a grandma, so I feel that a turbo under my hood would last a long time (speaking in reliability terms...).

I'm a young bum looking to do some modifications to an old wagon. I have a rusty (but rugged and LOYAL) 1992 Loyale, but I'm thinking that I want to get a GL. I like the Dual Range t-cases. . . I want to put a EJ22 in, and put a conservative lift on it with some 14" wheels (Know where I can find some?). . . Will be needing lots of help/advice by this Fall (2012). If I can find a GL-10, then I think that I'll just do the lift modification. I'm looking for a good and clean wagon if you know anyone! This past Winter, I took a 1986 Toyota 4Runner through a hellish job. I taught myself how to cut metal and weld with it. . . I did a solid axle swap, re-geared the diffs, put a new transmission in, dropped a 1990 Toyota Supra 7MGE motor in, and did a lot of crying/spending money... Very good, but harsh learning experience for me. Of course, it's still not done. Currently have the valves exposed, and am chasing a valve tick. I'd like to sell that beast, and purchase a mid-90's Toyota Winnebago (take out the 3.slooow and bolt in the 5vzfe 3.4L) and travel North America with the Gal-pal (Jen). This will all have to wait until this Fall because of my job in the summer. I work for the Forest Service, and am gone most of the time. Last August, I had one day off, and I think about three in July, maybe four or five in June. . .