88SubieSnack

Well my ECM is good, everything is good actually! I found my fusible wire link corroded and hanging on by a single wire in the fuse block by the battery. And so I fixed it and BAM! He runs very well. I returned the ECM I bought too. Everything I tested proved the ECM was the culprit. Interestingly enough I measured voltage at both sides of that fusable link with my meter. However it wouldn't illuminate my test light. Anyways Yay! On to other Subaru things.

Update: Checked all power and ground wires to ECM and they're good. Checked multiple power and ground wires to vital sensors and they're good. Lab scoped the crank angle sensor and have a nice square wave, also lab scoped the throttle position sensor and have a nice cascading wave. All this just to confirm everything is in good working order. Still no power output to the injector except with my foot on the throttle, atleast halfway. Had a test light on the injector power supply circuit at the ECM and the light was very dim and fading as I let off the throttle, and brightened up attempting full throttle but it sure was sputtering. I am now convinced the ECM is failing/going bad/has failed. I got a new one coming and we'll see what happens, certain it'll run. Thanks for the feedback!

Sam, I verified no voltage from ECM power supply to injector, pin 43 of F107 ECM connector. Injector has good ground, pin 48 of F107 ECM connector. Pointing back to my noid light not lighting up while cranking. Would another component cause the loss of supply voltage? Dave, fuel pressure is correct. I misread my notes from days past. I have an ECM on the way. Note: I had a bad throttle position sensor prior which I have now replaced and adjusted to spec so I know that cannot contribute to a no start. Thank you!

I'll check that too Sam. Going to diagnose further tonight and I'll send an update. Thanks!

Thanks Dave, I'll verify my fuel pressure readings again, however fuel pressure is plenty. I too might be skeptical about the ECM since it will run with my foot on it, but noid light will not light up... Idle control valve is good, has good continuity and is not shorted. More testing tonight after work.

1988 SPFI Crank no start condition. Has code #14 stating fuel injector issue. The day this happened it ran fine three different times within the hour when moving for our plow guy. Then cranks but doesn't start to go to lunch. Found no injector noid light while cranking which points me to the ECM driver for the injector. Injector and ECM unplugged I have good continuity and 0.04 ohms of resistance. I am condemning the ECM at this time and would like your input on this. I feel certain. Other Notes: Before all this on the same day the engine died as I was turning my A/C on and then it restarted and fired. Not thinking much of it at the time. Then later to go to lunch, crank no start. I think that's a coincidence of me turning the A/C on and it dieing. A/C is a different circuit except for the signal to the ECM. Engine will run good on supplemental fuel if I keep my foot on the throttle, atleast halfway. Fuel injector resistance = <2.0 ohms Direct fuel pressure = 50+ psi Running fuel pressure = 40 psi Timing = OK Has great spark My diagnosis points me to the ECM and I have heard they will fail. Identifix has a case on this for a vehicle with 230,000, I'm at 209,000. What do you think, any suggestions? -Will

Interested if you went this route? I'm in need of new mounts however I'm brainstorming more stiff mount ideas that require minor modifying.

Hey guys, I got my car back. Nothing but a bent up steering column and broken plastic cover. Radio is gone and some other little items. Glad to have it back in one piece.

You guys are awesome, thank you for your concerns. It can always be replaced and there are more valuable possessions in life, but the fact that someone stole is frustrating. What would someone do w/ a stolen vehicle? Turn it into a trail rig, or use it for parts? Anyways, I hope they enjoy it as much as I did.

Thank you, I appreciate it a lot. I never knew these cars were a target.

Stolen from Renton, WA on Thursday Nov. 8, 2018 at 4:18 am 1988 Subaru GL station wagon 4wd d/r 5-speed Beige/tan in color w/ a round white sticker on the rear window that says "MZ" and passenger side hubcaps missing. Also has side decals front to rear and chrome handles/trim, brown interior. Reward: Forgiveness

Stolen from Renton, WA on Thursday Nov. 8, 2018 at 4:18 am 1988 Subaru GL station wagon 4wd d/r 5-speed Beige/tan in color w/ a round white sticker on the rear window that says "MZ" and passenger side hubcaps missing. Also has side decals front to rear and chrome handles/trim, brown interior. Reward: Forgiveness

Octane! I comend you for your persistance in resolving this issue. You sound like you want it done right. I agree. May I share my perspective? I previously had oem suspension and for some reason the passenger front inboard boot kept tearing and the joint became damaged. Axle after axle it would click and clunk and boots tear. So eventually I had replaced all the struts, strut bearings tophats, wheel bearing etc. As well as a pair of new HD axles. Problem solved. No more torn boots and clucking axles. And I'm about 5,000 miles. However I am at stock height but at any altered height of the vehicle, I can only rely on common sense indicating that your axles are no longer within the geometric design and angle of the engineers. So! I assume that you are lifted 2 inches, causing 2 inches of angle increased stress on those axles. Which makes sense right? So I think it is safe to say that you NEED to drop your sub frame the exact height as your lift kit. And to add to that, you should inspect all of your drivetrain mounts, suspension joints, and wheel bearings (like what I had shared earlier and had also replaced) so that you are 100% certain your front end is tight and strong. Idependent front suspension is exactly what it is. Its a bunch of parts bolted together, seperated by bolts and bushings to make one unit possible to support a vehicles weight. So if on part is worn and out of alignment, other parts are compromised. Does this make sense, I hope so. And I hope you get this issue resolved. -Will

DFOYL, count me in for a pair with studs included. Funds set aside awaiting your update. 100% committed. Scott, I will buy from you if I am unable to get them from DFOYL. I am local to you, so $400 is worth all the R&D into the final product. DFOYL and Scott, please keep me updated as I am very interested. Thank you.

Installed a red LED bulb in one of my map lights to simulate a night time driving light for map viewing or night vision. Also looks like what police cars have in the show COPS. Pictures cannot really do justice in how it appears at night time. But I recommend anyone this cool inexpensive modification to give your night time driving a new experience for only one easy payment of $5.78. Order now!! https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/194-r5%20red/