88SubieSnack

Well my ECM is good, everything is good actually! I found my fusible wire link corroded and hanging on by a single wire in the fuse block by the battery. And so I fixed it and BAM! He runs very well. I returned the ECM I bought too. Everything I tested proved the ECM was the culprit. Interestingly enough I measured voltage at both sides of that fusable link with my meter. However it wouldn't illuminate my test light. Anyways Yay! On to other Subaru things.

Update: Checked all power and ground wires to ECM and they're good. Checked multiple power and ground wires to vital sensors and they're good. Lab scoped the crank angle sensor and have a nice square wave, also lab scoped the throttle position sensor and have a nice cascading wave. All this just to confirm everything is in good working order. Still no power output to the injector except with my foot on the throttle, atleast halfway. Had a test light on the injector power supply circuit at the ECM and the light was very dim and fading as I let off the throttle, and brightened up attempting full throttle but it sure was sputtering. I am now convinced the ECM is failing/going bad/has failed. I got a new one coming and we'll see what happens, certain it'll run. Thanks for the feedback!

Sam, I verified no voltage from ECM power supply to injector, pin 43 of F107 ECM connector. Injector has good ground, pin 48 of F107 ECM connector. Pointing back to my noid light not lighting up while cranking. Would another component cause the loss of supply voltage? Dave, fuel pressure is correct. I misread my notes from days past. I have an ECM on the way. Note: I had a bad throttle position sensor prior which I have now replaced and adjusted to spec so I know that cannot contribute to a no start. Thank you!

I'll check that too Sam. Going to diagnose further tonight and I'll send an update. Thanks!

Thanks Dave, I'll verify my fuel pressure readings again, however fuel pressure is plenty. I too might be skeptical about the ECM since it will run with my foot on it, but noid light will not light up... Idle control valve is good, has good continuity and is not shorted. More testing tonight after work.

1988 SPFI Crank no start condition. Has code #14 stating fuel injector issue. The day this happened it ran fine three different times within the hour when moving for our plow guy. Then cranks but doesn't start to go to lunch. Found no injector noid light while cranking which points me to the ECM driver for the injector. Injector and ECM unplugged I have good continuity and 0.04 ohms of resistance. I am condemning the ECM at this time and would like your input on this. I feel certain. Other Notes: Before all this on the same day the engine died as I was turning my A/C on and then it restarted and fired. Not thinking much of it at the time. Then later to go to lunch, crank no start. I think that's a coincidence of me turning the A/C on and it dieing. A/C is a different circuit except for the signal to the ECM. Engine will run good on supplemental fuel if I keep my foot on the throttle, atleast halfway. Fuel injector resistance = <2.0 ohms Direct fuel pressure = 50+ psi Running fuel pressure = 40 psi Timing = OK Has great spark My diagnosis points me to the ECM and I have heard they will fail. Identifix has a case on this for a vehicle with 230,000, I'm at 209,000. What do you think, any suggestions? -Will

Interested if you went this route? I'm in need of new mounts however I'm brainstorming more stiff mount ideas that require minor modifying.

Hey guys, I got my car back. Nothing but a bent up steering column and broken plastic cover. Radio is gone and some other little items. Glad to have it back in one piece.

You guys are awesome, thank you for your concerns. It can always be replaced and there are more valuable possessions in life, but the fact that someone stole is frustrating. What would someone do w/ a stolen vehicle? Turn it into a trail rig, or use it for parts? Anyways, I hope they enjoy it as much as I did.

Thank you, I appreciate it a lot. I never knew these cars were a target.

Stolen from Renton, WA on Thursday Nov. 8, 2018 at 4:18 am 1988 Subaru GL station wagon 4wd d/r 5-speed Beige/tan in color w/ a round white sticker on the rear window that says "MZ" and passenger side hubcaps missing. Also has side decals front to rear and chrome handles/trim, brown interior. Reward: Forgiveness

Stolen from Renton, WA on Thursday Nov. 8, 2018 at 4:18 am 1988 Subaru GL station wagon 4wd d/r 5-speed Beige/tan in color w/ a round white sticker on the rear window that says "MZ" and passenger side hubcaps missing. Also has side decals front to rear and chrome handles/trim, brown interior. Reward: Forgiveness

Octane! I comend you for your persistance in resolving this issue. You sound like you want it done right. I agree. May I share my perspective? I previously had oem suspension and for some reason the passenger front inboard boot kept tearing and the joint became damaged. Axle after axle it would click and clunk and boots tear. So eventually I had replaced all the struts, strut bearings tophats, wheel bearing etc. As well as a pair of new HD axles. Problem solved. No more torn boots and clucking axles. And I'm about 5,000 miles. However I am at stock height but at any altered height of the vehicle, I can only rely on common sense indicating that your axles are no longer within the geometric design and angle of the engineers. So! I assume that you are lifted 2 inches, causing 2 inches of angle increased stress on those axles. Which makes sense right? So I think it is safe to say that you NEED to drop your sub frame the exact height as your lift kit. And to add to that, you should inspect all of your drivetrain mounts, suspension joints, and wheel bearings (like what I had shared earlier and had also replaced) so that you are 100% certain your front end is tight and strong. Idependent front suspension is exactly what it is. Its a bunch of parts bolted together, seperated by bolts and bushings to make one unit possible to support a vehicles weight. So if on part is worn and out of alignment, other parts are compromised. Does this make sense, I hope so. And I hope you get this issue resolved. -Will

DFOYL, count me in for a pair with studs included. Funds set aside awaiting your update. 100% committed. Scott, I will buy from you if I am unable to get them from DFOYL. I am local to you, so $400 is worth all the R&D into the final product. DFOYL and Scott, please keep me updated as I am very interested. Thank you.

Installed a red LED bulb in one of my map lights to simulate a night time driving light for map viewing or night vision. Also looks like what police cars have in the show COPS. Pictures cannot really do justice in how it appears at night time. But I recommend anyone this cool inexpensive modification to give your night time driving a new experience for only one easy payment of $5.78. Order now!! https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/194-r5%20red/

If you haven't already, check out "NICO TURBINE" over at the NASIOC forum. Incredible build thread that I hope would inspire you as well. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2319484

These lights are a flood/fog style display. Not so much a beam. But they do well on roads without street lights, mountain roads, and such. Each light individually can pivot up or down, left or right by hand, for better illumination of the road. Which necessarily can't be done with a solid unit. In my opinion they are more lower profile and can provide more positioning angles and locations. I hope this helps with your decision. I apologize for a late response.

May I ask you something? Is your mechanic familiar with the engine? And was any noise noted prior to the service you had?

Hello everyone. My name is Will and I own a 1988 Subaru GL. My car is named 'GUNTHER'. I bought this car 260 miles away for $650 in early 2012 and immediately fell in love with it. Regardless of the "TURD" of an engine it has, I have managed to keep it chugging along rather well. A few times I have exceeded 400+ miles on a single tank of fuel across Washington state. This vehicle is currently my daily driver and has a list of modifications/repairs performed as well as some that are very well soon to be. Six months after I bought it, I repaired the original engine and resealed it completely and have been driving it ever since. With the addition of other recent repairs. Within the first year of ownership (2012) I replaced: Head gaskets (both heads have bridge stress cracks between the valves. Five years later, no problems so far) Valve cover and grommet seals Both cam cases resealed Full timing belt component kit Engine mounts Transmission mounts Oil pump Water pump Thermostat Intake manifold/Exhaust manifold gaskets Cap, rotor, plugs, wires Battery Front CV axles Thule roof rack Late 2014 I replaced/installed: Front brake rotors Front Calipers/pads Four new tires Alignment Converted to R134a (blows ICE cold) LED lights installed on my Thule roof rack Sorry but there may have been more. It was five years ago, I cannot remember to well. As of recently I have done some pretty serious maintenance/repairs that I am pleased to say that it is where I want it to be as of now. The way this car drives now is very nice and comfortable. So I intend to drive it every day as long as I can. I want to rack up the miles and see how long it will go. It is currently sitting at apx. 183,000 miles and looking better than ever. And a lot less slop in the 'almost' 30 year old drivability. It will be 30 years old next MARCH 2018. My recent repairs to my Subaru: 2016-2017 Front/Rear KYB struts w/ bellows Front KYB strut bearing top hats (Original coil springs) 'All' Beck Arnley: Wheel bearings w/ seals Lower ball joints Re-manufactured steering rack and pinion New OEM dealer steering rack bushings Moog outer tie rods NGK plugs NGK wires New cap, rotor (timing adjustment) New alternator New interstate battery (winter/cold weather spec) New battery cables (improved grounding locations) New HVAC blower motor resistor (A/C 'blows' ICE COLD...still) New Subaru OEM hood latch cable (it snapped in half) New rear lift gate supports (no more vice-grips) Brand new GATES full timing belt component kit (snapped a T-belt in early January 2017) Brand new heavy duty CV axles Brand new tires 4-wheel alignment And to top it all off!!! I sent my car to the local body shop to repair the windshield "troff" , "trough" , "troph". I believe my car has very extremely low rust, so I had the body shop repair what is necessary and then I went to SAFELITE for a new windshield. And I also requested brand new chrome moldings, to replace the original chrome moldings. Looks amazing!! As of now I am very happy with the condition of my Subaru, BUT, however it is not complete... yet! I have a project that is planned out but also being revised at the same time to establish what will be the most cost effective route of my desired final product. And now is the time for me to share with you my soon to be plans for 'GUNTHER'. I plan to modify my Subaru in a way that it can become more of a modern reliable vehicle. And here is my current list of modifications: Complete EJ22 swap mated to my dual range 5-speed transmission (Including proper working A/C, cruise control, etc.) Possibly Either a 5-lug conversion for better braking performance 'or' 6-lug re-drill conversion (depends on how long I can buy 13 inch tire sizes) *THIS IS MORE OF A PRIORITY* Replace all rear brake drum components (if I stick with 4x140 wheel bolt pattern) Source another dual range transmission for me to overhaul/rebuild 'VERY' Light window tint Replace the majority of all the suspension bushings Possible REAR LSD (but honestly I don't even think I need this because I am always in FWD) New stereo component system This vehicle is my daily driver, and I am 'Not' going to lift it at all. Or else I would buy a pickup truck. I am wanting to keep this car functional, practical, and reliable. And that is why I love the drive train and the FWD with the on demand 4WD Hi/Lo Dual Range 5-speed. I hope by now you understand my interest in vehicles and the thought of keeping them original with subtle modifications that make them more practical and reliable. I understand the EJ22 swap is a little more on the advanced side of things, but for me it is a necessary modification that will provide exceptional performance and further support from OEM and aftermarket vendors. A big THANK YOU to the Ultimate Subaru Message Board for all of the information you have gathered from many respected auto mechanics, specialists, DIY'ers, experiment'ers, and discover'ers. You know who you are. And so far I have not actually retrofitted anything to my Subaru, I have only repaired/replaced worn parts, but I would like to say thank you to Numbchux and your extensive write-up of the EJ22 swap, along with all the other wisdom on this message board. That was my first search on this forum when I bought my Subaru and to this day I know it like the back of my hand. I cannot wait to do my swap and tear down my wiring harness. Sorry fella's but I love that sorta thing and I am obsessed with quality. Sorry it is very late so please stay tuned and expect updates and images very soon.

Hello welcome aboard! Search around the forum to see how things run and what it's like. There is a lot of information here that can answer a lot of questions for you. Is your vehicle a station wagon? 'and' Is your carpet damaged? i.e. holes, burns, stains, worn areas, etc.??

KYB-233022 = FR KYB-233023 = FL

What Dave said. I think if your car has even ride height (no sagging or leaning) then the springs are ok. And if they aren't damaged in any other way too. I reused my original springs.

Update: Yesterday I got 4 new tires and an alignment. So far so good. Drives and handles eceptionally well, straight true and a lot more of a comfortable ride since almost every suspension component in the front has been replaced.

How do I edit my topic line? I bought them from RockAuto SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE SB9003HD (SB-9003HD) The axles are bigger as you can see on the shaft. And it does get close to the sub frame. No unusual rubbing noises at full turn lock though, but it is close. Prior to these axles, I had a worn out pair that made noise. That noise went away immediately after I replaced the struts and ball joints. I think because there was a lot of slop in my front end. Then 4 months later I replaced all the other parts you see i.e. steering, bearings, etc. This made me think that when we buy replacement axles, every other suspension component should be inspected and also maybe replaced. However, I have alignment appointment tomorrow and can report back with how it drives. I have only eyeballed my alignment and driven on side roads so far not exceeding 45 mph. I will get back about cruising speeds, cornering, braking, etc. STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RU253 (RU-253) @ROCKAUTO

They came included with the bellows. One per bellow. KYB-SB105 - FRONT KYB-SB108 - REAR