ll77

Sorry I've been neglecting my thread. Getting wrapped up in life, you know how it is. Then install the y pipe, first from the 2 springed bolts (I used a tire to hold the pipe) Then I got a lift from the jack Then we fit him on the hanger like so line up the hole with the thread and bolt it on then I used some hi temp RTV on the new exhaust gaskets then slap it on the head and line everything up secure it (I used my jack to support it up VERY VERY carefully so as to not crush the pipe) and bolt it together (18-22 ft/lbs) connect the o2 sensor plug then the p/s lines go under the intake, around the oil pipe and under the upper radiator hose and bolt it on by the brackets and connect the lines then we do the upper radiator hose, intake hose, clip the charcoal canister in, and put the hose from it into the frame from underneath the car then we do the 4wd vacuum hose next to the passengers shock tower bolt the fan shroud on the radiator in this position, by 3 bolts then you see this, align the fan's more inner holes with the water pump studs (I had a photo with these holes marked on the first post) it was a real pain to attempt tightening the nuts with a 10mm wrench from the top of the car, worked much better from the bottom. then we install the battery, add oil and coolant and we're ready to rumble! As mentioned before, there might be a loud clacking when the engine starts up due to the hydraulic lash adjusters not being pumped up yet, but it goes away. I remember that was pretty horrifying. it would be good to take a timing light to adjust the ignition timing, but I've been a lazy bum about the car lately I made marks to align the distributor before I removed it, so I have a good approximation of proper ignition timing. I'll get around to timing it sooner or later. Sorry again about the delay guys, I'm 99% sure I missed some things, please let me know so I can edit! Thanks guys, I really don't think I could have done this all by myself. She still runs like a dream! No more water out the tail pipe at all! Ultimate Subaru is the best!

Hey sorry guys, I've been trying to catch up with schoolwork lately. So then I fit on my belt, I had to unbolt whatever was on top of the a/c compressor from the 2 bolts to get it on this is an old pic I used for reference (I only have one belt, I don't have a a/c tensioner pulley) I made sure to line it up with the alternator pulley then I took a wrench like MilesFox does and pried against the alternator bracket to put tension on the alternator, "tight but not too tight" tighten the adjusting bolt on the bottom (oops radiator's already on hehe) looking fit Then I hooked on the throttle cable to the throttle body I unhooked the intake boot and hose to have more space unthread the first nut on the cable and put it in the bracket so that there is a nut in front of the bracket and the other behind it. I backed up about 2/3rds on the cable side nut, then tightened the engine side nut down so that the cable was tight on the bracket, for some reason I can't find my pics of this. I'll add them later I pulled the metal piece up against the springs tension and fit the cable into the slot, then aligned the cable with the space in the circular piece, then pushed the metal cylinder in its place redo the intake boot and hose Then I installed the radiator, there are two rubber boots on the bottom that it seats into 2 holes in the frame of the car in, make sure it's seated on the holes before fastening it from the top 2 bolts. Then I plugged in the lower hose to the water pipe Then hook up the thermoswitch connector and fan connector (the blue and white connectors)

Gotcha, that's what I ended up going with. Great news guys, I fed her coolant for some time, and about 20 mins in the noise had already gone away. There's significantly less water coming from the tail pipe. I took my parents to the grocery store on the other side of the island, and she drove beautifully. Success for the time being! Ok, I've been pretty disorganized, so it'll take a while before all the posts come together. Don't be a loser like me and wait until the exhaust is already on to put the engine mount nuts on. since my torque wrench was too big to fit between the nut and the exhaust pipe, I gave them my best approximation of 27-49 ft/lbs Install the anti-pitch bar, the larger side of the bar goes to the body side. torque figures are: body side:27-49 ft/lbs, engine side: 33-40 ft/lbs do the heater hoses Put the fuel line bracket back on the intake manifold (I now realize it would have been better to put it on along with the intake manifold). The vent line goes in the furthest place on the bracket Then hook up the fuel feed, return and vent lines, I had them all labeled Now put spark wires 2 and 4 over the hill holder (sorry about bad pic, I just wanted to show how the wires could be carried up without running into the hill holder) Brake booster vacuum line water pipe grounds as we've established, I put one on each water pipe bolt SPFI harness connectors Distributor connector (it's the lone white connector) plug in the hi tension lead (reused pic, plug it in to the coil) Alternator/ AC bracket bolt positions position the PCV hose over the A/c hose as shown flip the alternator/ a/c assembly onto the lower bracket and put on the top intake manifold bolt. swing the alternator up and tighten the upper alternator bolt Then get the bolt at the side and the 2 bolts that come up from the bottom Then you can swing the alternator back down and temporarily put on the alternator adjusting bolt. To be continued!

I am so relieved! Thanks! Please do let me know, my buddy says he remembers it went on one of the lower alternator bracket bolts, but I just checked and the ring doesn't fit there. And Tractor Pole, are you sure you aren't thinking about the water pipe ground? I already have one ground from the frame there.. Thanks for the help guys!

You are my savior, sir. Thanks:D

Let me put it another way, could this be the water pipe ground? Please people? I don't want to drive it without getting this sorted out! I don't want to sound naggy, but this is killing me! Thanks!

Also, I ended up hooking up the harness ground wire to an alternator bracket bolt, I didnt know where it was supposed to go. Please let me know if that was ok, I know someone knows on here!

OK that makes me feel a little better, I'll try warming up and driving when I get back from class. Thanks for the input.

Bad times guys, bad times. First start up, and immediately there was a loud, deafening clacking noise, also water was already coming out of the tailpipe. Is this a terrible, terrible sign? sigh.. I didn't mention that the machine shop mixed up my hydraulic valve adjusters... could that be it?

Thanks, I didn't know that. Hopefully I won't be needing to do anything else anytime soon though I'll have to put off making my full post on today's work, I have a test tomorrow and I've spent all weekend working on my car! I have 2 questions: 1. Where is this ground off the harness supposed to hook up to? 2. After putting the engine mount nuts on, the FSM reads: "Be sure to tighten front rubber cushion mounting bolt in the innermost elliptical hole in the crossmember" I see an elliptical hole, but I see no bolt. Is it important? Expect the finishing touches posted tomorrow!:cool:

I only had one dowel pin, I don't know if I mentioned I bought this car from a used car dealer, who got an engine from a junkyard to put in the car because the original one had overheated. But I think there are supposed to be two, each found on either the flywheel housing or transmission After a day of angry shaking and jerking, I finally got her on I noticed that bumping the breaker on the crank pulley, as opposed to turning it, helped them slide together more quickly There's not as much space in the bay anymore! :

My, my, that main shaft alignment is a royal pain in the rump roast, isn't it. I woke up early this morning, and I've been struggling with it all day!!! I've jerked the crank millions of times, but it refuses to close up! I guess it's just one of those things we have to fight through... what a b--

Sorry guys, I lost my SD card adapter for my pictures, finally found it today. Here it is, the lip is very small compared to the old one, and much less jagged. I got the pump on today unbolt it from the 5 bolts around, give it a tap with a rubber mallet to break the bond, coolant might spill. undo the hose from the top clamp and remove the pump clean the mating surface on the block with brake cleaner and a razor blade don't be a loser like me and re use the old coolant hose. It's a 1/2" diameter, I bought 5/8 because it really looked like 5/8! But 5/8 is too big and kinks. I'm too anxious to get this over with, and the old hose wasn't leaking before, so I said f-- it. I hooked up the hose to the new pump, then fit the other end to the coolant pipe and fit the paper gasket in between the pump and the block. There was no torque spec to be found in the FSM, and none of my resources had it, so it must be pretty negligible, just "tight enough?" I just cranked the bolts on in a star pattern with a 3/8 drive ratchet to "1-finger strength," which is like 7-9 ft/lbs. Good enough? I'll find out soon enough KABLOOOSH water pipe back on pulley and alternator bracket back on other stuff back on chock the flywheel (pretty neat this time) remove crank pulley, apply thread locker, and I gave the sucker 75 ft/lbs I found some more of what looks like RTV (grey stuff) around the place behind the splined portion of the shaft here. I probably won't do anything about it, but is that normal?

hehehe you got me. I can't wait either, hopefully by the end of this week..? My water pump came in today! Got it for 25 bucks shipped on ebay! The gasket it came with looks questionable in quality.. but the instructions say to install it without fluid packing, so I think I'll stick to that. and I've wound up with quite a few extra gaskets and o rings in my set... my guess is that they are mostly for the carbureted models, and not for my SPFI. Oh well! Looking forward to throwing the pump on tomorrow!

I had new tensioners, so I unbolted them and took them off the springs Driver's Passenger's Old vs New The old ones made a considerable amount of noise and spun very freely. The new ones are much quieter and tighter. I installed them in their slackened positions, then I began to fit the driver's side belt on (the longer one) I slipped it under the tensioner, then over the crank pulley to the crank sprocket, then under the oil pump pulley, then under the idler pulley, then fit it onto the cam sprocket from underneath. Belt tension is important underneath the cam pulley for this belt. I didn't have a spanner, and I just put firm counterclockwise pressure with my hand and pushed the tensioner down a bit while my dad tightened the tensioner bolts (14 ft/lbs). Tighten the pivoting bolt on the tensioner last. This part is important: crank the crank pulley clockwise a full 360 degrees, so that the driver's cam pulley is pointing down like this: the center timing mark should be aligned with the flywheel housing pointer, as it was before The short belt is easy, just slip it over the crank sprocket and fit it to the top of the cam pulley, keeping tension on the top portion of the belt. I got the pops to tighten like before, I applied counterclockwise pressure and pushed up on the tensioner. right now we look like this: driver's passengers: flywheel I torqued down my cam pulley bolts (7 ft/lbs) and oil pump pulley nut (12 ft/lbs) at this point Then I put my valve covers back on. looking more like an engine now! Then the distributor went on. Had to fiddle with this for a while. Crank the crank pulley clockwise until the pointer of the flywheel housing is aligned with "0." here's the FSM: Align the indentation with the bump on the distributor Then it goes right in. I didn't just slam it in there like a barbarian though, it turns when it meets with the cam gear, so it kept sliding back. I had the marks perfectly aligned, and this is what I got the first time. Not what we want! This is what we want The rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug position when it is all the way in. I slid it in a bit off clockwise so that it would fall into the right position, if that makes sense. Fiddling will get you there sooner or later. Then put the mounting bolts back in, and the timing is all done for now. I might take my timing light to it when it's all together again.