noahkort

Bypassing the heater unit for the time being. ('84 ea81) Should I connect the inlet hose and the outlet hose, or just plug them both up? thanks

I'm working on getting ready to try my hands on the weber swap. I've been doing my homework but was hoping someone can look over my plan and make sure I'm getting the right things. I have a 1984 GL 1800 EA81. It had the carter/weber stock carb and intake. I am looking for an intake from a hitachi EA81 and am ready to buy one. I am planning to buy the Redline kit with the 32/36 DGEV carb. I have considered doing SPFI and also considered buying the carb swap components separately to save a few bucks. Since this is the largest mechanical undertaking I've planned to date, I intend to stick with the redline carb swap kit. I've been reading lots of weber swap posts on this forum but don't think I understand it all yet but I have been encourage by lots of posters that a novice can do it. As my wife says "Just point your skis downhill." I guess my main concern is: DGEV vs DGV Is one easier than the other? Is one correct and the other incorrect? Pros/Cons of one vs the other? Thanks for taking the time to read.

guys thanks for all the info, i'm starting to understand the different views on the EGR valve. My question is: Can I drive around without the egr solenoid control, just in the interm, while I work out replacing it. if so: should I plug the line or leave it open? I am mostly cruising where I live. Hell I'll just run the line into the cab of the car and open and close it manually if it means I can drive my car. So is it open or closed when cruising.

Where can I find one of these? Can I drive the car without it in the interm, I busted it trying to take the hose off of the nipple. Which on mine is plastic, despite it appearing metal in your picture. If I do plan to drive it without the control valve do I need to plug up the entire EGR? (84 gl 1800, hatchback) \ Thanks!

Vermont, USA we have 2 GLs, one hatchback and one wagon. $35 each annually for state inspection, (this isn't just emisions, they check lights, signals, wipers, glass mirrors etc.) $550 annually for full coverage insurance $130 annually to register both cars. taxes are one time at time of purchase, $30 each car. gas is $3.50-$3.80 a gallon, getting 27 MPG on the wagon and 30 on the hatchback MPG, we drive 10-20 miles a day if just going to and from work.

http://www.atcentre.ru/price.html?catn=925590000&proiz=SUBARU&marko=WRENCH,BRK%20PISTON&price=5100.00%20%D1%80%D1%83%D0%B1.&metod=cardtov 5100.00 somethings for the original tool.

Aye that has got to be exactly how it happened, we were stumped. I did have an issue on an 1800 mile round trip with some overheating. Tinkered with it between exits and was running hot a lot that trip, I'd repair one hose and blow another. I think i pulled over and fixed the car 3 or 4 times. I had a pro look at it, we had decided to remove them and have them machined but when looked under it he discovered it was only warped on the Y pipe side and still were sealed nicely to the exhaust manifold. He was able to grind them down on the car and saved me the headache of carting the part around the state. Thanks again for everyone's input.

Been fliping through images of 86 and 87 GL wagons. Bodies are looking pretty simliar. Anyone know how swappable body parts are from say an 86 GL-10 to an 87 GL? thanks and be well.

Has anyone compiled a walk through for the swap? I've taken the stock weber/carter off and on it before but i didn't know which hose was what really, i just made sure to put them all back where they were. What would I have to do to be able to do the swap? just become more familiar with carbs in general to get all the hoses right? What other parts would one need, conversion plate of some sort I assume? Right now when I do a job, unless i'm redoing my first attempt, it's the first time i've done it and I just go by the book. So am I over my head, for now, to do this to my ea81?

The spacers between the Y pipe and engine (which i believe are part of the ASV system) have warped prevented a good seal. I've read much about disabling the ASV system if the engine has a weber carb which it does. I do not know if it was converted or if it was factory. From what i understand some later 83s and early 84s had a carter/weber installed in the factory. So i'm having them removed and intend to have them milled flat again, at a machine shop. can't find new ones anywhere. I've read about disabling the ASV system with a quarter. My questions are: Can I disable the ASV system if the weber carb was a factory install or is that something you guys just do if you are doing the conversion yourself? If I disable the ASV system can i leave those spacers out entirely and connect the Y pipe directly to the engine? Regardless, should I disable the ASV regardless as a preemptive strike against it blowing up? Thanks for taking the time to read, be well.

my manual shows a spacer and two seals, but when i took it out no spacer and no evidence of seals. So I'm one shipment away from putting this one back on the road... again. Thanks for your time!

any tips on finding the subaru thermastat, i feel like i change mine annually.

thanks for your input. The only thing stopping me from getting a new booster right now it is i haven't been able to find new seals. I can get a new booster on Rockauto.com for about 100. I spent 1000 on the tranny replacement between parts and labor so 100 to get the car back on the road is no biggie, my only concern is the seals, which I haven't found yet.

Almost made it across. Hit ice and was almost 180, so i hit the e brake and finished the turn. Went down backwards only about 40 feet off the road at 2am. Got winched out in the morning around 11am and drove it home 1/2 mile home. Always happens close to home right? Spent $22 dollars to reseat the tire and replace a backup mirror on the driver side, drove it to work at 3pm.

I think i might just JB weld the master cylinder onto the booster, then when the booster (or cylinder) needs to be replaced, I'll replace both. Am I crazy? I could drill out the stud, but after breaking stuff once I'm leary. To drill it out, I'd have to take out the booster, or remove tons of stuff from the car, or get a really small drill. If I remove the booster and/or get a new one to install, according to my book I need 2 seals, one on either side of the spacer. I have not been able to find these seals on rock auto or the such any tips, reckon I could make them, but what am I sealing? Vacuum I assume?