turbosubarubrat

You need to wire up a fan harness from scratch with a relay if you didn't keep the ej setup. The ecu controlled fan control is far more reliable than the thermo switch. I wired the fan control wire off the ecu to a toggle switch (just in case of high water or snow) then to the relay.

The stock lines work fine for a ej22E swap it would be a different story if you swapped in a ej257 with a fat turbo and huge injectors. I've ran my ej22 swap for a couple years with no problems without a surge tank.

It does you just have to make a bracket for it to mount correctly.

A toyota w series transmission with a adapter plate would hold up to the turbo ej power from what i've read. I would swap in a r180 if i was going to do it. The rear cv's are going to grenade or the stub on the control arm is going to break at some point.

Everything from craftsman is pretty much made in china and taiwain anymore.

I haven't set all the details in stone yet because of the machine work that is needed. I'm going to go with a set of JE pistons. I have the case halves prepped to go to bearing services to be bored over, line bored, and i'm thinking about getting the thrust bearings relocated.

Your going to need to get a different gas tank or figure out how your going to hook up a fuel return line to your current set up. These early ones didn't come with them and your going to need one for the ej swap. Your going to need a fuel injected pump off a loyale if your going for used parts. You could move the carb pump to the rear as a lift pump with a surge tank to feed the high pressure pump in the engine bay or just use a high pressure pump in the rear.

I have this s-k 3/8 ratchet it's a 3/8 in a 1/4 body haven't had any problems with it since it never sees any torque that would break it https://sktools.com/shop/45173-4-5-3-8-drive-slim-ratchet.html. My families nursery has had the same one for 40 years. I've sent a couple ratchets to s-k in the mail to get rebuilt and they just send you a new one. If your working in a tight space these gearless ratchets work great especially if a regular ratchet has to much friction to turn a nut off because it's loose but you can't get your fingers on it https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-2-Piece-Gearless-Ratchet/dp/B0009IQ2BE

What are you putting that in? I'm going the opposite direction stroking a ej22T closed deck block with a 2.5 crank and rods. I'm going to use a set of ej22E heads with delta cams with roller rockers. I have a TD04 to put on it which should be plenty for my 82 glf. I have a ej22T harness like you but i'm going with a early jdm wrx ecu with a ESL daughter board to tune it.

If you have a good snap on dealer they will replace the whole ratchet with a new if they can't source a rebuild kit.

https://store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174-Technology-chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Dual-80-Technology-Standard-Bent-Handle-Flex-Head-Ratchet-P889615.aspx It's worth the money if you use it all the time. The only ratchets I buy anymore are the dual 80 series from snap on. I haven't had one break yet even after daily use. I would also recommend buying one of their 1/4 extra long ratchets there a foot long they work great on valve covers and tight spaces. I use s-k ratchets quite a bit at home and would recommend this one https://sktools.com/shop/3770-10-8-3-8-drive-flex-ratchet.html can be found for about $60 on amazon. They are great ratchets just not as compact as the snap on ones.

I've had 6 new windshields with gaskets put in the past couple years for around $220 installed. Find a different glass company with better connections.

You can mount a ej backing plate on the back with some modification but you need xt6 rear hubs. First off I already know the difference between a xt and a xt6. Already have the support tube made and all the parts to put the suspension together 10 different ways. All the stuff your giving me spoob about can be corrected if you know how to weld, machine, and fabricate. If axles prove to be a issue I will rwd swap it using a brz or Supra transmission with a Dana 44. But I doubt it. The axles I've measured compressed have been the same between ea82 and 1st gen ej's. The differences people could be having is aftermarket axles vs factory. I'll add to the 5 lug swap write up if I ever get the car done. I'm rebuilding a closed deck ej22t for mine and am shooting for 250hp with ECL tuning.

Impreza axles will fit a ea82 cross member otherwise there would be nobody with a 5 lugged swapped 3rd gen. He's going to need a 5 lug swap in order to have safe braking with a turbo ej engine which is why i said it. The factory ea brakes even with the disks on the back are just asking for trouble. With the ej knuckles you can swap in a new oem 4 pot brake kit that can be found for around $500. Unless he wants to make custom axles you have to widen the track on a ea81 car. It's about 3 inches wider with the setup so 1.5" per side which could be corrected with different offset wheels. I'm swapping out the rear torsion bar for a custom support tube to run rear struts on my 82 glf. This lets you use ea82t or xt6 rear trailing arms to have a rear sway bar and widen the rear track the same as the front. I'm going to run coil overs up front since they're about the only thing that fits in the strut tower and they help with camber adjustment. I've messed around with the ea81 axles and it took about 20 axles to get a set of shafts to put ej outer joints on. Any way he goes he needs to mod a ea cross member for the up pipe to fit even if it is a ea turbo cross member.