turbosubarubrat
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Posts posted by turbosubarubrat
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It's the same as a 5 speed d/r swap. Besides you need all the electrical/vacuum parts to operate the 4wd or you can operate it with a cable. You need a ea82 flywheel and clutch assembly (or machine the ea81 flywheel to ea82 specs), shifter with linkage, and the 2 piece drive line or get the brat one lengthened. Cross member is your choice there is a bunch of ways of doing it.
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Dang threadjack. Can anybody tell me which axles I need to order? Thanks
From what i've read 93 awd impreza axles should work in the front with the ej hubs assuming that your ej trans has 25 spline stubs. If it has 23 go with 93 fwd impreza axles.
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I take it your talking about the radius rod bracket. Many people don't even bother bracing them and haven't had any problems. If you do it's because you where doing something you shouldn't have like jumping where you actually rip out your unibody mounting points or you have terminal rust. All the heavily wheeled rigs i have seen haven't even bent a lift block unless they went with thin tubing. They bend the unibody if anything. I have it linked with 1x1 square tubing wish i had framed it together with 2x2 tubing but it's better than what most have done. If you don't believe me start looking at other peoples lifted rigs. Haven't had any problems with the lift in the 8 months i've been driving with it on and off road. I routinely check my lift blocks about every month to make sure nothing shifted and that all the bolts are still tight (even though nothing has moved since the first road test and retighten). It won't be setup like this forever anyways since most likely getting sas'd.
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I would just put in another factory one since i have 5 or in your case put in one of these in the middle of the heater core inlet line. You could either do that in the engine bay or the cab then delete the factory one with 5/8" heater hose.
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I think the one you need is off a 1st gen legacy maybe Patrick at ADF would know. I would definitely get rid of the rag joint while it's apart.
Add a brace to support the lower shaft so it rotates smoothly, otherwise the upper shaft rotates until the lower u joint binds up, then rotation is transferred to the steering rack.
The steeper the angle on the U joints the more exaggerated the effect is.My steering in my 8" lifted ea81 with dual U joints would bind up every 1/2 turn of the wheel and would require significantly more force to turn.after the U joint popped out of binding it would turn for a another 1/2 turn then bind up again....My other shaft that only had 1 u joint wouldn't bind up nearly as bad, but it tore the hell out of the rubber puck on the steering in short order.
Or you could clearance them out with a die grinder like i did on my 6" lift. Mine turn turns freely with no binding.
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Looks like it broke at the weld so either get it rewelded by some one else or patch it with something yourself. I've seen people use soup cans and hose clamps to fix stuff like this. You could get a small section of exhaust pipe slightly bigger than yours to slip on and use exhaust clamps (it would be about the same cost to get it rewelded though).
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I have one out of a 83 turbo wagon it has 197 thousand on it. Guy i bought the car from said he parked it over a year ago because the turbo was bad. Car was used on their property one plate says 2001 the other says 2004. I can't confirm condition since i didn't drive it but the fluid was clean and looked like atf when i drained it. $50 for the trans and you help figure out shipping.
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I just used a new ea81 throttle cable $6 from Oriley's and modded the ej throttle cable bracket.
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If you don't have the flywheel shroud on the bottom or if you can take it off/bend it you could probably flush the pieces out with a garden hose. You might have to undone the engine/transmission mounts and lift it up a little. From the pics it looks like the flywheel already grounded up some of the aluminum.
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A guy i met would haul a ton of wet fire wood in the bed after getting off work from a mill. By that i mean 2000 pounds. But that's not all behind the brat is a trailer with another ton of wood. He said he does it all the time and drives home in 4wd.
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I have a ea82 crossmember and power steering rack mounted up to my hatchback with a 6". I know people have used flat bar to mount crossmembers in before. Have you thought about using a whole ej suspension? I've seen a couple ea71 and ea81 cars done that way.
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I found him on facebook since i couldn't find a way to contact him through his website. Bill Hincher in Toledo Ohio. He still makes them an they're $475 plus shipping.
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For portland vehicles 75 and newer have to be deq'd unless except like heavy diesels.
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Yes it will be fine if you pull it and drive without that's how people with welded diffs drive around. It comes out with 2 roll pins. If the cv axle is clunking or has torn boots i would just wait to replace it unless its binding up and popping.
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May wanna open up at least one on each side of the tunnel... If you get water in there it's got nowhere to go
I have 10 rubber plugs in my floor pan i just welded up the bigger holes. I have one on each side unplugged right now that drain out through the unibody rails so you don't have water spraying in while driving(also have the floor mats in that cover up the holes anyway).
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That top pic is the egr. Pvc looks like this. Have no idea what the middle thing is supposed to be called but i know it is apart of the exhaust recirculation system / emissions stuff that i always delete.
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My hatch is lifted 9" running with no sway bars without any problems(6" body and 3" from tires, eventually getting 31's so that will go up to 10"). It rides better than most lifted rigs with the new shocks and struts with v6 tempo springs. My handling increased majorly when i put in the front struts and tempo springs. If you even get it going on 3 wheels your probably going to flip it so slow down on corners or take them more gradual it's obviously not a wrx(or a sports car). If you have to get a rear sway bar one off a ea82t would work.
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The rigs i have done it to have ran very well and have passed deq with a little tuning(they get in the mid 20's for mpg). My hatch has 2.2 in it now so i doubled my hp and put the weber on my dads hatch. My dads has 241 thousand miles on it and passed deq once the cat got heated up. I was kind of surprised since it has worn valve seals that makes it roll coal when you start it up cold.
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It's been done before. I know Loyale 2.7 turbo put a front clip from a xt6 on one. I've seen others but it's a tight fit.
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Yes on both the egr and pvc. I ideally you would get a egr with 1 port for a weber swap, but if you get a 2 port cap off the big port. Your pvc and egr are probably working fine but it would still be a good idea to take them off and clean them.
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Any chance your cap was wet on the inside and dried out?
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It's getting to much fuel. Do you have a return line hooked up? The stock carb fitting threads right into it depending on the weber. You want the return line to be hooked up so it pushes fuel up instead off draining all the fuel down so you run out of flow after 25mph. Not having a return can cause fuel to go past the needle valve making it splill out the bowl which sounds like your problem or your regulator is bad. I bought a mr. gasket fuel regulator off ebay and right out of the package it didn't work. It didn't regulate flow and leaked from everywhere i couldn't return it since it had been a couple months since i bought.
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Have you tried running it on the high way at high rpms (like 5k) so the cat heats up and clears out for about 15-20 minutes?
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Thank you.
Skishop, neither will my subie after I Weberize it. (I think...) haha.
If your getting a weber delete all the emissions crap off. Only stuff i leave on mine is the egr and the cat so it passes deq but since your in washington you can delete those too.
Need EA81T distributor wiring diagrams...
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by turbosubarubrat
One of my ea82t wagons didn't come with a distributor or the plug in wiring for it. I bought a distributor from a board member on here then went to pick n pull and got a harness of a ea82t xt6. I had to modify the harness a little bit but it was plug in. I'll try to get some pics up later of it or take some of the factory manual. I have a ea81t currently until a friend picks it up and could send you a whole harness off a ea81t wagon with analogue cluster (cluster not included) or just the distributor harness.
Edit looked at pics of the ea82t harness and it didn't look helpful.