turbosubarubrat

Get your seats reupholstered i'm sure you could find a close color/pattern to match and they refoam the seats to your liking. A 82 brat i bought and fixed up had a set that looked almost new.

Could you check on the window seals on a 2 door hard top? It attaches to the rear side windows and seals the door glass. Maybe i will see you around Sandy sometime i drive a white lifted 2 door hatchback.

You have a 3.9 d/r unless somebody split the case and swapped stubs on a 3.7 d/r. Check your gears in the rear diff to make sure it wasn't converted over to a 3.9 lsd. I have a 3.7 d/r out of a 85 gl-10/rx that would i sell or trade if it is a 3.9 d/r.

The whole transmission has to be pulled and split open. If you get another used transmission that you don't know the history behind you could have the same problem or even gears out.

My guess is the heater core or the cables for the controls aren't adjusted right. I went through all the b.s on my hatch back trying to get the heater to work. Adjusted all the cables and flushed the heater core for 20 minutes going in the opposite direction of flow for most the time. Ended up pulling my dash and putting a heater core in now it's nice and toasty for winter. I haven't had a problem with after market thermostats. Just check where it opens and closes at in boiling water. My ej'd hatchback ran at the same temp with a aftermarket as it does with factory one i bought.

Put it in the freezer for awhile then try putting it in. If that doesn't work, once it's far enough through (if caliper isn't already off take it off) thread the castle nut on then pry the axle through using a piece of wood where needed.

I was going to say i used a 2 jaw puller and impacted it off. The last one i had that did that took about 5 minutes to adjust the puller, get it lined up, and get the bearing off.

My 86 obd1 ej22 swapped hatchback ran great all summer then towards the end of September it started to run on 3 cylinders at idle with codes 24(iac) and 33(vss). It's a 90 ej22 with all the electric components from the legacy i parted out including the C8 flasher bulb ecm, harness, ect. At first i tried to swap the iac out with a know good one after cleaning it really good. Same problem. Swapped out the ecm with one from a 91 that doesn't have a flasher bulb and both codes when away. Ran fine besides it would randomly run rough and get a check engine light(wired to ecs light) when slowing down so you would have to stop let the idle almost kill it then it would go back up to about 750. So i wired up the vss and my current problem i have right now is that after the engine is warmed up for a little bit it starts to idle up and down from almost dieing to idle with no codes. I don't have the neutral switch wired up and i've heard about people adding a clutch switch. Would any of theses help or does any have any ideas. If i plug the 90 ecm back in it still has the code 24(iac).

I would have to make sure i stall have have all those doors. $50 for all the doors with handles if i have them all.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126559-retro-gl-10-turbo-build/

Just get another oil pan there not hard to find and are easy to take off. If not i would go the bolt route or find somebody to weld it.

That ecm is for the transmission in the impreza.

My experience is you never stop buying or making tools.

Rerouted my exhaust about a month ago. Also took off the front flares and put a set of factory ones on Putting in a new heater core and bed lining the inside. I'm going to weld the holes shut. New heater core in and cleaned up

I know my friend got them last month from Oreillys for a 87 carb'd ea82.

If the loyale is a 5 speed 4wd i would swap that in and take all the spfi parts off the ea82. Then get a ea81 short block and swap on the spfi. The wheels would swap over. Rear brakes maybe. Front brakes would work with the right mix of ea82 and ea81 parts and extended radius rods.

Third eye's only came on 2nd gens. It can be fitted on anything with a little fabrication.

That will be totaled by the insurance company for sure. The whole uni-body is twisted leaving it unrepairable. You could always find another wagon and swap the drive train into that one.

Or swap the alt from the other brat if your not driving it.

Pactrick at ADF. He lives pretty close to where I live out in Sandy so roughly your an hour away. I have a 4" lift for my brat and have a 6" for my hatch. Super easy to lift these. Steering linkage is easy all you have to do is find a double jointed linkage off another subaru(delete the rag joint) or fabricate one so it works. My hatch has a ea82 power steering front end/suspension and the linkage off a manual rack ea82 was a perfect fit after i clearance the joint for more movement with a bur. Brake lines are easy too. Just make a extensions using a double flare. I made 6" extensions for the front and converted the back to disks so no need to extend because of the extra line add.

Or just use the stock bracket and modify it if you have to. I did a swap on a ea82 where the adapter was welded to the intake slanted forward a little bit (better angle for steep up hill off roading). The stock bracket lined up perfectly but the weber bracket wouldn't bend back far enough to open the secondary which is what your problem is. You could cut the bracket and weld in another section if you want.

On my hatchback i have a 30" cherry bomb glass pack for my muffler it but with a ej22. It is fairly quite at idle with a slight rumble but when you get on it it's not super loud. On a ea81t wagon i put on a cherry bomb glass pack in the center and a cheap muffler after it. It had the boxer rumble all the time and wasn't a loud car. On another hatchback i put on a weber carb and a cheap muffler which really brought out the boxer rumble.

Heat hoses, the small coolant lines on the intake to the block, or intake gaskets.

Use a gasket or rtv.

I've had some of these heaters cook you out and others just suck. Some have more air output than others from the resistors being old i guess. Just got the heater in my hatchback working and a new windshield. Eventually i'm probably going to put another one in another heater core. Your problems is your blower motor resistors.