turbosubarubrat

Wouldn't say my 86 hatch is the ultimate off roader, but it has -ob1 ej22 swap -6" lift -6 lug conversions -1 1/2" rear wheel spacers -ea82 front end.(struts, springs, top hats, knuckles, hubs, axles, brakes, cross member, power steering rack, control arms) -5 d/r -3.9 lsd rear diff with breather into the cab -rear disks -lengthened 1 piece drive line -mustache bar is 2 stock ones welded together -custom rear bumper with cut down semi mud flaps -factory front brush guard which will have a 5k winch -custom roof basket with kc's -high rise center console with modified power window insert for 5 toggle switches -sound deadening chiseled out on the inside and bed liner in it's place plus some

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ5/KF47501/01351.oap?year=1983&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267703&ck=Search_clutch+set_1267703_4861&keyword=clutch+set http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-MODEL-15001-OEM-CLUTCH-KIT-1981-1987-1-8L-SUBARU-BRAT-/171982254736?hash=item280af0f290:g:TVcAAOSwaNBUchxi&vxp=mtr

Not really rare but you don't see a lot of the DL's any more. The dl's were the lower model which only came with the push button 4wd while the gl's came with dual range 4wd.

Still have to strip the harness the same way to go fuel injected. Easiest way is to run the engine with the ea81 carb manifold on it.

Also the pdf in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152017-ea81-spfi-pdf/

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121769-1984-gl-wagon-fwd-build/page-16

My front axles on my hatch back thud/vibrate so hard when i go 55mph my whole dash vibrates and the thudding is almost louder than my radio. I really need to get them warrantied and if the new ones don't work my buddy at Oriley's will make sure the store finds me a good set even from another supplier.

search subaru 5 speed d/r swap

If your oil pan gasket leaks i would do that and replace it with rtv. You might also want to reseal your oil pump. Good time to replace the coolant hoses especially the small ones on the intake if they haven't been done before. Along with flushing the coolant system. I've used the complete felpro kits and never have had a problem. Probably best to just take your heads in and have the resurface them, valves ground if needed, and have them replace your valve seals which comes in the felpro kit. I had both of my heads on a ea81t rebuilt for $80 and $40 to have them pressure tested (to make sure they were good before i got them rebuilt).

That would be easy to weld back up or buy a new $40 shipped cat off ebay.

If you end up needing another radiator and a new lower hose i have them $25. http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5259162795.html

Depends on how your rig is setup. My lifted hatch has 235/75/15's with a ej22 and is faster than stock. Eventually i'm going to solid axles on a brat or a hatch then run some 33's or 35's.

I had the windshield replaced on it but it's probably out of warranty now. I sold it to who you bought it from 2 years ago so i don't know if she gave you the folder with all the receipts i gave her. Car was Purchased new in Gladstone by a little old lady from Oregon City. She died and the car sat in the garage for a couple years then a guy down the street bought it and got it running, but soon after that the digi dash shorted and caught on fire. He took stuff apart and left it for a couple years parked in a field. Tags were expired in 04 when i got it in 2013. I ended up getting it and fixing it up since i had my almost identical ea81t wagon to compare it too. Let me know if you need some parts for it i might had it or know somebody that does.

Try looking in Oregon and Washington. Wheel bearing http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=wheel+bearings+%26+seals&year=1983&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267703. Axle http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Left-Rear-Remfd/_/R-NMD953157_0173002336

Pics from when i had it. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.348735645261580.1073741834.100003754435547&type=3 and pics of the other one i had https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.215710661897413.55235.100003754435547&type=3

The longer it is ran the worse the bubbles will get if it has a blown head gasket. I had a bad block in my ej'd hatch that was putting so much exhaust gasses into the coolant it was boiling in the upper radiator hose and shooting out the radiator about 3ft even if you rev it from idle to 1500. That was running at a little above half way on the gauge.

Decided to go from hose clamps to a actual mount today.

ADF.

I've bought stuff and flipped it before for either less, equal, or more money. In Oregon you are required to title a vehicle with in 30 days of buying it if it has a oregon title. After that on the 31st day you are fined i $25 after that on the 60 day it's $50. I titled my hatch over a year after i bought it without paying a late title fee since the date was never filled out and they didn't tell me to fill it out at dmv or even ask me when i bought it. If a car is out of state in oregon there is no law saying when you have to change the title. I had my free 83 turbo wagon for over a year also before i got it running and drive able so i could title it then sell it since i decided i wanted bigger and better projects. It had a washington title so you have to bring the car to dmv to get the vins checked before a oregon tittle is issued. I don't see the point in going to dmv twice so i brought the car through deq then when to dmv to get the title changed, pay for registrations, and tags. If you don't own the car long enough to get the tittle from dmv i wouldn't even bother with it since it takes up to a month to get it in the mail. The 1975 rule for deq is stupid since cars are 40 years old now still going through as collector cars that barely get driven. You can get collector plates but all you can really do with those plates are drive in parades and go to cars shows. In washington emission testing only goes back 20 years.

When starting up the hatch after getting out of school yesterday it would start then die. If i held into the gas for a couple seconds it would stay running but idle ruff. If you tapped the peddle the rpms would go up then drop to almost dying then back up to idle but really ruff. Checked the codes when i got home. Had a 24 which was new and a 33 which had been there since i didn't hook up the speed sensor wire. Code 24 is for the iac (idle air controller). Which can tell the ecm to not fire 1 or 2 injectors so the rpm's stay low. I read that you could clean it with seafoam by pouring a little down the iac hose. Which was a really bad idea since it just made the engine backfire. I also read that the ecm coolant temp sensor could cause this so i replaced that with a new one. Changed nothing. Had a spare intake so i took the iac off that one since i knew it was good. Put it on after cleaning it with starting fluid. Changed nothing. Then i decided to change ecm's (The harness and ecm that i put in it was out of a 90 legacy with a blink code ecm) with one out of a 91 legacy. The 91 doesn't have the blink light but i tried it anyway and it runs perfect again with no problems. I need to find another 90 ecm to check codes now. When you take both ecm's apart the way they are built is completely different with more stuff in the 90 ecm. Kind of pisses me off since you can't take them apart and swap shells since all the screw holes are different.

I've done both. Difference is most ea81's have a single pulley while all ea81t's had a dual pulley. They also had a difference between the shaft sizes so you couldn't just put on a dual pulley onto a single pulley pump. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=water+pump&year=1983&make=Subaru&model=GL&vi=1268322

Have you replaced the actual horn/horns or checked the connections. I've had horns go bad before and replaced them before i tore apart the column.

Looks like a ea82 y-pipe not sure about the gas tank but i can say it's from a 2wd.

I agree it's far easier to just pull the engine. The transmissions are a pain to get back in through the bottom. Even with a old completely mechanical transmission jack it's a fight to get everything to line up. I can have ea81's in and out in 3 hours with a new clutch if everything goes right using a fork lift for a cherry picker.

When i brought it through DEQ it passed with really low emissions the 1st time through. You need a turbo off a ea82t it already has one on it now. Cat is part of the down pipe. It used to have a digital dash but it shorted out and caught on fire. Sat from 2004 to 2013 because of it and a bad fuel pump. I got it running the 2nd day i had it just by putting in a fuel pump.