turbosubarubrat

That's my old wagon. You tried to call me once but my phone was on silent and i wasn't able to get a hold of you afterwards. I can text if that works better. Also have a picture album for it on facebook. It looks like the jack stands are on the pinch welds which tend to bend easy i would move them in farther so they are on the unibody frame rails. You going to drop in a 5 speed d/r?

It either had locking tabs added then or has a set of rockers off of a hydraulic setup. Since the solids didn't come factory with locking tabs.

I would of put a bolt in it's place with some jb weld since the reservoirs are made out of plastic and it holds up great. My sisters jeep has a plastic radiator too and the overflow port broke off. I drilled it out a little put plastic 90 degree in and jb welded it in place. Shes driven it like that for 9 months even on a 5 hour trip each way. My ea81 radiator drain plug hole is rethreaded for a bolt i cut down to work. I used some sealant and a flat washer; hasn't leaked in the 2 months i've been driving it.

Heads should be checked for flatness if out of spec get them surfaced. Since it only bent one push rod i would think it was a stuck/sticky hydraulic lifter. The car i got had solid lifters and had 3 bent push rods.... so the guy floated the valves on that one. I think your springs should be fine. Rings are your call it probably doesn't need them since they have already been replaced. Stock ea81's have been known to go over 350k without rebuilds.

Exoskeleton would do more good for a wheeler if your going to go through the trouble of making a roll cage. You can put rock sliders on then for better protection and tie everything together.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-thumbwheel-ratchet-set-94011.html

I bought this s.k set for this reason http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U025VM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00. The spark plugs are at a weird angle on my hatch being lifted 6 inches with a ej22. On one side i had to use the 5/8" swivel plus a flex joint and 2 extensions just to get to it without having to take a bunch of stuff apart.

I was looking at them and i can get one for $50 shipped in the USA or get a rebuild kit for $20 off ebay. Or i can get it at the auto parts store for $45 with a $9 core charge and a lifetime warranty (probably less with the farms discount).

Roll bars go from $50-250 depending on how bad the person wants it. Sounds like some good parts. Who else locally is going to by the brat since all the ones out where your at are gone. See if they will take $350 and have some nice spare parts. Tail lights are worth $50 apiece. Canopy should be worth $100.

Redlining the rpms of the engine. The wagon didn't have a tac gauge so i'm sure he took each gear as fast as it could go from Eugene to Portland. where the push rod broke in half. It was backfiring through the carb because the #4 exhaust couldn't open.

I have a couple of the ones made in italy and they work great along with some of the older spains. I have a ea81 with 150k on it where someone floated the valves on it and bent 2 push rods and broke one. I think they revved the piss out of it. I thought the broken one was the only problem so i put a unbent one in and drove it around on the farm. Had lots of power and ran great. Just had a blown head gasket and those other two bent push rods otherwise no problems.

You need to drive the rig around to make the suspension settle out. Every time i jack up my hatch then let it down the camber is way in until you drive it around. You can bounce the suspension in the front and turn the steering wheel without driving it to settle it out some.

i posted a link directly to his own site above. His board name is sube101 but he hasn't been on in awhile. Facebook https://www.facebook.com/infernofab?fref=ts.

Did you drain it yet to find bits and pieces of gears yet? I have one of the 3.7's d/rs that i would sell for $200 has 158k on it. I got the car after it had been run on the beach with holes drilled in the air cleaner; the ea82t had 30 pounds of compression in each cylinder...

My old lock smith would do it for like $30-50

I know Bill Omlin built the one in Earls brat. You could probably contact pooparu about what parts were used. If you haven't already swapped to the non turbo stubs i would do that also while your in there.

Use the intake off the 98 on the 2.2 block so the electronics are the same so all the plug match up.

If it's not DOT certified it's supposed to be illegal to run them on the road. Not sure if it is or isn't. It says it's rated at R which is 106mph.

Great engine/trans combo to put into a brat. Any update on the rear seat belt covers? They look oem.

That is a factory brush guard/add on at dealership. Put one on my hatch i need to cut out the winch plate and weld a bigger one in. Pic of one on the 82 brat i had Then there is the factory winch bumper. Only pic i could find without looking for hours. I have one for my 85 brat. It looks way better than that pic shows. Mine will be white and the brat will be bright red.

He could make it too. You would just need to ask him about the cost

http://www.infernofab.com/

Finally found a cheaper roof rack to work with and modded it.

When i lifted my hatch the brake lines where disconnected for about a month. When i finally got around to filling the reservoir i started bleeding the right rear first with my hand pump then the left rear. Just to get the brake fluid to start coming out since it takes longer to get back there. Then the left front and right front to get fluid out. Then i started bleeding bubbles out from right rear to left front to left rear to right front. Worked fine for me and it stops great with the ea82t rear disks and ea82 fronts.

I run conventional 10w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. That is what my dad has done with his stuff for the past 20 years and never had a problem. Napa had a sale going for $2 a quart for the premium napa brand so i bought the limit 2 cases.